So good to see an encouragement to DiYers to have a go at plastering. I've NO training at all and have done many jobs like that over the years. Yes, it's not perfect at first, but acceptable once painted, and it gets better every time you do a bit. I ended up once doing a whole room (very small) including the ceiling. Worked out OK in the end.
Best DIY videos on UA-cam. You inspired me to install dry rods myself, I saved myself £800 from all the damp course cowboys. Bloody hard work drilling the holes though 😂
I have a problem and wondered if you can advise me on it, which is that I have just taken up a very old carpet. (I am in a 1980s block of flats) and underneath is concrete which is very crumbly and worn in parts and quite holy particularly by the entrance where there is quite a deep hole Is this an easy thing to repair before putting on a new floor or would I be better advised to get someone in to do it?
@@jesswright9617 I’ll answer as I think Roger’s busy! 😅 Easy to fix yourself if it’s just a bit of wear and tear.👍🏼 Apply SBR bonding agent (Dunlop is good) over the entire surface using a paint roller. This primes the dusty surface. Then fill any holes with @sika_everbuild Deep Rapid Repair. Allows a 25-150mm fill depth, mix with water, smooth over with a trowel. All products available at Selco.
@@jesswright9617Sounds like a job you can do yourself… Remove any loose material, apply SBR over the entire surface with a paint roller to stabilise the dusty surface, Fill holes with Sika Everbuild deep rapid repair (25mm to 150mm depth possible) mix with water, fill holes and smooth over flat with a trowel. All products available at Selco. Job done! 👍🏼😊
You can learn plumbing and still have time in life for other things. People who think in terms of one trade for life are missing out on so many things.
I've never heard of highline plaster. Probably because he said "high lime". 😣 Good DIY job. Don't be scared. Start with a clean floor though, or it'll end up on the trowel and you'll get long scores in your lovely new plaster.
I’ve done this many a time and there are many different ways of doing it. Nothing wrong with this. If you’re crap on the trowel, slap it on with anything, then rule it back with anything that’s straight. You can buy some skim filler from B and bubbly, then sand back. Not everyone has plastering tools. Key is SBR on the porous backing plaster.
How would the job have gone if you didn't use SBR , why do you think the original plaster detatched from the wall, and was there salt spoiling on the wall?
The original wall could have been too dry when it was plastered. When the wall is very dry my understanding is that the moisture is sucked out of the wet plaster before it is able to cure properly and you get poor adhesion.
Very helpful, I've got a bit of this to do and another area I want to add very thin insulation to. Any thoughts on fitting something like elements board (insulated tile backer board) on the inside of solid brick 9" walls then skimming it? Can't afford the space of full battening and plasterboard, and can't really EWI a Victorian gaff. Could use strips of elements to batten it I guess. Cheers Roger for all your work & content!
How would you know when to use lime plaater vs gypsum. I habe blown plaster but the cavity wall is breeze blocks, would i need hardwall then as a base coat?
If the wall is dry with no ongoing damp problems then use hardwall. If there are salts or traces of previous damp then use the Hi Lime and any moisture will pass through but leave the plaster intact.
Hi roger. You day dont use vinyl matt. .but for a wall, in time, surely thats where you would wan to use vinyl..so could you say use contract emulsion on the bare new plaster, then vinyl after time has passed?
No, it is not a good idea to use vinyl paint on any wall that may have damp. If the lime plaster is sealed it prevents the water vapour passing through and the paint will bubble. If you have plasterboard in an above ground wall then vinyl paints are fine.
@SkillBuilder thanks Roger. Love your video about Jack of all trades BTW. And yes I've moved from an office to a trade "that doesn't need to tidy up" after itself 😁😁😁
Would be good to have a quick comment about when its ok to use pva and when you MUST use SBR. SBR is much more stable in areas prone to damp. PVA will break down when exposed to continual damp Thank you
I didn't want to confuse matters by even mentioning PVA. I always use SBR these days because it is so much better. The trick with DIY videos is to keep everything as simple as possible rather than giving people too much background knowledge.
Where I live there isn’t a plasterer for a hundred miles and none of the stores bother to sell it. The “professional” way to deal with bad plaster is to cover it in drywall. Seeing these videos I wonder what Roger’s knees are made of.
