I'm so glad I went down the rabbit hole on your channel. Your info on tuning a nitro engine is EXACTLY what I needed. I finally got my Kraken 580 flying beautifully. Thank you so much for your awesome videos!!!!
Return springs are only good in the event of loss of power. If your have a RX failure or brown out/lock out servo is still powered up and no spring will pull newer servos pack with 200 plus oz of torque.
That’s great. I might consider getting the raw 700. Also sold the vbar for a profit because of the problems. Might consider getting the ix14 after i save up again. Got a dremel 8260 and ag01 gimbals + bunch spares for the goosky and m1
I’ve seen some issues with the new NEO. Definitely not good! The IX14 is fantastic! Really love this radio. Highly recommend it. It’s always good to get stuff!
Judging if it's rich based off of the smoke is not really that helpful, that can vary massively depending on what fuel you're using. I've run fuels over the years where there has been massive amounts of smoke, and others that produced barely any, yet in both cases the tuning was spot on. You're better off going by the sound. Also doing the climb outs and stops as demonstrated in this video doesn't really show what you should be seeing, you're always going to get what looks like a surge of smoke at the top because you're going from having that smoke spread over the climb to being concentrated in a hover at the top, and it being blown out by the rotors. What you need to do is hold that hover at the top for 3-4 seconds, and during that time watch the smoke, you need to look at it just at the exit of the exhaust, if it is high but then drops off to how it looks when it's sat in a hover for a long time, that's when it's rich. Just coming to a stop, and not giving it time to do that could lead to the wrong conclusion, that it's rich when it isn't.
You are correct, that is what most people do. I also concur with your suggestions about this particular heli's tune. In my opinion, it is actually lean on the high side. You can tell it does not recover after getting into collective as it changes to the high needle. It should look on the rich side to keep temps in check. You can also tell during the flight as heat raised, it had even less power than initial settings when the power seemed fine. He did also speak about the idle needle. Unfortunately, he damaged the adjustment copper part as he did not loosed the locking nut before adjustment. There was an adjustment, but the needed stayed at the factory setting. It is the concentric that moves that copper part. The concentric bent it. Other than that, the instructional video is informative and with the right idea, the instructions are correct. The mid needle adjustment looked to be right on for the days temp. Also, if it is on a governor, the collective affects the throttle 0%. It just moves the collective and the governor does what it needs with the throttle to maintain head speed. So the throttle/collective thing about going mid too high needle is incorrect.
I’m thinking of getting back into flying . I have a XCel 60 and a shuttle z x Don’t know what radio to go with . I super 8 is dead . I just ordered frsky X20 . But second guessing my self on it .
You should get back into flying! Wow, old school models. I’ve got a almost new Xcell 60 airframe if you ever need parts! The Frsky X20S is a great radio. Definitely a completely different radio then the older super 8! Programming is completely different now as well.
Great informative video. Glad i come across it. Ive just melted out my OS32 engine sadly. Piston detonation so clearly running too lean when i thoughtit was ok. Brand new engine in ready to follow your video from scratch, can i ask what you mean by loading up when idling? Thanks Regards Tim
Thank you! I’ve melted a piston in my old OS 50 (ran 50% nitro on accident and didn’t retune) loading up on idle is when the low end it’s too rich, you will hear the engine as it’s idling Gurgle down it’s loading up on fuel, and when you go to give it a little bit of throttle, it’ll spit a bunch of fuel out of the exhaust that is too rich on the low end. you want to be able to allow the engine to run for five minutes straight out idle and be able to give it throttle and it should not spit a bunch of fuel out or gurgle and burble as it comes up to rpm.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thanks so much for the help and info. I will do that and check. The engine is brand new so the mixture idle screw will be set to factory default. In the manual it says the OS32 SX to wind main needle out 1 and half turns and go from there. The heli starts and runs bit will fine tune it properly.
