My student was just asking how she could mount her canvas paper paintings onto boards ....she purchased some Masonite or tempered hard brown board. I am glad we stumbled upon your video. ....turns out, we BOTH already were subscribers. Thanks dude, you’re awesome. Have a good one!!!
If you seal mdf, it's as water resistant as any plywood, but much less likely to wrap, and more important, crack. Plywood, especially thin, is notorious for splitting with the grain as the adjacent ply swells and contracts. That's why mdf may be a better choice, if you seal it was polyurethane or dewaxed shellac.
Fun story, ...as a 10 year old, an old man who was an artist, across the street from my house, made canvases for me to paint by using a natural, coarse thread, upholstery fabric. (even had colored flowers and prints)...he glued them onto wood, and then painted them white with some kind of house paint! Totally un-archival, I am sure, but for a kid, the opportunity to paint was magical.
Guests tend to want for play with my expensive professional materials so I buy the $10 canvas drop clothes from Home Depot & paint them with cheap house paint. Usually the $15/gallon crap from Wal-Mart or a suitable gallon of "oops". Then I just cut the drop cloth into various sizes. For a step up, you can use a cheap gesso and hit it with the sander. Lol
Great info as always. If you sandwich your board and canvass between two sheets of greaseproof lunch wrap and then between two sheets of 18mm melamine (old cupboard shelving units) with a weight on top (overnight) you won't have the issue with bubbles on the edge and they will dry flat. The lunch wrap is to prevent the glue from adhering to the melamine. When you take them out the next morning they are not 100% dry but they will be 100% adhered. Please ignore if you've tried this already.
Here, here. Best content on UA-cam for Art. Best of information, brilliantly communicated. He's fair to middling at actually painting 😉😂 but the videos are different class. That skull painting with Magnolia grandiflora behind in this video is my favourite so far and I loved the video for it. Choosing composition and everything, where else would you see it?
Hey Andrew another benefit of painting the canvas a solid mute color like burnt umber is it allows your white paint to become an independent color not shackled to the background!
really good vids- breath of fresh air to listen to Andrew Tischler - what an honest painter. (Only thing hard for me is the constant four note pattern repeated over and over in the 'background')
I LOVED THIS VIDEO!!! your early work was Fantastic!! You can not judge your early landscapes- you were learning your craft - and how to get your work out there - really important period- you do love the earth- so do I!
I always make sure there is at least ½ an inch of canvas sticking out on each side of my intended size of canvas so a 10 * 12 size canvas would be 11 * 13, I have found that by adding after applying glue to the board I then also add an inch/ 25mm band of glue around the edges on my canvas as well , I'll even go over the marked out board size on the back of the canvas by ¼ inch / 6mm really helps to reduce the waves of popped canvas and a brayer dedicated glueing boards for rolling out bubbles really helps. Thanks for these videos which you put out on the tube.
I really enjoy your charismatic approach in teaching. I bought a very high quality camera recently and I was trying to do a video recording on how to but it took me like 4 hours and I'm only have done. At the same time I had my two teenage daughters and there friend over learning from me and there was so much stop and go that they had to hang it up unfinished until the next time. You are truly organized sir. Keep doing what you are doing.
Cheers Eddie, I hear you. You have to eliminate the distractions! I wouldn't say I'm an expert on the process, but I feel like we're improving our methods. :)
I have learned so much from you I wish I would have known you years ago hope it’s not too late now I’m 87 love your beautiful paintings and your voice thank you so much for your sharing your wonderful talents
ANDREW YOU JUST ANSWERED A QUESTION I POSTED TO YOU EARLY THIS MORNING BY FINDING THIS VIDEO! NOW I WANT TO MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE, YOU ADHERE THE CANVAS LINEN OR COTTON, TO THE BOARD WITH ARCHIVAL PVA GLUE, DRY & TRIM THEN STAIN WITH THE LIQUIN ORIG MIXED WITH A PAINT COLOR LIKE YOU DID WITH BURNT SIENNA.......NO GESSO!! ?? IF RIGHT THIS IS GREAT NEWS! I WANT TO TRY THIS!! THANK YOU SO MUCH....MOST HELPFUL!
I learn so much every time I watch one of your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I love your art and am so inspired to continue improving my own art each time I watch your videos.
