Quick tip to those who are going to attempt this - remove the plastic duct work next to the door blend motor itself. It will provide you with enough room to access the top t20 screw. It’s an extra step but it will save you a ton of frustration. Cheers !
Are you talking about the duct work that is for the floor heater? If so, ho do you remove that? I tried pulling on it just a little but afraid to break something! haha
The duct work is a clamshell design that comes apart at the edges. Try to squeeze your hands in there and grab both sides, they will come apart. Takes a little bit of patience but you have all the room you need once you separate the ductwork
This video was helpful, and so were many of the comments. I agree with some other commenters who say you don't need to remove the whole lower dash panels. I was able to remove just the felt panel at the top of the footwell, the lower duct, and the 2-piece upper duct. Its actually a somewhat easy fix from there. An important point to remember is to line up the actuator gear properly with the flapper gear. Theres a larger section on the actuator gear that aligns with a larger gap on the flapper gear. Good luck everyone.....go save yourself $1,200!
TIP: if it hasnt been said i just did this now. It just needed the gear. ***The top screw, I backed out most of the way but did not remove it. I removed the bottom screw and was able to pull and swing the actuator out with plenty of room to replace the gear. Didn't even unplug the wires. Saved the frustration of getting that screw back in, just had to tighten that scew back down. Took me less than 30min to complete the job of the gear change.
Great video! The comments below helped significantly as I did not have to remove any parts other than the bottom felt with accent lights and the bottom vent. For the later, i removed the bottom and top clamp shell portion which gave be easy access to the screws. The job took less than 1 hour on my 2014 Dodge Durango. In my case the actuator failed and not the gear. The gear looked fine, so I did not replace. I have 116K miles and it's the first actuator to fail. I'm taller, so I laid on my back on the drivers side floor with my right arm behind the brake pedal for most of the job.
Everyone has great tips in the comments but I wanted to add one more. I never read the comments to see about taking the upper ducting out like a dummy. So I improvised and adapted. I knew for a fact that my gear was broken because had pieces fall down as I was taking everything apart. As we all know that top screw won’t come out without removing the upper ducting (I didn’t do that) so with the powers of observation I could tell that putting that top screw in after taking it out would be impossible. So I took the top torx screw out of the actuator about 85% of the way… enough to free it up and get it to move. I then flipped the actuator up and out of the way and put the new gear in then wiggled the actuator until it found where it wanted to be. Everything popped back together nicely and then I only had to wrestle with the bottom screw and then just tighten the top one. I’m no mechanic so it’s probably not the “preferred” method but it’s certainly another option for folks. I have heat on both sides again so I am happy. Good luck!!
Great video. Had to do this over a weekend. A couple added tips: 1) Definitely need to take out the upper duct work to get to that upper screw on the acuator. It is hard and seems like it wont come out, but it will. Break the clamshell and take out the rear first and then the front. When you put it back together, put the rear in first and then force the front part of the upper duct in. Then do your best to snap the clamshell together. 2) Reattaching the hood release cable with the kick panel doesn't work. You need to take off the hood release lever from the kick panel and then attach the cable to the handle. Then insert the handle back into the kick panel. Thanks for all your help!
Thanks dude. Did this today and took your silver screw pro-tip. Took way longer than I'd like to admit but it's all buttoned up and blowing cold air! Saved all the dollars.
this Video was so helpful and the only reason i attempted the repair myself. it also took me about 6 hours. i think i could do it in about half the time if i ever had to do it again. i wouldn't do it again, i would just trade the jeep in..lol...not going to lie, it was a bear to do. i am a big guy so lying under the dash was not an option. torx bit electrical taped to a 1/4" wrench was the only thing i had to fit to get the factory screws out. lots of scapes and invented swear words later and i succeeded. thanks again for the video.
excellent video. my gear broke 3 years ago, I was able to put the new gear on, but only put one of those original screws back in, and sure enough 3 days later it failed. like you said this job is the most frustrating, stupid repair I've ever done. anyway I was without warm air for 3 winters in Michigan, I came across this video and decided to follow your steps, still frustrating AF, but like you said, if it fails again, it'll be a lot easier. thank you!
You are brilliant sir. Changing out that bolt/screw for that 8 x 1/2 is the best thing. I just changed out our 2011 for the second time and that will save a lot of tiny little turns. Thank you. That plastic piece seems to last 25K and then goes bad on our Jeep. Both sides that is.
