Y'all need to hire an up-and-coming videographer from one of the local schools to film, edit and post content for the channel. I know it has to eat into your time to do all the post filming production to get these uploaded. What does everyone else think? Maybe even a buck or two from everyone to increase content output.
here in missouri it is required to have an expansion fitting on the pvc pipe coming out of the ground into the meter can, is that not required in texas?
I'm sure it costs a few bucks to get on a call with him, but I've got a little work coming up while the wife is out of town, and if I run into a head-scratcher, I'd bet good money that he's cheaper than an electrician call-out when all a person needs is some good advice!
Paul, you could easily be a presenter on any building television show. Watching these videos reminds me of "this old house" or other actual TV programs on this subject. The editing and filming is very professional too. You guys are doing such a great job from top to bottom. The building, the filming and the presentation. 💯 fellas! 👍💪 Thanks for brining us along for the ride. 🫡
@@sterlingmullett6942 the pipe will always settle with time. Without the expansion coupling the forces will break fittings, bend the metal boxes or split the pipe from the fitting leaving the wire exposed to weather and damage.
@@ScrewThisGlueThat I see. Thank you. Yeah, they should probably cut that three inch pipe and affix an expansion coupling. Hopefully they will see your comment.
Paul, I'm not sure what the code requirements are there, but either way you may want to consider installing an expansion joint in the conduit vertical riser below the meter socket. It will protect conduit/meter socket damage from the settling of the earth in the trench. You guys are doing a great job. I can't wait to see the finished project!
In SE MO we need them on our underground electrical services too, isn’t part of the NEC that I have ever read, but per the utility gold book out here they require it. Also sch 80 is just for the connection that comes out of the ground since it is subject to physical damage. Awesome video guys!!!
Whether it’s code required or not as a home inspector and apprentice electrician I always highly recommend an expansion coupling below the meter. It’s almost impossible to install afterwards and you’ll be in a world of hurt if that conduit ever pulls out of the connector and exposes the utility side service entrance conductors. I’d ask Joel his opinion though, he will know better than me! Awesome work as always guys!
This is some of the best content on UA-cam. Period. I'm a musician on the west coast and I get such a kick out of the quality you guys are pumping out. I'm reminded of an old saying... "Do you see a man who excels in his work? He will stand before kings; He will not stand before unknown men." You guys excel by every means. It's an absolute joy to watch!!
Taking those stakes out of the ground--I saw the Perkins Builder Brothers use a long 2x4. They screwed the 2x4 to the stake and used the length of the 2x4 to raise the stake by lifting up on the 2x4. Fast.
Jordan... Have you considered much less wired for 10 Gigabit Ethernet (at least to the NAS and 2.5 Gigabit to your workstations) within your garage build since you'll have Fibre Optics incoming... Where do you plan on having your NAS located? Have you considered rack mount NAS and ethernet switch? Which NAS are you planning on getting? Personally, I favor QNAP for the job...
A farm jack works great to pull out fence posts when you do not have an excavator or are in tight quarters. They are about $50. Also, if you wrap your chain under itself (half hitch) when you wrap it around the 2x4, it will not slip when you are pulling.
Good work. One question from a career electrician. No slip joint on the conduit riser between the ground and the meter base? They are required in a lot of areas. Ground movement can bust the conduit when rigidly attached to the wall and meter base. Keep up the good work.
in the future, make sure you run a pull rope through a conduit made for internet before you glue it together, will make running lines much easier. When it comes time to run a network wire, you pull the network line through the conduit with the pull rope along with a new pull rope. Electric lines of that size are stiff and can be pushed through, fiber line not so much. For now i might suggest some fishing line attached to a small ball and some compressed air, push that through then with the fishing line pull a pull rope through it. Mind you i have 200ft fiber line in the ground connecting my startlink mounted on a 65ft tower to my house so I've used the pull rope before.
That was totally stressing me out, after seeing them fight with the big cables in the garage I can only imagine how much fun it will be to run the supply cable through that 90....
I would have left the hole open and put the pipes unglued in the hole and left them there until the electric company came to run the cable, while they are running the pipe through the pipe pieces id be right behind them gluing them up. then once done fill the hole.@@funkygawy
@@fixitfixitfixit My electric company wants everything done prior to inspection. From metal riser, to primer and glued PVC, to schedule 80 36"/24" sweeps, panel to building, mule tape installed... Everything before they will come out.
I've never worked with Joel directly but I've worked with some people at his company on several commercial projects. I highly recommend them. Good people.
First video I’ve seen on the channel. (Studying up for a 400A setup at our ranch) Fantastic info, but what’s even better is the workmanship throughout this home. 🤙 Awesome work!
You also know it's great video when it feels like it's been forever since the LAST Stud Pack video! Awesome work guys , look forward to every update!! 👍❤️👍
For your hand digging between the garage and white fence, try a tiller attachment or separate tool to till up the dirt down to a layer you want and then it’s easy to remove the dirt. Remember, you want some top soil for grass or sod thickness accounted for.
Love ❣ this video , always love ❣ SP. videos , - from a U.S. perspective , but this one SPECIAL as in UK just west of London ~ I am a Chartered Engineer ~ IT. Electrical , brilliant as always thank you ' nice ! ' 🔌👏👏👏
Since I finished binge watching all of Stud Pack's videos and I anxiously await other videos from you guys, I have been binge watching "Brad the Builder" on UA-cam and Paul is a lot like Brad! You guys are the best two channels out there. Fantastic work and enthusiasm.
18:35 When hand digging those stakes, use a pressure washer wand to soften the dirt on one side. Or drive a couple of big screws thru the stake, and lift it out with a portable "jack."
Great video, good information! In case people try to copy and repeat... For tracer ribbon you actually want to install that up the vertical riser pipe and wrap around a foot or two of it at ground level or maybe so that you could just see some of it otherwise nobody knows it's there so there will be no way to detect it. Detectable marking tape (tracer wire / ribbon) is used for locators not metal detectors. Therefore you have to energize it. Also another pro tip: swing the house of the mini x when using the blade up against the picket fence so your boom, stick and bucket can be tucked away neatly. 😊 Good work guys Hope this info helps you for further videos.
