This is the best tutorial (by far) to service my Reba Dual Air forks that I have seen. Most videos just show you how to change the oil and leave the rest as a mystery. You have made it easy to understand by taking it all to bits and reassembling without any special tools. I now have the confidence to do this myself. Thank you for making this video and sharing your knowledge.
i just picked up a reba that is completely locked up, hopefully ill get it sliding again, i let air out the bbottom, but not the top... it has a lockout mechanism on it, im hoping the lockout got stuck. ill never need a lockout, so my plan is tear down, removal of unecessary things , and rebuild, hopefully nothing is shredded. thanks for the great vid! this is my first reba rebuild, ive done many shocks over the years, i always go to youtube to reference model specs!😊
Thank you so much for posting this video and parts list! I bought this shock new back in 2005 for a 29er mountain bike I was building. I paired it with a Surly, Karate Monkey hardtail frame.. It's just been sitting on a shelf gathering dust for the last 12 years. Last summer I decided to build up the Karate Monkey frame with the Reba shock as an Ebike for commuting to work. I wanted to service the shock before I finished building the bike but couldn't figure out where to get replacement parts. Your video solved all these problems. I'll be servicing them this weekend. Thanks again!
@@buckbikespent4588 Same situation. Thanks. FYI, the Dual Air REBA SL spacers give you the option of adjusting travel from 80-100-120MM depending on the number that you kept in the shock.
That was a really extremely interesting and same time fun to watch video doing this servicing. Great job, really. Knowing what is inside my reba makes me thinking of doing this servicing myself, I think mine would need that, too. Thanks a lot for that video!
Thanks, one of the few sites that does entire internals. I don't think I have to make sure the dampener is open because it's a remote, so spring loaded will close it. You may want to mention about replacing Crush Washers just to be completely accurate
Good job!! But i think that in dual Air forks is better to start inflating negative camera and then the positive. Another recomendación is to put solidGrease in the seals before mounting again the fork.
@@buckbikespent4588 Thanks. I found some that seemed right, but the lock-out doesn't work any more. Either I've misassembled it (likely), or I have some wrong parts. The damping seems to work, though.
My rockshox 30 silvr tk fork has some issue in the rebound damping shaft. The allen key of the rebound knob is not getting fully in the shaft. So, turning the knob doesnot makes any clicking sound but, it just rotates smooth with no rebound adjustment. Do I have to replace the rebound damping shaft or is there any solution to fix it?
Mine is doing the same, the rebound is fragile and if you turn it too much it can break and get stuck. I haven't looked into it yet but most probably you will need a new shaft.
You mean to remove that cylindrical approx. 20mm black spacer on the top on the shaft? Ok, now I can see it at 7:53 easy to remove by 2 half pieces and that's all?
Hi, stanchions are 32mm. I bought a kit off eBay but it was actually the wrong one for these forks as they have a rubber oil seal. Basically you need 2 dust seals, 2 rubber oil seals and 2 foam rings. The correct kit will have all these. The foam rings will be yellow or if not yellow they need to be thin as I cut the ones I got in half. Hope that helps!
Best guess will be to buy a whole fork second hand, these are pretty old and even if you are able to get the parts, they will be more expensive than a second hand fork.
Hey buck! I’m about the rebuild my rockshox Reba dual air from 2005 aswell! I saw the comment naming the sram part numbers but I am having trouble finding the correct parts for sale. Is there a website you recommend? Also what are some other tips you have for me? Thanks a ton!
Hey, I bought a kit off eBay but it was actually the wrong one for these forks as they have a rubber oil seal. Basically you need 2 dust seals, 2 rubber oil seals and 2 foam rings. The correct kit will have all these. The foam rings will be yellow or if not yellow they need to be thin as I cut the ones I got in half. The stanchions are 32mm. Also be prepared with rubber gloves and paper towels. Hope that helps!
@@buckbikespent4588 If you look at the 2010 spare parts catalog, it notes that earlier shocks from the 2005-2008 range had oil seals but later ones did not. It says that you can use either kit, and that oil seals might be useful in wetter conditions. The kit without oil seals includes larger foam rings to take up that space. Cutting them is a good compromise if you want to reuse the old oil seals, or you could just remove the oil seals to match the later shocks.
These are 32mm stanchions but the seals are specific to the fork as they have different shapes between models. You can try getting a generic 32mm one and give it a go.
Hey, I bought a kit off eBay but it was actually the wrong one for these forks as they have a rubber oil seal. Basically you need 2 dust seals, 2 rubber oil seals and 2 foam rings. The correct kit will have all these. The foam rings will be yellow or if not yellow they need to be thin as I cut the ones I got in half. The stanchions are 32mm. Hope that helps!