Thanks man! Yeah they don’t last long and I can see why. That’s why I tried to make it easier for all of us since i know we’ll be back in there doing it again lol
Good video, but the root cause of the problem is that the blend door rubber gasket melts/softens and causes it to stick open or closed. Once it is stuck the motor turns the gear and snaps it. This is why it happens over and over. You have to get tools into the blend door to clean away/remove the gasket that has melted. I did this on the passenger side in mine and it has not happened again - but was a huge pain to do. Won't get another jeep because of this
Thanks for the video !! Mine has the air bag. Having a hard time locating the two 10's. Is it OK to take the air bag compartment door off or does it need to stay intact?? Thanks !!
And thanks for the great video. One comment I will make is for that one screw that is the hardest to get if you remove the air sensor from the upper duct, you can pull that duct out fairly easily it may come out in two pieces, but it snaps back together pretty easily.
Hell yea! Short enough to keep my ADHD in check and all the angles and info i need. Also, kudos for the tips in the comments about the upper plastic piece. Im not a car guy nor do i work on them any more than just oil and brakes. Some fella told me “you can do it yourself, its super simple. you only take off one piece and its right there. No worries 😐” Super happy i checked YT first and found this video.
I just had to do this on a 2012 and I have one piece of advice, I honestly wasted too much time trying to get the hood latch cable off before I realized you can just pop the whole lever assembly out of its spot on the plastic panel by unscrewing the panel, pull it out a bit and then take a screwdriver and push it out from behind, it has a tab like the electrical connectors that you press down then slide the whole thing out of its spot on the panel. Just a tip to make the process that much faster and you don’t have to worry about putting the cable back on when you’re done! Otherwise great video, and thanks!
I never knew that. Now I want to go check mine out to see if it’s like that lol That is good advise if they’re all like that because you’re right, the cable is not only an extra step, it’s pretty time consuming as well.
Great information and thanks. I was just quoted $1,200.00 because of labor. Going to get all the parts and items you mentioned and others in the comments and give it a go.
Let me know if you have any questions! Love seeing people save their hard earned money on things like this that are soooo doable for the average person. I listed everything in the description that I used.
Thanks for all the tips! This made the project a lot easier. Only took 1.5 hours. A 1/4 ratcheting wrench with a t20 wrapped in Teflon tape, so the bit doesn’t slip out, worked really well for those actuator screws. Cheers!
Hey. Remove the top duct to access that top screw. Super easier. Duct is in two pieces and meant to come out easily. And there is a peep hole to see if the actuators are broken.
This really sucks because I didn't know there was two of them and I was like oh and that blend door actuator is going to be easy. Found out there was two and now found out that it's going to take up my whole freaking day! Thanks for the vid though because I've never owned a Jeep so it's gonna be different
First off… thank you, I really appreciate your walkthrough and it helped me get to the actuator…but I am still having an issue. My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee started blowing room temp air on the passenger side…driver side is fine TG, but I’m in Florida and it’s too hot to have AC issues! So I checked the blend door actuator and yes…the plastic gear broke off at the stop…and even though I didn’t need it I decided to replace both the actuator motor and the gear with new OEM parts just to be done with it for under $50. So I believe I installed the parts correctly, it can only go in one-way right? Before I installed it tho, I manually tested the door first and it moves freely…I also tested the motor and let it dangle while I powered on the car…I tried holdingon to it to see if some resistance would stop it like the gear stop is supposed to do right? Wrong…that motor did not feel like it was going to stop, or am I missing something here? Shouldn’t it stop with some resistance? Anyway…I really had no other alternative other than to just install and test it …and so I did just that and I’m pretty sure I installed it correctly…it can only go in one way right? I slipped on the gear to the inner gear 1st…with the large tooth to the large gap…then adjusted the actuator/stem to line up and screwed it down. I’m wondering if this is the point where I didn’t line it up correctly somehow. So after installing the actuator/gear and removing battery power for 30 min to recalibrate…I cranked it up and all I can hear from the actuator was a loud clicking noise like the plastic gear just sheared off the stop again! I don’t think I need to pull it off again to figure that out as its exactly the same…cold air on the driver and room temp on the passenger side. I’m puzzled as to why when I crank up the heat on the passenger side that works with no problem…it just doesn’t get cold when I crank it down! I don’t wanna give up yet my bruthas…any help would be appreciated….thx again
Super cool man, I’ve done this job twice already replacing the gear and the actuator on driver and passenger side. Glad I watched as far as I did because replacing the screws is genius. Back to the store for a third fix. Stupid plastic piece of 🤬
Great video for such a crappy job. Thanks. You helped me out a ton. Every model is a little different and I found extra parts that needed to be removed. As someone else suggested, remove the duct next to the actuator. It makes it a lot easier to get to the screws. I’m surprised you weren’t swearing at the end. I was.
