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I got let go from my job as an electrical apprentice 2 months ago and content like yours has helped me distract myself while I look for work. Thanks for the videos man
I work in a dental lab and we have UV cure resin which I've experimented with for hobby applications. While that stuff works great for it's intended use in the lab, it's a bit lackluster for gaming projects, though this stuff you've reviewed looks excellent. I'll have to check it out! Also this hobby stuff costs about one fifth the price tag for the dental stuff...so win win! Also I like the "live" format. It's fun to see you figuring it out as you go.
Real time testing is worth doing: if the product doesn't work in an application, we see it; if it's fiddly, we see how; and the range of variations/applications you try out on the spot are great for sparking creativity.
A good UV solution is actually the small UV light canopies made for curing finger nail polish. You can pick one up from Amazon for about $10-20 USD and just put your item under it and walk away rather than holding a flashlight over it. It's what I use to cure my resin 3D prints.
Uv resin has been pretty big in the crafting world in the last few years. One thing to keep in mind if making bigger casts with this stuff, the light needs to get to the resin in order to cure, using a clear mold becomes important, especially if working with inks to color it that would block the light. Jackie from Nerdycrafter uses it all the time, especially on her polymer clay sculptures. Plus she is a fellow Canadian 🇨🇦 she gives a lot of good tips.
I definitely prefer seeing you try out products live, before you know 100% what you're doing. If you make any mistakes, it saves us from making them. :)
Greenstuff World has become my go-to for sculpting and basing needs. That was before I saw your video. I had some bad experiences with other companies, and Greenstuff World had everything I needed and could want, and delivered. It's been a good experience so far.
It sounds like the same stuff as what is used for doing gel nails. The stuff they use at nail salons. Not sure if it is but sure sounds like it. Maybe you should do a comparison of the two and see if they work the same. Yes a blacklight is a kind of UV light.
Was just about to say the same thing. UV nail stations are cheap and you can put a bunch of small stuff in it and just leave it. On another note, you can get resin from AliExpress cheap. We've been doing crafts with it for years and it's pretty good.
I use UV resin a lot. You can use it for much more than tiny pieces. Layering helps. It also seems to work better with alcohol inks rather than acrylic inks. I've even casted 3 and 4" pyramids with it. Not just a solid pyramid, but layered with other embedded items. It took me about a half hour to complete one. It seems to cure harder as time goes on, but doesn't get brittle. I use a larger UV light than that one that I bought on Amazon. I make creature eyes of many sizes, up to 50mm with UV resin, and have never had a problem with it. I wish I could show you pictures of the many things I have created with just the UV resin!
UV resin is quite common in crafting, mostly in jewlery stuff. If you use a clear mold, you can create pretty big and complex creations from it. NerdECrafter has quite a few vids on it and one of the best brands I know is Sophie and Toffie. They have molds, many tutorials and projects like making your own D&D dice set. Its a more "feminine" part of the craft community, but I think the applications are VERY useful in terrain type crafts too!
i use uv resin for my other hobby tying flys for fly fishing in that application it is basically used as an instant varnish that drys in 20 seconds or so to speed up time rather than using regular varnish which takes about 15 minutes per coat.
If you want transparent and opaque color UV resin or even liquid or powder pigments for UV or epoxy resin Sophie and Toffee and Miniature Sweet carry some that I'm sure work the exact same too. I was worried that when the resin heats as it cures it would damage the plastics of miniatures but I'm glad you showed it doesn't seem to affect it at all.
I like the dirty approach to finding out the limits of a product. I mean, you can see that you take a measured approach, but it's still good to see the experimental process and genuine pitfalls. Great video and I especially like the drooling fangs!
I've had Green Stuff World pop up on my Facebook page for a little while now so had a look at their website. This stuff court my eye but wasn't sure about it so I want to thank you for trying it, it looks like it will be great for jazzing up bases and small waterscape. Thx again
UV resin has been popular among east Asian crafters (and those with adjacent interests) for awhile! It's often used for making charms and jewelry. I encourage you to check it out -- there's a surprising gap between the gaming miniatures and the crafting miniatures communities, even though both sides have a lot in common and a lot to share!
Love the live review format! Victories, failures, surprises, all in real time. Fantastic. I'll be picking up some of this resin for adding details to minis as you dud with the spider. Wonderful idea!
I've been wanting to try this! Drying time is really compelling! A few minutes with this compared to doing water and drool effects with vallejo and waiting 24h. Good vid!
There are loads of UV craft resins out there, that is very expensive for a tiny bottle. Most nail lamps will work just fine, but on very thin pieces, lower power to start with will stop a lot of possible warping that can happen. (So will putting the item under a heavy object for a while after curing.
It's easier to mix the colours outside of the mold, you risk less bubbles that way. You can also mix acrylic paints and powdered pigments in to colour the resin. You do have to be careful with what molds you use though, the light has to be able to reach everything, otherwise you'll end up with a sticky mess. Definitely great for flat things like doors :)
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial for the most part, unless you're able to make the mold from clear silicone. But I think you'd want more light than the torch for setting that, like maybe one of those UV nail lamps.
