@@mathieupellieux9468 Amazing! Such an iconic weapon, good luck with the build, any questions shoot them over and I will try and help. I'm by no means "the authority" on larp weapons but I've made plenty of mistakes so happy to try and help where I can.
This is amazing, astonishing work! I'm about to make some Empire greatswords (one Dawnish and one with some League flair!) - did a 12mm core end up being sufficient or would you use a larger diameter core if you did it again?
@nutcasefilms6040 12mm is great. It's a noticeable difference from a 10mm or 8mm core. For a great weapon was certainly sufficient. I've not made a polarm yet but that'll be next so for something like that it may need 1 up from 12mm as all the weight will be in the tip of the spear or hellbard head but something that's got a nice spread of weight like this 12mm is absolutely sufficient. Good luck with the build!
@thehermitworkshop2913 many thanks! I got a quarter of the way through a polehammer before the system I was making it for closed, so I'm very excited to see what you come up with!
How would you make a Khopesh? Its my favorite sword but i can never find a good video of how to make it. My larp has banned PVC and only allows fiberglass rods, graphite kite spurs, graphite golf club with the head removed of course, and bamboo
This looks incredible. I’m thinking of trying my hand at building a larp weapon and am curious how the grip/hilt holds up. I’ve seen different methods (like rolling the foam around the core then wrapping with electrical tape) and am not sure what’s most secure.
Wrapping is really good. I thiiiiink i did this on an older weapon maybe the witcher sword. But i do that more often than the method in this video with the full pattern. I have found the main thing is to give the core a proper good rough sand with low grit paper. Then also allow the contact adhesive at least 12 hours to cure properly overnight after a heavy roll and press. I also clamp the weapon between 2 planks of wood overnight night whilst it cures. This has made a noticeable difference in the durability of the weapons. I will often wrap the hilt in hockey tape rather than electrical tape as this has a nice texture for whatever goes on top to grip to like pleather or whatever you fancied or can even leave it as the tape as this has good grip and durability.
Hey trying to make my own montonte, looked at the Carbon fiber pole you used but I'm based in the US, could you tell me more about its type so I can figure out what you used? So far I'm guessing the one used here is the 12mm x 8mm unidirection, am I right?
I get it from Polycraft. Foam is 10mm and 2mm Polyprops CF 65 and Craft foam www.poly-props.com/craft-foam There are other UK suppliers of foam but depends where you are based really.
@shan9usfc i personally have not managed to master a technique, and there is a lot of gate keeping online for this topic, sadly. Elysiun forge makes a curved core. I am not entirely sure how they do this, but this video kind of covers the potential pitfalls. ua-cam.com/video/arT7WyY-V28/v-deo.htmlsi=a-jDCH5WIkk62vn- There is someone at my local larp who has mastered the curved core. I will try and pin them down and see if they can share their method.
Any tips on working with Isoflex? Trying my hand at larp weapon making since I have cosplay prop experience. All I know is Isoflex will cure once opened and to batch make weapons, which just seems like such a shame for such an expensive product!! 😭😭😭
sorry not to reply sooner. It is a bit of an issue with Isoflex I must say. Sometimes I can get it to last a good 6 months if I seal the tins with 3 or 4 metal tin clips. These can be bought for quite cheap I also use vinyl tape on the tins to try and reduce additional air seeping in. Its not perfect and won't last mega long but it helps.
I'm afraid I don't know of any specific suppliers. Its EVA foam or Ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer foam it is a high density foam. Its comes in different density levels the higher the density the harder it is but the easier it is to cut, sand and add details
just a quick question, you mention using Isoflex, what is that? because when I look it up all I'm getting is whey protein which doesn't exactly say "don't get this on your skin" if it's something you drink :/
Isoflex is a brand of liquid roofing rubber here in the UK and I think Europe. I use the clear special primer as a sealant for the latex. This is really intense nasty stuff so definitely not the whey protein you have found. Here is a link to retailer in the UK as a reference shorturl.at/iKQV1 . Your best bet is to use a clear plastidip though if you can't find it locally. There may be other clear liquid rubber solutions out there.... Isoflex doesn't eat the latex though so be careful as other brand might. People have had good results with Platidip.