@@buckbikespent4588 I think these forks originally came with the thick white foam and no rubber oil seals. So your kit was probably correct in that sense, but maybe the fork had been serviced before and updated design with the yellow thin foam and rubber oil seal had been fitted..? At least my never-before-serviced 2008 Reba SL had the thick foam version in it. I replaced it with the oil seal version. Anyway, thanks for the video, it helped a lot!
@@JussiKoukku No, the 2005 probably came with oil seals. The 2010 spare parts catalog noted that earlier shocks in the 2005-2008 Reba lineup had oil seals, later ones did not, and that you can use either kit to add or remove them.
Also, PlanetCyclery has 2005-2008 "Athena White" replacement rim/disc lowers for a bargain price, $18, that includes the oil seals along with the dust seals preinstalled. The picture on the site suggests disc-only, but they are actually a World Cup edition with rim brake-posts too, and include painted 'decals'. The paint is beautifully glossy and has an almost pearlescent quality under a strong light.
When you filled up the lowers, did you say 15ml on one side and 50ml on the other or 15ml on both? Reason I asked is because if you meant 15ml on both, it appears that you put more in the last leg than you did in the first. ua-cam.com/video/-IZGppv3I9g/v-deo.html My last question would be regarding the bolts for the lowers. I was under the impression that you need to replace the crush washers that are made of some sort of polymer on both whenever you disassemble them at the very least on the damper side since your fork is dual air. They are suppose to slightly crush when you tighten the bolts to spec and provide a tight seal otherwise, the bolts alone will not suffice and they will leak slowly in time. The other step you need to take is to cycle the fork a few times after putting everything together. First make sure your rebound is all the way to the fastest setting, the open the motion control valve all the way then fill both neg and pos air chambers. Get a piece of rag and fold it a few times and put it on the floor and put both dropouts on top of it to prevent it from slipping, then prop or lean the fork between your legs and pump it a few times. This will make the air and fluids cycle inside. Then turn the rebound to the slowest setting and push it down and release a few times to see if it works. Also, adjust the motion control knob to see if the lockout works.
That is a very good point, I'm not able to find the syringe right now but I think it was a 10ml one so I needed to do it twice per leg, 10ml+5ml. Regarding the crush washers, generally you are correct. If you can source the crush washers, maybe change them. However, looking back on this I don't think there were any crush washers in the first place. Additionally, there are currently no leaks, but I noticed a small leak from the compression damper top cap which is common for these that I might address in a future video or maybe swap the forks after a bit of riding.
This is the best tutorial (by far) to service my Reba Dual Air forks that I have seen. Most videos just show you how to change the oil and leave the rest as a mystery. You have made it easy to understand by taking it all to bits and reassembling without any special tools. I now have the confidence to do this myself. Thank you for making this video and sharing your knowledge.
Glad it helped!
@@buckbikespent4588 I serviced the forks with no problems, they now work properly. Thanks again.
Agree. The best video I have come across. I wasn’t sure if the wavy washer was below or above the flat washer but dude. You made it clear. Thank you
Thank you, thank you!! I soooooo appreciate you taking the time to put together the detailed fork rebuild video. Great job recording and editing!!!
i just picked up a reba that is completely locked up, hopefully ill get it sliding again, i let air out the bbottom, but not the top... it has a lockout mechanism on it, im hoping the lockout got stuck. ill never need a lockout, so my plan is tear down, removal of unecessary things , and rebuild, hopefully nothing is shredded. thanks for the great vid! this is my first reba rebuild, ive done many shocks over the years, i always go to youtube to reference model specs!😊
I doubt it is a lockout problem especially if you are able to twist it but let me know how it goes!
Best video I have come across. Picked up a used bike with this shock and man what a help this video was. Thank you
Thank you for doing this video. I must have watched parts of it two dozen times while rebuilding my fork!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for posting this video and parts list! I bought this shock new back in 2005 for a 29er mountain bike I was building. I paired it with a Surly, Karate Monkey hardtail frame.. It's just been sitting on a shelf gathering dust for the last 12 years. Last summer I decided to build up the Karate Monkey frame with the Reba shock as an Ebike for commuting to work. I wanted to service the shock before I finished building the bike but couldn't figure out where to get replacement parts. Your video solved all these problems. I'll be servicing them this weekend. Thanks again!
This sounds like a great project! Let me know how it goes! :)
Thanks for posting. Perfect timing. I'm just sourcing the service parts for my Rockshox Reba SL which I'm going to work through myself.