3D printing resins aren't all brittle. There's the standard stuff, pretty brittle. There's High-temp resin, VERY brittle. There's now flexible resin, not brittle in the least. And there's what I use in my printer, Tough resin which has PVC-like qualities. Printer resins can also be blended to create a wide variety of material properties. For instance, I have one mix I created that finishes very similar to resin aquarium decorations. 3D printer resins are very thick, and there's no bubbles in any of them unless you've just finished shaking the bottle. For prices, typical resins run about US$100 per liter. However, Siraya brand resins, which includes their absolutely great for tabletop models Blu resin, runs under US$50 per liter. This equates to being easily less than US$2 per normal size mini. TL;DR; Green Stuff World either being deceptive, or doesn't have a clue what they're talking about. That's not to say the product isn't a fine product, just that they're misleading in regard to other products.
^^^^^^ Can't agree more. Siraya Tenacious or Monocure Flex are the two most popular flexible resins. I've seen a video of a batman bust made with Tenacious literally being thrown across a room with no visible damage. Would be interesting to see it in a resin molding process.
Love the review, and love that you go outside the box with the application (water pooling etc), I willk definitely add this to the aresenal solely based on your review of the product. The format as well as the content as always, is on point. Rock on, man. PS - beard is looking lush.
Thanks for the video, I knew the product and was wondering if it was fitting for my use of it, you helped me o nthat :) 2 questions : - How much of the bottle do you think you have used for 1 door, roughly ? - Do you think we could brush this stuff over the small details of a big mould, then use 2-part for the rest of it ? Could it be better for bubbles ?
To partially answer the 2nd question, theoretically yes, you could. Resin tends to “eat” other resin, aka bonds and merges. So it wouldn’t be a bad idea to try it out on a mass produced mold/simple mold and see how it holds up. I would say it’s best used on smaller, but detailed parts like minis, furniture/details for buildings, etc. Stuff like tiles wouldn’t need this, for instance. Plus since it’s got a long use time, your brushes won’t become a matted clumped mess. Only partially over time.
Wow, what a great Reviewsday Video. This rasin is the one I dreamed of. :-D Though I never molded something and poured with any rasin, I am always excited of the works of people who do. To me it always seems to be a very expensive work. Not only from costs, also from preparing steps and to many occasions for making mistakes. ;) This UV rasin seems to make it all much easier. GSW does a good job providing you with its stuff. Its worth of it for all of us. It results in a win-win-win situation. GSW gets a promotion, you get viewers and maybe patrons, we users can see this stuff in action and getting advice for free. Thumbs up! Thank you.
Most 3D printer resin is brittle but you can also get flexible resin which you can mix into the normal stuff, normally a 20 - 80 or 30 - 70 mix ;). The best thing about UV curing resin, if you have bubble holes you can just use more resin in the holes and cure it, most of us with resin 3D printers do that if we have issues or need to "glue" prints together.
I've been making little glow in the dark ghost with UV resin. I had the same reaction when I put it under the light. Shouldn't have been surprising, but it's still really cool!
Appreciate the on screen experimentation. I believe that as product usage is simplified, it has the potential to draw more people into the tabletop crafting hobby... which is a good thing. Thanks for sharing.
Nail technicians use gel nail polish (which is fairly cheap and comes in many colours) which cures under UV and becomes very hard. It's generally not too brittle because otherwise nails would chip. You can also get hands-free UV lamps that you would put your hand under. Combining the lamp with even this resin would be a good idea so you don't have to hold the lamp with your hand.
I've seen this used for water bases and drip/drool effects but good to see you apply it to small part casting. Definitely something I'll be picking up with the code. Pleased to see you review it.
I'd recommend against darker inks to avoid not curing right, and something like carbon black would almost certainly cause problems as one of it's features is blocking UV light to help protect against sun-damage. Since blacklights are mostly UV with a bit of extra purple (if you can see a "UV" light, it's this), and aluminum reflects most of the UV frequencies you'd need for this, you could rig up an awesome curing box out of a blacklight and aluminum foil or a soda can to make sure a darker or more opaque part cures fully. Just make sure there's not a heat problem. As a side note, a smooth-edge or safety can opener turns soda cans into great crafting supplies as long as you don't run the cans through a dishwasher.
I got 2 bottles of this when it came out but I haven't had a chance/reason to use it yet but I also have a Photon and I will agree with them that the resin is super brittle. I don't think it would work very well in a silicone mold at all because it would likely break when you tried to demold. It might work ok in a more rigid mold similar to injection molding process though that isn't very easily done as a hobby thing. As an aside i also got a couple tubs of their powdered acrylic resin at the same time and have used the whole first tub and half the second one and I love it. Works really well and you can play around with the viscosity to aid in pouring at a slight cost of drying time. The powder does solve the problem of the shelf life of traditional resins though and wasn't terribly expensive.
