Excellent video. The pollarding makes sense when considering the impact grazing animals can have on the environment. And not a bad way to spend a day as well.
I used to coppice hazel at the height of about five feet in order to keep the majority of deer from eating the regenerating shoots, and referred to it as copparding. The advantage was that if other trees are similarly cut (as in your willow) and thinned you end up with pollards, whereas once the new shoots are above grazing height they can be treated a traditional coppice.
Had to go back and watch the other vid on this topic, must have missed it. Good info! There is some mention in the comments about hedging. Back in the day willow and privet were bought here to Aus by European settlers, privet especially being used as a live fence/hedge on cattle and sheep properties in some areas. Due to thier coppicing nature they became an invasive species. Privet, with its high seed yield after coppicing (whether by pruning or stock grazing), can form almost impenetrable thickets in paddocks and along riparian zones. Easy to see that when done properly, coppicing and pollarding could produce a substantial amount of useful timber.Was interesting to hear of the historical commercial reasons behind the two techniques. Thanks for the info! Do you do this sort of thing for work?
It's often the way that early settlers brought in plants that they were familiar with from their home countries which then became invasive. Hedging over here is often based on Hawthorn mixed with other species which due to the thorns makes a very good barrier if managed well. I studied nature conservation years ago but It's more of a hobby these days.
The tree that your at when you say hurdle weaving how long did it take to produce that growth ? I'm American if I Google wooden clog I'm going to get nothing but wooden shoe's ! So if you don't mind what is a wooden clog ?
The regrowth on that willow was two years for the thicker stems and one year for the thinner stems. Willow is very good for coppicing. Wooden clogs are in fact shoes and were often used in boggy areas before waterproof shoes were widely available.
Hello, this is the native European hazel Corylus avellana that was used to develop the cultivated version. One of the best ways if you have established shrubs is through layering where you bend over the stems and peg the stem onto the ground and partly cover it with soil. It can then establish roots and shoot up a side shoot that will become a new stem. At that point you can cut the bent over stem and you will have a new plant.
By looking at the height of polling, you can tell the livestock that were kept around it. We generally poll at about five feet, because our wooded land is only grazed (and browsed) by sheep. Where our cattle have access in a few areas, the poll height is around seven feet.
Absolutely Fabulous area you are working in. See many neglected coppices in the UK it's a bit of a shame. Been thinking of planting and coppicing some willow here for baskets. I like to use pine roots around willow spokes ( they probably aren't called spokes😂). Great video Trev.
I have roe deer regularly grazing my acres, so I always pollard my many willlows, and put brash over my coppiced hazels and chestnut. I've noticed that deer leave the coppiced alder alone though. BTW, I've been using a small, 18v cordless Makita topping chainsaw for the thicker timbers, as over the years you will develop RSI and it's painful. Also, what weight is your Rinaldi? I like the thinness of the blade. Thankyou.
The head weight is around 750g, I got mine on eBay from a seller based in Italy. Here is a link to their store but they only seem to have slightly lighter axes at the moment. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363844162219?hash=item54b6cd52ab:g:cLkAAOSwQfFihi9m
Same technique for when harvesting timber for firewood pre coal. There’d be forest of a few rows and work each row and then back to the first row when fully grown again. So harvested rather than cut down thus keeping the forest for us, wildlife and flora
@@bundufundi I’m no expert but I remember seeing this on TV a few years back but can’t remember what program it was. Yes definitely regarding nature and the wider benefits
There were coppices actively harvested for energy in the UK right up til the late 1940s when the confluence of the proliferation of modern technology and shortage of agricultural labor finished them off. I know there is video currently hosted on the British Pathe' youtube channel of some horticultural practices where they documented one of the last coppice workers and i believe that was filmed in 48 or 49. There's also some war-era films from a few years earlier documenting hedge laying with a farmer and Land Girl.
If I were to cut half of those new shoots that appear after coppicing, would the remaining branches be thicker as a result? Or would the tree just grow more of the shoots
Do you have any knowledge of using this techniques to produce wooded arrow shafts en-mass? Sounds like it would be great! We have sweet gum trees (Liquidambar styraciflua) down here which respond well to this technique.
I have not got any experience of Liquidambar but if it coppices well then it should produce a full set of arrow shafts of even size within the first year. It would be interesting to know how you get on if you try it.
I live in Canada and bought a tree a long time ago and it had been Pollarded . It has deep red small leaves and I cant remember the name. Anyway over time it has grown up and out. So to get it back to a nice tight shape do have a video on doing that?
Hello, Beech are sometimes pollarded in towns but often don’t take to it as well as other trees. Particularly if it is an old and well established tree. It may be better to prune back by about 25% if you want a reduction if that would work in your situation.
