I just watched another video called hand hewing from tree to beam that shows a guy named Dan Dustin use a broad ax as he skilfully produces a beam for Canterbury Shaker Village (looks like around 1980). In his opinion the flat on the broad ax should be out, and his explanation makes a lot of sense to me, as a woodworker. Not my area of expertise but I'm just pointing out that anyone considering buying or doing work with a broad axe should watch that other video.
Mark Lackley came here from same video. Dan’s explanation doesn’t make sense to me when thinking about the broad axe head design, nor the design of an offset handle. When you look at very old axes with offsets, the handles are offset away from the flat side. This means the user would have the flat side to the log.
@1978ajax Dan Dustin explains that the reason for the flat side is to effectively thin the blade. Watch the video. It’s the best hewing tutorial I’ve ever seen.
I was also curious about using a broad axe bevel in towards the log. It does make sense when you consider a draw knife works best with the bevel side against the log. It dosent cut to deep with the bezel against the work.
this depends on the work you are doing. these axes in this video are "carpentry" axes.. Dan is doing something else.. Hewing a beam is not the same as facing a door or finishing a board.. different tools for different work.. often the axes for beam hewing have handles so long that you can stand upright on the log and the axe goes by the side of the log, remember you have to last the day.. double-bevel or bevel side in makes the axe skip out from the log and keep the swing, then you can get back the energy from the return swing and just give it a tiny bit more to have another go.. just look at the oldest men at work.. steady they go, no rush and the less effort put in the longer they can go on.
Have to share a story from my father a carpenter from a long line of house mechanics. He was sent out to hang a new door for an officer. It was an expensive special order door and it was way to big for the opening. So my dad pulled the broad ax from his tool chest and started reducing it The officer went screaming to the foreman of the carpenter shop "That crazy carpenter is copping up my expensive door with an ax." The foreman tried to calm him down explaining that it was not an ax but a very special carpenter tool. by the time they got back to the office he was bringing it down to the pencil line with his long plain.
I spent 6 months flattening the back of a hatchet someone didn't know what they had and tks to you I know which hand it's for AND which side to stand on. As an 1812 reenactors I truly appreciate it
Great overview. I just picked up my first broad hatchet today, will make it a new handle, clean the rust, sharpen, and it should be good to go. I'm excited to try it out!
A very old right bevel broad axe came into the sharpening shop today. Looks like it was found whilst metal detecting. Guessing colonial era. Very worn, from lots of use, but the steel is still good. Was pretty sure I knew it's intended purpose already, but this gave me a bit more insight into the specific end use, and edge geometry that I will need to restore, to make it serviceable once again.. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this information! I have collected a couple antique axes that I intend to restore and use. And knowing what you showed me through your video gives me greater appreciation for hand-hewn woodwork I see in old buildings. Thank you again - subscribed!
Such a nice well done presentation. Thanks for sharing and I will check out your store. On the flip side, " no pun intended" some use the right or left hand grind axe on either side. Perhaps the straight flat edge to produce a more flat surface and the reverse to take off smaller surfaces, or with the more circular Gransfors Bruks he displayed to produce a cupped or scalloped look. Just my two cents for what its worth.
Good day Jim of Highland woodworking, I've appreciated your reflections in a couple of your video's and you seem familiar with a number of axe types and manufacturers to an extent I am not so I'd really appreciate your opinion. I've, with one exception, never had the chance to try a carpenters or carvers axe*, never mind a broad axe, but I do a 'little bit'' let's say with axe's, usually making a felling or splitting axe 'one size fits all', but I've been wondering about branching out, you know going out on a limb and buying a specialist axe; I noticed you have experience with the Gransfors Bruks axe's amongst others and wondered if you had to use just one axe, let's say a Gransfors Bruks large carving axe or a Gransfors Bruks Swedish 1900 Broad Axe to do a variety of major tasks, let's say make a dugout canoe, some furniture, a dwelling in the woods and a totem pole-just for variety- which would be your choice? Or would it be a different axe entirely, like the older, equally-or more in Scandinavia- reknown Hults Bruks for example? Even a felling or splitting axe that I still use for a multitude of tasks... I'm thinking a double bevel, rather than right or left sided, I have tried a Stubai right sided and havn't found it THAT advantageous for flattening and of course much less useful for general use...If you have a moment I'd appreciate your thoughts on the matter if you find it is an interesting question to ponder of course Thank you.* Except the Stubai right bevelled which thus far I havn't found particularly handy at all...
