Nice idea. If I ever get my hands on a slow turning wheel like that I'll make one. The main difference I'd make is skiving the join in the leather so there's an overlap and also cut the leather at 45° to get rid of the single ridge, to make a smoother transition.
I'd go with contact glue and shaving both ends for a better match up and level the joint. Good project and I'm looking for slowly turning wheels for myself one. Great volume and instructions. I'm checking about which side of leather side go on top (thinking the polish side up. Thanks 👍
NUMan14 Thanks for the comment. Yes it works, however after sharpening the chisels on my stones, what I found is that I don't need anything but very light pressure and really only a revolution or two of contact against the leather after I put on a bit of the compound. So maybe having the wheel is a bit overkill unless I have a lot of things I need to put a final edge on at the same time.
+AKBuilder762 Having a small wheel for stropping makes it difficult to maintain a perfect angle against the bevel without undoing the work I've done previously on sharpening, especially when the direction of rotation is now on it's side for holding plane irons and chisels. That's why I went for a larger wheel on a dedicated machine. Also, I like the extra surface area afforded by the larger wheel. I don't think I spent any money on this.. it was all scrap laying around except for the leather.
+kekocucu u Yep, I'd say it almost polishes a little too quickly. ua-cam.com/video/fa9UNS508KI/v-deo.html I did make a flat leather strop that I glued down to a board out of one of my old belts... it is about 30" long. I think that it gives me a little bit more control while holding the chisels over the strop wheel. I'm still experimenting with the best methods. I have a horizontal wet sharpening machine that runs waay to fast. I'm hoping to figure out how to slow down the motor a bit so it doesn't fling water all over me. :) thanks for your interest!
Ha ha ha thats almost 8 1/2 minutes of my life I will never get back same old story use twenty words where two will do and then dont show the result waste of time
+martin lowe Is that what you tell all the girls? ;) Anyway, actually, I'd appreciate constructive criticism, but whining doesn't really help me make better videos.
@@stoppedsnoring Martin was maybe a bit harsh in the manner of his criticism, but it was none the less valid. 1) You made no effort to keep the shaft hole square to the wheel. With such a large diameter and mass, the out of balance vibration stood to be significant. 2) using your finger as a spindle when rotating the wheel on the sander. OK if you are trying hard for a Darwin award. Not so good if you want to keep your finger. I've known UA-cam to take down videos for safety reasons for significantly less bad practice. 3) what sort of glue did you use to attach the leather to the wheel. It looked like wood glue. Contact adhesive would have been better. We didn't see the other side of the leather, but from what you said, it sounded like the smoother side was inward which would give a better bond, so long as you sanded off any bobbles. 4) It would have been better to shave a shallow chamfer to the leading edge of the leather so you could overlap the trailing end. Less chance of tearing the leading edge with use. Considering you'd be holding a sharp edge to the wheel if this happened, you really don't want a leather strap whipping past your hand and maybe pulling it into the wheel.
Replying to my own comment, the leather strop I made eventually came unstuck after using contact adhesive. Second time round I made shallow cuts in the MDF wheel and use epoxy glue, and it looks like that is never coming off. I gets used on a daily basis by half a dozen people, and is all we use to freshen up the wood lathe chisels. The motor is 1740rpm, which is maybe a bit fast. I turned the leather true on the metal lathe, so it has zero vibration. A _really_ useful tool to have in a wood shop.
+roy childs Roy, do you mean rough up the ends where the joint is? I did cut at a bevel so it would tend to lay down smoothly, but if you could explain how to "scarf" it for a better result, I'm all ears!
My time is worth the $35 to order a 6" leather grinder wheel VS spending 1 - 2 - 3 hours for this.... If your gonna do it your self, at least make a monster 24" - 36" low rpm mid-evil times one....
Sorry, should have thought about that when posting the original. I put up a separate video for that and prob should have kept them together! ua-cam.com/video/fa9UNS508KI/v-deo.html
Big money, meager planning. If you must make a leather covered wooden strop whee, the joint is LAPPED OVER, then stretched, then cut DIAGONALLY, then TIED with hemp NOT stapled... With so much money why did you not just buy a real leather strop wheel????????????????
Nice idea. If I ever get my hands on a slow turning wheel like that I'll make one. The main difference I'd make is skiving the join in the leather so there's an overlap and also cut the leather at 45° to get rid of the single ridge, to make a smoother transition.
Good call. thanks for the comment!
I'd go with contact glue and shaving both ends for a better match up and level the joint.
Good project and I'm looking for slowly turning wheels for myself one.
Great volume and instructions.
I'm checking about which side of leather side go on top (thinking the polish side up.
Thanks 👍
Fantastics
good that ,thanks
Helpful video! So did the wheel work?
NUMan14 Thanks for the comment. Yes it works, however after sharpening the chisels on my stones, what I found is that I don't need anything but very light pressure and really only a revolution or two of contact against the leather after I put on a bit of the compound. So maybe having the wheel is a bit overkill unless I have a lot of things I need to put a final edge on at the same time.
are you actually blocking license plates on the floor?