Glad I could help! Just make sure your seal kit includes the black rubber seal.
@@buckbikespent4588 Same situation. Thanks.
FYI, the Dual Air REBA SL spacers give you the option of adjusting travel from 80-100-120MM depending on the number that you kept in the shock.
Well done! Thank you for taking the time to do this video...it really helped!
Great to hear!
That was a really extremely interesting and same time fun to watch video doing this servicing.
Great job, really.
Knowing what is inside my reba makes me thinking of doing this servicing myself, I think mine would need that, too.
Thanks a lot for that video!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
BEST TUTORIAL on YT for this fork! Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Thanks, one of the few sites that does entire internals. I don't think I have to make sure the dampener is open because it's a remote, so spring loaded will close it. You may want to mention about replacing Crush Washers just to be completely accurate
Good tip! Remote triggered lockout is usually open by default.
Good job!! But i think that in dual Air forks is better to start inflating negative camera and then the positive. Another recomendación is to put solidGrease in the seals before mounting again the fork.
Very well explained ! Even a novice can do it now. Thank You
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid man! Keep it up! It's always fun and interesting to see the internals of bike component
Glad you enjoyed it!
Buen trabajo, se veía muy bien esa suspensión.
Exacly what i needed
Fantastic video. Thanks!
Thank You Very Much, Got This Same Fork, Great Info/Data, Subscribed!!!
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for this great and detailed video. Just keep on :-)
The only addition: for the upper leg on the damper side 5 wt oil should be used.
Great point! Thanks!
I'm hoping this all applies the same for my old RS Revelation Dual Air forks.
Not sure, most probably oil volumes will be different
@@buckbikespent4588 Good point. Will dig for a manual. Thanks.
Nice and clear tutorial. Thanks.
Do you know where I can find a spare parts kit for those shocks? rockshox don't list the spare parts.
I got them from ebay but these are pretty old so you might not be able to find the exact parts.
@@buckbikespent4588 Thanks. I found some that seemed right, but the lock-out doesn't work any more. Either I've misassembled it (likely), or I have some wrong parts. The damping seems to work, though.
thx,very helpfull.Top👍👍👍👍
My rockshox 30 silvr tk fork has some issue in the rebound damping shaft. The allen key of the rebound knob is not getting fully in the shaft. So, turning the knob doesnot makes any clicking sound but, it just rotates smooth with no rebound adjustment. Do I have to replace the rebound damping shaft or is there any solution to fix it?
Mine is doing the same, the rebound is fragile and if you turn it too much it can break and get stuck. I haven't looked into it yet but most probably you will need a new shaft.
Great tutorial! I did it myself but there is problem with air chamber suck down... Perhaps due to too much oil or greese?
Thank you! What do you mean air chamber is suck down? Might have something to do with the black spacer I removed to increase the travel on my fork.
Hi, which year is this reba? I have white reba dual air sl. Cant decode year of producton.
My best guess is 2005, I could not figure it out from the serial number.
Im gonna try this to my rs pike 454 uturn air. They have the same internals. Just a question, so for the upper park you used 5w and 15w on the lowers?
Yes, you are correct, 5w in the uppers and 15w in the lowers.
How you can convert from 80mm to 100mm travel? Thank you.
There must be two black spacers on the air spring, you will have to remove one of them. You can see mine had one at 5:29
You mean to remove that cylindrical approx. 20mm black spacer on the top on the shaft? Ok, now I can see it at 7:53 easy to remove by 2 half pieces and that's all?
Hi! Are the stanchions 32mm in diameter? What's the part number of the dust seal and foam ring kit you used?
Hi, stanchions are 32mm. I bought a kit off eBay but it was actually the wrong one for these forks as they have a rubber oil seal. Basically you need 2 dust seals, 2 rubber oil seals and 2 foam rings. The correct kit will have all these. The foam rings will be yellow or if not yellow they need to be thin as I cut the ones I got in half. Hope that helps!
This is the same procedure for a 2008 reba sl?
Im about to do a 2008 and yes the procedure is the same. Just check at the sram website for oil type and volumes and which tools and parts you’ll need
Alright, thanks! :)
You are awesome
I'm needing a new air spring for mine. Where can I buy that?
Best guess will be to buy a whole fork second hand, these are pretty old and even if you are able to get the parts, they will be more expensive than a second hand fork.
Worth it
Hey buck! I’m about the rebuild my rockshox Reba dual air from 2005 aswell! I saw the comment naming the sram part numbers but I am having trouble finding the correct parts for sale. Is there a website you recommend? Also what are some other tips you have for me? Thanks a ton!