Ever time I learn more from you in 15 min than I did in 5 years on the painting academy. Painting directly on wood (without linen) doesn't feel right 4 me. Also, blocking the backside of the panel is mandatory. You are a beautiful master. Arigato 🙏🏿
MDF is fine as long as you seal it properly. Golden Acrylics recommend 2 coats of Gloss medium on front, back and sides before apply gesso to the front and sides.
Thanks for your generous videos, Andrew. Can you say a bit about the reinforced panel that you use for the archival version? I haven't run across pre-made panels like that. Did you make one, and/or how is it constructed? Is it regular plywood backed up with a pine reinforcing edging? I wonder if one could use regular stretcher bars to reinforce a canvas panel. (Maybe I've answered my own question :).
Is there anytime you would use a cooler/ Grey wash on the canvas? Thank you Andrew, for your generosity of knowledge, it means SO much to the artists out here!
Idk if it is the right way, but one of my relatives who is a professional artist, recommended that i buy MDF board and cover it with 2/3 coats of white glue and paint on that. It is really affordable and i enjoy painting on it.
March 17 was my birthday and we're the same name and also I'm an amateur artist, still 2018 after I watch your videos. I was inspired on your paintings thank you. New subscriber here 🙂
Andrew's world Andrew's world, Painting time! EXCELLENT! Lol! Thanks for all the advices! They mean a lot for new arts students like me! Salutes from Argentina!!
Andrew, your videos and paintings are very inspiring. I especially found the "I'm stuck" talk helpful. I have resolved to continue working and growing in my craft as well. Thank you for your instruction and encouragement!
Dear Andrew, ❤️ I only have one non review article uploaded But it’s so good to see you do this The “fun,” I have had with bubbles on larger boards, with sized but not primed linen I will definitely spot you a couple of pints if you ever come to Oxfordshire England I much prefer non wobble stability of hard backs Very best wishes Henry
Thanks for the great tips! What I don't fully understand is the key difference between the two methods (besides standard vs archival PVA and the more elegant cutting method which one could also use in the simpler case). Is it the _reinforced_ panel on its back side? As far as I know linen does not stretch or shrink too much in response to moisture, which is not the case with (ply)wood panels - is this why the panel is reinforced (archival case) to make it more stable? A sealed simple panel without the reinforcement might expand (in humid conditions) ruining the more rigid canvas? Thanks a lot!
Great video! This would be a project to make good use of time when having a "painter's block" moment. Thank you for pointing out that the "stained color" is what shows through the painting as the undertones. Kelly Lamb in Kansas, USA.
I usually purchase 8' X 4' X 1/8" sheets of hardboard from a large hardware store and then cut the sizes that I want. This hardboard is very smooth on both sides but I nevertheless prime with acrylic paint, sand with a very fine sandpaper and then re-prime, using acrylic with a small amount of water to make the acrylic runny and that fills in any rough areas from the earlier sanding. Have you ever tried using this method and if so, what is our opinion?
Yeah, I used to do this and it's a pretty decent panel to paint on I must say. It really is a preference thing. I enjoy the feel of the weave of fabric. This is why I adhere it to the ply. Hardboards aren't generally considered archival.
Awesome video, great tips! wth with your super idea about the liquin/paint/thinner/screws combo! btw, I've done paintings that are now over 40 years old on masonite and they are still like the day I painted them. Love your stuff:)
Thank you, Andrew. Very educational and informative as always! Can you recommend an adhesive product or a process to mount existing painted canvas to a hardboard? I have several paintings that have been compromised over time and by the elements, and I'm looking to mount to hardboard as the canvas is too fragile to re-stretch. Any recommendations in accomplishing this would be appreciated. Thank you
Thanks a lot for the tricks and tips. I always wanted to know about a safe and efficient way to make linen panels. I love what you are doing. Thanks a lot again for sharing.
Hey Andrew, why liquin instead of Gamsol? Once you put a layer of liquin, that layer can’t be removed. If you use a medium over the toned Gamsol and pigment, it can lift up and especially if you need to sand. I am thinking that is why you use the liquin? Thank you!
Hi, I’m late to the party - I paint with acrylics, not oils. What would you use to prepare/stain the surface before starting to paint with acrylic? Loved this video, thanks.
