Loved what you said about creativity and couldn’t agree more. The times I’ve forced myself to shoot every day are the times I’ve felt I’ve grown the most in photography.
So glad that part resonated with you. It was really the main point of the video but most people have gotten caught up in the technicalities that the blacks weren't black enough for them. But we're really trying to encourage people to get out and shoot, play and test. Keep on shooting and thanks for writing in.
I really love black and white,awesome assignment.Question,in the video you had a sekonic light meter with the dome retracted while metering, is there a specific reason why you meter that way. Thanks
Ha. partially because it's broken and stuck like that but for color film, I typically lean towards over exposing the film. With the dome retracted, it gives the reading another 1/3 stop or so. A lot of people do that intentionally to make sure their shots lean over exposed vs under by a bit. Hope that helps.
Retract the dome to take a reflected light reading of the scene from camera position, or close the white dome to take an incident light reading from subject position.
Interesting video! thank you! But I still don't understand how you can compare push/pull development if the lab develops and scans your film for you and you may just not know what the scanner settings were during the scan. Probably I just can't entrust the development and scanning of my own films to anyone other than myself 😁
It takes a lot of communication with a lab for sure. And not everyone is knowledgeable in how to develop themselves but if you can, keep doing what works for you. Just trying to show people that you can get different results doing different things. Encouraging people who are newer to film to experiment and try different processes. Hoping videos like this, although not perfect or always great, gives that little push to get out there and test or try.
Very good video for beginners in B&W photography. Good examples. What irritates me in many American videos like this is that sophisticated and sometimes heavy equipment is loosely held and can drop at any time. Show some respect, especially when it is no longer produced.!
100% true. And if we weren't trying to rush a video out, we probably should have had these images re-scanned. But we rushed and it is what it is. We're just trying to show people that you can get different results doing different things. Encouraging people who are newer to film to experiment and try different processes. Hoping videos like this, although not perfect or always great, gives that little push to get out there and test or try.
It may sound dumb but I’m always a little weirded out using my spot meter in public. They’re very gun-like in shape, especially black ones like yours. Same with a lot of Super 8 cameras.
they could look like that but you're not holding it with your arms stretched out in front of you like you would a pistol. Up at your eye, it would be a very funny little gun. I vote you do it and don't worry what people think.
How is the development time adjusted to take into account pushing film by 1 stop or more? Enjoy your channel and it has gotten me back to shooting film.
What would happen if you shoot at 800 and 1600, but don't tell your lab and let them develop it as if it was shot at box speed? Still don't understand when it's necessary to tell your lab that you shot at 200 or 800 iso when box speed is 400.
Hope we can help a bit here. So if you are shooting a 400 speed film, and rate it at 800, you are under exposing your film by 1 stop. Your meter is telling you how to expose the film at 800, while your film is 400. At 1600, you are under exposing your film by 2 stops. So if you don't push the film, your photos will be 1-2 stops under exposed. That could be an intentional choice. Pushing film is a process where the film stays in the developer longer which adds more contrast and in turn more grain. It helps compensate for the underexposure by taking the muddy shadows and making them more black and the whites more white. If you rate your film at 200, and it is a 400 or 800 speed film, you are intentionally over exposing your film. With that, you can ask the lab to pull it for a particular look you may want, or you don't have to tell them anything and they will process the film normally. Color negative film typically does better over exposed and has a lot of latitude in that direction. If anyone else is reading this and wants to chime in, we would love your input. Hope that helps a bit.
@@FilmSupplyClub Really Clear! Basically the pushing and pulling by the lab is to compensate and make the film look 'normal', but if you want your film to look either over- or underexposed, you don't tell the lab anything so that they develop it normally and you get an over- or underexposed result?
I agree with a few commenters here about this method of comparison when the developing process depends on the lab. All three rolls were taken during different daylight and different light condition as I can see by the video so it's impossible to compare or to see the real differences between all samples - all they look like the same roll. And finally, I get more and more the idea that not everything that captured on film automatically becomes beautiful, interesting, or aesthetic. Of course, some visitors wrongly do think that they learned something new from this video. unsubscribing. sorry.
After shooting the video - which we mentioned mid-roll - we knew it wouldn't be a very good 1-1 comparison. Shooting throughout the day, as the light changed drastically. We have another shot doing a better direct comparison of the same scene, same light, etc.
normally, I'd shoot tri-x at 320 an then process it normally. At 320, to pull it, you're not over exposing it by a full stop like you would at 200. I assume you're liking the results though? Sounds like it could be cool.
If we weren't trying to rush a video out, we probably should have had these images re-scanned. Most labs assume people want the shadow detail vs the blacks going black, but we rushed and it is what it is. We're just trying to show people that you can get different results doing different things. Encouraging people who are newer to film to experiment and try different processes. Hoping videos like this, although not perfect or always great, gives that little push to get out there and test or try.