@@walnutcontractors5661 You can it's just way more expensive and you're putting two wires in the ground. I use 18 gauge or 20 gauge single copper wire but that's a little expensive too so I like underground detectable tracer tape. Plus the tape has words on it so if you're installing gas it's pretty important to let people know there's gas underground. Usually you would bury 1 to 2 ft and then lay down the detectable / tracer tape with the words gas on it. Then continue burying the rest of the way flush with the ground. This way when you start digging if you hit the tape you know within a footer to the gas pipe is below the tape so you never hit the gas. 💪
Have you thought about putting a small retention pond in the back corner of the yard? Over flow from big rains could go out to the street. There are ways to build it to keep mosquitos to a minimum.
Old ranchers trick when pulling those stakes, use a chain and a short section of post or other, hook the chain to the bumper of your vehicle and over the top of the post set at an angle, it till cantilever the stake out.
At the end near the road, I would have buried a 2.5 box over the pre-dug line for the utility connection. So you only have to dig up 6 inches, remove the box, then presto. As long as you don't have to drive over that area until the utilities are hooked up.
Just a quick question. Are you willing to share how much you are spending on this build? Materials, Rentals, tools etc? Maybe a running total at the end of the video? I understand if you don't want to just thought it would be informative. Great videos, great energy, great relationships between the 3 of you.
Great update on the garage. Not sure if it has been said, but I would have recommended a pull string in stalled on those 60 ft runs, 2-3ft deep is a bit deep for a pull box, but pull string would be a idea.
Watching you folks grow your channel like this has been a great adventure. I subbed when you had only 40K subs and look at you now! Well on your way to 1M subs. Congrats to all of you for the awesome videos, great team work, amazing results and wonderful folks.
Very interesting. The last time I built here in Georgia, the power company ran the line from the street to the meter. I am rather surprised that you guys did not have to have that conduit inspected before covering it. Also, here I have never been allowed to put more than one type of service in the same trench. One time I was using a 36 inch bucket and I was going to put the various utilities in the groove made by the teeth. I thought it was a cool idea as that would ensure that they were all evenly spaced apart. That prick of an inspector would not even let me backfill and bury within the area where the ditch was. He insisted everything had to have its own ditch. They would have been exactly one foot apart all the way (150 ft. ). Would have made locating later so easy.
First, the connectors that were used for the backside of those enclosures are not correct. What was used are SEU rated, in which what should have been used was SER ( Round Throat ) connectors for the Service Entrance Round cable. You cannot use flat clamps on round cable. Unfortunately, that is a code violation. Second, I highly recommend a expansion coupling under that meter base, whether or not it's code. Third, at least 3-4 1/4" weep holes ( * in line) should have been drilled for the belly of the 3" ( Service Lateral ) at the lowest point in the event of water infiltration. Thumbs up to Joel for using the wire brush to spread the De-Ox. Most DE-Ox manufacturers suggest using wire brushes and many people don't. They just their finger which is not the proper way to apply it. Kudos to Paul for dressing the backing board with a chamfer. Nice touch!!!
I’m not sure what was more epic, watching the digging of the trench or listening to the epic time lapse music. Great video guys. Hope all is well in Tx. It’s getting cold up here in Mi!
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB IS THE TOP OF THE FINISHED CONCRETE/ FLOOR IS TO HAVE IT 18 INCHES ABOVE THE CROWN OR THE HIGHEST PART OF THE STREET BECAUSE OF FLOODING IF THE DRAINAGE GETS BLOCKED OR BACKED UP
Hey guys glad to see some more progress! On the line into the meter you need to install a slip collar fitting so should it settle (They all do!) It does not pull out of the meter Box. Also I believe so jurisdiction require 400 amp service conduit have a small hole on bottom of sweep 90, at lowest point to facilitate drying of condensation, rain or penetrating ground water. At least my last 4 residential and 2 commercial did. Great call on other conduit, its also good to put one in for cable cause they do not like cohabitation of there service lines.
You should have ran pull wire through your conduit. Awesome job though. I like how you showed the elevations, I have been a critic on that in the past.
Recently found your channel and I can’t stop watching! Paul did I hear you say you were 57? I’m 55 and there’s no way I could keep up with you brother! Your a beast! Looking forward to your future videos!
When you terminate the conduit on your new pole, make sure the open end of the conduit is LOWER than then termination at the house, AND make sure there's some waterproofing on it, so that it doesn't get a lot of water in it. And since the pole side will be lower, when that conduit does fill with water, it'll drain on the pole side, not into your meter box. Ask me how I know.
I thought I was doing something going from 100 to 200amp...🤯 That idea about having the sheet of PVC or something behind meter is genius. If I ever get around to changing the siding, I am definitely doing that.
I did my 27 ft of trenching by hand - only had to be 20" down (so the PVC was 18" below grade). That was for 100 amp subpanel in my garage and 200 amp upgrade in my basement. Old main panel became that subpanel. This is cool seeing a killer garage build. The house build will be even better too! I'm glad they are getting solar too. It just makes too much sense with sunny roofs. I have 2 arrays and I'm up in Michigan.
@baxtronx5972 of course is legal, 200amp 240V service is very common. I want 100 amps in my garage to charge EVs. I have 1 50 amp 240V circuit in there. I also have my 5.4kW solar array into the subpanel in the garage.
We use the expanded PVC board instead of plywood for marine seating. and that price seems insane. We pay something like $125 for a sheet of 1/2 and like $170 for 3/4
Why dig the stakes when a Hi-lift jack, a couple of lag bolts and a chunk of chain would be way faster and less work? Great project, can't wait to see what's next!
Enjoyed the new video drop gang! And especially what seems to be the AC/DC background tunes? :) Such a pleasure watching all this as it comes together and seeing the various collaborations!!