I've bought UV Resin on Amazon used for jewelry and have been using it for the same, gap filler. I also used it on a beholder model to fill the eyes to give them a glassy, shiny eye like appearance. I got the resin for $11.99 for 60g on Amazon. Also, I have used an old paint bruch to paint this resin into small places like the rivets on the door you cast. Place in some resin and use the brush to go into each of the small details then fill the rest of the mold up. Has worked well doing it that way.
Good stuff. If you live in Japan, similar UV resin in clear and various pre-tinted tubes plus additive powders and stuff is available in little tubes at Daiso (Japanese dollar store).
I suggest that you fill the mold continuously without stopping and without lifting the tip from the resin already in the mold. Every time you stop and lift the tip, a tiny air bubble enters the end of the tip and when you start again, you push the bubble out into the resin in the mold. Its the same principle crafters use when putting resin or thick glazing liquid as dome finishes over art bases and other things.
I think this is great, so I'm going to give it a try 😀 I already have a UV torch from doing UV /blacklight painting. Been meaning to try resin for a while so this is a great start.
This is great. I've been looking for something to cast headlight lenses and windscreens for my train conversions. Thanks for the review. All the best....Tom
This might even work well with regular 2 part resin. If you have small details prone to air bubbles, use this stuff for them. Leave it in the mold after UV curing and then use normal resin to cover and fill the rest of the mold. It should stick/bond with the normal resin so you have a nice cast piece once done. This also reminds me of the 5 second glues that were on the market a few years back and worked using the same principal
Saw some great GSW vids showing UV resin used for spell and/or force shields. Used a ping pong ball for one, but I bet backside of spoons or similar would be great for prepping shield shapes. You can also build it up , pouring and uv'ing as it pours. Thinking you could make horns, spikes, and all kinds of need beastly bits with that technique. Exciting times!
So lesson learned. I tried using some of my uv printer resin in a mold I had, and painting it on and hardening layers totally worked..... But, the mold was blue stuff, which is heat activated, so I trashed the mold. When using UV resin be careful to only use it in molds that are chemically cured, not heat and melt.
building on this, be careful if you're using this type of resin to make water pools on foam. The foam can melt slightly and release air bubbles. Make sure there's a good amount of layers of pva glue, paint, and any other substrate to help protect it. A simple painted foam surface will definitely melt
For anyone interested in playing with UV Resin long term: Invest in a usb/wall plug uv nail polish lamp! While the flashlights are nice, they go through batteries quick!
sorry this is the first time ive watched one of your vids so thanks. i like watching you working it out on camera (discovering ways to use/test it). i find it helpful to think of what projects i might use it for later. that spider idea was bad ass
I love the format - live reviews, live "happy accidents" and live ideas are great. I love the water effect on the spider. I have different resins for 3D printing, some are brittle but some are very tough - time to try this out before buying the GWS stuff. One thing to check is if this resin will become yellow - some clear resin I have may become very yellow depending of the UV wavelength (and yes - "black light" is UV)
Get a vibrating motor out of an old phone. Make a platform on springs from bic pens. Attach the motor. Power with USB Now you have a vibrating table for the bubbles. The UV nail drying hoods work fairly well.
Green stuff world released a video just a few days ago where they used it to 'sink' haunted tree stumps on miniature bases. They had bubbles, but the also said they could be potentially removed using heat. Will have to pick up some now for sure. 😉
So I finally got some today. Tried it in a small mould made from oyamaru first (small postage stamp size), and while it worked as described, it is an exothermic reaction and melted the oyamaru in two places. But just tiny bits. Didn't totally destroy the mold, but it's reusable so no real loss. Just have to remold it. Tried a second time on a larger mould (large postage stamp size), and it worked perfectly. This time I used the torch for a short time, then set the mold aside to stop it overheating. Then I did this several times before I popped the piece out of the mold. It was still slightly tacky on the 'face' of the piece so I used the torch again. Just a little trimming/sanding and it's perfect! As I said, it is exothermic, and does give off some chemical fumes. Use it in a place with plenty of ventilation, and you should be golden. 😉👍
At the very least as a home hobbyist using UV lights put on some decent sunglasses. You can cause permanent damage exposing your eyes to the UV or its reflections. If possible contain the item and torch into a box and reduce the amount of reflections. You should also be aware that the light will also degrade most things it shines on.
"I left this stuff on my desk for awhile" I could never. I'd be trying something new out right away lol might accidentally end up over using it if I had too much fun haha
I got vallejo clear water couple of weeks ago, if only I had waited... Will surely switch int he future, the higher viscosity, and the fact I don't have to wait 24h between one layer and the other is a huge selling point for people like me who's gonna sue it mainly for small water effects on miniatures. Having a small river on
Well, now I know what I need to do for a couple minis I have left unfinished due to not knowing exactly what would work well. Brain in a jars will be done up once I have the funds to get some of this stuff.