The beveled side is actually intended to be toward the log when doing fine trim. The flat side provides a thinner, sharper edge. The flat side bites into the surface and could lead to an excess removal of material.
Multiple websites have the GB broad axe 1900 listed incorrectly. Be careful out there. Hope this helps someone. The GB 1900 4803 is a RIGHT BEVEL GRIND. Most websites state this. I’ve found two so far that state the 4803 is a left bevel grind.
Good video, thanks, As I'm in the market for a broad axe and a goosewing for that matter, would be even more helpful if you called out which axe is which in the video, that is, what is the brand and model of the axes you're using here? Also, in the same vein, would be great to take 8 or 10 of the axes you sell through a use and care video, that is, "...this Granfors broad axe can be used for hewing/shaping/... but is best used for shaping...", and show it in use for the tasks noted. Then, "...when you're finished with the work give it a fresh edge by honing, sharpening with a puck/stone/diamond/file, and wipe the handle with light wax/oil/....", etc..., etc.... Thanks,
A question. I have a true temper TB2. According to think so, because of the angled bladyou it is a right bevel axe, but it has a bend just forward from blade.the eye and it also bends to the right. Basically it is a hatchet. What length handle should I put in it? My guess is 14-16”. The eye is1.6 times .6 oval. Should I put an offset handle in it? I don’t think so because of the angled blade.
Great video. I've wanted to get into this for turning firewood like pieces into usable wood. Some pieces can be pretty sketchy even taking them to the band saw and my band saw isn't very big. I have the same drill press as you fellow Wisconsinite. I love that thing but I bought it used with a crack on the back the pulley enclosure. Looked up the part and am not sure what to replace it with exactly. It's not noticeable but I refurbished the pillar and all the small parts and find it annoying.
So I dug out an old hatchet, sanded some rust off, filed the edge a little to remove small burrs & I was wondering what the heck is with this bent head. Has a 17" handle that is almost straight on the bottom and a almost flat cutting edge. Now I know. Thank-you for the stupid simple explanation lol. KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid. Going to be great for kindling when out fishing. That's about what I'll be using it for. Darn thing still has mill circles on it!!!
I am curious to hear your thoughts on utilizing the opposite side of a hewing axe for the bevel? So if the flat back of the axe head is on the right side when the blade is facing away from your chest, the bevel would be on the right side of the blade. Reason I ask is I was watching this video, ua-cam.com/video/hagvGTyEMUA/v-deo.html , and this man states he used to do it the other way but switched after spending some time with old timers. The reasons he provides are two fold, the first relates to the the point of the blade being off to one side was not necessarily to get the blade closer to the piece but was to allow for a thinner blade and henceforth a sharper blade. The second reason relates to how the blade cuts the wood and prevents the blade from getting stuck. Maybe the answer is that both have their uses, maybe the hewing awes you show are just be for finer work and the axe in the video I provided is for more rough work. I just wish there was a good one stop shop that explained all of the different axe types and uses, as this fine tuning and switching of the bevel to the opposite side and working the wood in a different manner may be more true to the pioneer period.
Gransfors really makes it confusing on their website.. The say ''Right-handed persons normally use Large Carving Axe, Grinded left side'' When I think of the word ''Grind'' I think of the bevel itself, and not the flat portion. I've always thought that axes would be the same as traditional Japanese knives, if you're a right hander you have the bevel on the right side and the flat on the left.
Although I like your video, I believe your mistaken about which end of the axe to use, your analogy of the chisel was spot on, then you kind of preformed the opposite. If you were to only use a chisel to hewn a log, you would use the beveled side far more than the straight side
This was not a film based in a wealth of practical knowledge, clearly. Look out for Dan Dustin's video. I use a double bevel in my films on the subject.
It is ideal to have both. They each specialize by the side of the log they cut. A right hand broad axe is used on the right hand side of the log (when looking down the length of the log.) Consequently, a right hand broad axe has a head that is flat on the left side and a handle that deflects to the right (away from the flat face) so that it clears the log. A left hand broad axe is used on the left hand side of the log (when looking down the length of the log.) Consequently, a left hand broad axe has a head that is flat on the right side and a handle that deflects to the left (away from the flat face) so that it clears the log.
where you stand and how you stand matters, pretty sure when you're using a Frowing ax or hatchet to turn a round log square, if you're cutting the right side your right foot should be on top of the log and you only lift the blade than controle the fall as it dropes to your side safely along the side of the log, no chance of hitting yourself.