Full sun and high ASA. White many of the images are overexposed , the tailoring shop at 7:00 minutes is a wipeout. I do not see the appeal. With a 55mm f4 on the 67, yellow filter, the exposure outside on this cool sunny day is f5.6 ½ at 1/250th with ASA 100, processed normal. Sharp detailed contrasty negatives with excellent tonality and separation. I prefer to introduce grain, contrast and blown highlights in the printing phase if called for (or when generating the scan) rather than the film which you're then stuck with. To each his own.
Sorry to disappoint. Trying hard over here to create content that can be educational, encouraging and entertaining and it's a tricky balance. After shooting the video - which we mentioned mid-roll - we knew it wouldn't be a very good 1-1 comparison. Shooting throughout the day, as the light changed drastically. We have another shot doing a better direct comparison of the same scene, same light, etc.
Box speed is iso 400 at 400 of a sec at f16. If you are metering for the shadows and not for zone 5 it's not box speed! Most pros shoot at half box speed and meter for the shadows! Which means all shots will be in the 30th 60h 125th area! Thats classed as over exposure! The blacks and ahadows are appalling at true box speed unless you ar in the studio with controlled lighting! It's good to see someone shooting film though :) www.johnnypatience.com/the-zone-system-is-dead/
Loved what you said about creativity and couldn’t agree more. The times I’ve forced myself to shoot every day are the times I’ve felt I’ve grown the most in photography.
So glad that part resonated with you. It was really the main point of the video but most people have gotten caught up in the technicalities that the blacks weren't black enough for them. But we're really trying to encourage people to get out and shoot, play and test. Keep on shooting and thanks for writing in.
This was great thank you, I just shot my first rolls of black and white. Tri X 400 and Tmaxx 100. Can't wait
So rad to hear Bronson. Hope you love how they came out! Let us know.
Good job! It takes a lot of effort putting together a video like this. Keep doing you brother.
Thanks tons Virgil. Definitely working at it. Hope you're doing well.
Didn’t know Ryan Reynolds was also a photographer. That’s awesome
Love photographing the PCH
I really love black and white,awesome assignment.Question,in the video you had a sekonic light meter with the dome retracted while metering, is there a specific reason why you meter that way. Thanks
Ha. partially because it's broken and stuck like that but for color film, I typically lean towards over exposing the film. With the dome retracted, it gives the reading another 1/3 stop or so. A lot of people do that intentionally to make sure their shots lean over exposed vs under by a bit. Hope that helps.
Retract the dome to take a reflected light reading of the scene from camera position, or close the white dome to take an incident light reading from subject position.
Interesting video! thank you!
But I still don't understand how you can compare push/pull development if the lab develops and scans your film for you and you may just not know what the scanner settings were during the scan.
Probably I just can't entrust the development and scanning of my own films to anyone other than myself 😁
It takes a lot of communication with a lab for sure. And not everyone is knowledgeable in how to develop themselves but if you can, keep doing what works for you. Just trying to show people that you can get different results doing different things. Encouraging people who are newer to film to experiment and try different processes. Hoping videos like this, although not perfect or always great, gives that little push to get out there and test or try.
Very good video for beginners in B&W photography. Good examples. What irritates me in many American videos like this is that sophisticated and sometimes heavy equipment is loosely held and can drop at any time. Show some respect, especially when it is no longer produced.!
Correct. Use a neck or hand strap no matter what especially if creating on YT as you can create habits for viewers that can easily lead to disaster.
The shots could have come out in a number of different ways, depending on developer used, developing time and temperature.
100% true. And if we weren't trying to rush a video out, we probably should have had these images re-scanned. But we rushed and it is what it is. We're just trying to show people that you can get different results doing different things. Encouraging people who are newer to film to experiment and try different processes. Hoping videos like this, although not perfect or always great, gives that little push to get out there and test or try.
It may sound dumb but I’m always a little weirded out using my spot meter in public. They’re very gun-like in shape, especially black ones like yours. Same with a lot of Super 8 cameras.
#americanproblems lol
they could look like that but you're not holding it with your arms stretched out in front of you like you would a pistol. Up at your eye, it would be a very funny little gun. I vote you do it and don't worry what people think.
Another great video! Lovely images
Thanks so much Daniel. Means a lot and appreciate the encouragement.
This is so good
How is the development time adjusted to take into account pushing film by 1 stop or more? Enjoy your channel and it has gotten me back to shooting film.
re-watch the video at about 1:00 for the answer
Oh wow, awesome images!
Thanks so much! Glad you like them.
Hope next year can finally have a medium format camera.