You can buy resin like this that is used for jewelry making and other such crafts. In my experience, if you are using a deeper mold that is opaque, the resin might not set properly because the light cant reach the deepest part of the mold. When casting small parts like the ones you showed, the resin cures easily.
Can you layer your castings? Like the door knocker and hinges first in their chosen colors then go over those while still in the mold to finish out the door.
Instead of using the UV flashlight, you could get a lamp for gel nails. You set the mold under and don't have to hold the light! I've used mine for coming shrink plastic pendants, and I like that I don't have to sit there holding a light on it.
I'm looking for something to cast the clear eyes from the1/6 Tsukuda Terror dog vinyl model to light them up and this looks like it would be the perfect stuff for that as the eyes aren't very large.
starts watching vid - sees creator explain he does have a working relationship with GSW on some level so wants to disclose that...... SUBSCRIBED! also - bloody excellent and informative vid Ive got some on the way with a natty torch too....looking forward to playing with it and much the wiser for this vid.
While it can be tiring for both me and for viewers to have an ethics disclaimer that explains whatever relationship I do or do not have with a company in every product video, it's very important for me to do so. I don't have to do it, I just like to.
Yes, this is probably a tiny bottle of a SLA 3D printer resin, or its UV cured glue (which you can find easily on amazon). Not all UV cure resins are that brittle, they range anywhere from spongey rubber to really hard and brittle and easily a dozen variations between the two. Also, save your battery (unless doing tiny parts)and get yourself a UV curing/disinfecting cabinet for doin several/larger parts. Also, make sure your mold material isnt dergraded by UV light (avoid latex entrirely). Lastly, open flame works better than heated air, for popping bubbles. Inks are translucent and in solution, while paints are ground pigments in suspension, so inks tend not to inhibit curing, but paints will.
Please provide a link to a comparable brand/specific uv resin that could be used for this purpose. There are 100s of types of uv resins. Just saying it's the same doesn't help. It's not the same as all of them. I would love to know of an EXACT product that performs the same that can be purchased in bulk for a better price. I fully believe they found and repackaged one that was perfect for this application, they've taken the trial and error and guesswork out of the equation for people and without someone recommending a perfect alternative, it is the best option. I don't want to order 20 jugs of different resins to find the right one, and I think most people without resin printers would feel the same.
Live Testing vs Prepared. I think if you do the live testing you will test things sooner and we will get more information that way. Sounds like you have a number of things you just want to try out but don't get around to it very quickly. This way you can do a quick test and see if it warrants more coverage in the future in a more prepared format or even a build.
Interesting video and I liked the format. The resin could be very useful for small modifications to minis, and even filling small gaps in models. I might have to get some. As you said not something I’d use everyday but a useful alternative in the arsenal
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I got let go from my job as an electrical apprentice 2 months ago and content like yours has helped me distract myself while I look for work. Thanks for the videos man
Sorry to hear that, hope you bounce back soon. Find another company to apprentice with, get your ticket and you're set.
I work in a dental lab and we have UV cure resin which I've experimented with for hobby applications. While that stuff works great for it's intended use in the lab, it's a bit lackluster for gaming projects, though this stuff you've reviewed looks excellent. I'll have to check it out! Also this hobby stuff costs about one fifth the price tag for the dental stuff...so win win!
Also I like the "live" format. It's fun to see you figuring it out as you go.
Real time testing is worth doing: if the product doesn't work in an application, we see it; if it's fiddly, we see how; and the range of variations/applications you try out on the spot are great for sparking creativity.
A good UV solution is actually the small UV light canopies made for curing finger nail polish. You can pick one up from Amazon for about $10-20 USD and just put your item under it and walk away rather than holding a flashlight over it. It's what I use to cure my resin 3D prints.
Uv resin has been pretty big in the crafting world in the last few years. One thing to keep in mind if making bigger casts with this stuff, the light needs to get to the resin in order to cure, using a clear mold becomes important, especially if working with inks to color it that would block the light. Jackie from Nerdycrafter uses it all the time, especially on her polymer clay sculptures. Plus she is a fellow Canadian 🇨🇦 she gives a lot of good tips.
you can use the uv lamps that were designed for curing nail gel
This really makes me wonder if I could just buy clear gel polish o_o
I wondered how similar to UV nail gel it is as well. It seems to function very similar.
Thankfully my girlfriend has a gel nail station with UV curing. I will make a comparison once I got my hands on the greenstuffworld produkt
@@luminariel3765 Gel polish shrinks when cured, just fyi!
I subbed to this channel recently and you've given me a hunger for foam that i never knew I had.
Don’t eat the foam
I definitely prefer seeing you try out products live, before you know 100% what you're doing. If you make any mistakes, it saves us from making them. :)
I use UV resin all of the time in crafting and I love it. Clear molds are key though. I also use a lamp for nails as they are stronger.
Greenstuff World has become my go-to for sculpting and basing needs. That was before I saw your video. I had some bad experiences with other companies, and Greenstuff World had everything I needed and could want, and delivered. It's been a good experience so far.