2017 Jeep Compass Actuator Arm sticking on cold and not moving to heat. Do you have a video that shows where and how to take the dash off to access the arm, clean it and lube it?
When i took i the 5 bolts 4 at bottom and 1 behind steering wheel bracket i was able to bring the panel patially down but it feels like theres other bolts which i'm assumming the 2 10mm bolts you were refering to. I had trouble locating those bolts becuase in the video i can't tell where you were on the lower panel pointing out the 2 bolts. I have 2014 jeep grand cherokee limited.
How do you reset Actuator? When I press key button the Actuator motor turned all the way to other end..How do I know which way it will go once its installed.
Question… I just replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. This resolved hot air blowing from back vents, but still on the passenger side. Could the driver side be the issue for passenger side for some reason? It’s starting to warm up here in Maryland
Do you have a favorite Jeep Owner's forum for troubleshooting advice? I own a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 Limited with 5.7L and I'm not sure the electric Rad Fan is behaving correctly. Can you do a check of operation on your Jeep and let me know? The question is: Does the electric Rad Fan come on as soon as the A/C compressor is engaged? On my car it doesn't. The Rad Fan will come on when the water temp gauge gets halfway up the scale, and cycles to maintain proper radiator temperature. Even with A/C and compressor running, the Rad Fan is not normally on. This seems wrong to me, based on previous vehicles I've owned. Without the radiator fan running, the liquid line under the hood gets FIRE hot when car is not moving. Just recently, I began hearing a hissing sound from under the dash when A/C is on. Believe this to be the sound of refrigerant flow, and wonder if system is low. My compressor runs continuously, and there is cooling, but not sure if it is normal, or under capacity. (Living in Atlanta, GA, and temps are still moderate.) Can you point me to a resource where I can learn theory and normal operation of modern A/C operation? I am familiar with "cycling clutch and fixed orifice" design from 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, but Jeep is much newer and has TXV (thermal expansion valve) located under the dash, just before the evaporator. Thanks for any ideas or suggestions. Chet
I wanted to thank you for sharing this information dealership wanted to rip me off 1200.00 saying I needed a radiator thermostat and backflush I changed the gear and actuator 50.00 dollars all set
I feel like a cordless electric ratchet wrench would of zipped those right off ... ill be working on mine over the weekend .. thanks for sharing and great video !
Update .. even with your video took me about 2.5 hours .. Actuator Gear DA1390 Same broken part... mine I had to break the flap free .. it was stuck .. the other side that the teeth grap into wiggle back and forth until it was free .. I think a air fresher vent clip broke an got wedged down in there
I have a 2012 grand Cherokee that is blowing air off the engine on driver side but AC and heat work fine on passenger side and back. What do I need to change out to fix this?
Did you ever find the issue ? I’m now having this issue where the passenger side works perfectly fine but the driver side doesn’t blow the same it mostly stays cool even with heater on
I’m having trouble with the top gear being in a back position and not lining up with the gear attached to my actuator. I can’t seem to move it so the two gears line up. Anyone know this fix?
I just replaced this driver side gear on my wifes WK2 Hemi and that was a P.I.T.A I swore the whole time 😂 now that I seen the duct work next to the screws comes off like a clam shell I will be two times as fast when I inevitably have to replace it again. Also I sprayed a little bit of lithium grease where the gear goes in for luck I guess to lubricate the blend door 🤷🏽♂️ I read that's why they snap is from friction/resistanfe against the gear. Stupid design nonethless 🎉
Can anyone clarify how to remove (or if I even need to remove) the airbag panel that is down by the drivers knees? I have replaced the actuator in a 2011 (both sides) and when I was doing a 2014 I noticed there was an airbag in that lower panel. Is that lower panel one whole piece or does the airbag part stay? I see in the video there are several 10 mm bolts to be removed, but I'm not sure how the panel comes out. I don't want to yank or pull on it that much and I'm little nervous to continuing until I understand this part...thanks in advance
Is it the same actuator and gear for both sides? Mines giving out on the driver side and failed on passenger side. Hoping I can just grab a two pack and get both sides done.
@@StayOnTheGas you know if it's common for the actuators to fail and not just the gear? Based on the labored sound the driver side is making I'm assuming it's more the actuator motor than the gear...
So I’ve heard people say always replace the actuator and the gear at the same time but I’m cheap and only did the gears lol. My actuators make noise from time to time too but I’ll dish out the $200 for both of them next time the gears break.
@@StayOnTheGas $200? Im looking on amazon at one right now for $15. I am really confused though if I need to replace the gear and actuator and haven't found guidance on how to determine that. Driver's side only blows heat, non-stop clicking noise.