There are ways... young palawan-learner, considered "unorthodox" to many of the Jedi Order... MDF can be sealed to make an archival surface, using epoxy thinned to soak itself into the surface, then another coat overtop of that full strength. MDF has many of the same chemicals found inside any plywood, fyi. For me, epoxy is too elaborate and expensive to use, PVA woodglue seals a surface just fine, and that is basically what the artists of the renaissance used, rabbit skin glue. PVA is much better. If you REALLY want to be archival, use cheap thin polyvinyl cutting board the texture of the board is like your canvas texture. I'd never do it, but its far longer lived than any wood product. I find it funny that many people in the art community tell stories about certain things that are bad for longevity, when they really do not know the spectrum of materials or the actual properties of some of the things they recommend... when another better product is available, but not in the "recommended list" they have, they freak out. I make all my own canvases, or I should say boards. Plywood and wood glue, then primed using PVA primer paint, sanded and primed again. I use a backer frame to keep the surface flat and rigid for larger boards. I stopped using canvas, its just another step I have to spend more time on, and I do not like the texture, so making the wood panel smoother is much easier, and the PVA and wood glue will last for around 200 years after I'm gone. The plywood will last for at least that long too. If my work is not worth a million bucks now, in 200 years, I doubt anyone will say, "Gee, if he had only used an archival canvas..." Of course, they opposite could happen, and they might say, "if only the rest of them had done what this crappy no name shit painter did..."
That's how I prime my plywood, pva glue, and 1-3 layers of oil primer from home depot. It makes a great painting ground. I'm having trouble with the large ones though....how do you attach the braces on to the plywood?
@@BrazoDelDiablo Straight up wood glue, doesn't matter what type, this isn't going to be load bearing of a nature that would be considered structural, so any will do. Large or small, I use heavy metal bars to weigh down the wood strips while they dry, or use clamps along one side one side at a time... be sure you are level, that is why I use metal weights, I have a solid level/flat table to glue up on.
Question about steps: Is it ok to apply the GAC100 to both sides of board prior to any further steps? ie: Apply GAC100 to both sides, let it dry for recommended amount of time. Once dry, apply the glue and then canvas ?
Thanks for this. I came across a place that makes MDF panel. Huge, cheap panels and I was about to paint on them (after sealing)... but after you mentioned that MDF isn't at all friendly or archival, I'll stick to canvas.
Why go through the trouble of glueing linen on when you can just cover the panel with Ground and paint directly on that? Isn't linen less archival because it stretches over time?
Great. great video and info, but mdf/masonite not archival? what if it is presumably sealed? i'm not doubting you but usually it is touted as better than canvas archivally speaking maybe they're talking about birch or something? (and directly on the sealed surface never mind attaching canvas as you so professionally show how to do)
Hey Peter. The binder in the MDF will degrade as it soaks in moisture. It has the tendency to expand. Working with canvas or linen over this is preferable, but still, over a vast amount of time we will start to see a bit of expansion. In humid climates or in the tropics, this is prevalent. Bear in mind, this is just one way of doing it. People asked..so this is how I do it. As always I am looking for better ways, but I do still trust my restorer when he advises me against composite boards. The birch panel, reinforced on the back seems to be the best option. I am loving the results so far, I'll get back to you in 200 years! :D
Thanks! probably it's why your restorer got angry /"told you off":-) because it is very prevalent to claim mdf as being most archival when apparently it's not. At least be sure it's sealed on the back, as you suggest, if one does use it.
Very clear - would it not be good to let panels with glued canvas dry under pressure? Stack up a few of them, and load with some heavy weights?
7 років тому+1
Your tips are always welcome and very useful. I'm always wondering if I should start making my own canvases. I might do it some other time to test the methods present here - it looks like entertaining but I can't make a habit of it as I have limited space at home. Any suggestion?
Nice Video Content. I am your new subscriber. At present I am reviving the Art Style of PIET MONDRIAN. My plan is to make the Black color (, Artist Acrylic Paint) as base and use masking tape to create the black lines to speed up the Painting Process. I saw a video in UA-cam that they apply Zinsser Deep Tint White Commercial Paint to Black Wall before applying the Colored Paint. My question is - If I will apply the same in my Canvas - Use Commercial Zinsser Deep Tint Acrylic Paint prior to applying my Artist Crylic Primary Colors, does it affect the Lightfastness and Archive Ness. Take note the the Black Lines remains Artist Paint. Thank you.