Everything is looking wonderful. Your videos are more polished now. Jordan is more confident and comfortable which comes from experience. The explanations and always striving to look ahead and do it right or better is a joy to watch. You all make a good team. Get Rad in there as much as possible, he’s a beast and funny. Keep the videos coming Studpack
5:00 schedule of pipe hidden, yeah looks great but now need mirror available for the inspector to see to verify. So maybe place label vertically down so the inspector can still see, but has the appearance you think is important.
Props for thinking ahead with the 1 inch conduit most utilities are requiring it now. Are you planning on also running a 1 inch flex conduit from the outside of the house to your demarcation point for all of your ethernet cables? Hopefully y’all planned for a Network closet that would be a great place to run it too. Especially if you’re going to add cameras and hardwired Ethernet to devices.
I don't disagree, but I wonder if it's really needed these days? Being hardwired is great and reduces interference, but considering wifi speeds, except for the most data intensive systems (home security cameras, video backups, home nas, etc) most computers, phones, gaming consoles, should work fine with a decent wifi setup. Although having a network closet couldn't hurt, just thinking the expense may not be worth it. Thoughts?
@@sterlingmullett6942PoE availability is a lot better for fixed network appliances like door bells, cams, even lighting than wifi and having to recharge batteries. My recommendation would be to pull a conduit all the way around to under that stair well where the switch board is going to be and then land your WAN connection there into a network rack. Then all the structured wiring can land there too and make it nice and neat. Just keep any ELV wiring at least 50mm away from LV wiring and it’ll be sweet.
@@sterlingmullett6942 While you can connect most devices with wifi, interference is a thing that you need to plan ahead for. Also, you probably want your wifi hotspots to be hardwired, and maybe a few more devices will require it too. It's a relatively small expense and saves a ton of headaches in the long run. Also, you don't need a full on network closet, there can be minimal equipment in there.
Hey Studpack team! Just wanted to drop some encouragement your way. This one is for Jordan. I just wanted to say how much fun it is to see your growth as a videographer and editor. It is pretty great to watch. (Been watching and learing with you guys since well before the Dream House Build.) I particularly appreciate that you put the camera in spots to show things from angles we just would not see, even if we were on site with you. (Love the trench shot while back filling on this video.) These shots add so much interest for the viewer and I have no doubt these types of creative shots are a significant part of what draws people back over and over again. Just like you are doing with the build, keep working and learning more about what works best for shots and editing technique. And don't sweat it if something doesn't work out like you hoped. You can always edit the edits! Keep on rocking it!
I’ve got multiple new construction projects going on in my neighborhood. Rather than be annoyed by the buzz saws and nail guns, I just remind myself that is the sound of progress and the StudPack is hard at work making new videos for us!
I usually watch videos at 1.5 speed setting. With the exception of just a couple of channels, and this channel is at the top of that list! Normal speed every time so I can enjoy every one of your videos. 👍👍👍
I /love/ the idea of giving the house to local fire fighters to do a couple days of training with. Give them a reach chance to practice venting, cutting, breaching. Could be a fun video.
Electrician in Iowa here guys, content is great keep it up! I'm thinking your inspector or AHJ might have you add a slip joint coupling in on your service riser so just be expecting that, and no, they are not cheap for a 3" 😂
you should expand your range of material use: indoor connector for an outdoor panel... should use rigid aluminum nipples for outdoor application. If things are awkward and doesn't seem right, its usually because it's not meant for the job that you're dealing with.
In my area all water must stay on property and no grades may be set that drain runoff onto either city or neighbor's land. You are fortunate to have building codes that allow grades for runoff from your property. Nice work so far you could have bought a single sheet 1/2" PVC and glued them together saving you some money. Ray
when you bury the electrical conduit(s), (you should use 2), don’t forget to add (2) for low voltage utilities, such as Fiber or copper for internet, and possibly coax if your area has cable TV ✅ note: never mind, I see you added a fiber conduit, think “bigger is better”, 1” is a tough pull, especially with elbows, sweeps.. would go 1.5” or even 2” low voltage and dual 4” for high voltage, even if you only need 1 conduit, the 2nd 4” is if you have a cable fire in the future, you akready have a spare conduit in place
I was a power company Distribution Engineer for 27 years. I approve your design. 🙂 Your neighbor will appreciate locating the generator in the back yard. 😅
Hey guys, normally when installing conduit for fiber cable the minimal duct size it 2 inches but 4 inches is normally the safest. Also the conduit must conform to ICEA S-104-696 standards and have a sweeping bend. Normally the Interconnct/TELE would install a 12pair drop to a home. Most clients are told to install a 90-100mm conduit with minimum sweeping bends. Hope this helps.
Let me say I do love this channel and have been subscribed for a few years. It is one of my favorites because of the building process from a unique point of view, very skilled but not quite professional. We have a prescriptive code of 2% grade slope = 2ft per 100 ln ft. or 0.24" . Engineer to trade we use head math =1/4" per ln foot. Always give an elevation with a distance, otherwise, it is garbage data with no meaning. Do not use the top of the slab to final grade because you have to subtract the slab above grade. in your case, it is a sloped slab. The grade is dirt elevation, and the concrete slab is min 4" above dirt elevation. The calculations are not measured from the low spot in the back of the yard to the low spot in the front as shown in the video. Measure from the highest spot in the rear to the low spot in the front, then design to mitigate the flow. Valleys can be 1/8" per foot slope. Think of it as the landscape feeding a river.
Excellent. Great to see 2 you tube channels that I like working together. You both make it look so easy. Planning and prep make for sweeter results--for you and for the next guy.
Hi Guys, Great work on the electrical and water runoff. I have one recommendation. When laying conduit and pipe, it's best to install a suitable draw wire or rope before completing the glue up. Saves time later and makes it easier when pulling in the final cable. Great work so far.😊
When you forget to do that like I usually do, the easy way to recover is to tie some thin string (I use twine because I have a huge roll of it after switching from small bales to big round bales) to a wad of paper towel. Put a shopvac on one end of the conduit and suck both the towel wad and the string through. Then use the thin string to pull a heavier synthetic (so it won't rot) line. That line will be strong enough to pull both the electric wire and another pull line. You already know you'll have to get into that conduit again, don't you.