Hey, I bought a kit off eBay but it was actually the wrong one for these forks as they have a rubber oil seal. Basically you need 2 dust seals, 2 rubber oil seals and 2 foam rings. The correct kit will have all these. The foam rings will be yellow or if not yellow they need to be thin as I cut the ones I got in half. The stanchions are 32mm. Also be prepared with rubber gloves and paper towels. Hope that helps!
@@buckbikespent4588 it does! thanks!
@@buckbikespent4588 If you look at the 2010 spare parts catalog, it notes that earlier shocks from the 2005-2008 range had oil seals but later ones did not. It says that you can use either kit, and that oil seals might be useful in wetter conditions. The kit without oil seals includes larger foam rings to take up that space. Cutting them is a good compromise if you want to reuse the old oil seals, or you could just remove the oil seals to match the later shocks.
@@genixia Thank you for this very interesting information. Do you by any chance have a link to this catalog?
Do you have a full rebuild part numbers?
No, sorry.
wich oil you used for rebuild can i use 10w fork oil fom motorcycle in my rock shox judy 1999 hidracoil
I used SVI 15w and 5w suspension fluid in my reba.
Fork seal is what size bro will appreciate drop In comments
These are 32mm stanchions but the seals are specific to the fork as they have different shapes between models. You can try getting a generic 32mm one and give it a go.
Anyone has a link for the right service kit
Hey, I bought a kit off eBay but it was actually the wrong one for these forks as they have a rubber oil seal. Basically you need 2 dust seals, 2 rubber oil seals and 2 foam rings. The correct kit will have all these. The foam rings will be yellow or if not yellow they need to be thin as I cut the ones I got in half. The stanchions are 32mm. Hope that helps!
@@buckbikespent4588 I think these forks originally came with the thick white foam and no rubber oil seals. So your kit was probably correct in that sense, but maybe the fork had been serviced before and updated design with the yellow thin foam and rubber oil seal had been fitted..? At least my never-before-serviced 2008 Reba SL had the thick foam version in it. I replaced it with the oil seal version. Anyway, thanks for the video, it helped a lot!
@@JussiKoukku No, the 2005 probably came with oil seals. The 2010 spare parts catalog noted that earlier shocks in the 2005-2008 Reba lineup had oil seals, later ones did not, and that you can use either kit to add or remove them.
Also, PlanetCyclery has 2005-2008 "Athena White" replacement rim/disc lowers for a bargain price, $18, that includes the oil seals along with the dust seals preinstalled. The picture on the site suggests disc-only, but they are actually a World Cup edition with rim brake-posts too, and include painted 'decals'. The paint is beautifully glossy and has an almost pearlescent quality under a strong light.
Какой прекрасный русский акцент )
Close, I'm from eastern Europe.
When you filled up the lowers, did you say 15ml on one side and 50ml on the other or 15ml on both? Reason I asked is because if you meant 15ml on both, it appears that you put more in the last leg than you did in the first. ua-cam.com/video/-IZGppv3I9g/v-deo.html
My last question would be regarding the bolts for the lowers. I was under the impression that you need to replace the crush washers that are made of some sort of polymer on both whenever you disassemble them at the very least on the damper side since your fork is dual air. They are suppose to slightly crush when you tighten the bolts to spec and provide a tight seal otherwise, the bolts alone will not suffice and they will leak slowly in time.
The other step you need to take is to cycle the fork a few times after putting everything together. First make sure your rebound is all the way to the fastest setting, the open the motion control valve all the way then fill both neg and pos air chambers. Get a piece of rag and fold it a few times and put it on the floor and put both dropouts on top of it to prevent it from slipping, then prop or lean the fork between your legs and pump it a few times. This will make the air and fluids cycle inside. Then turn the rebound to the slowest setting and push it down and release a few times to see if it works. Also, adjust the motion control knob to see if the lockout works.
That is a very good point, I'm not able to find the syringe right now but I think it was a 10ml one so I needed to do it twice per leg, 10ml+5ml.
Regarding the crush washers, generally you are correct. If you can source the crush washers, maybe change them. However, looking back on this I don't think there were any crush washers in the first place. Additionally, there are currently no leaks, but I noticed a small leak from the compression damper top cap which is common for these that I might address in a future video or maybe swap the forks after a bit of riding.
super
You have instagram, facebook etc where i can massege you i have some Questions
Feel free to ask your questions here :) I still have not created an Instagram.
@@buckbikespent4588 Does it matter if I don't use vaseline for the o rings, but instead lubricate them with oil, like you did in the video?