No, i would not recommend this. Bamboo although flexible and strong would not have the durability that is necessary for the contact of larp combat. Weapons can easily get snagged and pulled in more extreme ways that you'd anticipate with normal fighting. Rule of thumb I use is if you can bend and snap the core by hand holding each ends then its unsuitable for a core. Daggers are much shorter and therefore can have thinner cores that if 1m long would likely be snap able by hand but due to being only 30cm long they're fine. Likewise with spears and polarms. These being much longer would also need to be thicker to remain durable. Flexibility is great but carbon fibre and fibre glass also have a great level of rigidity as well. A cheaper option for a one off build is a carbon fibre golf club. Keep an eye out for these in thrift shops and on ebay etc. I made my first 4 swords from club sicks and they're still going strong 6 years on.
A lot of time is spent letting things dry to be fair. Lots of layers and stages. So day 1 is cutting the basic shape and glueing this to the core. This then needs 12 to 24 hours to properly cure before sanding pr cutting into the "blank" so to speak. This can take a few minutes to hours depending on the detail or finish you're after. This is when you can add details like the skuls and other bits. Then, usually, I coat the whole thing in the thinned contact adhesive and let this cure again overnight. So already 2 days and 2 nights but perhaps about 5 hours of actual working time, i did some flip flopping with the making and details so took a little longer plus filming it all adds to my time. But with a clear plan and focus its only a few hours at this stage. Then once the contact adhesive layer has cured overnight it needs 5 to 7 layers of latex. If applying with an airgun, then this is quicker but with a brush its about 10 minutes of application then perhaos 4 hours between layers and then an overnight again for the top coat. Then paint the finishing colours so however long you wanna spend here. Layers of thin paint gives a nicer finish, so this can take time. Then top coat of isoflex needs 12 hours to cure. Then you're done. So the process is over about 5 days. And the hours involved vary depending on details and finishes your after or how skilled and experienced you are with painte and i guess foam smithing. Can get several weapons done over the same time but most of the time is drying time for the materials.
Interesting, would you send a link? I'm curious to see it, does it have teeth and bones? I didn't intend for the final design to directly copy anything. The initial template was really simple as you can see is that what you mean by copied? This was based off of one of Calimacil's designs for their flambard sword for the proportions and was a request from my friend so the rough size and shape were something that came from that. I didn't really plan the details it just kind of evolved. But obviously being part of the community I am immersed in LARP weapons, designs, ideas etc so the skulls, bones and teeth could easily have been something I clocked and replicated without meaning to. Either way, this video is more about the process of making something LARP safe and large and sharing that process so others can potentially create their own if they want.
I've added a note and link to the Calimacil weapon that I used as a template for this weapon in the description. As I say this came as part of a request from a friend for size/shape and this item was not a paid commission, (I don't take paid commissions generally) I am not trying to palm this off as my own design. The video is to show the process and share my method for making LARP-safe weapons. I would still love to see the link if it's the details that you believe have been copied as this genuinely was unplanned and was quite a random process. Thank you for your comment.
Wish I saw that before my first nightmare attempt of Larp sword. Now I have to try it again.
What happened?
Congrats for the awesome work. I'll rethink my project viewing yours.
Thank you! What are you working on?
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Skyrim Steel greatsword for my son. The architecture is very similar
@@mathieupellieux9468 Amazing! Such an iconic weapon, good luck with the build, any questions shoot them over and I will try and help. I'm by no means "the authority" on larp weapons but I've made plenty of mistakes so happy to try and help where I can.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Thanks, Starting this week-end
Another amazing video, best weapon tutorials on youtube! Love if you'd do an amour one sometime. Many many thanks!
He hath return!!
HA! Thank you for the comment made me smile.
After the glue up, it looked like the world’s most dangerous Oreo.
Great Job mate well done!
Thank you!!! slow to upload new material but should get a few more videos out over winter.
Great looking sword that! Very killy
Thank you Sam, I think it is quite killy.
I love this. It looks like a sword from Warhammer Fantasy
Thank you! That's a great compliment! Some excellent weapons from the fantasy game, particularly the older gens that hinted more towards the absurd.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Should try making a replica of Ghal Maraz from WHF, that'd be a pretty cool prop
@spinaljuice4596 not a bad shout. I'm up for the challenge.
