Hi, to make the explanation simpler, the saturation slider in capture one is actually vibrance-like, so you basically do not need that one. If you wish to find a balance between well saturated colors and the ones that need a boost, use the Saturation slider in the Exposure tool.
Many thanks for one of THE best tutorials I've ever seen. You both provided so much information in such a readily digestible fashion that I believe my brain has put on weight. : )) Seriously though, this was a veritable gold mine. I'm sure I'll be going back to it again and again for information and inspiration. Slainte !
Great session guys. I picked up a few things. It is really nice to see CO doing a session that is NOT iPad/tether related. As a landscape/non iPad guy I have been skipping a lot of sessions lately. And very important... eat some Huckelberry ice cream while in Yellowstone. Alan in NM
Very useful session, thank you. I am engaged in a substantial amount of post-processing at the moment and was able to start applying some of this stuff straight away.
One quick comment at 35 minutes in. If you create a mask and then click on Luma Range, you can toggle the mask on/off from there by checking the Display Mask box. However, if you're in Luma Range and you want to see the grayscale mask, you can't get there directly. Pressing Alt/Option-M on the keyboard while Luma Range is open won't work. Best to display the grayscale mask first THEN click Luma Range. Also a reminder that you can change the mask colour. Masking a red object with a red mask can get a little confusing.
One more thing. Paul has twice mentioned automask. Unlike Lr, C1 has always had a bug in automask in that the selection area is a circle. EVERYTHING inside that circle gets selected. Try this: Create a simple 5 or 6-pointed white star on a black background. Mask JUST the star using automask. You can't do it. With the magic brush tool now, yes you can.
Two more reasons to use a layer when using the Skin Tone tool: First, you can't delete a picked colour (unlike in the advanced colour editor). You can, if necessary, set all of the sliders to zero (or delete the layer). Second (as David mentioned), if you pick a different tone, it replaces the first (unless you use layers).
Is there a way to enter the RGB codes directly? For example, the client wants a very specific shade of red…rather than messing around trying to get close, it would be nice to ender the RGB or HEX code directly and then begin to adjust.
I often use the create layer option in the color editor tool... Never knew it was considered a hidden tool until now!! It's a great tool for many different situations where you want to isolate a color that is scattered about the image....
Hm, I'm following along and can't seem to get the layered mask work. I have the background on my image masked (i.e. that's the 'red' part), and the adjustment layer selected, but when I move the colour sliders it takes effect on the whole image, not just the masked area. What am I missing?
Resolved. In case anyone else is wondering the same, the "View selected range" option will show the colour range across the entire image. If you unselect that, you can work on the masked area only, changes will not take effect outside of the mask.
Hello, I tried using the free capture one for fuji but I'm stuck. I can't seem to export my edited files into photoshop or even saving a tiff file onto my hard drive. So this problem is putting me off using C1. Any advise please from you or your viewers would be very very helpful. Thanks a lot.
The dedicated Saturation slider (under "exposure" tab) works much like a Vibrance tool. The saturation slider in the advanced colour editor is more of a pure saturation tool - so it kind of does, but not in the way you may be used to 🙂
I've noticed that the both of you default to desaturation. I'm not sure if I've ever watched a tutorial where you DON'T desaturate. I guess I was badly bitten by the very saturated Velvia/Provia (I think) 1980's Eric Meola images. Obviously this is always an opinion but I almost always add saturation to my images.
Did you not notice the the yellow-hatchet-job we did on the rapeseed field especially for saturation fans? 😂😎 In all seriousness - they key is to take the image to what you saw. If you saw the scene more saturated than the camera captured, then go for it - and the Colour Editor tool will help you to do it selectively 👍
Chapters have been added to this video so you can skip ahead to relevant parts.
Hi, to make the explanation simpler, the saturation slider in capture one is actually vibrance-like, so you basically do not need that one. If you wish to find a balance between well saturated colors and the ones that need a boost, use the Saturation slider in the Exposure tool.
Many thanks for one of THE best tutorials I've ever seen. You both provided so much information in such a readily digestible fashion that I believe my brain has put on weight. : )) Seriously though, this was a veritable gold mine. I'm sure I'll be going back to it again and again for information and inspiration. Slainte !