Is there something wrong with the Windsor & Newton canvas panels that I'm missing? Genuine question here. I absolutely love all of AT advice, knowledge, knowhow, DIY videos. They are priceless and inspirational. Time wise and finished product Vs price it seems to be a push economically to just store buy primed artists canvas panels in bulk. 8x10 W&N Artists canvas panel €2 locally.
In America u can get archival mdf boards from ampersand, however it is possible to make panels which are archrival. The "mdf" u had in the video didn't look entirely like true MDF. I'm not sure why but mdf found here does have a bit more durability to it, perhaps its the strict building codes, I'm not sure. What u had looked more like compressed wood panels. While I am considering switching to birch panels, I've lost no confidence in mdf, I've left mdf panels outside in the rain and sun over the summer and its still rigid. Also its import an to note PVA even though u used an archival glue, I didn't know PVA was archival at all, but using PVA as a sealer has always been a no no to me. It rots the fabric over time, by making it very brittle. So thats something I'll do more research on and perhaps you could too, I'll let u know what I find.
Thank you for your video! You mentioned MDF wood panels, which is something I was about to order, however they do have the option MDF "moisture resitant", would you still not recommend it?
I'm really not looking for the linen to use on board, but I'm wondering what type/kind of linen Andrew used for his paintings. I think I recall he said he uses triple primed, Belgian Linen...? If anyone knows where, or the supplier, ... please let me know. I would be so grateful.
For final paintings, I want to use something that someone can cut down for me. I've heard mdf is fine as long as you seal it. I'm a bit confused on what to use
These are just excellent trics. After rewatching several times, one question, Andrew: Is there a reason why you wouldn't go ahead and gallery wrap the edges so you wouldn't have to frame the painting? Just wondering because I need ways to save money.
My student was just asking how she could mount her canvas paper paintings onto boards ....she purchased some Masonite or tempered hard brown board. I am glad we stumbled upon your video. ....turns out, we BOTH already were subscribers. Thanks dude, you’re awesome. Have a good one!!!
If you seal mdf, it's as water resistant as any plywood, but much less likely to wrap, and more important, crack. Plywood, especially thin, is notorious for splitting with the grain as the adjacent ply swells and contracts. That's why mdf may be a better choice, if you seal it was polyurethane or dewaxed shellac.
I typically use shellac to seal my MDF boards. It works great!
Fun story, ...as a 10 year old, an old man who was an artist, across the street from my house, made canvases for me to paint by using a natural, coarse thread, upholstery fabric. (even had colored flowers and prints)...he glued them onto wood, and then painted them white with some kind of house paint! Totally un-archival, I am sure, but for a kid, the opportunity to paint was magical.
Hey, I used to paint on those. I used drapes for my senior year art project!
Guests tend to want for play with my expensive professional materials so I buy the $10 canvas drop clothes from Home Depot & paint them with cheap house paint. Usually the $15/gallon crap from Wal-Mart or a suitable gallon of "oops". Then I just cut the drop cloth into various sizes. For a step up, you can use a cheap gesso and hit it with the sander. Lol
I gesso anything with mix of
White wood glue.
Pva,house paint.
Johnsons talc powder
Great info as always. If you sandwich your board and canvass between two sheets of greaseproof lunch wrap and then between two sheets of 18mm melamine (old cupboard shelving units) with a weight on top (overnight) you won't have the issue with bubbles on the edge and they will dry flat. The lunch wrap is to prevent the glue from adhering to the melamine. When you take them out the next morning they are not 100% dry but they will be 100% adhered. Please ignore if you've tried this already.
The amount of knowledge and tips here are priceless! Thanks man!
No worries Gabriel!
Andrew I am overwhelmed with your generosity. Thank you for all the wonderful knowledge that you impart.
Thanks En Tee! :)
Here, here. Best content on UA-cam for Art. Best of information, brilliantly communicated. He's fair to middling at actually painting 😉😂 but the videos are different class. That skull painting with Magnolia grandiflora behind in this video is my favourite so far and I loved the video for it. Choosing composition and everything, where else would you see it?