@@SkillBuilder ive got a problem ceiling in a bathroom where the paint keeps flaking off. Ive tried a coat of watered down pva before painting but its still peeling off again. Could i use SBR instead? thank you in adavnce
@@SkillBuilder I have seen something similar here in the states called Plasterweld. Plaster products have become more of a specialty item here unfortunately. I would generally prime an area like this with oil base primer, then fill with a setting-type of drywall compound. Do you think that would be a problem over time?
@@Lutonman2010pva is definitely not your answer. Paint sticks poorly to pva and should never be used under paint- so now you’ve created an “anti paint” layer. It’s often talked about on DIY forums - but all professionals know don’t use it like this. What you need is a stabiliser. - that is a very different thing. If the paint is too poorly bonded to what’s underneath you may have to still get the delaminating paint off. The fact it’s a high humidity area only exacerbates any underlying problems like you have - but this is true for paint anywhere . Do not pva before painting. Zinsser and I believe dulux do some good stabiliser / paint combined products though I forget their name. I’d suggest going into a dulux trade centre and asking or some other professional decorator supply place (eg brewers in the southeast east) . Don’t go into a DIY shed like b&q etc as they don’t know about professional decorating and don’t carry the range of products you’d require. Plasterers used to use pva watered down as a sealer (sonit wicks into porous surfaces, so as to create “low suction “ surfaces, but plasteres seem to have gone over to sbr - which you use in a similar way - as Roger Is here asit is resistant to water once it has cured unlike pva, if there is dampness in the future. It’s resistance to dampness - I dont mean as a water proofer - but so any priming characteristics from it don’t deteriorate … One coat as Roger used (for plastering) seals the surface - and turns it into a low suction surface (so the plaster doesn’t dry out too quick and not cure properly - or worse have different suction in different areas which makes plastering difficult as the plaster cures at different rates across the surface as you’re working it) and a second coat acts as a primer - a chemical key between the plaster and the surface. One coat won’t act as a primer as it disappears into the surface … often plasters actually use a diffeeent product called pregrit as a primer - which is sbr with sand added - as it creates a rough surface - and allows you to plaster otherwise smooth surfaces .
Love you Rog, however, not nit picking but.. You've SBR'd the wall, which has waterproofed it. Then you've used lime, stating it'll allow the wall to breathe (being a cellar). The 2 contradict each other mate. Might as well have just used multi finish after you've SBR'd the patch.
I understand why you might think that but let me explain this a little better for you. SBR is a bonding agent that is water resistant. If you apply it neat it will skin over and hold back moisture quite well but as a 3 to 1 mix it will form a primer coat with some adhesive properties but it will still allow water vapour (not water droplets) to pass through. The point of having a lime plaster in these situation is that any damp that does get through in the form of water vapour will pass through the lime plaster. Gypsum plaster also allows water to pass through but when it gets wet it deteriorates rapidly so it should never be used in situations where water migration is possible. I hope that helps clarify the situation
Ok let me explain this a little better for you. SBR is a bonding agent that is water resistant. If you apply it neat it will skin over and hold back moisture quite well but as a 3 to 1 mix it will form a primer coat with some adhesive properties but it will still allow water vapour (not water droplets) to pass through. The point of having a lime plaster in these situation is that any damp that does get through in the form of water vapour will pass through the lime plaster. Gypsum plaster also allows water to pass through but when it gets wet it deteriorates rapidly so it should never be used in situations where water migration is possible.
@@SkillBuilder the water either hydrates in the cementious compound or evaporates leaving a layer of styrene butadiene copolymer latex, which whilst not fully impermeable at the thickness applied, will still form a moisture/vapour barrier.
Let me tell you my history. Multiple cracked and chipped plaster 30mm thick on 4.5m walls on an old building 3 floors 😂 Option a) carry bags and bags of lime and sand up the stairs Option b) rip it all, bare bone stone wall and stick drywall over it Option c)leave as is, stick dry wall over it Opition c) cry in the fetal position
Any first time DIY plasterers, I taught myself almost entirely from this video and have now successfully plastered 3 walls that needed it. ua-cam.com/video/zCzoOLxWRtc/v-deo.htmlsi=4WN6r11x3vkzu3mV
So good to see an encouragement to DiYers to have a go at plastering. I've NO training at all and have done many jobs like that over the years. Yes, it's not perfect at first, but acceptable once painted, and it gets better every time you do a bit. I ended up once doing a whole room (very small) including the ceiling. Worked out OK in the end.