It sounds like the same stuff as what is used for doing gel nails. The stuff they use at nail salons. Not sure if it is but sure sounds like it.
Maybe you should do a comparison of the two and see if they work the same.
Yes a blacklight is a kind of UV light.
I will make a quick comparison with my girlfriend's uv-gel nail set once I got my hand on the greenstuffworld product
Thank you for another amazing video. You are a large part of the reason I no longer have cable. I’m in your debt.
Great video. You have inspired me to begin crafting. I am in the process of building a fortress for the D&D starter set.
You can probably use uv manicure lamp for those if the cast is small enough to fit.
Was just about to say the same thing. UV nail stations are cheap and you can put a bunch of small stuff in it and just leave it.
On another note, you can get resin from AliExpress cheap. We've been doing crafts with it for years and it's pretty good.
@@dreadknot69 got a link to what resin you buy through ali?
I use UV resin a lot. You can use it for much more than tiny pieces. Layering helps. It also seems to work better with alcohol inks rather than acrylic inks.
I've even casted 3 and 4" pyramids with it. Not just a solid pyramid, but layered with other embedded items. It took me about a half hour to complete one.
It seems to cure harder as time goes on, but doesn't get brittle.
I use a larger UV light than that one that I bought on Amazon.
I make creature eyes of many sizes, up to 50mm with UV resin, and have never had a problem with it.
I wish I could show you pictures of the many things I have created with just the UV resin!
"Boy it's late, better head to be-"
*BMC uploads a new video*
It is my job to make you tired for work in the morning
UV resin is quite common in crafting, mostly in jewlery stuff. If you use a clear mold, you can create pretty big and complex creations from it. NerdECrafter has quite a few vids on it and one of the best brands I know is Sophie and Toffie. They have molds, many tutorials and projects like making your own D&D dice set. Its a more "feminine" part of the craft community, but I think the applications are VERY useful in terrain type crafts too!
Thanks for this Demo/review, it’s enabled me to start on a project which I’d expected to take weeks. Now my project timescale is in 2-3 days.
i use uv resin for my other hobby tying flys for fly fishing in that application it is basically used as an instant varnish that drys in 20 seconds or so to speed up time rather than using regular varnish which takes about 15 minutes per coat.
If you want transparent and opaque color UV resin or even liquid or powder pigments for UV or epoxy resin Sophie and Toffee and Miniature Sweet carry some that I'm sure work the exact same too. I was worried that when the resin heats as it cures it would damage the plastics of miniatures but I'm glad you showed it doesn't seem to affect it at all.
I like the dirty approach to finding out the limits of a product. I mean, you can see that you take a measured approach, but it's still good to see the experimental process and genuine pitfalls. Great video and I especially like the drooling fangs!
pretty impressed with how quickly that door cured
Dentists use a similar material for fillings these days. Your castings seemed to work pretty well!
Dude I thought your show was amazing I think it is fantastic you have my subscription
I've had Green Stuff World pop up on my Facebook page for a little while now so had a look at their website. This stuff court my eye but wasn't sure about it so I want to thank you for trying it, it looks like it will be great for jazzing up bases and small waterscape. Thx again
UV resin has been popular among east Asian crafters (and those with adjacent interests) for awhile! It's often used for making charms and jewelry. I encourage you to check it out -- there's a surprising gap between the gaming miniatures and the crafting miniatures communities, even though both sides have a lot in common and a lot to share!
I just picked this uv stuff up myself. Glad to see it works well.
Love the live review format! Victories, failures, surprises, all in real time. Fantastic.
I'll be picking up some of this resin for adding details to minis as you dud with the spider. Wonderful idea!
I've been wanting to try this! Drying time is really compelling! A few minutes with this compared to doing water and drool effects with vallejo and waiting 24h. Good vid!
There are loads of UV craft resins out there, that is very expensive for a tiny bottle. Most nail lamps will work just fine, but on very thin pieces, lower power to start with will stop a lot of possible warping that can happen. (So will putting the item under a heavy object for a while after curing.
I'm way late to your channel. I'm an experienced crafter but I am still learning from you. Great channel! I really like the live test format.
I came late to the party this was put up two years ago but I'm glad I found your station it is awesome I mean no s*** you help improve my art
It's easier to mix the colours outside of the mold, you risk less bubbles that way. You can also mix acrylic paints and powdered pigments in to colour the resin. You do have to be careful with what molds you use though, the light has to be able to reach everything, otherwise you'll end up with a sticky mess. Definitely great for flat things like doors :)
I was thinking about this after and how two part molds are likely out of the question with this stuff.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial for the most part, unless you're able to make the mold from clear silicone. But I think you'd want more light than the torch for setting that, like maybe one of those UV nail lamps.