Left and right beveled axes depend on how the handle is hung. Broad axes I have handled do not have a tapered eye, so the handle can be inserted from either end. Your hewing technique is flawed but only because it has been perpetuated by many. Ergonomically, hewing on the top face of the log is safer and more efficient.
This is a conspiracy to sell more axes! Think about it - all beams have a LEFT and a RIGHT side. There’s two axes already. I wonder if there are top and bottom axes as well?
Keyboard Enthusiast If u are working in a confined space ‘ say down in the hold of a wooden ship for example and working on a huge beam to make if fit ‘ it would be very handy ‘ you wouldn’t be thinking of conspiracy theories ‘ just get it done
you actually can just turn around to do the other (left) side the exact same way as the first (right) side. rotating the log to do top and bottom cuts the exact same way as the first cut, nice and easy ...
D not hold the timber with your thumb on top of the piece. Be safe. The handle of a hewing axe should not be straight it should be bent to the side, so you don't scrape your knuckes. That's why this guy is chipping away. He is scared of scraping his knuckles!
I just watched another video called hand hewing from tree to beam that shows a guy named Dan Dustin use a broad ax as he skilfully produces a beam for Canterbury Shaker Village (looks like around 1980). In his opinion the flat on the broad ax should be out, and his explanation makes a lot of sense to me, as a woodworker. Not my area of expertise but I'm just pointing out that anyone considering buying or doing work with a broad axe should watch that other video.
Mark Lackley came here from same video. Dan’s explanation doesn’t make sense to me when thinking about the broad axe head design, nor the design of an offset handle. When you look at very old axes with offsets, the handles are offset away from the flat side. This means the user would have the flat side to the log.
@1978ajax Dan Dustin explains that the reason for the flat side is to effectively thin the blade. Watch the video. It’s the best hewing tutorial I’ve ever seen.
I was also curious about using a broad axe bevel in towards the log. It does make sense when you consider a draw knife works best with the bevel side against the log. It dosent cut to deep with the bezel against the work.
this depends on the work you are doing. these axes in this video are "carpentry" axes.. Dan is doing something else.. Hewing a beam is not the same as facing a door or finishing a board.. different tools for different work.. often the axes for beam hewing have handles so long that you can stand upright on the log and the axe goes by the side of the log, remember you have to last the day.. double-bevel or bevel side in makes the axe skip out from the log and keep the swing, then you can get back the energy from the return swing and just give it a tiny bit more to have another go.. just look at the oldest men at work.. steady they go, no rush and the less effort put in the longer they can go on.
oh.. and great video by the way.. :)
Have to share a story from my father a carpenter from a long line of house mechanics. He was sent out to hang a new door for an officer. It was an expensive special order door and it was way to big for the opening. So my dad pulled the broad ax from his tool chest and started reducing it The officer went screaming to the foreman of the carpenter shop "That crazy carpenter is copping up my expensive door with an ax." The foreman tried to calm him down explaining that it was not an ax but a very special carpenter tool. by the time they got back to the office he was bringing it down to the pencil line with his long plain.
Good one ‘ the world is full of gobshites 😄
I spent 6 months flattening the back of a hatchet someone didn't know what they had and tks to you I know which hand it's for AND which side to stand on. As an 1812 reenactors I truly appreciate it
Absolutely one of the clearest presentations of anything I have ever heard. Worth the listen just for that alone - a model of clarity!
Awesome video. Your explanations are incredibly clear. Thank you for your simple explanation!
Great overview. I just picked up my first broad hatchet today, will make it a new handle, clean the rust, sharpen, and it should be good to go. I'm excited to try it out!
A very old right bevel broad axe came into the sharpening shop today.
Looks like it was found whilst metal detecting.
Guessing colonial era.
Very worn, from lots of use, but the steel is still good.
Was pretty sure I knew it's intended purpose already, but this gave me a bit more insight into the specific end use, and edge geometry that I will need to restore, to make it serviceable once again..
Thanks!
Great video. I saw in another video where it is better to make smallcircular motion with axe as the blade connects wit the wood.
Thank you so much for this information! I have collected a couple antique axes that I intend to restore and use. And knowing what you showed me through your video gives me greater appreciation for hand-hewn woodwork I see in old buildings. Thank you again - subscribed!