Hey Andrew another benefit of painting the canvas a solid mute color like burnt umber is it allows your white paint to become an independent color not shackled to the background!
Indeed
really good vids- breath of fresh air to listen to Andrew Tischler - what an honest painter. (Only thing hard for me is the constant four note pattern repeated over and over in the 'background')
I LOVED THIS VIDEO!!! your early work was Fantastic!! You can not judge your early landscapes- you were learning your craft - and how to get your work out there - really important period- you do love the earth- so do I!
I always make sure there is at least ½ an inch of canvas sticking out on each side of my intended size of canvas so a 10 * 12 size canvas would be 11 * 13, I have found that by adding after applying glue to the board I then also add an inch/ 25mm band of glue around the edges on my canvas as well , I'll even go over the marked out board size on the back of the canvas by ¼ inch / 6mm really helps to reduce the waves of popped canvas and a brayer dedicated glueing boards for rolling out bubbles really helps. Thanks for these videos which you put out on the tube.
I really enjoy your charismatic approach in teaching. I bought a very high quality camera recently and I was trying to do a video recording on how to but it took me like 4 hours and I'm only have done. At the same time I had my two teenage daughters and there friend over learning from me and there was so much stop and go that they had to hang it up unfinished until the next time. You are truly organized sir. Keep doing what you are doing.
Cheers Eddie, I hear you. You have to eliminate the distractions! I wouldn't say I'm an expert on the process, but I feel like we're improving our methods. :)
I have learned so much from you I wish I would have known you years ago hope it’s not too late now I’m 87 love your beautiful paintings and your voice thank you so much for your sharing your wonderful talents
Thank you Andrew for post this video on canvas panels.
ANDREW YOU JUST ANSWERED A QUESTION I POSTED TO YOU EARLY THIS MORNING BY FINDING THIS VIDEO! NOW I WANT TO MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE, YOU ADHERE THE CANVAS LINEN OR COTTON, TO THE BOARD WITH ARCHIVAL PVA GLUE, DRY & TRIM THEN STAIN WITH THE LIQUIN ORIG MIXED WITH A PAINT COLOR LIKE YOU DID WITH BURNT SIENNA.......NO GESSO!! ?? IF RIGHT THIS IS GREAT NEWS! I WANT TO TRY THIS!! THANK YOU SO MUCH....MOST HELPFUL!
@@verydrunkcat many thanks drunk cat.
I learn so much every time I watch one of your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I love your art and am so inspired to continue improving my own art each time I watch your videos.
Ever time I learn more from you in 15 min than I did in 5 years on the painting academy. Painting directly on wood (without linen) doesn't feel right 4 me. Also, blocking the backside of the panel is mandatory. You are a beautiful master. Arigato 🙏🏿
Very useful as I'm preparing some panels ready for painting - thanks again Andrew
MDF is fine as long as you seal it properly. Golden Acrylics recommend 2 coats of Gloss medium on front, back and sides before apply gesso to the front and sides.
Thanks for your generous videos, Andrew. Can you say a bit about the reinforced panel that you use for the archival version? I haven't run across pre-made panels like that. Did you make one, and/or how is it constructed? Is it regular plywood backed up with a pine reinforcing edging? I wonder if one could use regular stretcher bars to reinforce a canvas panel. (Maybe I've answered my own question :).
a brayer (roller) like used in printmaking would be great for smoothing out the linen after pva application
If you want even glue coverage roll it out with an ink roller
Is there anytime you would use a cooler/ Grey wash on the canvas? Thank you Andrew, for your generosity of knowledge, it means SO much to the artists out here!
Idk if it is the right way, but one of my relatives who is a professional artist, recommended that i buy MDF board and cover it with 2/3 coats of white glue and paint on that. It is really affordable and i enjoy painting on it.
I would recommend switching from mdf to hardboard/Masonite. And using gesso
March 17 was my birthday and we're the same name and also I'm an amateur artist, still 2018 after I watch your videos. I was inspired on your paintings thank you. New subscriber here 🙂
Thank you Andrew.
Andrew's world Andrew's world, Painting time! EXCELLENT!
Lol! Thanks for all the advices! They mean a lot for new arts students like me! Salutes from Argentina!!
Very useful information. Thanks Andrew ☺️
Great advice and hacks here Andrew!Thx again.