200 for the actuators. They’re roughly 100 a pop for OEM ones. I’d check to see if your gear is still in good shape. If it is then it’s your actuator probably.
I have a 2014 too and also noticed 4 bolts. Now that I have the panel off, you only need to remove the outer 2. The inner 2 are connected to the airbag assembly. I believe the outer 2 are 10mm.
No, you don’t have to calibrate it. Make sure that it’s lined up 100% correct. The big wide tooth goes in the big wide slot and you should be good to go.
Oh man. My guess is that the teeth weren’t lined up correctly. You have to be very careful because there’s only one way it goes and it could easily move
GREAT, GREAT Video, But if you just quickly "pop out" the driver seat (4 easy 15mm bolts / 2 plug ports for pwr. seat), THEN you can lie down, pop that airway duct out, and BOTH SCREWS then / are easily accessible. *("Your ways a good way as well"). :- )
You and everyone else doing this job aren't calibrating (synchronize) the blend doors after you change them! That's why the fail a second time. The actuator throw must match the door throw (arc) or they will bind and bust the gears. Nothing to do with outside temp. You need a scan tool (Chrysler) to do this. Clearly stated in Dorman's packaging. Not sure about the cheap Chinese shit off of Ebay?
My situation is different, driver side blows only cold air and passenger and the back blow hot air especially passenger it's super hot and won't blow cold.
Oh okay so it would have to be fixed through the passenger side? By taking glove compartment out? Thanks so much for answering this has been such a hassle figuring out!
I just replace mine about 2 weeks ago and i didnt need to remove none of that stuff i just look up under there right next to the steering wheel and it was there big as day. It took me less than 30 mins to pop out the old and pop in the new..
Anyone else’s airbag NOT coming loose when removing those two bottoms screws (10mm). In the video, dudes is flipping around. Mine is tight and NOT moving.
Quick tip to those who are going to attempt this - remove the plastic duct work next to the door blend motor itself. It will provide you with enough room to access the top t20 screw. It’s an extra step but it will save you a ton of frustration. Cheers !
Thanks for your input! I will pin your comment so it’s the first one people see 👍🏼
Are you talking about the duct work that is for the floor heater? If so, ho do you remove that? I tried pulling on it just a little but afraid to break something! haha
The duct work is a clamshell design that comes apart at the edges. Try to squeeze your hands in there and grab both sides, they will come apart. Takes a little bit of patience but you have all the room you need once you separate the ductwork
@@Speednlux ahh ok good to know. I noticed it was split at the bottom and I was worried about breaking it. But not anymore. Thanks!
Did you have to calibrate the actuator? I just replaced mine and I guess it's not cold on drivers side still.
This video was helpful, and so were many of the comments. I agree with some other commenters who say you don't need to remove the whole lower dash panels. I was able to remove just the felt panel at the top of the footwell, the lower duct, and the 2-piece upper duct. Its actually a somewhat easy fix from there. An important point to remember is to line up the actuator gear properly with the flapper gear. Theres a larger section on the actuator gear that aligns with a larger gap on the flapper gear. Good luck everyone.....go save yourself $1,200!
TIP: if it hasnt been said i just did this now. It just needed the gear. ***The top screw, I backed out most of the way but did not remove it. I removed the bottom screw and was able to pull and swing the actuator out with plenty of room to replace the gear. Didn't even unplug the wires. Saved the frustration of getting that screw back in, just had to tighten that scew back down. Took me less than 30min to complete the job of the gear change.
Great video! The comments below helped significantly as I did not have to remove any parts other than the bottom felt with accent lights and the bottom vent. For the later, i removed the bottom and top clamp shell portion which gave be easy access to the screws. The job took less than 1 hour on my 2014 Dodge Durango. In my case the actuator failed and not the gear. The gear looked fine, so I did not replace. I have 116K miles and it's the first actuator to fail. I'm taller, so I laid on my back on the drivers side floor with my right arm behind the brake pedal for most of the job.
So did you not have to remove the airbag and all that extra stuff ? I have a 2014 Durango I need to do this to today
Everyone has great tips in the comments but I wanted to add one more. I never read the comments to see about taking the upper ducting out like a dummy. So I improvised and adapted. I knew for a fact that my gear was broken because had pieces fall down as I was taking everything apart. As we all know that top screw won’t come out without removing the upper ducting (I didn’t do that) so with the powers of observation I could tell that putting that top screw in after taking it out would be impossible. So I took the top torx screw out of the actuator about 85% of the way… enough to free it up and get it to move. I then flipped the actuator up and out of the way and put the new gear in then wiggled the actuator until it found where it wanted to be. Everything popped back together nicely and then I only had to wrestle with the bottom screw and then just tighten the top one. I’m no mechanic so it’s probably not the “preferred” method but it’s certainly another option for folks. I have heat on both sides again so I am happy. Good luck!!