Mr. Stud, timely video. I need to replace 125 year old siding and thought of doing this like you guys but didn’t know I could get pvc in that size. Like you will have to bite the bullet on price but I’m 66 and 50+ year service like works.
Wow, making fantastic progress, guys! 👏 great job on the electric stuff. I'm a little surprised you didn't have to get an inspection on the electrical pipe prior to backfill. But maybe you don't have to in your area. Keep rockin studpack
LOL! I came out of the ground with my 90 and dry fit it looked great when I went to glue it it was tight fit I was workin alone my trench was alittle to deep and i slipped and it glued in slightly more on one side so it is crooked I tried to move it but it would not budge my foundation will cover it when I finish blocking it and I was not cuttin it ! But will be glad when it is behind block! It happens!
I've noticed in my area that the gas company runs a single conductor - looks like the white strand from 14/2 - along side the gas line and I assume you can hook a tone generator up to the strand at the gas meter and following and mark it back to the street if you ever have to do any digging. Maybe easier than detecting the metal caution tape.
You guys might want to go ahead and put silt fence up at the drain points. Could head of some complains and city notices if mud gets washed into road which it probably will. And I’d put a expansion joint on the main service for sure. Even if it’s not code. Texas gets colder and colder and movement might become a problem down there like pipes freezing has.
I believe standard fall on a exterior concrete slab is 1/4" per foot, so you are NOT super high with you building. A good heavy rain will tell the story.
When you guys are ready to address the drainage permanently, you might want to reach out to Apple Drains in FL. Top notch work and he's got a really great channel of his own.
We are enjoying seeing all the progress you are making. This build is a lot of hard work, but you make it make sense, look good, and always quality workmanship.
Love the content. Alot of your choices I also used on a recent service upgrade as a DIY working under permit from my AHJ including PVC / VInyl backer board to my service box, and caution tape buried 12 inch above the conduit.... Wile it may not be code in TX, but in WI, we are required to use expansion joints anywhere conduit changes from Horizontal to vertical under grade.... I didn't see you use any, and this is a cheap insurance from future damage from ground movement.
Guys, check every day for another adventure into your build. Talk about an operator. Takes the excavated dirt and places it far enough away to be able to drive the machine between the spoil pile and the ditch. Good Job!
Hope to see some low voltage prewiring for security/cat6/coax/speakers. I would get a few home runs of cat6 from the TV location, places to put access points, and some automation. Also some speakers outside like the deck, living room, and especially that garage where you will be a lot during the house build.
Threaded Male PVC fitting are not water proof. I saw a fitting lock nut on the outside of the box that creates a gap. Gasket or Myers Hub on the fitting can be used for a better seal.
yall aught to get some straw and put it around the perimeter of the house now that you got the foundation cleaned up. It'll help prevent any mud from splashing back up onto the sides of the house.
SP I think you’ll have to seal those beveled edges on that PVC sheet. Cutting it leaves open “cells” that can hold moisture. Over time mildew will grow in them leaving a green or brown stain.
@@chrisosti next time you get some pvc trim, cut it. You’ll see while the outside surface is smooth, the inner part will feel rougher. This is the inner “cell” structure of PVC. Unless you seal that surface, over time water, dust, and dirt can accumulate. So you would need to clean it regularly or it will discolor.
Missed you Guys 😉
We missed you more!
Y'all need to hire an up-and-coming videographer from one of the local schools to film, edit and post content for the channel. I know it has to eat into your time to do all the post filming production to get these uploaded. What does everyone else think? Maybe even a buck or two from everyone to increase content output.
here in missouri it is required to have an expansion fitting on the pvc pipe coming out of the ground into the meter can, is that not required in texas?
WE MISSED YOU!! 😄😄😄
Letsgooo Ive been waiting for this upload
You know it’s a great series when you find yourself checking daily for new updates!
I do the same thing lol
Thank goodness I'm not the only person doing that hahahaha
I know.. At the beginning when Paul said in the last video they did electrical.. I had to go on the channel and confirm I didn't miss one haha.
I was starting to experience withdrawal symptoms!
i am almost caught up and im not looking forward to having to wait for new epidsodes lol
Joel is the type of electrician I would happily give my money to.
I'm sure it costs a few bucks to get on a call with him, but I've got a little work coming up while the wife is out of town, and if I run into a head-scratcher, I'd bet good money that he's cheaper than an electrician call-out when all a person needs is some good advice!
I was so surprised to see two of my favourite youtuber contractors working together. Great team work
Paul, you could easily be a presenter on any building television show. Watching these videos reminds me of "this old house" or other actual TV programs on this subject. The editing and filming is very professional too. You guys are doing such a great job from top to bottom. The building, the filming and the presentation. 💯 fellas! 👍💪
Thanks for brining us along for the ride. 🫡
Hey guys. Recommend a 3” expansion coupling where you come out of the ground into your meter.
It’s actually required here in Tennessee. I knew there would be a comment here.
What does this do? Is it for movement or cold weather issues? Thank you.
@@sterlingmullett6942 the pipe will always settle with time. Without the expansion coupling the forces will break fittings, bend the metal boxes or split the pipe from the fitting leaving the wire exposed to weather and damage.
@@ScrewThisGlueThat I see. Thank you. Yeah, they should probably cut that three inch pipe and affix an expansion coupling. Hopefully they will see your comment.
Here in New England they are a requirement as well
PVC for backer board is the same way I do all my electrical panels. Nice to see that great minds do think alike.
Where do you get them from
Wouldn't something a bit more fire resistant be better? Or at least something that won't spew toxic smoke when on fire?
@@MikrySoftRubber floor mats?
@MikrySoft yea, you're right. Anything can always be better.
@@baxtronx5972 I was thinking more in terms of fiber cement siding ("Hardie plank")
Dudes! I was about to start a 12 step program. Thanks for the fix 😂.
Paul, I'm not sure what the code requirements are there, but either way you may want to consider installing an expansion joint in the conduit vertical riser below the meter socket. It will protect conduit/meter socket damage from the settling of the earth in the trench.