3D printing resins aren't all brittle. There's the standard stuff, pretty brittle. There's High-temp resin, VERY brittle. There's now flexible resin, not brittle in the least. And there's what I use in my printer, Tough resin which has PVC-like qualities. Printer resins can also be blended to create a wide variety of material properties. For instance, I have one mix I created that finishes very similar to resin aquarium decorations. 3D printer resins are very thick, and there's no bubbles in any of them unless you've just finished shaking the bottle. For prices, typical resins run about US$100 per liter. However, Siraya brand resins, which includes their absolutely great for tabletop models Blu resin, runs under US$50 per liter. This equates to being easily less than US$2 per normal size mini. TL;DR; Green Stuff World either being deceptive, or doesn't have a clue what they're talking about. That's not to say the product isn't a fine product, just that they're misleading in regard to other products.
^^^^^^ Can't agree more. Siraya Tenacious or Monocure Flex are the two most popular flexible resins. I've seen a video of a batman bust made with Tenacious literally being thrown across a room with no visible damage. Would be interesting to see it in a resin molding process.
Love the review, and love that you go outside the box with the application (water pooling etc), I willk definitely add this to the aresenal solely based on your review of the product. The format as well as the content as always, is on point. Rock on, man. PS - beard is looking lush.
I appreciate the honesty and disclaimer plus the product review.
I always do an ethics disclaimer when reviewing a product.
Thanks for the video, I knew the product and was wondering if it was fitting for my use of it, you helped me o nthat :)
2 questions :
- How much of the bottle do you think you have used for 1 door, roughly ?
- Do you think we could brush this stuff over the small details of a big mould, then use 2-part for the rest of it ? Could it be better for bubbles ?
Interesting questions :)
To partially answer the 2nd question, theoretically yes, you could. Resin tends to “eat” other resin, aka bonds and merges. So it wouldn’t be a bad idea to try it out on a mass produced mold/simple mold and see how it holds up. I would say it’s best used on smaller, but detailed parts like minis, furniture/details for buildings, etc. Stuff like tiles wouldn’t need this, for instance. Plus since it’s got a long use time, your brushes won’t become a matted clumped mess. Only partially over time.
Wow, what a great Reviewsday Video. This rasin is the one I dreamed of. :-D
Though I never molded something and poured with any rasin, I am always excited of the works of people who do. To me it always seems to be a very expensive work. Not only from costs, also from preparing steps and to many occasions for making mistakes. ;)
This UV rasin seems to make it all much easier.
GSW does a good job providing you with its stuff. Its worth of it for all of us. It results in a win-win-win situation. GSW gets a promotion, you get viewers and maybe patrons, we users can see this stuff in action and getting advice for free.
Thumbs up!
Thank you.
Most 3D printer resin is brittle but you can also get flexible resin which you can mix into the normal stuff, normally a 20 - 80 or 30 - 70 mix ;). The best thing about UV curing resin, if you have bubble holes you can just use more resin in the holes and cure it, most of us with resin 3D printers do that if we have issues or need to "glue" prints together.
I've been making little glow in the dark ghost with UV resin. I had the same reaction when I put it under the light. Shouldn't have been surprising, but it's still really cool!
Great video! I recently became a patreon because I'm happy to support your content. Keep it up!
Thank you so much!
Appreciate the on screen experimentation. I believe that as product usage is simplified, it has the potential to draw more people into the tabletop crafting hobby... which is a good thing. Thanks for sharing.
Nail technicians use gel nail polish (which is fairly cheap and comes in many colours) which cures under UV and becomes very hard. It's generally not too brittle because otherwise nails would chip. You can also get hands-free UV lamps that you would put your hand under. Combining the lamp with even this resin would be a good idea so you don't have to hold the lamp with your hand.
nice and quick for the last minute stuff you need sounds good thanks
I've seen this used for water bases and drip/drool effects but good to see you apply it to small part casting. Definitely something I'll be picking up with the code. Pleased to see you review it.
Amazing, I'm totally sold on this. Looking forward to trying it out!
greenstuffworld have some great stuff, have to try the uv resin, great video
I'd recommend against darker inks to avoid not curing right, and something like carbon black would almost certainly cause problems as one of it's features is blocking UV light to help protect against sun-damage. Since blacklights are mostly UV with a bit of extra purple (if you can see a "UV" light, it's this), and aluminum reflects most of the UV frequencies you'd need for this, you could rig up an awesome curing box out of a blacklight and aluminum foil or a soda can to make sure a darker or more opaque part cures fully. Just make sure there's not a heat problem.
As a side note, a smooth-edge or safety can opener turns soda cans into great crafting supplies as long as you don't run the cans through a dishwasher.
I got 2 bottles of this when it came out but I haven't had a chance/reason to use it yet but I also have a Photon and I will agree with them that the resin is super brittle. I don't think it would work very well in a silicone mold at all because it would likely break when you tried to demold. It might work ok in a more rigid mold similar to injection molding process though that isn't very easily done as a hobby thing. As an aside i also got a couple tubs of their powdered acrylic resin at the same time and have used the whole first tub and half the second one and I love it. Works really well and you can play around with the viscosity to aid in pouring at a slight cost of drying time. The powder does solve the problem of the shelf life of traditional resins though and wasn't terribly expensive.