Great video. Had to do this over a weekend. A couple added tips: 1) Definitely need to take out the upper duct work to get to that upper screw on the acuator. It is hard and seems like it wont come out, but it will. Break the clamshell and take out the rear first and then the front. When you put it back together, put the rear in first and then force the front part of the upper duct in. Then do your best to snap the clamshell together. 2) Reattaching the hood release cable with the kick panel doesn't work. You need to take off the hood release lever from the kick panel and then attach the cable to the handle. Then insert the handle back into the kick panel. Thanks for all your help!
Thanks dude. Did this today and took your silver screw pro-tip. Took way longer than I'd like to admit but it's all buttoned up and blowing cold air! Saved all the dollars.
Finally Replaced... The screw suggestion was the best. Thank you.
Thank you sir! Because of your video I was able to get the correct tools completing the job in about an hour. Can't thank you enough, cheers!
Thank you! Glad it could help you 👍🏼
this Video was so helpful and the only reason i attempted the repair myself. it also took me about 6 hours. i think i could do it in about half the time if i ever had to do it again. i wouldn't do it again, i would just trade the jeep in..lol...not going to lie, it was a bear to do. i am a big guy so lying under the dash was not an option. torx bit electrical taped to a 1/4" wrench was the only thing i had to fit to get the factory screws out. lots of scapes and invented swear words later and i succeeded. thanks again for the video.
excellent video. my gear broke 3 years ago, I was able to put the new gear on, but only put one of those original screws back in, and sure enough 3 days later it failed. like you said this job is the most frustrating, stupid repair I've ever done.
anyway I was without warm air for 3 winters in Michigan, I came across this video and decided to follow your steps, still frustrating AF, but like you said, if it fails again, it'll be a lot easier. thank you!
Thanks!
You are brilliant sir. Changing out that bolt/screw for that 8 x 1/2 is the best thing. I just changed out our 2011 for the second time and that will save a lot of tiny little turns. Thank you. That plastic piece seems to last 25K and then goes bad on our Jeep. Both sides that is.
Thanks man! Yeah they don’t last long and I can see why. That’s why I tried to make it easier for all of us since i know we’ll be back in there doing it again lol
Someone needs to make a mold for them to be cast out of alloy 😂
Good video, but the root cause of the problem is that the blend door rubber gasket melts/softens and causes it to stick open or closed. Once it is stuck the motor turns the gear and snaps it. This is why it happens over and over. You have to get tools into the blend door to clean away/remove the gasket that has melted. I did this on the passenger side in mine and it has not happened again - but was a huge pain to do. Won't get another jeep because of this
Thanks for the video !! Mine has the air bag. Having a hard time locating the two 10's. Is it OK to take the air bag compartment door off or does it need to stay intact?? Thanks !!
And thanks for the great video. One comment I will make is for that one screw that is the hardest to get if you remove the air sensor from the upper duct, you can pull that duct out fairly easily it may come out in two pieces, but it snaps back together pretty easily.
You’re a stud bro! Taking on this project this coming Tuesday. First video I could find worth watching. Thanks for the info!!
Thanks man! I appreciate the kind words. Let me know if you run into any issues 👍🏼
Hell yea! Short enough to keep my ADHD in check and all the angles and info i need. Also, kudos for the tips in the comments about the upper plastic piece. Im not a car guy nor do i work on them any more than just oil and brakes. Some fella told me “you can do it yourself, its super simple. you only take off one piece and its right there. No worries 😐” Super happy i checked YT first and found this video.
I just had to do this on a 2012 and I have one piece of advice, I honestly wasted too much time trying to get the hood latch cable off before I realized you can just pop the whole lever assembly out of its spot on the plastic panel by unscrewing the panel, pull it out a bit and then take a screwdriver and push it out from behind, it has a tab like the electrical connectors that you press down then slide the whole thing out of its spot on the panel. Just a tip to make the process that much faster and you don’t have to worry about putting the cable back on when you’re done!
Otherwise great video, and thanks!
I never knew that. Now I want to go check mine out to see if it’s like that lol
That is good advise if they’re all like that because you’re right, the cable is not only an extra step, it’s pretty time consuming as well.
Great information and thanks. I was just quoted $1,200.00 because of labor. Going to get all the parts and items you mentioned and others in the comments and give it a go.
