Thanks for these videos. I tore down the engine last weekend and I'm going to take it to the machine shop later in the month so I'll be on this step soon.
Great videos, love all the details you mention. This series, combined with the Wayne Dempsey book starting to give me more and more confidence I can do the (dis)assembly process myself. Keep up the great work!
Hi Kurt, I have been viewing and reviewing your videos and they have been a key part of my “Porsche experience”. I cannot thank you enough for sharing your knowledge. I am rebuilding a 1970 2.2 911 engine. I countless forums and literature experts (and many novices I am sure) recommend installing piston squirters on these early engines to help cool the pistons. I am wondering whether you agree with this recommendation or not. And if you do, if you happen to have a video on this. Thank you very much in advance, greetings all the way from Mexico!! Mario
Mario, There are a number of things to consider when doing this. Firstly the first time we saw piston cooling was in the 2.7L engines and this was a necessity because of the increased displacement and the reduction of barrel wall thickness resulting in less heat dissipation. Another point to bare in mind is that the oil jets are a calibrated internal oil leak. The 2.7L engines used larger oil pumps to accommodate for this. Now looking at a 2.2L engine with Biral cylinders with good heat dissipation and a smaller oil pump I would say no it is not necessary to add piston cooling. If you really want to you can but that also means sizing the oil pump to suit the oil flow requirements. Kurt
Absolutely love the quality of these videos. But with so many of them, it would have been nice to see a numbered sequence from beginning to end. ie: Part 1, Part 2....along with the job being done which is what you have done.
What we have tried to do is make videos of specific jobs which are usually a job all unto themselves. They are also fairly self evident as to the order of operations. When it came to an assembly like a cylinder head we did use part 1, 2, 3, etc. Most of our videos a laid out just like they are in the factory manuals as that is how I preform the work. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching. Kurt
I notice that you put the windage trays (aka oil strainer) back in. Ollie's suggested I remove them when they did the oil bypass upgrade to our case. Not sure on the reasoning.
Yes I have heard that before. But I still like to use them. I have never been able to find a Porsche bulletin on removing them. I also don't see any reasoning to removing them just because you do an oil pressure bypass upgrade. Kurt
The problem with Brake cleaner is that it has lots of bad stuff in it. If it cleans well then it is usually loaded up with Acetone which can damage gaskets and seals. If it is not loaded with Acetone then usually it wont work worth a dam. One way around your issue is to buy the MPS in bulk 5 gallon pails. Then use a pump up spray bottle to pressurize it and spray it. California's big problem with MPS100 is only when it is in a spray can. Or do what i did and move out of California... Thanks Kurt
I need that deburr tool. I don't think my case was line bored but there are some burrs in the spots you mentioned. Is that tool on Amazon? Also what bearings do I use? Glyco, Porsche etc?
Hi Trenton, It was hard to find exactly the same tool. But it is a fixed blade scraper. amzn.to/3ymTeu2 This handle and scraper by Noga means you could add other deburr blades. The bearings can change on size. We use Glyco when standard standard. But Porsche may be the only source for some oversized bearings, and you have to buy each half shell. It can get expensive. On a mag case we would recommend getting align bore. With the close and hone the case bearings can go back to standard. You still need to inspect your crank, to see if it is standard and not scored. ua-cam.com/video/CdtXnQZKf9E/v-deo.html Let us know how it works out for you. Sarah www.klassikats.com/2020/11/12/engine-case-to-crankshaft-rebuild-your-air-cooled-porsche-engine/
@@klassikats Thanks. My case is the Aluminum 993 Case. My crank was measured and is standard spec. Now I'll measure the bore to see if it's standard too. I will probably use Glyco too. My porsche indie uses them for past 20 years. I managed to polish my crank and camshafts on my own to a nice shiny clean finish. Once I get my bearings I am ready to put the case together.