I tie flies for fly fishing, and there is a very similar UV Resin used when tying. Worth trying it out!
Just started using UV resin as gap filler about a month ago. Works pretty good.
I didn’t even think of that. Brilliant!
I've bought UV Resin on Amazon used for jewelry and have been using it for the same, gap filler. I also used it on a beholder model to fill the eyes to give them a glassy, shiny eye like appearance. I got the resin for $11.99 for 60g on Amazon. Also, I have used an old paint bruch to paint this resin into small places like the rivets on the door you cast. Place in some resin and use the brush to go into each of the small details then fill the rest of the mold up. Has worked well doing it that way.
Good stuff. If you live in Japan, similar UV resin in clear and various pre-tinted tubes plus additive powders and stuff is available in little tubes at Daiso (Japanese dollar store).
I suggest that you fill the mold continuously without stopping and without lifting the tip from the resin already in the mold. Every time you stop and lift the tip, a tiny air bubble enters the end of the tip and when you start again, you push the bubble out into the resin in the mold. Its the same principle crafters use when putting resin or thick glazing liquid as dome finishes over art bases and other things.
I was looking for a cleaner option to modelling some smaller pieces so will give it a try...thanks for the heads up
Why do I have the urge to try lantern globes or maybe a stained glass window. Ah, the possibilities...
The venom looks sick, you could probably use this idea to create icicles
Live reactions are very appreciated in my opinion.
I think this is great, so I'm going to give it a try 😀 I already have a UV torch from doing UV /blacklight painting. Been meaning to try resin for a while so this is a great start.
This is great. I've been looking for something to cast headlight lenses and windscreens for my train conversions. Thanks for the review. All the best....Tom
i really like the journey format to this video, also your links are great, keep it up!!
Good format. A delight watching you videos as always👍🏻👍🏻
This might even work well with regular 2 part resin. If you have small details prone to air bubbles, use this stuff for them. Leave it in the mold after UV curing and then use normal resin to cover and fill the rest of the mold. It should stick/bond with the normal resin so you have a nice cast piece once done. This also reminds me of the 5 second glues that were on the market a few years back and worked using the same principal
Saw some great GSW vids showing UV resin used for spell and/or force shields. Used a ping pong ball for one, but I bet backside of spoons or similar would be great for prepping shield shapes. You can also build it up , pouring and uv'ing as it pours. Thinking you could make horns, spikes, and all kinds of need beastly bits with that technique. Exciting times!
Very interesting, I do like Greenstuff World products and it is an other example why. Thx Jeremy
This whole time, I thought this was just for water effects.. my brain has now exploded with this new info.
This stuff would be good for mounting tritium glow bead/vials, I can imagine a glowing bead on the end of a wizard staff.
Frickin amazing! Totally ordering this.
Have you thought about doing a review of Hirst Arts molds?
So lesson learned. I tried using some of my uv printer resin in a mold I had, and painting it on and hardening layers totally worked..... But, the mold was blue stuff, which is heat activated, so I trashed the mold.
When using UV resin be careful to only use it in molds that are chemically cured, not heat and melt.
Very good advice!
What brand of resin?
Would it still work though for smaller things like a speartip of a lord of the rings sbg model?
building on this, be careful if you're using this type of resin to make water pools on foam. The foam can melt slightly and release air bubbles. Make sure there's a good amount of layers of pva glue, paint, and any other substrate to help protect it. A simple painted foam surface will definitely melt
Very good video, looks very useful for extra little bits n bobs ☺
For anyone interested in playing with UV Resin long term: Invest in a usb/wall plug uv nail polish lamp! While the flashlights are nice, they go through batteries quick!
sorry this is the first time ive watched one of your vids so thanks. i like watching you working it out on camera (discovering ways to use/test it). i find it helpful to think of what projects i might use it for later. that spider idea was bad ass
You’ve got some videos to catch up on 😃
I love the format - live reviews, live "happy accidents" and live ideas are great. I love the water effect on the spider.
I have different resins for 3D printing, some are brittle but some are very tough - time to try this out before buying the GWS stuff.
One thing to check is if this resin will become yellow - some clear resin I have may become very yellow depending of the UV wavelength (and yes - "black light" is UV)
UV Resin also works with mica powders, and acrylic paints (small drops for transparent colors).
Great video. I think I could use that.
Get a vibrating motor out of an old phone. Make a platform on springs from bic pens. Attach the motor. Power with USB Now you have a vibrating table for the bubbles. The UV nail drying hoods work fairly well.
Green stuff world released a video just a few days ago where they used it to 'sink' haunted tree stumps on miniature bases. They had bubbles, but the also said they could be potentially removed using heat.
Will have to pick up some now for sure. 😉
So I finally got some today. Tried it in a small mould made from oyamaru first (small postage stamp size), and while it worked as described, it is an exothermic reaction and melted the oyamaru in two places. But just tiny bits. Didn't totally destroy the mold, but it's reusable so no real loss. Just have to remold it.