Let me know if you have any questions! Love seeing people save their hard earned money on things like this that are soooo doable for the average person. I listed everything in the description that I used.
Thanks for all the tips! This made the project a lot easier. Only took 1.5 hours. A 1/4 ratcheting wrench with a t20 wrapped in Teflon tape, so the bit doesn’t slip out, worked really well for those actuator screws. Cheers!
No problem man! Glad it went smooth for you 👍🏼
Hey. Remove the top duct to access that top screw. Super easier. Duct is in two pieces and meant to come out easily. And there is a peep hole to see if the actuators are broken.
Best recommendation... #8 x 1/2", 1/4" screws!
This really sucks because I didn't know there was two of them and I was like oh and that blend door actuator is going to be easy. Found out there was two and now found out that it's going to take up my whole freaking day! Thanks for the vid though because I've never owned a Jeep so it's gonna be different
Good luck!
Thanks for going through the pain for us, and giving us such a great view, and for actually listing tools and fastener sizes! Absolutely preem.
First off… thank you, I really appreciate your walkthrough and it helped me get to the actuator…but I am still having an issue. My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee started blowing room temp air on the passenger side…driver side is fine TG, but I’m in Florida and it’s too hot to have AC issues! So I checked the blend door actuator and yes…the plastic gear broke off at the stop…and even though I didn’t need it I decided to replace both the actuator motor and the gear with new OEM parts just to be done with it for under $50. So I believe I installed the parts correctly, it can only go in one-way right? Before I installed it tho, I manually tested the door first and it moves freely…I also tested the motor and let it dangle while I powered on the car…I tried holdingon to it to see if some resistance would stop it like the gear stop is supposed to do right? Wrong…that motor did not feel like it was going to stop, or am I missing something here? Shouldn’t it stop with some resistance? Anyway…I really had no other alternative other than to just install and test it …and so I did just that and I’m pretty sure I installed it correctly…it can only go in one way right? I slipped on the gear to the inner gear 1st…with the large tooth to the large gap…then adjusted the actuator/stem to line up and screwed it down. I’m wondering if this is the point where I didn’t line it up correctly somehow. So after installing the actuator/gear and removing battery power for 30 min to recalibrate…I cranked it up and all I can hear from the actuator was a loud clicking noise like the plastic gear just sheared off the stop again! I don’t think I need to pull it off again to figure that out as its exactly the same…cold air on the driver and room temp on the passenger side. I’m puzzled as to why when I crank up the heat on the passenger side that works with no problem…it just doesn’t get cold when I crank it down! I don’t wanna give up yet my bruthas…any help would be appreciated….thx again
Super cool man, I’ve done this job twice already replacing the gear and the actuator on driver and passenger side. Glad I watched as far as I did because replacing the screws is genius. Back to the store for a third fix. Stupid plastic piece of 🤬
is there a way to know if it's the gear or the actuator that failed to order before disassembly?
Great video for such a crappy job. Thanks. You helped me out a ton. Every model is a little different and I found extra parts that needed to be removed. As someone else suggested, remove the duct next to the actuator. It makes it a lot easier to get to the screws. I’m surprised you weren’t swearing at the end. I was.
Thanks! Maybe I was swearing haha ;)
How do you remove that duct tho???
Bro @4:08 show us how u remove those 10mm bolts man
2017 Jeep Compass Actuator Arm sticking on cold and not moving to heat. Do you have a video that shows where and how to take the dash off to access the arm, clean it and lube it?
Thanks for posting, mine went out today. At least I know what the cause it. My driver side blowing the hottest air out of no where.
One of the tiduious jobs I’ve done my back hurts a good light will help 100%
Do they need adjusted? I had my driver side break. Replaced it and iv noticed my heat is hotter on the passenger side then the driver side
Is there a secret on lining up the gears once they are out?
2011 jeep grand cherokee while fixing the blend door i keep asking myself why would they put it that far and make it complicate.
When i took i the 5 bolts 4 at bottom and 1 behind steering wheel bracket i was able to bring the panel patially down but it feels like theres other bolts which i'm assumming the 2 10mm bolts you were refering to. I had trouble locating those bolts becuase in the video i can't tell where you were on the lower panel pointing out the 2 bolts. I have 2014 jeep grand cherokee limited.
It’s a pain to get to them. They are behind a bracket so it’s barely visible to the eye, let alone a camera.
@@StayOnTheGas thanks i finally got them. You're right they are a pain. Your video was really helpful thanks.
Glad you got it done. No problem 👍🏼
How do you reset Actuator? When I press key button the Actuator motor turned all the way to other end..How do I know which way it will go once its installed.