You guys are doing a great job. I can't wait to see the finished project!
Also you need schedule 80 above ground, sch 40 below grade. Joel eluded to requiring an expansion coupling below the meter socket
@@grounded-b937Joel did mention the requirement for sch 80 above and 40 below!
In SE MO we need them on our underground electrical services too, isn’t part of the NEC that I have ever read, but per the utility gold book out here they require it. Also sch 80 is just for the connection that comes out of the ground since it is subject to physical damage. Awesome video guys!!!
Whether it’s code required or not as a home inspector and apprentice electrician I always highly recommend an expansion coupling below the meter. It’s almost impossible to install afterwards and you’ll be in a world of hurt if that conduit ever pulls out of the connector and exposes the utility side service entrance conductors. I’d ask Joel his opinion though, he will know better than me! Awesome work as always guys!
its code in my area for sure
Seems to be code for colder climates but the warmer climates don't seem to take expansion into consideration 🤔
I would have done one for sure. Mine has moved a bit during the years. I'm glad I did one.
definitely should have an expansion joint at the bottom of the meter socket. ground is not compact and will settle over time
@KeyDx7 look into getting outdoor duct seal it's electrical plumbers putty than maybe get some flex tape ?
This is some of the best content on UA-cam. Period. I'm a musician on the west coast and I get such a kick out of the quality you guys are pumping out. I'm reminded of an old saying... "Do you see a man who excels in his work? He will stand before kings; He will not stand before unknown men." You guys excel by every means. It's an absolute joy to watch!!
If you like this you would also really enjoy Victory Outdoor Services.
@@waynegoin5534 Thank you, Wayne! I appreciate the share!! Cheers! 🙏
Taking those stakes out of the ground--I saw the Perkins Builder Brothers use a long 2x4. They screwed the 2x4 to the stake and used the length of the 2x4 to raise the stake by lifting up on the 2x4. Fast.
Jordan... Have you considered much less wired for 10 Gigabit Ethernet (at least to the NAS and 2.5 Gigabit to your workstations) within your garage build since you'll have Fibre Optics incoming... Where do you plan on having your NAS located? Have you considered rack mount NAS and ethernet switch? Which NAS are you planning on getting? Personally, I favor QNAP for the job...
A farm jack works great to pull out fence posts when you do not have an excavator or are in tight quarters. They are about $50. Also, if you wrap your chain under itself (half hitch) when you wrap it around the 2x4, it will not slip when you are pulling.
Good work. One question from a career electrician. No slip joint on the conduit riser between the ground and the meter base? They are required in a lot of areas. Ground movement can bust the conduit when rigidly attached to the wall and meter base. Keep up the good work.
in the future, make sure you run a pull rope through a conduit made for internet before you glue it together, will make running lines much easier. When it comes time to run a network wire, you pull the network line through the conduit with the pull rope along with a new pull rope. Electric lines of that size are stiff and can be pushed through, fiber line not so much. For now i might suggest some fishing line attached to a small ball and some compressed air, push that through then with the fishing line pull a pull rope through it. Mind you i have 200ft fiber line in the ground connecting my startlink mounted on a 65ft tower to my house so I've used the pull rope before.
Since they didnt do that i would suggest a light string tied to a plastic grocery bag and sucked thru the pipe with shop vac
@@Kreativekarpentryofficial ohh never thought about suction and a grocery bag.
That was totally stressing me out, after seeing them fight with the big cables in the garage I can only imagine how much fun it will be to run the supply cable through that 90....
I would have left the hole open and put the pipes unglued in the hole and left them there until the electric company came to run the cable, while they are running the pipe through the pipe pieces id be right behind them gluing them up. then once done fill the hole.@@funkygawy
@@fixitfixitfixit My electric company wants everything done prior to inspection. From metal riser, to primer and glued PVC, to schedule 80 36"/24" sweeps, panel to building, mule tape installed... Everything before they will come out.
The connector at the meter WILL break when the 3" PVC settles you need an expansion coupling below the meter.
I've never worked with Joel directly but I've worked with some people at his company on several commercial projects. I highly recommend them. Good people.
First video I’ve seen on the channel. (Studying up for a 400A setup at our ranch) Fantastic info, but what’s even better is the workmanship throughout this home. 🤙 Awesome work!
I've been watching Joel for a couple years because he's so freaking professional, super glad to see this team up.
You also know it's great video when it feels like it's been forever since the LAST Stud Pack video! Awesome work guys , look forward to every update!! 👍❤️👍
Here the utility requires an expansion fitting coming out of the ground to the meter and an inspection by them prior to backfill
I put a little flux on the LIKE BUTTON, torqued it down, backed it out, re-torqued, then got an extra quarter turn on it.
For your hand digging between the garage and white fence, try a tiller attachment or separate tool to till up the dirt down to a layer you want and then it’s easy to remove the dirt. Remember, you want some top soil for grass or sod thickness accounted for.
Just throw down grass seed. They'll be fine😊
Sure hope that back yard neighbor loves all the water they will be sending his way.
Love ❣ this video , always love ❣ SP. videos , - from a U.S. perspective , but this one SPECIAL as in UK just west of London ~ I am a Chartered Engineer ~ IT. Electrical , brilliant as always thank you ' nice ! ' 🔌👏👏👏
Since I finished binge watching all of Stud Pack's videos and I anxiously await other videos from you guys, I have been binge watching "Brad the Builder" on UA-cam and Paul is a lot like Brad! You guys are the best two channels out there. Fantastic work and enthusiasm.
I was getting worried something had gone wrong! Great to see you dudes again!!
18:35 When hand digging those stakes, use a pressure washer wand to soften the dirt on one side. Or drive a couple of big screws thru the stake, and lift it out with a portable "jack."
Great video, good information! In case people try to copy and repeat... For tracer ribbon you actually want to install that up the vertical riser pipe and wrap around a foot or two of it at ground level or maybe so that you could just see some of it otherwise nobody knows it's there so there will be no way to detect it. Detectable marking tape (tracer wire / ribbon) is used for locators not metal detectors. Therefore you have to energize it.