Tried a second time on a larger mould (large postage stamp size), and it worked perfectly. This time I used the torch for a short time, then set the mold aside to stop it overheating. Then I did this several times before I popped the piece out of the mold. It was still slightly tacky on the 'face' of the piece so I used the torch again. Just a little trimming/sanding and it's perfect!
As I said, it is exothermic, and does give off some chemical fumes. Use it in a place with plenty of ventilation, and you should be golden.
😉👍
Wow Jeremy, I may have to get some of that in the future. Thanks for your reviews!
Should look at some of the fishing manufacturers they do different thicknesses of uv resin the thick ones might be better for doing icicles etc.
I likes the live testing. We get to see the real results.
At the very least as a home hobbyist using UV lights put on some decent sunglasses. You can cause permanent damage exposing your eyes to the UV or its reflections. If possible contain the item and torch into a box and reduce the amount of reflections. You should also be aware that the light will also degrade most things it shines on.
"I left this stuff on my desk for awhile"
I could never. I'd be trying something new out right away lol
might accidentally end up over using it if I had too much fun haha
Neat product. I will have to get myself a bottle. It look like to be mess free
One UA-camr that I follow drops the UV resin on Cricut card stock cutouts to both reinforce strength, add texture and to use for a gloss coat.
I got vallejo clear water couple of weeks ago, if only I had waited... Will surely switch int he future, the higher viscosity, and the fact I don't have to wait 24h between one layer and the other is a huge selling point for people like me who's gonna sue it mainly for small water effects on miniatures. Having a small river on
Well, now I know what I need to do for a couple minis I have left unfinished due to not knowing exactly what would work well. Brain in a jars will be done up once I have the funds to get some of this stuff.
this was cool! and yes i liked the format. also wish you had painted the finished products but no biggie
You can buy resin like this that is used for jewelry making and other such crafts. In my experience, if you are using a deeper mold that is opaque, the resin might not set properly because the light cant reach the deepest part of the mold. When casting small parts like the ones you showed, the resin cures easily.
As a thought it may of helped too hit those pieces with a quick ink wash just too show off the detail you got out of the molds with the clear resin.
Can you layer your castings? Like the door knocker and hinges first in their chosen colors then go over those while still in the mold to finish out the door.
Instead of using the UV flashlight, you could get a lamp for gel nails. You set the mold under and don't have to hold the light! I've used mine for coming shrink plastic pendants, and I like that I don't have to sit there holding a light on it.
...and clearly I should have checked the comments before adding my two cents! Oh well, it's still a good idea. 😁
I'm looking for something to cast the clear eyes from the1/6 Tsukuda Terror dog vinyl model to light them up and this looks like it would be the perfect stuff for that as the eyes aren't very large.
starts watching vid - sees creator explain he does have a working relationship with GSW on some level so wants to disclose that...... SUBSCRIBED!
also - bloody excellent and informative vid
Ive got some on the way with a natty torch too....looking forward to playing with it and much the wiser for this vid.
While it can be tiring for both me and for viewers to have an ethics disclaimer that explains whatever relationship I do or do not have with a company in every product video, it's very important for me to do so. I don't have to do it, I just like to.
Yes, this is probably a tiny bottle of a SLA 3D printer resin, or its UV cured glue (which you can find easily on amazon). Not all UV cure resins are that brittle, they range anywhere from spongey rubber to really hard and brittle and easily a dozen variations between the two. Also, save your battery (unless doing tiny parts)and get yourself a UV curing/disinfecting cabinet for doin several/larger parts. Also, make sure your mold material isnt dergraded by UV light (avoid latex entrirely). Lastly, open flame works better than heated air, for popping bubbles. Inks are translucent and in solution, while paints are ground pigments in suspension, so inks tend not to inhibit curing, but paints will.
Please provide a link to a comparable brand/specific uv resin that could be used for this purpose. There are 100s of types of uv resins. Just saying it's the same doesn't help. It's not the same as all of them. I would love to know of an EXACT product that performs the same that can be purchased in bulk for a better price. I fully believe they found and repackaged one that was perfect for this application, they've taken the trial and error and guesswork out of the equation for people and without someone recommending a perfect alternative, it is the best option. I don't want to order 20 jugs of different resins to find the right one, and I think most people without resin printers would feel the same.
How well do various paints stick to it? Does it need any special cleaning or prep to hold paint?
Live Testing vs Prepared. I think if you do the live testing you will test things sooner and we will get more information that way. Sounds like you have a number of things you just want to try out but don't get around to it very quickly. This way you can do a quick test and see if it warrants more coverage in the future in a more prepared format or even a build.
I really wish you'd have shown the door painted up :(
Interesting video and I liked the format. The resin could be very useful for small modifications to minis, and even filling small gaps in models. I might have to get some. As you said not something I’d use everyday but a useful alternative in the arsenal
I like how quickly it cures. Curious if you left anything under the light for a couple minutes to see if the stuff gets more brittle over time.
That looks like it would work for filling in the window panes for Hirst Arts cast windows.