Andrew, your videos and paintings are very inspiring. I especially found the "I'm stuck" talk helpful. I have resolved to continue working and growing in my craft as well. Thank you for your instruction and encouragement!
My pleasure Debbie!
Dear Andrew, ❤️
I only have one non review article uploaded
But it’s so good to see you do this
The “fun,” I have had with bubbles on larger boards, with sized but not primed linen
I will definitely spot you a couple of pints if you ever come to Oxfordshire England
I much prefer non wobble stability of hard backs
Very best wishes
Henry
Andyyyyyy!!! - I’m thinking to myself: “how did I miss this video?!” - I’m glad it appeared! Thank you for this!
Thank you so much...Your articulation and personality together create a wonderful experience for the public. Lucky New Zealand!
Good information. It's always good to have a new option for preparing panels.
Thanks for the great tips!
What I don't fully understand is the key difference between the two methods (besides standard vs archival PVA and the more elegant cutting method which one could also use in the simpler case). Is it the _reinforced_ panel on its back side? As far as I know linen does not stretch or shrink too much in response to moisture, which is not the case with (ply)wood panels - is this why the panel is reinforced (archival case) to make it more stable? A sealed simple panel without the reinforcement might expand (in humid conditions) ruining the more rigid canvas?
Thanks a lot!
Very knowledgeable and fast to the point!
Great video! This would be a project to make good use of time when having a "painter's block" moment. Thank you for pointing out that the "stained color" is what shows through the painting as the undertones.
Kelly Lamb in Kansas, USA.
I usually purchase 8' X 4' X 1/8" sheets of hardboard from a large hardware store and then cut the sizes that I want. This hardboard is very smooth on both sides but I nevertheless prime with acrylic paint, sand with a very fine sandpaper and then re-prime, using acrylic with a small amount of water to make the acrylic runny and that fills in any rough areas from the earlier sanding. Have you ever tried using this method and if so, what is our opinion?
Yeah, I used to do this and it's a pretty decent panel to paint on I must say. It really is a preference thing. I enjoy the feel of the weave of fabric. This is why I adhere it to the ply. Hardboards aren't generally considered archival.
You are a wealth of information! I am so glad I found your channel!
Thanks, Mr Tischler!
MDF and Kilz! Slap some acrylic ground on it and paint away. And you get 2 surfaces to paint. I have about $1.50 US per panel in a 12×16 size.
Do you ever paint on gesso boards (without linen)?
Awesome video, great tips! wth with your super idea about the liquin/paint/thinner/screws combo! btw, I've done paintings that are now over 40 years old on masonite and they are still like the day I painted them. Love your stuff:)
Thanks for ALL the tips you share with us! I'd love to see you do more wildlife, birds. God Bless!
Are you still making the panels in this same way or are there any upgrades that you have discovered?
Thanks for the vid, but I was hoping to find out how to make an archival panel. Unfortunately that one just appeared out of nowhere.
Same here....
Brilliant Andrew. Many thanks for a very useful and informative video.
Andrew, thank you for another wonderful and informative quick tip.
Thank you, Andrew. Very educational and informative as always! Can you recommend an adhesive product or a process to mount existing painted canvas to a hardboard? I have several paintings that have been compromised over time and by the elements, and I'm looking to mount to hardboard as the canvas is too fragile to re-stretch. Any recommendations in accomplishing this would be appreciated. Thank you
Thanks a lot for the tricks and tips. I always wanted to know about a safe and efficient way to make linen panels. I love what you are doing. Thanks a lot again for sharing.
what a blased man. thank you andrew.
Good tip mate. Cheers Graham
Andrew, what brand of pre primed linen do you use? Thanks a bunch!
Question: can you paint on the fabric though it's not on panels? I have five huge fabric that were taken off canvases.
Great video as always. These little bits of information are so helpful. Thank you!
Cheers James, no worries.
Very informative video ❤️
Hey Andrew, why liquin instead of Gamsol? Once you put a layer of liquin, that layer can’t be removed. If you use a medium over the toned Gamsol and pigment, it can lift up and especially if you need to sand. I am thinking that is why you use the liquin? Thank you!
Hi, I’m late to the party - I paint with acrylics, not oils. What would you use to prepare/stain the surface before starting to paint with acrylic? Loved this video, thanks.