Thank you! So I’m touching the back plate or as long on the engine as you can. You could also use a temp gun and read the temperature that way witch is definitely more accurate but as long as you can feel the bottom or as close to the bottom of the engine as possible your god.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I got a temp sensor in the third fin, under solid snappy tic tocs temps rise to 223F, Then I back off, But when I land I put my finger on the back plate area around the bolts and it seems to be good. Thank you so much for this video. Seems way more up to date compared to the older videos from 13 years ago
@@th3s41nt 223 degrees is perfectly fine, engine will definitely heat up under hard load. I’m glad the video is helpful! What temp sensor are you using? What FBL? I’m about to make my own temp sensor.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Vbar neo with mikado temp sensor 05058 Temperature Sensor (- 300°C) VBar Control. Works great and doesn’t break like other models or versions. I remember using other brands and they wouldn’t last 2 flights before breaking. I got the head up to 280 but I’m gonna stop letting it get that high as I’ve been burning up pistons/scratching the liners and pistons.
@@th3s41nt I’m going to try and make a sensor work with iKon, not seen anyone do it yet. Yeah, 280 degrees is way to hot. I’ve personally never burned up a piston or messed up a sleeve. But I always run a tad rich on my engines.
Some people use a small brushless motor as a alternator. It's mostly done on gassers wich can have a flight time of up to 20 minutes. In that case weight also really isn't the biggest concern
Gas helicopters use a brushless motor on the top as a generator. It does work and charge the battery but I personally don’t see the need for that unless you are running high, powered Servos and flying for a long time. I get five 10 minute flights out of a RX pack on my Nitro‘s before I need to recharge or swap the battery out.
I’m so scared to lean it out. I’ve been threw multiple motors from running lean. Last motor actually cracked right at the front bearing. Not sure if it was from me putting it in the oven or letting the heat get to 300f flying hard. By the way you sound a lot like finless bob
I’ve been running nitro engines for over 25 years now. Basically my own life. I’ve only ever killed one engine from running lean, melted a piston. The smoke will tell you everything as well as the sound of the engine at idle. I personally like to run a little rich and that’s why I said in the video I don’t go for the “all out tune” I’m happy with the performance slightly rich. I don’t know who that is but I’ll look him up.
Hi, do you work on these? I was wondering if it's possible to send mine over for a checkup and tunning, I have recently acquired a Kyosho Caliber 30, it has an OS MAX 32SX engine, everything works, but it can sure use some tunning.
I got to ask you. I love the sab helis and want a 50 class nitro. is raw looks fantastic as does the nitron and nimbus. what heli has that it factor and which heli has the easiest to access engine for removal.
I'm so glad I went down the rabbit hole on your channel. Your info on tuning a nitro engine is EXACTLY what I needed. I finally got my Kraken 580 flying beautifully. Thank you so much for your awesome videos!!!!
Awesome! I’m glad these videos are helpful! I try to make very informative videos that teach and help everyone! The Kraken 580 is a great heli!
Great video Jeff, thanks for taking the time to make this!
Thank you! I hope the video it was helpful and informational. Thank you for watching.!
great info - good to see this in action as its hard to explain verbally well done sir another great video
Thank you! It is very hard to explain in text/message. Much easier to show a visual!
nice content. Ive been tuning these suckers for 20 years and its always a good to see how others go about tuning. It just helps in every way...
Great stuff Jeff, thanks! Perfect timing too, my Raw 580N is all finished and I will maiden later this week. Cant wait!
Thank you for watching! I hope your 580 nitro flys great! You will love this Heli!
Awesome. Great tut. Simply and short!
Thank you for watching! I’m glad you enjoy it!
I am saving up for the Nimbus 650 nitro thats coming out this december, it will be my first nitro. Got this video saved :)
The new nitro Nimbus 650 looks awesome! I seen it in person at IRCHA ad watched it fly a bunch and definitely adding it to my list!
Did you buy one?
@jwdrone512 unfortunately due to my financial situation I had to put it off, but I havnt given up. For now my goosky s2 is my go to!