Also another pro tip: swing the house of the mini x when using the blade up against the picket fence so your boom, stick and bucket can be tucked away neatly. 😊 Good work guys Hope this info helps you for further videos.
Can you just use a 14/2 as a tracer wire? What do you normally run ?
@@walnutcontractors5661 You can it's just way more expensive and you're putting two wires in the ground. I use 18 gauge or 20 gauge single copper wire but that's a little expensive too so I like underground detectable tracer tape. Plus the tape has words on it so if you're installing gas it's pretty important to let people know there's gas underground. Usually you would bury 1 to 2 ft and then lay down the detectable / tracer tape with the words gas on it. Then continue burying the rest of the way flush with the ground.
This way when you start digging if you hit the tape you know within a footer to the gas pipe is below the tape so you never hit the gas. 💪
I’m like… what the hell is Joel from Indiana doing in Texas? Good to show him so real heat. Best electrician and best teacher.
Have you thought about putting a small retention pond in the back corner of the yard? Over flow from big rains could go out to the street. There are ways to build it to keep mosquitos to a minimum.
Old ranchers trick when pulling those stakes, use a chain and a short section of post or other, hook the chain to the bumper of your vehicle and over the top of the post set at an angle, it till cantilever the stake out.
At the end near the road, I would have buried a 2.5 box over the pre-dug line for the utility connection. So you only have to dig up 6 inches, remove the box, then presto. As long as you don't have to drive over that area until the utilities are hooked up.
Just a quick question. Are you willing to share how much you are spending on this build? Materials, Rentals, tools etc? Maybe a running total at the end of the video? I understand if you don't want to just thought it would be informative. Great videos, great energy, great relationships between the 3 of you.
And how much does the mistakes cost?
Man, this is what you call “Top Shelf” electrical service!!
Great update on the garage. Not sure if it has been said, but I would have recommended a pull string in stalled on those 60 ft runs, 2-3ft deep is a bit deep for a pull box, but pull string would be a idea.
Love the vid's - as always. Question: Doesn't a local inspector need to ensure that the power is at proper depth? How would they confirm that?
Most Meter and panel installations give me heartburn - y’all’s looks fantastic. Love the PVC backer!
Watching you folks grow your channel like this has been a great adventure. I subbed when you had only 40K subs and look at you now! Well on your way to 1M subs. Congrats to all of you for the awesome videos, great team work, amazing results and wonderful folks.
Very interesting. The last time I built here in Georgia, the power company ran the line from the street to the meter. I am rather surprised that you guys did not have to have that conduit inspected before covering it. Also, here I have never been allowed to put more than one type of service in the same trench. One time I was using a 36 inch bucket and I was going to put the various utilities in the groove made by the teeth. I thought it was a cool idea as that would ensure that they were all evenly spaced apart. That prick of an inspector would not even let me backfill and bury within the area where the ditch was. He insisted everything had to have its own ditch. They would have been exactly one foot apart all the way (150 ft. ). Would have made locating later so easy.
I wondered about this too. I'm pretty sure my utility requires inspection first as well.
First, the connectors that were used for the backside of those enclosures are not correct. What was used are SEU rated, in which what should have been used was SER ( Round Throat ) connectors for the Service Entrance Round cable. You cannot use flat clamps on round cable. Unfortunately, that is a code violation. Second, I highly recommend a expansion coupling under that meter base, whether or not it's code. Third, at least 3-4 1/4" weep holes ( * in line) should have been drilled for the belly of the 3" ( Service Lateral ) at the lowest point in the event of water infiltration. Thumbs up to Joel for using the wire brush to spread the De-Ox. Most DE-Ox manufacturers suggest using wire brushes and many people don't. They just their finger which is not the proper way to apply it. Kudos to Paul for dressing the backing board with a chamfer. Nice touch!!!
I’m not sure what was more epic, watching the digging of the trench or listening to the epic time lapse music. Great video guys. Hope all is well in Tx. It’s getting cold up here in Mi!
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB IS THE TOP OF THE FINISHED CONCRETE/ FLOOR IS TO HAVE IT 18 INCHES ABOVE THE CROWN OR THE HIGHEST PART OF THE STREET BECAUSE OF FLOODING IF THE DRAINAGE GETS BLOCKED OR BACKED UP
Hey guys glad to see some more progress! On the line into the meter you need to install a slip collar fitting so should it settle (They all do!) It does not pull out of the meter Box. Also I believe so jurisdiction require 400 amp service conduit have a small hole on bottom of sweep 90, at lowest point to facilitate drying of condensation, rain or penetrating ground water. At least my last 4 residential and 2 commercial did. Great call on other conduit, its also good to put one in for cable cause they do not like cohabitation of there service lines.
No way in my area. A couple of 3/16" holes will do the job and not allow bugs in. Code states that any holes over think.its 1/4" must be filled in.
You should have ran pull wire through your conduit. Awesome job though. I like how you showed the elevations, I have been a critic on that in the past.
any reasonable shop vac will suck a pull string through that length with no trouble.
Recently found your channel and I can’t stop watching! Paul did I hear you say you were 57? I’m 55 and there’s no way I could keep up with you brother! Your a beast! Looking forward to your future videos!
thanks! I'm 60
When you terminate the conduit on your new pole, make sure the open end of the conduit is LOWER than then termination at the house, AND make sure there's some waterproofing on it, so that it doesn't get a lot of water in it.
And since the pole side will be lower, when that conduit does fill with water, it'll drain on the pole side, not into your meter box.
Ask me how I know.
I thought I was doing something going from 100 to 200amp...🤯
That idea about having the sheet of PVC or something behind meter is genius. If I ever get around to changing the siding, I am definitely doing that.
I did my 27 ft of trenching by hand - only had to be 20" down (so the PVC was 18" below grade). That was for 100 amp subpanel in my garage and 200 amp upgrade in my basement. Old main panel became that subpanel. This is cool seeing a killer garage build. The house build will be even better too! I'm glad they are getting solar too. It just makes too much sense with sunny roofs. I have 2 arrays and I'm up in Michigan.