Great video.
I'm learning so much by watching you, thank you. 😃
There are ways... young palawan-learner, considered "unorthodox" to many of the Jedi Order...
MDF can be sealed to make an archival surface, using epoxy thinned to soak itself into the surface, then another coat overtop of that full strength. MDF has many of the same chemicals found inside any plywood, fyi. For me, epoxy is too elaborate and expensive to use, PVA woodglue seals a surface just fine, and that is basically what the artists of the renaissance used, rabbit skin glue. PVA is much better. If you REALLY want to be archival, use cheap thin polyvinyl cutting board the texture of the board is like your canvas texture. I'd never do it, but its far longer lived than any wood product. I find it funny that many people in the art community tell stories about certain things that are bad for longevity, when they really do not know the spectrum of materials or the actual properties of some of the things they recommend... when another better product is available, but not in the "recommended list" they have, they freak out.
I make all my own canvases, or I should say boards. Plywood and wood glue, then primed using PVA primer paint, sanded and primed again. I use a backer frame to keep the surface flat and rigid for larger boards. I stopped using canvas, its just another step I have to spend more time on, and I do not like the texture, so making the wood panel smoother is much easier, and the PVA and wood glue will last for around 200 years after I'm gone. The plywood will last for at least that long too. If my work is not worth a million bucks now, in 200 years, I doubt anyone will say, "Gee, if he had only used an archival canvas..." Of course, they opposite could happen, and they might say, "if only the rest of them had done what this crappy no name shit painter did..."
That's how I prime my plywood, pva glue, and 1-3 layers of oil primer from home depot. It makes a great painting ground. I'm having trouble with the large ones though....how do you attach the braces on to the plywood?
Lol!!!! "shit painter" too funny!!!
@@BrazoDelDiablo Straight up wood glue, doesn't matter what type, this isn't going to be load bearing of a nature that would be considered structural, so any will do. Large or small, I use heavy metal bars to weigh down the wood strips while they dry, or use clamps along one side one side at a time... be sure you are level, that is why I use metal weights, I have a solid level/flat table to glue up on.
Question about steps: Is it ok to apply the GAC100 to both sides of board prior to any further steps? ie: Apply GAC100 to both sides, let it dry for recommended amount of time. Once dry, apply the glue and then canvas ?
Thanks for this. I came across a place that makes MDF panel. Huge, cheap panels and I was about to paint on them (after sealing)... but after you mentioned that MDF isn't at all friendly or archival, I'll stick to canvas.
Great vídeo!! Thanks for sharing this technique
amazing video, thank you so much. now i learnd how to prime my canvas with earth hue. i appreciate you effort to make those clips from yout own time.
Suuuper explanation!!!!!!!!!!
So handy, great ideas, your like Google answer anything about painting materials.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Sue! Not quite Google, and I don't have ALL the answers, just what works for me!
Thank You for great video! Will PVA adhesive will be enough to mount thick, sturdy canvas to cradled panel?
really enjoyed you video. covered a subject that i knew little about. thank you so much.
Can you please make a video with diy archival panel and gesso♥️♥️♥️
Excellent work, thanks appreciate
Why go through the trouble of glueing linen on when you can just cover the panel with Ground and paint directly on that? Isn't linen less archival because it stretches over time?
The texture?
Great. great video and info, but mdf/masonite not archival? what if it is presumably sealed? i'm not doubting you but usually it is touted as better than canvas archivally speaking maybe they're talking about birch or something? (and directly on the sealed surface never mind attaching canvas as you so professionally show how to do)
Hey Peter. The binder in the MDF will degrade as it soaks in moisture. It has the tendency to expand. Working with canvas or linen over this is preferable, but still, over a vast amount of time we will start to see a bit of expansion. In humid climates or in the tropics, this is prevalent. Bear in mind, this is just one way of doing it. People asked..so this is how I do it. As always I am looking for better ways, but I do still trust my restorer when he advises me against composite boards. The birch panel, reinforced on the back seems to be the best option. I am loving the results so far, I'll get back to you in 200 years! :D
Thanks! probably it's why your restorer got angry /"told you off":-) because it is very prevalent to claim mdf as being most archival when apparently it's not. At least be sure it's sealed on the back, as you suggest, if one does use it.