This is amazing, astonishing work! I'm about to make some Empire greatswords (one Dawnish and one with some League flair!) - did a 12mm core end up being sufficient or would you use a larger diameter core if you did it again?
@nutcasefilms6040 12mm is great. It's a noticeable difference from a 10mm or 8mm core. For a great weapon was certainly sufficient. I've not made a polarm yet but that'll be next so for something like that it may need 1 up from 12mm as all the weight will be in the tip of the spear or hellbard head but something that's got a nice spread of weight like this 12mm is absolutely sufficient. Good luck with the build!
@thehermitworkshop2913 many thanks! I got a quarter of the way through a polehammer before the system I was making it for closed, so I'm very excited to see what you come up with!
How would you make a Khopesh? Its my favorite sword but i can never find a good video of how to make it. My larp has banned PVC and only allows fiberglass rods, graphite kite spurs, graphite golf club with the head removed of course, and bamboo
I MISSED YOU SO MUCH
That's so kind. Thank you for your comment.
Awesome work as ever!
Thanks very much!
This looks incredible. I’m thinking of trying my hand at building a larp weapon and am curious how the grip/hilt holds up. I’ve seen different methods (like rolling the foam around the core then wrapping with electrical tape) and am not sure what’s most secure.
Wrapping is really good. I thiiiiink i did this on an older weapon maybe the witcher sword. But i do that more often than the method in this video with the full pattern. I have found the main thing is to give the core a proper good rough sand with low grit paper. Then also allow the contact adhesive at least 12 hours to cure properly overnight after a heavy roll and press. I also clamp the weapon between 2 planks of wood overnight night whilst it cures. This has made a noticeable difference in the durability of the weapons. I will often wrap the hilt in hockey tape rather than electrical tape as this has a nice texture for whatever goes on top to grip to like pleather or whatever you fancied or can even leave it as the tape as this has good grip and durability.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 This is great information; thanks so much!
That's a badass weapon fam. 👍🏿💯🔥🔥🔥
Hey trying to make my own montonte, looked at the Carbon fiber pole you used but I'm based in the US, could you tell me more about its type so I can figure out what you used? So far I'm guessing the one used here is the 12mm x 8mm unidirection, am I right?
Do weapons like this maybe work for something like amtgaurd>?
Very good!
Thanks El
Hi what thinner do you use for thixofix?
Where do you get your foam at? I’m new to this and would love to get into it
I get it from Polycraft. Foam is 10mm and 2mm Polyprops CF 65 and Craft foam
www.poly-props.com/craft-foam There are other UK suppliers of foam but depends where you are based really.
is there a way to bend a core to make scimitars or curved swords?
@shan9usfc i personally have not managed to master a technique, and there is a lot of gate keeping online for this topic, sadly.
Elysiun forge makes a curved core. I am not entirely sure how they do this, but this video kind of covers the potential pitfalls.
ua-cam.com/video/arT7WyY-V28/v-deo.htmlsi=a-jDCH5WIkk62vn-
There is someone at my local larp who has mastered the curved core. I will try and pin them down and see if they can share their method.
incredible!!!
Any tips on working with Isoflex? Trying my hand at larp weapon making since I have cosplay prop experience. All I know is Isoflex will cure once opened and to batch make weapons, which just seems like such a shame for such an expensive product!! 😭😭😭
sorry not to reply sooner. It is a bit of an issue with Isoflex I must say. Sometimes I can get it to last a good 6 months if I seal the tins with 3 or 4 metal tin clips. These can be bought for quite cheap I also use vinyl tape on the tins to try and reduce additional air seeping in. Its not perfect and won't last mega long but it helps.
Thank you very much for the tutorial! You have inspired me a lot to do my projects! all the best!
Thank you for taking the time to comment! Glad the video could be helpful!
Are there any suppliers for this foam in South america?? Or the especific name to find it in local stores?
I'm afraid I don't know of any specific suppliers. Its EVA foam or Ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer foam it is a high density foam. Its comes in different density levels the higher the density the harder it is but the easier it is to cut, sand and add details
Price for making it?
Where do you get your carbon fiber tubes
After a few places, i have settled for a company called "Plastock" here in the UK. Pretty good price for the lengths. Lots of thicknesses.
Sooooo Monster suits next?