There are some fairly inexpensive 645 kits out there. I hope you get one soon! Medium format is magic.
@@FilmSupplyClub thanks for you’re advice I’ll search for it.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Do you know what developer was used?
No, sorry. The lab used was Richard Photo Lab in Los Angeles CA.
awesome video! Keep them up!!!
Thanks so much and appreciate the encouragement.
I didn't knew Ryan Reynolds was into photography!
❤️ Tri-X
Same here!
What would happen if you shoot at 800 and 1600, but don't tell your lab and let them develop it as if it was shot at box speed? Still don't understand when it's necessary to tell your lab that you shot at 200 or 800 iso when box speed is 400.
Hope we can help a bit here. So if you are shooting a 400 speed film, and rate it at 800, you are under exposing your film by 1 stop. Your meter is telling you how to expose the film at 800, while your film is 400. At 1600, you are under exposing your film by 2 stops. So if you don't push the film, your photos will be 1-2 stops under exposed. That could be an intentional choice.
Pushing film is a process where the film stays in the developer longer which adds more contrast and in turn more grain. It helps compensate for the underexposure by taking the muddy shadows and making them more black and the whites more white.
If you rate your film at 200, and it is a 400 or 800 speed film, you are intentionally over exposing your film. With that, you can ask the lab to pull it for a particular look you may want, or you don't have to tell them anything and they will process the film normally. Color negative film typically does better over exposed and has a lot of latitude in that direction.
If anyone else is reading this and wants to chime in, we would love your input.
Hope that helps a bit.
@@FilmSupplyClub Really Clear! Basically the pushing and pulling by the lab is to compensate and make the film look 'normal', but if you want your film to look either over- or underexposed, you don't tell the lab anything so that they develop it normally and you get an over- or underexposed result?
I agree with a few commenters here about this method of comparison when the developing process depends on the lab. All three rolls were taken during different daylight and different light condition as I can see by the video so it's impossible to compare or to see the real differences between all samples - all they look like the same roll. And finally, I get more and more the idea that not everything that captured on film automatically becomes beautiful, interesting, or aesthetic. Of course, some visitors wrongly do think that they learned something new from this video. unsubscribing. sorry.
After shooting the video - which we mentioned mid-roll - we knew it wouldn't be a very good 1-1 comparison. Shooting throughout the day, as the light changed drastically. We have another shot doing a better direct comparison of the same scene, same light, etc.
Try a 2 stop push developed in D76 for 13min 30 sec! :)
ohhh. that sounds good. What are your results like? Or what are you seeing with that process?
Have you tried pulling it? I shoot all my tri-x at 320
normally, I'd shoot tri-x at 320 an then process it normally. At 320, to pull it, you're not over exposing it by a full stop like you would at 200. I assume you're liking the results though? Sounds like it could be cool.
Why are the blacks lifted so much? Doesn't really give a good representation of the film when the scans don't seem to have any true blacks anywhere
All about sHaDoW dEtAiL these days
If we weren't trying to rush a video out, we probably should have had these images re-scanned. Most labs assume people want the shadow detail vs the blacks going black, but we rushed and it is what it is. We're just trying to show people that you can get different results doing different things. Encouraging people who are newer to film to experiment and try different processes. Hoping videos like this, although not perfect or always great, gives that little push to get out there and test or try.
Full sun and high ASA. White many of the images are overexposed , the tailoring shop at 7:00 minutes is a wipeout. I do not see the appeal.
With a 55mm f4 on the 67, yellow filter, the exposure outside on this cool sunny day is f5.6 ½ at 1/250th with ASA 100, processed normal. Sharp detailed contrasty negatives with excellent tonality and separation. I prefer to introduce grain, contrast and blown highlights in the printing phase if called for (or when generating the scan) rather than the film which you're then stuck with.
To each his own.
That was a bit disappointing, especially concerning your scan+edit.
Sorry to disappoint. Trying hard over here to create content that can be educational, encouraging and entertaining and it's a tricky balance. After shooting the video - which we mentioned mid-roll - we knew it wouldn't be a very good 1-1 comparison. Shooting throughout the day, as the light changed drastically. We have another shot doing a better direct comparison of the same scene, same light, etc.
Box speed is iso 400 at 400 of a sec at f16.
If you are metering for the shadows and not for zone 5 it's not box speed!
Most pros shoot at half box speed and meter for the shadows! Which means all shots will be in the 30th 60h 125th area! Thats classed as over exposure! The blacks and ahadows are appalling at true box speed unless you ar in the studio with controlled lighting!
It's good to see someone shooting film though :)
www.johnnypatience.com/the-zone-system-is-dead/
Or how take a beautiful full tone film and smash the dynamic range.
Why does every photography video have that hideous electronic Muzak as a soundtrack?
Annoying music..!!