I really like these types of videos. Pollarding in towns and cities is now also being used to stop trees interfering with 5G signals. Question for you please, how do you find the Ventile Hilltrek gear? From a perspective of water resistance, breathability and durability, including durability outdoors, with brambles and scrub bush etc?
I really like ventile gear. I have the double layer smock which is waterproof due to the double layer, it gets stiff when wet which feels different to modern materials until you get used to it. I have found it to be much more durable than nylon based alternatives and have also found mine to be quite breathable. It is definitely heavier than others but for what I use it for that is not a problem.
@@bundufundi I currently use waxed cotton for outdoor jackets. Heavy carried, but worn I find them fine. Hardwaring. I went all in with synthetics a few years ago but didn't like it. Only a couple of bits of running kit and two pairs of fvallraven trousers left. Only relatively recently found out about ventile. The read ups of it sound perfect. Thank you for your real world perspective.
Good to see Julian Assange doing well
I get coppicing and pollarding mixed up, so thanks for the explanation. One is down low, other is higher up the trunk. :)
Excellent video. The pollarding makes sense when considering the impact grazing animals can have on the environment. And not a bad way to spend a day as well.
Thanks Joey, hard to beat a day in the woods.
Thank you for covering this. Makes sense now.
This is highly interesting. Much appreciated. Thanks!
I used to coppice hazel at the height of about five feet in order to keep the majority of deer from eating the regenerating shoots, and referred to it as copparding. The advantage was that if other trees are similarly cut (as in your willow) and thinned you end up with pollards, whereas once the new shoots are above grazing height they can be treated a traditional coppice.
Well done. Thank you for answering the questions i have .
Had to go back and watch the other vid on this topic, must have missed it. Good info! There is some mention in the comments about hedging. Back in the day willow and privet were bought here to Aus by European settlers, privet especially being used as a live fence/hedge on cattle and sheep properties in some areas. Due to thier coppicing nature they became an invasive species. Privet, with its high seed yield after coppicing (whether by pruning or stock grazing), can form almost impenetrable thickets in paddocks and along riparian zones. Easy to see that when done properly, coppicing and pollarding could produce a substantial amount of useful timber.Was interesting to hear of the historical commercial reasons behind the two techniques. Thanks for the info! Do you do this sort of thing for work?
It's often the way that early settlers brought in plants that they were familiar with from their home countries which then became invasive. Hedging over here is often based on Hawthorn mixed with other species which due to the thorns makes a very good barrier if managed well. I studied nature conservation years ago but It's more of a hobby these days.
Well done 👏
Boa tarde amigo que lugar lindo
Obrigada!
fascinating vid, thanks.
So how'd it go? Interested to see how pollarded hazel turned out
Are you South African, or am I missing the accent?
this is how beavers engineer the landscape for themselves. Most of the species they prefer sprout back many times, making great beaver food
Alder and Black Poplar make good clogs. Black Poplar isn’t much good for most products other than bodging work, due to its stringy fibres.
I'm going to try pollarding to make a water tower, with a tank on top of the pollard.
That axe is fantastic
The tree that your at when you say hurdle weaving how long did it take to produce that growth ? I'm American if I Google wooden clog I'm going to get nothing but wooden shoe's ! So if you don't mind what is a wooden clog ?
The regrowth on that willow was two years for the thicker stems and one year for the thinner stems. Willow is very good for coppicing. Wooden clogs are in fact shoes and were often used in boggy areas before waterproof shoes were widely available.
Thanks for this video bud. I wanted to know the difference of these two methods and you answer this for me by explaining them very well. Thanks again.
Glad you found it helpful.
Excellence video,, so great
Does coppice need to be cut at ground level or a foot or so above ground?
Typically coppicing is done very close to ground level but pollarding is done at various heights depending on the requirement.
Over the pond in NC, when you say Hazel, are you referring to Hazel nut shrub or witchhazel? And how do you propogate?
Hello, this is the native European hazel Corylus avellana that was used to develop the cultivated version. One of the best ways if you have established shrubs is through layering where you bend over the stems and peg the stem onto the ground and partly cover it with soil. It can then establish roots and shoot up a side shoot that will become a new stem. At that point you can cut the bent over stem and you will have a new plant.
Where did you get that coat from it looks good
Hi, it is made from venture and was from Hilltrek in Scotland.
By looking at the height of polling, you can tell the livestock that were kept around it. We generally poll at about five feet, because our wooded land is only grazed (and browsed) by sheep. Where our cattle have access in a few areas, the poll height is around seven feet.
Absolutely Fabulous area you are working in. See many neglected coppices in the UK it's a bit of a shame. Been thinking of planting and coppicing some willow here for baskets. I like to use pine roots around willow spokes ( they probably aren't called spokes😂). Great video Trev.
Thanks Tim, nothing better than spending time in the woods.