@@AndrewTischlerArt that clear s my last doubt about the superiority of plywood. 200years is good enough. 😀
Very clear - would it not be good to let panels with glued canvas dry under pressure? Stack up a few of them, and load with some heavy weights?
Your tips are always welcome and very useful.
I'm always wondering if I should start making my own canvases. I might do it some other time to test the methods present here - it looks like entertaining but I can't make a habit of it as I have limited space at home. Any suggestion?
Well, if space is a concern, these panels don't take up much room! Also, you can stretch canvases pretty small. It all depends on your requirements!
Nice Video Content. I am your new subscriber. At present I am reviving the Art Style of PIET MONDRIAN. My plan is to make the Black color (, Artist Acrylic Paint) as base and use masking tape to create the black lines to speed up the Painting Process. I saw a video in UA-cam that they apply Zinsser Deep Tint White Commercial Paint to Black Wall before applying the Colored Paint. My question is - If I will apply the same in my Canvas - Use Commercial Zinsser Deep Tint Acrylic Paint prior to applying my Artist Crylic Primary Colors, does it affect the Lightfastness and Archive Ness. Take note the the Black Lines remains Artist Paint. Thank you.
This is my first time watching you....I SUBSCRIBED!!! Smiles.....I want to see everything you do!
Can any ply wood panel be used for placing the panel on? Just as long as it is a certain thickness?
Hi! thanks for sharing all thoses informations!
What is the type of pallette you are using.... I like it how you can rotate and customize it accordingly
great tutorial. Many thanks
If not too late to ask a question, do you use acrylic gesso? Are you saying oil based staining is better than using dilute acrylic paint for staining?
Great video!!
Sir please make a video on brush stoke
Adore you andrew
thanks! can you do a tutorial on your palette set up?
Some old T shirt material and Elmers glue or gesso also works.
Is there something wrong with the Windsor & Newton canvas panels that I'm missing? Genuine question here. I absolutely love all of AT advice, knowledge, knowhow, DIY videos. They are priceless and inspirational. Time wise and finished product Vs price it seems to be a push economically to just store buy primed artists canvas panels in bulk. 8x10 W&N Artists canvas panel €2 locally.
In America u can get archival mdf boards from ampersand, however it is possible to make panels which are archrival. The "mdf" u had in the video didn't look entirely like true MDF. I'm not sure why but mdf found here does have a bit more durability to it, perhaps its the strict building codes, I'm not sure. What u had looked more like compressed wood panels. While I am considering switching to birch panels, I've lost no confidence in mdf, I've left mdf panels outside in the rain and sun over the summer and its still rigid. Also its import an to note PVA even though u used an archival glue, I didn't know PVA was archival at all, but using PVA as a sealer has always been a no no to me. It rots the fabric over time, by making it very brittle. So thats something I'll do more research on and perhaps you could too, I'll let u know what I find.
Great stuff! Thanks for sharing!
What kind of archival panel would you use for larger paintings such as 55x35?
Hi great video but whats the make of panel you use for the archival panel i.e what wood is it made from and manufactured by?
Normally I use Birch panels. All sorts of companies do this. Find one that is reinforced on the back.
Thank you for your video! You mentioned MDF wood panels, which is something I was about to order, however they do have the option MDF "moisture resitant", would you still not recommend it?
Michael James Smith uses moisture resistant MDF with great results, check out his UA-cam channel :)
Hiii sir.....
Can you make a video of making frames for canvas paintings....please make a video...
I'm really not looking for the linen to use on board, but I'm wondering what type/kind of linen Andrew used for his paintings. I think I recall he said he uses triple primed, Belgian Linen...?
If anyone knows where, or the supplier, ... please let me know.
I would be so grateful.
For final paintings, I want to use something that someone can cut down for me. I've heard mdf is fine as long as you seal it. I'm a bit confused on what to use
Thankyou
These are just excellent trics. After rewatching several times, one question, Andrew: Is there a reason why you wouldn't go ahead and gallery wrap the edges so you wouldn't have to frame the painting? Just wondering because I need ways to save money.
MDF in Canada as well
Great video Andrew, and I especially liked the recipe for the under painting. I am going to use that, thank you
Awesome!
Thank you so much for the great videos