@@whattheschmidtWhat would you need that many amps for? And is it legal?
@baxtronx5972 of course is legal, 200amp 240V service is very common. I want 100 amps in my garage to charge EVs. I have 1 50 amp 240V circuit in there. I also have my 5.4kW solar array into the subpanel in the garage.
We use the expanded PVC board instead of plywood for marine seating. and that price seems insane. We pay something like $125 for a sheet of 1/2 and like $170 for 3/4
Why dig the stakes when a Hi-lift jack, a couple of lag bolts and a chunk of chain would be way faster and less work? Great project, can't wait to see what's next!
Enjoyed the new video drop gang! And especially what seems to be the AC/DC background tunes? :) Such a pleasure watching all this as it comes together and seeing the various collaborations!!
Don't forget to liquid flash all the exterior nail and screw holes in the Zip sheeting.
26:26 - It comes with a what now? That means something very different here in the UK 😀
Keep up the great work guys, I love your videos!
Everything is looking wonderful. Your videos are more polished now. Jordan is more confident and comfortable which comes from experience. The explanations and always striving to look ahead and do it right or better is a joy to watch. You all make a good team. Get Rad in there as much as possible, he’s a beast and funny. Keep the videos coming Studpack
Random audio at about 3:20 over Senior talking about his PVC slab haha
5:00 schedule of pipe hidden, yeah looks great but now need mirror available for the inspector to see to verify. So maybe place label vertically down so the inspector can still see, but has the appearance you think is important.
Props for thinking ahead with the 1 inch conduit most utilities are requiring it now. Are you planning on also running a 1 inch flex conduit from the outside of the house to your demarcation point for all of your ethernet cables? Hopefully y’all planned for a Network closet that would be a great place to run it too. Especially if you’re going to add cameras and hardwired Ethernet to devices.
I don't disagree, but I wonder if it's really needed these days? Being hardwired is great and reduces interference, but considering wifi speeds, except for the most data intensive systems (home security cameras, video backups, home nas, etc) most computers, phones, gaming consoles, should work fine with a decent wifi setup. Although having a network closet couldn't hurt, just thinking the expense may not be worth it.
Thoughts?
@@sterlingmullett6942PoE availability is a lot better for fixed network appliances like door bells, cams, even lighting than wifi and having to recharge batteries.
My recommendation would be to pull a conduit all the way around to under that stair well where the switch board is going to be and then land your WAN connection there into a network rack.
Then all the structured wiring can land there too and make it nice and neat.
Just keep any ELV wiring at least 50mm away from LV wiring and it’ll be sweet.
@@sterlingmullett6942 While you can connect most devices with wifi, interference is a thing that you need to plan ahead for. Also, you probably want your wifi hotspots to be hardwired, and maybe a few more devices will require it too. It's a relatively small expense and saves a ton of headaches in the long run.
Also, you don't need a full on network closet, there can be minimal equipment in there.
Was literally just saying to my self, “ damn still no new stud pack vid.” 10 minutes later y’all deliver!
Hey Studpack team! Just wanted to drop some encouragement your way. This one is for Jordan.
I just wanted to say how much fun it is to see your growth as a videographer and editor. It is pretty great to watch. (Been watching and learing with you guys since well before the Dream House Build.) I particularly appreciate that you put the camera in spots to show things from angles we just would not see, even if we were on site with you. (Love the trench shot while back filling on this video.) These shots add so much interest for the viewer and I have no doubt these types of creative shots are a significant part of what draws people back over and over again. Just like you are doing with the build, keep working and learning more about what works best for shots and editing technique. And don't sweat it if something doesn't work out like you hoped. You can always edit the edits! Keep on rocking it!
Much appreciated!! Thanks mike!!
You get to cover a lot of work in that town without inspection.👌
I’ve got multiple new construction projects going on in my neighborhood. Rather than be annoyed by the buzz saws and nail guns, I just remind myself that is the sound of progress and the StudPack is hard at work making new videos for us!
I usually watch videos at 1.5 speed setting. With the exception of just a couple of channels, and this channel is at the top of that list! Normal speed every time so I can enjoy every one of your videos. 👍👍👍
Joel rock the electrical world. How to do the work the way it should be done.
I /love/ the idea of giving the house to local fire fighters to do a couple days of training with. Give them a reach chance to practice venting, cutting, breaching. Could be a fun video.
Another amazing video and another awesome team effort by Stud Pack. You guys are great! Thanks again for all you do and share with us. 🎉
So glad to see another StudPack video dropping!
"The slab-is-too-low-sayers". Love it, Jordan!
There were definitely quite a few of them!
You should look into installing an in-wall pest control tubing system before drywall for future pest control maintenance
I assume you will be replacing the picket fence (as a good neighbor😊). What kind will it be? Same as existing?
Electrician in Iowa here guys, content is great keep it up!
I'm thinking your inspector or AHJ might have you add a slip joint coupling in on your service riser so just be expecting that, and no, they are not cheap for a 3" 😂
you should expand your range of material use: indoor connector for an outdoor panel... should use rigid aluminum nipples for outdoor application. If things are awkward and doesn't seem right, its usually because it's not meant for the job that you're dealing with.
In my area all water must stay on property and no grades may be set that drain runoff onto either city or neighbor's land. You are fortunate to have building codes that allow grades for runoff from your property. Nice work so far you could have bought a single sheet 1/2" PVC and glued them together saving you some money. Ray
when you bury the electrical conduit(s), (you should use 2), don’t forget to add (2) for low voltage utilities, such as Fiber or copper for internet, and possibly coax if your area has cable TV ✅ note: never mind, I see you added a fiber conduit, think “bigger is better”, 1” is a tough pull, especially with elbows, sweeps.. would go 1.5” or even 2” low voltage and dual 4” for high voltage, even if you only need 1 conduit, the 2nd 4” is if you have a cable fire in the future, you akready have a spare conduit in place
I was a power company Distribution Engineer for 27 years. I approve your design. 🙂 Your neighbor will appreciate locating the generator in the back yard. 😅
Your electrician was awesome. Perfect choice for this episode. He could definitely have his own show.