Well done, Cuz. The number one shrub I see pollarded in the US are the Crape Myrtles (mainly in towns - as you stated).
Those Hazel Stools should be cut much lower
I have roe deer regularly grazing my acres, so I always pollard my many willlows, and put brash over my coppiced hazels and chestnut. I've noticed that deer leave the coppiced alder alone though. BTW, I've been using a small, 18v cordless Makita topping chainsaw for the thicker timbers, as over the years you will develop RSI and it's painful.
Also, what weight is your Rinaldi? I like the thinness of the blade. Thankyou.
The head weight is around 750g, I got mine on eBay from a seller based in Italy. Here is a link to their store but they only seem to have slightly lighter axes at the moment. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363844162219?hash=item54b6cd52ab:g:cLkAAOSwQfFihi9m
@@bundufundi Good man. Thankyou for that.
Same technique for when harvesting timber for firewood pre coal. There’d be forest of a few rows and work each row and then back to the first row when fully grown again. So harvested rather than cut down thus keeping the forest for us, wildlife and flora
It’s definitely a more integrated form of harvesting with much less impact on nature. Or in some cases, a beneficial impact even.
@@bundufundi I’m no expert but I remember seeing this on TV a few years back but can’t remember what program it was. Yes definitely regarding nature and the wider benefits
There were coppices actively harvested for energy in the UK right up til the late 1940s when the confluence of the proliferation of modern technology and shortage of agricultural labor finished them off. I know there is video currently hosted on the British Pathe' youtube channel of some horticultural practices where they documented one of the last coppice workers and i believe that was filmed in 48 or 49. There's also some war-era films from a few years earlier documenting hedge laying with a farmer and Land Girl.
Thanks for explaining it in details Sir.
Short but very informative!
Thank you!
So much time on his hands in New Asgard, Korg’s new dendrology channel is aces. Great video, thank you for answering this question.
Nice video, thank you!
Grrat video nice axe what make is it ?
Thanks, it is a Rinaldi axe.
Superb Sir 👍😊
As far as covering this subject you covered it perfectly, a great chat and look at a traditional practical craft, cheers buddy.
Thanks Chris, hope you have a great Christmas!
@@bundufundi thank you, you too⛄
If I were to cut half of those new shoots that appear after coppicing, would the remaining branches be thicker as a result? Or would the tree just grow more of the shoots
I do this with all my willow and poplar to feed horses though the summer
That’s interesting, I believe that grazing animals sometimes self medicate by eating willow for the salycilate in the leaves which is used in aspirin.
@@bundufundi yes work well if there is pain after exercise
Interesting video. I learned something. Thanks!
Thanks Brett!
@@bundufundi Have a great holiday season and stay safe in 2022!
@@brettbrown9814 Thank you Brett, you too! Thanks for all your support this year, I really appreciated it!
Do you have any knowledge of using this techniques to produce wooded arrow shafts en-mass? Sounds like it would be great! We have sweet gum trees (Liquidambar styraciflua) down here which respond well to this technique.
I have not got any experience of Liquidambar but if it coppices well then it should produce a full set of arrow shafts of even size within the first year. It would be interesting to know how you get on if you try it.
Awesome stuff, exactly what I was looking for. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I live in Canada and bought a tree a long time ago and it had been Pollarded . It has deep red small leaves and I cant remember the name. Anyway over time it has grown up and out. So to get it back to a nice tight shape do have a video on doing that?
Hello! Can I do pollarding on beeches? When will be good moment to do it?
Hello, Beech are sometimes pollarded in towns but often don’t take to it as well as other trees. Particularly if it is an old and well established tree. It may be better to prune back by about 25% if you want a reduction if that would work in your situation.
Will doing either of these manage the roots to prevent them from spreading too far out?
Did the one at 6:15 grow back well?
Excellent
Thanks!
I really like these types of videos.
Pollarding in towns and cities is now also being used to stop trees interfering with 5G signals.
Question for you please, how do you find the Ventile Hilltrek gear? From a perspective of water resistance, breathability and durability, including durability outdoors, with brambles and scrub bush etc?
I really like ventile gear. I have the double layer smock which is waterproof due to the double layer, it gets stiff when wet which feels different to modern materials until you get used to it. I have found it to be much more durable than nylon based alternatives and have also found mine to be quite breathable. It is definitely heavier than others but for what I use it for that is not a problem.
@@bundufundi I currently use waxed cotton for outdoor jackets.
Heavy carried, but worn I find them fine. Hardwaring.
I went all in with synthetics a few years ago but didn't like it.
Only a couple of bits of running kit and two pairs of fvallraven trousers left.
Only relatively recently found out about ventile.
The read ups of it sound perfect.
Thank you for your real world perspective.
@@jamesbailand4311 Waxed jackets are great for durability but I find they are prone to go mouldy in the west where we are.