Great video , Thanks Jeff .. very nice instructions
Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Position that RATCHET SPRING and use it as the Fully-Closed marker.
Return springs are only good in the event of loss of power. If your have a RX failure or brown out/lock out servo is still powered up and no spring will pull newer servos pack with 200 plus oz of torque.
Great video!! This will def be handy when i get mine going 👍🏻
Nice instructions 👍
Thank you! I hope the video is useful!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 yes, very useful
You really make me want to buy another nitro.
Do it! Nitro is awesome, everyone should have at Least one in there Collection!
Great vid! perfect for getting on a 55hzr coming from a 2 needle 50SX
Great video thank you
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching!
Informative
Thank you Tony! I appreciate it!
Thank You Sir.
You’re welcome!
That’s great. I might consider getting the raw 700. Also sold the vbar for a profit because of the problems. Might consider getting the ix14 after i save up again. Got a dremel 8260 and ag01 gimbals + bunch spares for the goosky and m1
I’ve seen some issues with the new NEO. Definitely not good! The IX14 is fantastic! Really love this radio. Highly recommend it. It’s always good to get stuff!
Judging if it's rich based off of the smoke is not really that helpful, that can vary massively depending on what fuel you're using.
I've run fuels over the years where there has been massive amounts of smoke, and others that produced barely any, yet in both cases the tuning was spot on.
You're better off going by the sound.
Also doing the climb outs and stops as demonstrated in this video doesn't really show what you should be seeing, you're always going to get what looks like a surge of smoke at the top because you're going from having that smoke spread over the climb to being concentrated in a hover at the top, and it being blown out by the rotors.
What you need to do is hold that hover at the top for 3-4 seconds, and during that time watch the smoke, you need to look at it just at the exit of the exhaust, if it is high but then drops off to how it looks when it's sat in a hover for a long time, that's when it's rich.
Just coming to a stop, and not giving it time to do that could lead to the wrong conclusion, that it's rich when it isn't.
You should make a video.
I would go leaner on the mid and richen the high a couple of clicks. Many people run the high too lean and the mid too rich.
You are correct, that is what most people do. I also concur with your suggestions about this particular heli's tune. In my opinion, it is actually lean on the high side. You can tell it does not recover after getting into collective as it changes to the high needle. It should look on the rich side to keep temps in check. You can also tell during the flight as heat raised, it had even less power than initial settings when the power seemed fine.
He did also speak about the idle needle. Unfortunately, he damaged the adjustment copper part as he did not loosed the locking nut before adjustment. There was an adjustment, but the needed stayed at the factory setting. It is the concentric that moves that copper part. The concentric bent it.
Other than that, the instructional video is informative and with the right idea, the instructions are correct. The mid needle adjustment looked to be right on for the days temp.
Also, if it is on a governor, the collective affects the throttle 0%. It just moves the collective and the governor does what it needs with the throttle to maintain head speed. So the throttle/collective thing about going mid too high needle is incorrect.
I’m thinking of getting back into flying . I have a XCel 60 and a shuttle z x Don’t know what radio to go with . I super 8 is dead . I just ordered frsky X20 . But second guessing my self on it .
You should get back into flying! Wow, old school models. I’ve got a almost new Xcell 60 airframe if you ever need parts! The Frsky X20S is a great radio. Definitely a completely different radio then the older super 8! Programming is completely different now as well.
❤❤❤, super
Thank you!
Great informative video. Glad i come across it. Ive just melted out my OS32 engine sadly. Piston detonation so clearly running too lean when i thoughtit was ok. Brand new engine in ready to follow your video from scratch, can i ask what you mean by loading up when idling?
Thanks Regards Tim
Thank you! I’ve melted a piston in my old OS 50 (ran 50% nitro on accident and didn’t retune) loading up on idle is when the low end it’s too rich, you will hear the engine as it’s idling Gurgle down it’s loading up on fuel, and when you go to give it a little bit of throttle, it’ll spit a bunch of fuel out of the exhaust that is too rich on the low end. you want to be able to allow the engine to run for five minutes straight out idle and be able to give it throttle and it should not spit a bunch of fuel out or gurgle and burble as it comes up to rpm.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thanks so much for the help and info. I will do that and check. The engine is brand new so the mixture idle screw will be set to factory default. In the manual it says the OS32 SX to wind main needle out 1 and half turns and go from there. The heli starts and runs bit will fine tune it properly.