Thanks Bruce. You are very welcome. /David
Great session guys. I picked up a few things. It is really nice to see CO doing a session that is NOT iPad/tether related. As a landscape/non iPad guy I have been skipping a lot of sessions lately.
And very important... eat some Huckelberry ice cream while in Yellowstone.
Alan in NM
Hey Alan! Well, I tried some "all natural" Huckleberry Red-Vines (alike) out in Columbia Falls, MT the other week - they were... Interesting... 😂
Very useful session, thank you. I am engaged in a substantial amount of post-processing at the moment and was able to start applying some of this stuff straight away.
Great to hear that! Glad it's helped 👍
One quick comment at 35 minutes in. If you create a mask and then click on Luma Range, you can toggle the mask on/off from there by checking the Display Mask box. However, if you're in Luma Range and you want to see the grayscale mask, you can't get there directly. Pressing Alt/Option-M on the keyboard while Luma Range is open won't work. Best to display the grayscale mask first THEN click Luma Range. Also a reminder that you can change the mask colour. Masking a red object with a red mask can get a little confusing.
One more thing. Paul has twice mentioned automask. Unlike Lr, C1 has always had a bug in automask in that the selection area is a circle. EVERYTHING inside that circle gets selected. Try this: Create a simple 5 or 6-pointed white star on a black background. Mask JUST the star using automask. You can't do it. With the magic brush tool now, yes you can.
Two more reasons to use a layer when using the Skin Tone tool: First, you can't delete a picked colour (unlike in the advanced colour editor). You can, if necessary, set all of the sliders to zero (or delete the layer). Second (as David mentioned), if you pick a different tone, it replaces the first (unless you use layers).
Is there a way to enter the RGB codes directly? For example, the client wants a very specific shade of red…rather than messing around trying to get close, it would be nice to ender the RGB or HEX code directly and then begin to adjust.
I think you need to stop talking to yourselves, and organise your communication logically😮
I often use the create layer option in the color editor tool... Never knew it was considered a hidden tool until now!! It's a great tool for many different situations where you want to isolate a color that is scattered about the image....
Hm, I'm following along and can't seem to get the layered mask work. I have the background on my image masked (i.e. that's the 'red' part), and the adjustment layer selected, but when I move the colour sliders it takes effect on the whole image, not just the masked area. What am I missing?
Resolved. In case anyone else is wondering the same, the "View selected range" option will show the colour range across the entire image. If you unselect that, you can work on the masked area only, changes will not take effect outside of the mask.
Thanks for a wonderful session. Lots of learning. Cheers
You're welcome! /David
Another great session of knowledge sharing. I really enjoyed the tag team banter and would like to see more.
Thanks Noel! We plan to do so. :). /David
Hello, I tried using the free capture one for fuji but I'm stuck. I can't seem to export my edited files into photoshop or even saving a tiff file onto my hard drive. So this problem is putting me off using C1. Any advise please from you or your viewers would be very very helpful. Thanks a lot.
Why capture one don’t have : vibrance ? actually what is the difference between saturation & vibrance
The dedicated Saturation slider (under "exposure" tab) works much like a Vibrance tool. The saturation slider in the advanced colour editor is more of a pure saturation tool - so it kind of does, but not in the way you may be used to 🙂
@@Paulreiffer thank you 🙏
Great session
Thank you, Alejandro! Stay tuned for more 😉
Thanks for this. Such a good session and always learn more from David and Paul. Based in Western Australia difficult to watch live due to time zone.
Great tutorial, very useful, please do more classes like this
Excellent video, thank you!
Two handsome guys! Thanks!
I've noticed that the both of you default to desaturation. I'm not sure if I've ever watched a tutorial where you DON'T desaturate. I guess I was badly bitten by the very saturated Velvia/Provia (I think) 1980's Eric Meola images. Obviously this is always an opinion but I almost always add saturation to my images.
Did you not notice the the yellow-hatchet-job we did on the rapeseed field especially for saturation fans? 😂😎
In all seriousness - they key is to take the image to what you saw. If you saw the scene more saturated than the camera captured, then go for it - and the Colour Editor tool will help you to do it selectively 👍
Thanks
I don't see a chat option in UA-cam
Hi Michiana. The chat is only active when the broadcast is live.
@@CaptureOne Okay, It looked live. Sorry
Good session
Thanks! We're happy to hear you've enjoyed it.