He's got a lot of skills and knowledge this bloke.
Best DIY videos on UA-cam. You inspired me to install dry rods myself, I saved myself £800 from all the damp course cowboys. Bloody hard work drilling the holes though 😂
Good job Roger, I always think of plastering as a trade that takes years to master… but patch repairs I think are doable! 👍🏼😊
Very true
So true, no time pressure on a patch job, doing a whole wall turns you into a rabid dog 😂
I have a problem and wondered if you can advise me on it, which is that I have just taken up a very old carpet. (I am in a 1980s block of flats) and underneath is concrete which is very crumbly and worn in parts and quite holy particularly by the entrance where there is quite a deep hole Is this an easy thing to repair before putting on a new floor or would I be better advised to get someone in to do it?
@@jesswright9617 I’ll answer as I think Roger’s busy! 😅 Easy to fix yourself if it’s just a bit of wear and tear.👍🏼 Apply SBR bonding agent (Dunlop is good) over the entire surface using a paint roller. This primes the dusty surface. Then fill any holes with @sika_everbuild Deep Rapid Repair. Allows a 25-150mm fill depth, mix with water, smooth over with a trowel. All products available at Selco.
@@jesswright9617Sounds like a job you can do yourself… Remove any loose material, apply SBR over the entire surface with a paint roller to stabilise the dusty surface, Fill holes with Sika Everbuild deep rapid repair (25mm to 150mm depth possible) mix with water, fill holes and smooth over flat with a trowel. All products available at Selco. Job done! 👍🏼😊
Very interesting. I have never actually dealt with plaster. Nice to see some basics
Brilliant stuff, no over-complicating it for a DIY audience, just recommend the best materials for the job and get fired in.
Roger, I thought you were a plumber! Great job. great video. Thank you!
You can learn plumbing and still have time in life for other things. People who think in terms of one trade for life are missing out on so many things.
Top job Rodger!
Your plastering skills have definitely improved since kirks tips 👍
No they haven't
brilliant fix
Nice one roger
Good info, thanks, I used some pva before patching
Its also a good idea to cut back the plaster around the patch your repairng
It is but the SBR will stick it nicely
👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽 the video i actually need perfect thanks!
I've always been terrified of plaster and paid pros but you made that look doable
The trick is to practice on small jobs like this one.
He made it look painful, from a plasterer's eyes
@@SandJAngling I bet plastering quotes hurt my ears more than your eyes
Reminds of when I used gypsum one coat plaster
The Knauf one coat is more like this, it sponges up well
You should have used Big Kirk's Pink SBR. Can't beat slapping on a bit of the pink.
I will be seeing him soon so I will get some for my next job.
He wants money for it, not cuddles mind! 😂
@@frenchgreguk😂
I would have thought on the trowel would have supplied you with some of his pink sbr 😊
One question, can you use foil backed plasterboard to stop damp coming through again?
It will help but it won't last. The best thing is Elements Tilebacker which is waterprood and has an insulated core rather than gypsum.
@SkillBuilder it's in a kitchen, can the tile backer board be plastered on to directly, or does it need plaster boarding over first? Thank you
When in doubt, SBR.
Wondering should the plaster go all the way to the floor? I've heard there should be a gap between the bottom of plaster and the floor?
Yes but in this case there is a membrane under the floor and up the wall. The floor is heated to it will help dry the wall out
Thanks Roger 👍
Need to go check on how to do it correctly again
I've never heard of highline plaster. Probably because he said "high lime". 😣
Good DIY job. Don't be scared. Start with a clean floor though, or it'll end up on the trowel and you'll get long scores in your lovely new plaster.
I’ve done this many a time and there are many different ways of doing it. Nothing wrong with this.
If you’re crap on the trowel, slap it on with anything, then rule it back with anything that’s straight.
You can buy some skim filler from B and bubbly, then sand back.
Not everyone has plastering tools.
Key is SBR on the porous backing plaster.