I’m using the muffler for backplate pressure I can’t get my finger in there. Where exactly are you touching? Great video by the way thank you!!!
Thank you! So I’m touching the back plate or as long on the engine as you can. You could also use a temp gun and read the temperature that way witch is definitely more accurate but as long as you can feel the bottom or as close to the bottom of the engine as possible your god.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I got a temp sensor in the third fin, under solid snappy tic tocs temps rise to 223F, Then I back off, But when I land I put my finger on the back plate area around the bolts and it seems to be good. Thank you so much for this video. Seems way more up to date compared to the older videos from 13 years ago
@@th3s41nt 223 degrees is perfectly fine, engine will definitely heat up under hard load. I’m glad the video is helpful! What temp sensor are you using? What FBL? I’m about to make my own temp sensor.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Vbar neo with mikado temp sensor 05058 Temperature Sensor (- 300°C) VBar Control. Works great and doesn’t break like other models or versions. I remember using other brands and they wouldn’t last 2 flights before breaking. I got the head up to 280 but I’m gonna stop letting it get that high as I’ve been burning up pistons/scratching the liners and pistons.
@@th3s41nt I’m going to try and make a sensor work with iKon, not seen anyone do it yet. Yeah, 280 degrees is way to hot. I’ve personally never burned up a piston or messed up a sleeve. But I always run a tad rich on my engines.
I gave you a like because you told me to
has anyone ever put alternators on these to charge the packs as they fly? or would the gas run out before the battery pack anyway
Some people use a small brushless motor as a alternator. It's mostly done on gassers wich can have a flight time of up to 20 minutes. In that case weight also really isn't the biggest concern
Gas helicopters use a brushless motor on the top as a generator. It does work and charge the battery but I personally don’t see the need for that unless you are running high, powered Servos and flying for a long time. I get five 10 minute flights out of a RX pack on my Nitro‘s before I need to recharge or swap the battery out.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 damn yeah so thatd have to be a pretty long flight to warrant using that 5 10 min flights on 1 lipo pack is pretty awesome still
Can you possibly help me with my 230s setup with micro Ikon 2 setup?
Yes, send me a email. westhobbiesrc@hotmail.com
Which glow igniter onboard you use please? thanks in advance
I use a Xglo, always on board glow!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 As i saw on your differents movies build of kraken 580. I just saw what you're using. Btw! good job for theses nice videos!
You didn't say about the throttle curve. Is it linear and the governor is disabled?
Flat throttle curves and governor.
I’m so scared to lean it out. I’ve been threw multiple motors from running lean. Last motor actually cracked right at the front bearing. Not sure if it was from me putting it in the oven or letting the heat get to 300f flying hard. By the way you sound a lot like finless bob
I’ve been running nitro engines for over 25 years now. Basically my own life. I’ve only ever killed one engine from running lean, melted a piston. The smoke will tell you everything as well as the sound of the engine at idle. I personally like to run a little rich and that’s why I said in the video I don’t go for the “all out tune” I’m happy with the performance slightly rich. I don’t know who that is but I’ll look him up.
Hi, do you work on these? I was wondering if it's possible to send mine over for a checkup and tunning, I have recently acquired a Kyosho Caliber 30, it has an OS MAX 32SX engine, everything works, but it can sure use some tunning.
Hello, yes. Send me a email westhobbiesrc@hotmail.com we can go over everything In email.
Молодец, и ОН и вертолетик
I got to ask you. I love the sab helis and want a 50 class nitro. is raw looks fantastic as does the nitron and nimbus. what heli has that it factor and which heli has the easiest to access engine for removal.
Great video thamks