Man you need some quality log dogs. They make such a difference when hewing to stabilize the log. Great video with lots of info!
Thank you for this information. I always wanted to know more about hand hewn timber as our families barn has beams created this way.
Great explanation! Well Done in your presentation. I now understand much better. Thank you!
Thanks for the refresher. Great information
Such a nice well done presentation. Thanks for sharing and I will check out your store. On the flip side, " no pun intended" some use the right or left hand grind axe on either side. Perhaps the straight flat edge to produce a more flat surface and the reverse to take off smaller surfaces, or with the more circular Gransfors Bruks he displayed to produce a cupped or scalloped look. Just my two cents for what its worth.
Good day Jim of Highland woodworking, I've appreciated your reflections in a couple of your video's and you seem familiar with a number of axe types and manufacturers to an extent I am not so I'd really appreciate your opinion. I've, with one exception, never had the chance to try a carpenters or carvers axe*, never mind a broad axe, but I do a 'little bit'' let's say with axe's, usually making a felling or splitting axe 'one size fits all', but I've been wondering about branching out, you know going out on a limb and buying a specialist axe; I noticed you have experience with the Gransfors Bruks axe's amongst others and wondered if you had to use just one axe, let's say a Gransfors Bruks large carving axe or a Gransfors Bruks Swedish 1900 Broad Axe to do a variety of major tasks, let's say make a dugout canoe, some furniture, a dwelling in the woods and a totem pole-just for variety- which would be your choice? Or would it be a different axe entirely, like the older, equally-or more in Scandinavia- reknown Hults Bruks for example? Even a felling or splitting axe that I still use for a multitude of tasks... I'm thinking a double bevel, rather than right or left sided, I have tried a Stubai right sided and havn't found it THAT advantageous for flattening and of course much less useful for general use...If you have a moment I'd appreciate your thoughts on the matter if you find it is an interesting question to ponder of course Thank you.* Except the Stubai right bevelled which thus far I havn't found particularly handy at all...
Very interesting tool!
Great presentation.
The beveled side is actually intended to be toward the log when doing fine trim. The flat side provides a thinner, sharper edge. The flat side bites into the surface and could lead to an excess removal of material.
Multiple websites have the GB broad axe 1900 listed incorrectly. Be careful out there. Hope this helps someone. The GB 1900 4803 is a RIGHT BEVEL GRIND.
Most websites state this. I’ve found two so far that state the 4803 is a left bevel grind.
I was curious why my old axe find was forged asymmetrically. Thanks!
Good video, thanks, As I'm in the market for a broad axe and a goosewing for that matter, would be even more helpful if you called out which axe is which in the video, that is, what is the brand and model of the axes you're using here?
Also, in the same vein, would be great to take 8 or 10 of the axes you sell through a use and care video, that is, "...this Granfors broad axe can be used for hewing/shaping/... but is best used for shaping...", and show it in use for the tasks noted. Then, "...when you're finished with the work give it a fresh edge by honing, sharpening with a puck/stone/diamond/file, and wipe the handle with light wax/oil/....", etc..., etc....
Thanks,
Excellent gentlemen cheers 👍💪👍
Very helpful video, thank you
Very clear!
A question. I have a true temper TB2. According to think so, because of the angled bladyou it is a right bevel axe, but it has a bend just forward from blade.the eye and it also bends to the right. Basically it is a hatchet. What length handle should I put in it? My guess is 14-16”. The eye is1.6 times .6 oval. Should I put an offset handle in it? I don’t think so because of the angled blade.
Great video. I've wanted to get into this for turning firewood like pieces into usable wood. Some pieces can be pretty sketchy even taking them to the band saw and my band saw isn't very big. I have the same drill press as you fellow Wisconsinite. I love that thing but I bought it used with a crack on the back the pulley enclosure. Looked up the part and am not sure what to replace it with exactly. It's not noticeable but I refurbished the pillar and all the small parts and find it annoying.
So I dug out an old hatchet, sanded some rust off, filed the edge a little to remove small burrs & I was wondering what the heck is with this bent head. Has a 17" handle that is almost straight on the bottom and a almost flat cutting edge. Now I know. Thank-you for the stupid simple explanation lol. KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid.
Going to be great for kindling when out fishing. That's about what I'll be using it for. Darn thing still has mill circles on it!!!
How to tell how big a handle you need for your Broadhead axe?
Buenísima explicación.