How would the job have gone if you didn't use SBR , why do you think the original plaster detatched from the wall, and was there salt spoiling on the wall?
The original wall could have been too dry when it was plastered. When the wall is very dry my understanding is that the moisture is sucked out of the wet plaster before it is able to cure properly and you get poor adhesion.
you can clearly see that there is no key in the base coat
Very helpful, I've got a bit of this to do and another area I want to add very thin insulation to.
Any thoughts on fitting something like elements board (insulated tile backer board) on the inside of solid brick 9" walls then skimming it? Can't afford the space of full battening and plasterboard, and can't really EWI a Victorian gaff. Could use strips of elements to batten it I guess. Cheers Roger for all your work & content!
Yes you can stick it with cement based ceramic tile adhesive. It is a good option
Top man, would like to draw Plans for your Jobs.
How would you know when to use lime plaater vs gypsum. I habe blown plaster but the cavity wall is breeze blocks, would i need hardwall then as a base coat?
If the wall is dry with no ongoing damp problems then use hardwall. If there are salts or traces of previous damp then use the Hi Lime and any moisture will pass through but leave the plaster intact.
@SkillBuilder brilliant! Thanks Roger, keep up the great content. Oh..do I still have to SBR block work prior to hardwall?
What’s sbr?
styrene-butadiene rubber otherwise known as SBR primer. Applied to a dusty surface, it helps adhesion of the new plaster to the old surface. 👍🏼😉
Hi roger. You day dont use vinyl matt.
.but for a wall, in time, surely thats where you would wan to use vinyl..so could you say use contract emulsion on the bare new plaster, then vinyl after time has passed?
No, it is not a good idea to use vinyl paint on any wall that may have damp. If the lime plaster is sealed it prevents the water vapour passing through and the paint will bubble. If you have plasterboard in an above ground wall then vinyl paints are fine.
@SkillBuilder thanks Roger. Love your video about Jack of all trades BTW.
And yes I've moved from an office to a trade "that doesn't need to tidy up" after itself 😁😁😁
Would be good to have a quick comment about when its ok to use pva and when you MUST use SBR.
SBR is much more stable in areas prone to damp.
PVA will break down when exposed to continual damp
Thank you
I didn't want to confuse matters by even mentioning PVA. I always use SBR these days because it is so much better.
The trick with DIY videos is to keep everything as simple as possible rather than giving people too much background knowledge.
👍👍👍. Thanks
So that’s why some paints that I apply on the walls bubble 🙏
Probably something on the wall. Try a coat of 50/50 sbr, then paint.
Where I live there isn’t a plasterer for a hundred miles and none of the stores bother to sell it. The “professional” way to deal with bad plaster is to cover it in drywall.
Seeing these videos I wonder what Roger’s knees are made of.
Right to left Roger😂
left to right, right to left, bottom to top in and out, ying and yang. What is the end result?
What is SPR?
SBR is a selant and bonding agent used in mortar and render
@@SkillBuilder ive got a problem ceiling in a bathroom where the paint keeps flaking off. Ive tried a coat of watered down pva before painting but its still peeling off again. Could i use SBR instead? thank you in adavnce
An adhesive sealing coat but much better that old style PVA
@@SkillBuilder I have seen something similar here in the states called Plasterweld. Plaster products have become more of a specialty item here unfortunately. I would generally prime an area like this with oil base primer, then fill with a setting-type of drywall compound. Do you think that would be a problem over time?
@@Lutonman2010pva is definitely not your answer. Paint sticks poorly to pva and should never be used under paint- so now you’ve created an “anti paint” layer. It’s often talked about on DIY forums - but all professionals know don’t use it like this. What you need is a stabiliser. - that is a very different thing. If the paint is too poorly bonded to what’s underneath you may have to still get the delaminating paint off. The fact it’s a high humidity area only exacerbates any underlying problems like you have - but this is true for paint anywhere . Do not pva before painting.
Zinsser and I believe dulux do some good stabiliser / paint combined products though I forget their name. I’d suggest going into a dulux trade centre and asking or some other professional decorator supply place (eg brewers in the southeast east) . Don’t go into a DIY shed like b&q etc as they don’t know about professional decorating and don’t carry the range of products you’d require.