Do I need the blend door actuator or just the blend door gear?
How much is this service and a shop not dodge around about price?
Question… I just replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. This resolved hot air blowing from back vents, but still on the passenger side. Could the driver side be the issue for passenger side for some reason? It’s starting to warm up here in Maryland
How do you get the clip off of the air bag?
Thanks for this, very helpful!
No problem! 👍🏼
Do you have a favorite Jeep Owner's forum for troubleshooting advice? I own a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 Limited with 5.7L and I'm not sure the electric Rad Fan is behaving correctly. Can you do a check of operation on your Jeep and let me know? The question is: Does the electric Rad Fan come on as soon as the A/C compressor is engaged? On my car it doesn't. The Rad Fan will come on when the water temp gauge gets halfway up the scale, and cycles to maintain proper radiator temperature. Even with A/C and compressor running, the Rad Fan is not normally on. This seems wrong to me, based on previous vehicles I've owned. Without the radiator fan running, the liquid line under the hood gets FIRE hot when car is not moving. Just recently, I began hearing a hissing sound from under the dash when A/C is on. Believe this to be the sound of refrigerant flow, and wonder if system is low. My compressor runs continuously, and there is cooling, but not sure if it is normal, or under capacity. (Living in Atlanta, GA, and temps are still moderate.) Can you point me to a resource where I can learn theory and normal operation of modern A/C operation? I am familiar with "cycling clutch and fixed orifice" design from 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, but Jeep is much newer and has TXV (thermal expansion valve) located under the dash, just before the evaporator. Thanks for any ideas or suggestions. Chet
Thanks so much! This video help me get this gear fixed!
Hi ! Where did you get that screw?
I wanted to thank you for sharing this information dealership wanted to rip me off 1200.00 saying I needed a radiator thermostat and backflush I changed the gear and actuator 50.00 dollars all set
I just did it ! It is not too difficult job. The only difficulty is that I am too fat to slide inside under dash.
Nice!! Yeah it can definitely get uncomfortable but I’d rather that than to dish out more money lol
I feel like a cordless electric ratchet wrench would of zipped those right off ... ill be working on mine over the weekend .. thanks for sharing and great video !
Update .. even with your video took me about 2.5 hours .. Actuator Gear
DA1390
Same broken part... mine I had to break the flap free .. it was stuck .. the other side that the teeth grap into wiggle back and forth until it was free .. I think a air fresher vent clip broke an got wedged down in there
Yeah my favorite thing about modern mopar is most interior pices are just pull off
Wait so if the passenger side isn't getting heat it could be the passenger OR driver side gear?
Big thank you for posting this video super awesome
Glad it helps! 🫡
Thanks for the full walk through, most videos were started mid project
Thank you!
Yeah I noticed that so I tried to start the video as early in the process as I could!
Thank You Buddy ;)
Have a wonderful day and holidays season (#)
Live Long and Prosperous :D
Thank you!
We’ll you said it, this sucked but I did it. Back in action now!
Great video! Very very helpful! But do you realize you didn’t show the actual broken part being replaced?
I have a loud clicking sound when I open the door, but the heat and cold blow fine, I’ve checked the passenger side and there are no problems
Have a 2013 jeep pattiot latitude. Dealership said they dont do actuators onlymhousing $470 crazy!!
I have a 2012 grand Cherokee that is blowing air off the engine on driver side but AC and heat work fine on passenger side and back. What do I need to change out to fix this?
Did you ever find the issue ? I’m now having this issue where the passenger side works perfectly fine but the driver side doesn’t blow the same it mostly stays cool even with heater on
Easier to just change the actuator itself ?
I’m having trouble with the top gear being in a back position and not lining up with the gear attached to my actuator. I can’t seem to move it so the two gears line up. Anyone know this fix?
Did you ever figure out how to fix it ? I have the same problem.!?
I just replaced this driver side gear on my wifes WK2 Hemi and that was a P.I.T.A I swore the whole time 😂 now that I seen the duct work next to the screws comes off like a clam shell I will be two times as fast when I inevitably have to replace it again. Also I sprayed a little bit of lithium grease where the gear goes in for luck I guess to lubricate the blend door 🤷🏽♂️ I read that's why they snap is from friction/resistanfe against the gear. Stupid design nonethless 🎉
Can anyone clarify how to remove (or if I even need to remove) the airbag panel that is down by the drivers knees? I have replaced the actuator in a 2011 (both sides) and when I was doing a 2014 I noticed there was an airbag in that lower panel. Is that lower panel one whole piece or does the airbag part stay? I see in the video there are several 10 mm bolts to be removed, but I'm not sure how the panel comes out. I don't want to yank or pull on it that much and I'm little nervous to continuing until I understand this part...thanks in advance
Having the same problem
It comes off together but you have to get the right nuts off
Hi do you need to disconnect the battery terminal when removing the airbag panel to gain access to the actuator?