Can you simply turn one upside down and handle it to make it a left-handed
I am curious to hear your thoughts on utilizing the opposite side of a hewing axe for the bevel? So if the flat back of the axe head is on the right side when the blade is facing away from your chest, the bevel would be on the right side of the blade. Reason I ask is I was watching this video, ua-cam.com/video/hagvGTyEMUA/v-deo.html , and this man states he used to do it the other way but switched after spending some time with old timers. The reasons he provides are two fold, the first relates to the the point of the blade being off to one side was not necessarily to get the blade closer to the piece but was to allow for a thinner blade and henceforth a sharper blade. The second reason relates to how the blade cuts the wood and prevents the blade from getting stuck. Maybe the answer is that both have their uses, maybe the hewing awes you show are just be for finer work and the axe in the video I provided is for more rough work. I just wish there was a good one stop shop that explained all of the different axe types and uses, as this fine tuning and switching of the bevel to the opposite side and working the wood in a different manner may be more true to the pioneer period.
I agree
Gransfors really makes it confusing on their website.. The say ''Right-handed persons normally use Large Carving Axe, Grinded left side'' When I think of the word ''Grind'' I think of the bevel itself, and not the flat portion. I've always thought that axes would be the same as traditional Japanese knives, if you're a right hander you have the bevel on the right side and the flat on the left.
I thought the bevel goes towards the log.
Although I like your video, I believe your mistaken about which end of the axe to use, your analogy of the chisel was spot on, then you kind of preformed the opposite. If you were to only use a chisel to hewn a log, you would use the beveled side far more than the straight side
This was not a film based in a wealth of practical knowledge, clearly. Look out for Dan Dustin's video. I use a double bevel in my films on the subject.
Can you turn a log into planks with a broad axe?
You can do it with a regular carpenter axe too, watch channel of Andrey Pereberin, you don’t have to speak Russian to understand, very skilled man.
Can one do with one axe or does one need both a right and a left version?
It is ideal to have both. They each specialize by the side of the log they cut.
A right hand broad axe is used on the right hand side of the log (when looking down the length of the log.) Consequently, a right hand broad axe has a head that is flat on the left side and a handle that deflects to the right (away from the flat face) so that it clears the log.
A left hand broad axe is used on the left hand side of the log (when looking down the length of the log.) Consequently, a left hand broad axe has a head that is flat on the right side and a handle that deflects to the left (away from the flat face) so that it clears the log.
Do these have regular handles or flat on one side?
where you stand and how you stand matters, pretty sure when you're using a Frowing ax or hatchet to turn a round log square, if you're cutting the right side your right foot should be on top of the log and you only lift the blade than controle the fall as it dropes to your side safely along the side of the log, no chance of hitting yourself.
How long do you let the logs dry before making posts?
Should take about one year per inch of thickness.
So a right handed person uses a left bevel broad axe?
No, but right bevel axe.
Awesome video, I don't suppose you know anything about Russian/soviet axes? I'd love to pick your brains about one I picked up recently. :)
Unfortunately, we don't sell any of those here at Highland.
@@HighlandWoodworking no worries. Thanks for replying anyway. :)
What's unique about Russian/soviet axes?
Go Badgers!
ON WISCONSIN!
👍
Left and right beveled axes depend on how the handle is hung. Broad axes I have handled do not have a tapered eye, so the handle can be inserted from either end. Your hewing technique is flawed but only because it has been perpetuated by many. Ergonomically, hewing on the top face of the log is safer and more efficient.
So Broad Axes are essentially Chisel Ground?
Works better with your index finger on the axe head
I wonder how some one Kentucky would tell this .
Через вас можно ?преобрести топор как у вас
This is a conspiracy to sell more axes! Think about it - all beams have a LEFT and a RIGHT side. There’s two axes already. I wonder if there are top and bottom axes as well?
Usually the handle is removable to use the axe in both hands
Keyboard Enthusiast If u are working in a confined space ‘ say down in the hold of a wooden ship for example and working on a huge beam to make if fit ‘ it would be very handy ‘ you wouldn’t be thinking of conspiracy theories ‘ just get it done
you actually can just turn around to do the other (left) side the exact same way as the first (right) side. rotating the log to do top and bottom cuts the exact same way as the first cut, nice and easy ...
D not hold the timber with your thumb on top of the piece. Be safe. The handle of a hewing axe should not be straight it should be bent to the side, so you don't scrape your knuckes. That's why this guy is chipping away. He is scared of scraping his knuckles!