Plasterers used to use pva watered down as a sealer (sonit wicks into porous surfaces, so as to create “low suction “ surfaces, but plasteres seem to have gone over to sbr - which you use in a similar way - as Roger Is here asit is resistant to water once it has cured unlike pva, if there is dampness in the future. It’s resistance to dampness - I dont mean as a water proofer - but so any priming characteristics from it don’t deteriorate …
One coat as Roger used (for plastering) seals the surface - and turns it into a low suction surface (so the plaster doesn’t dry out too quick and not cure properly - or worse have different suction in different areas which makes plastering difficult as the plaster cures at different rates across the surface as you’re working it) and a second coat acts as a primer - a chemical key between the plaster and the surface. One coat won’t act as a primer as it disappears into the surface … often plasters actually use a diffeeent product called pregrit as a primer - which is sbr with sand added - as it creates a rough surface - and allows you to plaster otherwise smooth surfaces .
SBR is not for plastering, tell me one manufacturer who specs it for plastering?
Love you Rog, however, not nit picking but.. You've SBR'd the wall, which has waterproofed it. Then you've used lime, stating it'll allow the wall to breathe (being a cellar). The 2 contradict each other mate. Might as well have just used multi finish after you've SBR'd the patch.
I understand why you might think that but let me explain this a little better for you. SBR is a bonding agent that is water resistant. If you apply it neat it will skin over and hold back moisture quite well but as a 3 to 1 mix it will form a primer coat with some adhesive properties but it will still allow water vapour (not water droplets) to pass through. The point of having a lime plaster in these situation is that any damp that does get through in the form of water vapour will pass through the lime plaster.
Gypsum plaster also allows water to pass through but when it gets wet it deteriorates rapidly so it should never be used in situations where water migration is possible. I hope that helps clarify the situation
This is exactly what I was thinking. Skip the sbr and give the wall a good wet down instead
One coat plaster 😊😊😊😊 yeah right
It has been around for hundreds of years
In come the plasterers to tell you your wiping your arse wrong
😂
T Rex it ; get it on ; the wall.
If you use SBR the wall cannot breath past the product. Its primary use is as a waterproofer
Ok let me explain this a little better for you. SBR is a bonding agent that is water resistant. If you apply it neat it will skin over and hold back moisture quite well but as a 3 to 1 mix it will form a primer coat with some adhesive properties but it will still allow water vapour (not water droplets) to pass through. The point of having a lime plaster in these situation is that any damp that does get through in the form of water vapour will pass through the lime plaster.
Gypsum plaster also allows water to pass through but when it gets wet it deteriorates rapidly so it should never be used in situations where water migration is possible.
@ from the Sika website for SBR “Excellent resistance to water and water vapour”
yes but obviously as you dilute it that changes. Think of water at one end and SBR at the other. What is in the middle?
@@SkillBuilder the water either hydrates in the cementious compound or evaporates leaving a layer of styrene butadiene copolymer latex, which whilst not fully impermeable at the thickness applied, will still form a moisture/vapour barrier.
@@glynnepritchard2526let's ask Kirk
Let me tell you my history. Multiple cracked and chipped plaster 30mm thick on 4.5m walls on an old building 3 floors 😂
Option a) carry bags and bags of lime and sand up the stairs
Option b) rip it all, bare bone stone wall and stick drywall over it
Option c)leave as is, stick dry wall over it
Opition c) cry in the fetal position
Oh yea, love, NO VINYL PAINT on older houses. I hate vinyl paint. Like i hate wster based paint on top of gloss!
Why does a plaster finish look like someone has painted dirty plaster water over it and left to dry.
too much water in the final trowel up. Once it is painted it will be fine
@SkillBuilder All the videos I've seen the paint just sits on top of the plaster and the plaster looks fatty
Any first time DIY plasterers, I taught myself almost entirely from this video and have now successfully plastered 3 walls that needed it.
ua-cam.com/video/zCzoOLxWRtc/v-deo.htmlsi=4WN6r11x3vkzu3mV
Was painful to watch, SBR stains use PVA and just skim it with multi finish plaster
PVA is not suitable in damp condition and neither is gypsum. Every plasterer knows that
Nice one Roger.
Our porch gets plastered on the 30 th November….. finally! 😆🧱👍🏽