What if replacing the gear don’t work?
Is it the same actuator and gear for both sides?
Mines giving out on the driver side and failed on passenger side. Hoping I can just grab a two pack and get both sides done.
Yep! Same thing on both sides. I have a video for the other side as well. Good luck 👍🏼
@@StayOnTheGas you know if it's common for the actuators to fail and not just the gear? Based on the labored sound the driver side is making I'm assuming it's more the actuator motor than the gear...
So I’ve heard people say always replace the actuator and the gear at the same time but I’m cheap and only did the gears lol. My actuators make noise from time to time too but I’ll dish out the $200 for both of them next time the gears break.
@@StayOnTheGas $200? Im looking on amazon at one right now for $15. I am really confused though if I need to replace the gear and actuator and haven't found guidance on how to determine that. Driver's side only blows heat, non-stop clicking noise.
200 for the actuators. They’re roughly 100 a pop for OEM ones. I’d check to see if your gear is still in good shape. If it is then it’s your actuator probably.
The plastic gear brakes because the door itself has a soft rubber seal that gets hot and won't let the door operate
I have a 2014 limited with the airbag option and I see 4 bolts
I have a 2014 too and also noticed 4 bolts. Now that I have the panel off, you only need to remove the outer 2. The inner 2 are connected to the airbag assembly. I believe the outer 2 are 10mm.
did you have to calibrate??? my low is heat and my high is cold
No, you don’t have to calibrate it. Make sure that it’s lined up 100% correct. The big wide tooth goes in the big wide slot and you should be good to go.
So… how do I remove the hood latch cable? Can’t seem to do it
Nevermind, figured it out
Good work
Thanks!
You never said how to take off the upper ducting. And how to unclip the air bag too !!
Just replaced it and my acuator just goes in cirlce and ends up breaking the teeth on the gear??
Oh man. My guess is that the teeth weren’t lined up correctly. You have to be very careful because there’s only one way it goes and it could easily move
Thanks for all the info! What was the wrench kit you order from Amazon?
No problem! The link to it is in the bio 👍🏼
GREAT, GREAT Video, But if you just quickly "pop out" the driver seat (4 easy 15mm bolts / 2 plug ports for pwr. seat), THEN you can lie down, pop that airway duct out, and BOTH SCREWS then / are easily accessible. *("Your ways a good way as well"). :- )
You and everyone else doing this job aren't calibrating (synchronize) the blend doors after you change them!
That's why the fail a second time. The actuator throw must match the door throw (arc) or they will bind and bust the gears. Nothing to do with outside temp.
You need a scan tool (Chrysler) to do this.
Clearly stated in Dorman's packaging.
Not sure about the cheap Chinese shit off of Ebay?
Thank you sir
My situation is different, driver side blows only cold air and passenger and the back blow hot air especially passenger it's super hot and won't blow cold.
It’s the other side then. I have a video on that too
Oh okay so it would have to be fixed through the passenger side? By taking glove compartment out? Thanks so much for answering this has been such a hassle figuring out!
Yes exactly! If you watch my video you’ll see what I mean. It’s actually easier 👍🏼
I just replace mine about 2 weeks ago and i didnt need to remove none of that stuff i just look up under there right next to the steering wheel and it was there big as day. It took me less than 30 mins to pop out the old and pop in the new..
What trim do you have?
Anyone knows what’s the problem causing this gear broke?
I know here they say it’s because of the weather changing throughout the seasons that get the plastic brittle
Wow guess Imma be driving in the heat for a bit
Well that sure didn't look easy!
Looks like it took you like an hour to get that one screw out.
Too bad someone can't make those cog/sprockets out of aluminum instead of plastic.
I’ve been saying this!
Anyone else’s airbag NOT coming loose when removing those two bottoms screws (10mm). In the video, dudes is flipping around. Mine is tight and NOT moving.
You probably took the wrong nuts off. They’re hard to get to and point out
can'T remove the stupid airbag bolt
What I really want to know is, did anyone else burn the shit out of their hand on those silver pipes. Or was it just me
A little 😂
The light bulb too I’m used to shut burning me
This job was definitely hard as fuck. If it breaks again I’m a trade the jeep in fuck it lol amazing video tho very helpful 💯
pull your pants up
No F-IN WAY...!!!!
Click onmpassenger side !