Just get leather scrap and make a 3" wheel using a bolt, nut and washers and mount it in a drill press. Costs about $12.
+AKBuilder762
Having a small wheel for stropping makes it difficult to maintain a perfect angle against the bevel without undoing the work I've done previously on sharpening, especially when the direction of rotation is now on it's side for holding plane irons and chisels. That's why I went for a larger wheel on a dedicated machine. Also, I like the extra surface area afforded by the larger wheel. I don't think I spent any money on this.. it was all scrap laying around except for the leather.
I just did one for 6 :)
I might have made the seam a scarf (angled cut)
nice job though
use polishing compound or less agressive abrasive. it will take more turns.
Thanks for the tip!
Why did you decide to make it so big?
Should work well for knives.
Skive the ends of the belt so you won't have that bump.
What's with all the huge hammer marks on the side of that wheel? Also, how did the edges of the wheel all get caved in?
The neaderthal was in need of some sort of gear puller... ;)
I didn't see it in action, did it work?
+kekocucu u Yep, I'd say it almost polishes a little too quickly. ua-cam.com/video/fa9UNS508KI/v-deo.html
I did make a flat leather strop that I glued down to a board out of one of my old belts... it is about 30" long. I think that it gives me a little bit more control while holding the chisels over the strop wheel. I'm still experimenting with the best methods. I have a horizontal wet sharpening machine that runs waay to fast. I'm hoping to figure out how to slow down the motor a bit so it doesn't fling water all over me. :) thanks for your interest!
@@stoppedsnoring Adjustable mud flap. That way you can move it as the wheel gets smaller.
Really did not show how good it worked
Yeah, sorry. I had posted a short video after this one showing it working. Probably should have just tacked it on the end of this video though.
The video is over before we see if it works?
Yeah, sorry about that, I uploaded another video using it and probably should have done it together.
Ha ha ha thats almost 8 1/2 minutes of my life I will never get back same old story use twenty words where two will do and then dont show the result waste of time
+martin lowe Is that what you tell all the girls? ;)
Anyway, actually, I'd appreciate constructive criticism, but whining doesn't really help me make better videos.
+stoppedsnoring easy peasy lets see it in action....thats the idea surely.
+martin lowe Here you go ~ ua-cam.com/video/fa9UNS508KI/v-deo.html
@@stoppedsnoring Martin was maybe a bit harsh in the manner of his criticism, but it was none the less valid. 1) You made no effort to keep the shaft hole square to the wheel. With such a large diameter and mass, the out of balance vibration stood to be significant. 2) using your finger as a spindle when rotating the wheel on the sander. OK if you are trying hard for a Darwin award. Not so good if you want to keep your finger. I've known UA-cam to take down videos for safety reasons for significantly less bad practice. 3) what sort of glue did you use to attach the leather to the wheel. It looked like wood glue. Contact adhesive would have been better. We didn't see the other side of the leather, but from what you said, it sounded like the smoother side was inward which would give a better bond, so long as you sanded off any bobbles. 4) It would have been better to shave a shallow chamfer to the leading edge of the leather so you could overlap the trailing end. Less chance of tearing the leading edge with use. Considering you'd be holding a sharp edge to the wheel if this happened, you really don't want a leather strap whipping past your hand and maybe pulling it into the wheel.
Replying to my own comment, the leather strop I made eventually came unstuck after using contact adhesive. Second time round I made shallow cuts in the MDF wheel and use epoxy glue, and it looks like that is never coming off. I gets used on a daily basis by half a dozen people, and is all we use to freshen up the wood lathe chisels. The motor is 1740rpm, which is maybe a bit fast. I turned the leather true on the metal lathe, so it has zero vibration. A _really_ useful tool to have in a wood shop.
What would you charge me to make me one?
Sorry. I wish I had the time to make another, but having trouble getting time off work to take on all my other projects lined up around here! :)
Didn't scarf the ends 1st, did you?
+roy childs Roy, do you mean rough up the ends where the joint is? I did cut at a bevel so it would tend to lay down smoothly, but if you could explain how to "scarf" it for a better result, I'm all ears!
stoppedsnoring I'm
My time is worth the $35 to order a 6" leather grinder wheel VS spending 1 - 2 - 3 hours for this.... If your gonna do it your self, at least make a monster 24" - 36" low rpm mid-evil times one....
.
You shouldn´t release tutorial videos if this is the quality you can deliver.
Boo you could of given use a demo bro
Yeah, sorry I did demo in a later video..
Why didn't you show it working or didn't it work 👎👎👎👎
Sorry, should have thought about that when posting the original. I put up a separate video for that and prob should have kept them together!
ua-cam.com/video/fa9UNS508KI/v-deo.html
Big money, meager planning. If you must make a leather covered wooden strop whee, the joint is LAPPED OVER, then stretched, then cut DIAGONALLY, then TIED with hemp NOT stapled... With so much money why did you not just buy a real leather strop wheel????????????????