Hey guys, normally when installing conduit for fiber cable the minimal duct size it 2 inches but 4 inches is normally the safest. Also the conduit must conform to ICEA S-104-696 standards and have a sweeping bend. Normally the Interconnct/TELE would install a 12pair drop to a home. Most clients are told to install a 90-100mm conduit with minimum sweeping bends. Hope this helps.
Let me say I do love this channel and have been subscribed for a few years. It is one of my favorites because of the building process from a unique point of view, very skilled but not quite professional.
We have a prescriptive code of 2% grade slope = 2ft per 100 ln ft. or 0.24" . Engineer to trade we use head math =1/4" per ln foot.
Always give an elevation with a distance, otherwise, it is garbage data with no meaning.
Do not use the top of the slab to final grade because you have to subtract the slab above grade. in your case, it is a sloped slab. The grade is dirt elevation, and the concrete slab is min 4" above dirt elevation.
The calculations are not measured from the low spot in the back of the yard to the low spot in the front as shown in the video. Measure from the highest spot in the rear to the low spot in the front, then design to mitigate the flow. Valleys can be 1/8" per foot slope. Think of it as the landscape feeding a river.
Excellent. Great to see 2 you tube channels that I like working together. You both make it look so easy. Planning and prep make for sweeter results--for you and for the next guy.
Hi Guys, Great work on the electrical and water runoff. I have one recommendation. When laying conduit and pipe, it's best to install a suitable draw wire or rope before completing the glue up. Saves time later and makes it easier when pulling in the final cable.
Great work so far.😊
When you forget to do that like I usually do, the easy way to recover is to tie some thin string (I use twine because I have a huge roll of it after switching from small bales to big round bales) to a wad of paper towel. Put a shopvac on one end of the conduit and suck both the towel wad and the string through. Then use the thin string to pull a heavier synthetic (so it won't rot) line. That line will be strong enough to pull both the electric wire and another pull line. You already know you'll have to get into that conduit again, don't you.
Mr. Stud, timely video. I need to replace 125 year old siding and thought of doing this like you guys but didn’t know I could get pvc in that size. Like you will have to bite the bullet on price but I’m 66 and 50+ year service like works.
Awesome got my “Stud Pack” fix FINALLY!!!
Just saw this, I like these two groups of youtube folks getting together, great episode
Wow, making fantastic progress, guys! 👏 great job on the electric stuff. I'm a little surprised you didn't have to get an inspection on the electrical pipe prior to backfill. But maybe you don't have to in your area. Keep rockin studpack
Beautiful stuff guys, can’t wait to see the plan for low voltage, world class no doubt with racks in the mechanical rooms with UPS protection.
LOL! I came out of the ground with my 90 and dry fit it looked great when I went to glue it it was tight fit I was workin alone my trench was alittle to deep and i slipped and it glued in slightly more on one side so it is crooked I tried to move it but it would not budge my foundation will cover it when I finish blocking it and I was not cuttin it ! But will be glad when it is behind block! It happens!
I've noticed in my area that the gas company runs a single conductor - looks like the white strand from 14/2 - along side the gas line and I assume you can hook a tone generator up to the strand at the gas meter and following and mark it back to the street if you ever have to do any digging. Maybe easier than detecting the metal caution tape.
You guys might want to go ahead and put silt fence up at the drain points. Could head of some complains and city notices if mud gets washed into road which it probably will. And I’d put a expansion joint on the main service for sure. Even if it’s not code. Texas gets colder and colder and movement might become a problem down there like pipes freezing has.
I believe standard fall on a exterior concrete slab is 1/4" per foot, so you are NOT super high with you building. A good heavy rain will tell the story.
Looks awesome. I like that tape.
When you guys are ready to address the drainage permanently, you might want to reach out to Apple Drains in FL. Top notch work and he's got a really great channel of his own.
Apple Drains is a great creator.
My wife loves the Stud Pack stud.
An expansion coupling also makes it much easier when entering meter equipment. I hope Joel catches this before wire gets put it
We are enjoying seeing all the progress you are making. This build is a lot of hard work, but you make it make sense, look good, and always quality workmanship.
Love the content. Alot of your choices I also used on a recent service upgrade as a DIY working under permit from my AHJ including PVC / VInyl backer board to my service box, and caution tape buried 12 inch above the conduit....
Wile it may not be code in TX, but in WI, we are required to use expansion joints anywhere conduit changes from Horizontal to vertical under grade.... I didn't see you use any, and this is a cheap insurance from future damage from ground movement.
Thank you for sharing!
Guys, check every day for another adventure into your build. Talk about an operator. Takes the excavated dirt and places it far enough away to be able to drive the machine between the spoil pile and the ditch. Good Job!
Hope to see some low voltage prewiring for security/cat6/coax/speakers. I would get a few home runs of cat6 from the TV location, places to put access points, and some automation. Also some speakers outside like the deck, living room, and especially that garage where you will be a lot during the house build.
Threaded Male PVC fitting are not water proof. I saw a fitting lock nut on the outside of the box that creates a gap. Gasket or Myers Hub on the fitting can be used for a better seal.
yall aught to get some straw and put it around the perimeter of the house now that you got the foundation cleaned up. It'll help prevent any mud from splashing back up onto the sides of the house.
SP I think you’ll have to seal those beveled edges on that PVC sheet. Cutting it leaves open “cells” that can hold moisture. Over time mildew will grow in them leaving a green or brown stain.
Heat gun? Then prime & paint.
No need to seal...it's impervious to mold or rot. Best stuff in the world!
Where you even find those boards, I can’t find them
@jeremyfields9925 the stuff I used is called AZEK. Google is your friend 😮
@@chrisosti next time you get some pvc trim, cut it. You’ll see while the outside surface is smooth, the inner part will feel rougher. This is the inner “cell” structure of PVC. Unless you seal that surface, over time water, dust, and dirt can accumulate. So you would need to clean it regularly or it will discolor.
I remember the tadpoles in that old driveway at your mom’s house, Paul!!