YES
just a quick question, you mention using Isoflex, what is that? because when I look it up all I'm getting is whey protein which doesn't exactly say "don't get this on your skin" if it's something you drink :/
Isoflex is a brand of liquid roofing rubber here in the UK and I think Europe. I use the clear special primer as a sealant for the latex. This is really intense nasty stuff so definitely not the whey protein you have found. Here is a link to retailer in the UK as a reference shorturl.at/iKQV1 . Your best bet is to use a clear plastidip though if you can't find it locally. There may be other clear liquid rubber solutions out there.... Isoflex doesn't eat the latex though so be careful as other brand might. People have had good results with Platidip.
Can you use bamboo as a core?
No, i would not recommend this. Bamboo although flexible and strong would not have the durability that is necessary for the contact of larp combat. Weapons can easily get snagged and pulled in more extreme ways that you'd anticipate with normal fighting. Rule of thumb I use is if you can bend and snap the core by hand holding each ends then its unsuitable for a core. Daggers are much shorter and therefore can have thinner cores that if 1m long would likely be snap able by hand but due to being only 30cm long they're fine. Likewise with spears and polarms. These being much longer would also need to be thicker to remain durable. Flexibility is great but carbon fibre and fibre glass also have a great level of rigidity as well. A cheaper option for a one off build is a carbon fibre golf club. Keep an eye out for these in thrift shops and on ebay etc. I made my first 4 swords from club sicks and they're still going strong 6 years on.
@thehermitworkshop2913 thanks for the tip 👍
How would one order a commission set which is Empire legal and do you do stab safe?
Scratch that I have found the Etsy shop
Will be in touch 😁
Currently not in the workshop or able to get in, but hope to be back at things soon. Please feel free to get in touch via etsy or Instagram
How long did this take to make?
A lot of time is spent letting things dry to be fair. Lots of layers and stages. So day 1 is cutting the basic shape and glueing this to the core. This then needs 12 to 24 hours to properly cure before sanding pr cutting into the "blank" so to speak. This can take a few minutes to hours depending on the detail or finish you're after. This is when you can add details like the skuls and other bits. Then, usually, I coat the whole thing in the thinned contact adhesive and let this cure again overnight. So already 2 days and 2 nights but perhaps about 5 hours of actual working time, i did some flip flopping with the making and details so took a little longer plus filming it all adds to my time. But with a clear plan and focus its only a few hours at this stage. Then once the contact adhesive layer has cured overnight it needs 5 to 7 layers of latex. If applying with an airgun, then this is quicker but with a brush its about 10 minutes of application then perhaos 4 hours between layers and then an overnight again for the top coat. Then paint the finishing colours so however long you wanna spend here. Layers of thin paint gives a nicer finish, so this can take time. Then top coat of isoflex needs 12 hours to cure. Then you're done. So the process is over about 5 days. And the hours involved vary depending on details and finishes your after or how skilled and experienced you are with painte and i guess foam smithing. Can get several weapons done over the same time but most of the time is drying time for the materials.
Love that you just straight up copied an existing LARP sword lol
Interesting, would you send a link? I'm curious to see it, does it have teeth and bones? I didn't intend for the final design to directly copy anything. The initial template was really simple as you can see is that what you mean by copied? This was based off of one of Calimacil's designs for their flambard sword for the proportions and was a request from my friend so the rough size and shape were something that came from that. I didn't really plan the details it just kind of evolved. But obviously being part of the community I am immersed in LARP weapons, designs, ideas etc so the skulls, bones and teeth could easily have been something I clocked and replicated without meaning to. Either way, this video is more about the process of making something LARP safe and large and sharing that process so others can potentially create their own if they want.
I've added a note and link to the Calimacil weapon that I used as a template for this weapon in the description. As I say this came as part of a request from a friend for size/shape and this item was not a paid commission, (I don't take paid commissions generally) I am not trying to palm this off as my own design. The video is to show the process and share my method for making LARP-safe weapons. I would still love to see the link if it's the details that you believe have been copied as this genuinely was unplanned and was quite a random process. Thank you for your comment.
@thehermitworkshop2913 how dod you blow up a template that big? What size template would I need?
how much for a dark sister?? from house of dragon, id like to think i could make it but if you could do it id pay
'PromoSM' 🤩