My engine bits are on the way back from Ollies so I'm about to get started after 7 mos. I'm going to check my main bearing clearances on my std/std case, but read a lot of posts that the new Glyco's are undersized and cause low oil pressure from being at the extreme upper end or over spec. Have you noticed this with current batches, or is this a bad batch from years past?
I have not had any issues with the bearings that I have been getting. It is always good to check the clearances though and its not impossible for a new part to be wrong. Kurt
Thanks for these videos. I tore down the engine last weekend and I'm going to take it to the machine shop later in the month so I'll be on this step soon.
You have a lot of watching in your future! Thanks for watching!
Great videos, love all the details you mention. This series, combined with the Wayne Dempsey book starting to give me more and more confidence I can do the (dis)assembly process myself. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the great comment. keep watching as we have more videos coming.
Hi Kurt,
I have been viewing and reviewing your videos and they have been a key part of my “Porsche experience”. I cannot thank you enough for sharing your knowledge. I am rebuilding a 1970 2.2 911 engine. I countless forums and literature experts (and many novices I am sure) recommend installing piston squirters on these early engines to help cool the pistons. I am wondering whether you agree with this recommendation or not. And if you do, if you happen to have a video on this. Thank you very much in advance, greetings all the way from Mexico!! Mario
Mario,
There are a number of things to consider when doing this. Firstly the first time we saw piston cooling was in the 2.7L engines and this was a necessity because of the increased displacement and the reduction of barrel wall thickness resulting in less heat dissipation. Another point to bare in mind is that the oil jets are a calibrated internal oil leak. The 2.7L engines used larger oil pumps to accommodate for this.
Now looking at a 2.2L engine with Biral cylinders with good heat dissipation and a smaller oil pump I would say no it is not necessary to add piston cooling. If you really want to you can but that also means sizing the oil pump to suit the oil flow requirements.
Kurt
Absolutely love the quality of these videos. But with so many of them, it would have been nice to see a numbered sequence from beginning to end. ie: Part 1, Part 2....along with the job being done which is what you have done.
What we have tried to do is make videos of specific jobs which are usually a job all unto themselves. They are also fairly self evident as to the order of operations. When it came to an assembly like a cylinder head we did use part 1, 2, 3, etc. Most of our videos a laid out just like they are in the factory manuals as that is how I preform the work.
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Kurt
I notice that you put the windage trays (aka oil strainer) back in. Ollie's suggested I remove them when they did the oil bypass upgrade to our case. Not sure on the reasoning.
Yes I have heard that before. But I still like to use them. I have never been able to find a Porsche bulletin on removing them. I also don't see any reasoning to removing them just because you do an oil pressure bypass upgrade.
Kurt
Can brake cleaner be used instead of the winzer mps 100? It’s not available in California.
The problem with Brake cleaner is that it has lots of bad stuff in it. If it cleans well then it is usually loaded up with Acetone which can damage gaskets and seals. If it is not loaded with Acetone then usually it wont work worth a dam. One way around your issue is to buy the MPS in bulk 5 gallon pails. Then use a pump up spray bottle to pressurize it and spray it. California's big problem with MPS100 is only when it is in a spray can. Or do what i did and move out of California...
Thanks
Kurt
I need that deburr tool. I don't think my case was line bored but there are some burrs in the spots you mentioned. Is that tool on Amazon? Also what bearings do I use? Glyco, Porsche etc?
Hi Trenton, It was hard to find exactly the same tool. But it is a fixed blade scraper. amzn.to/3ymTeu2
This handle and scraper by Noga means you could add other deburr blades.
The bearings can change on size. We use Glyco when standard standard. But Porsche may be the only source for some oversized bearings, and you have to buy each half shell. It can get expensive. On a mag case we would recommend getting align bore. With the close and hone the case bearings can go back to standard. You still need to inspect your crank, to see if it is standard and not scored.
ua-cam.com/video/CdtXnQZKf9E/v-deo.html
Let us know how it works out for you. Sarah
www.klassikats.com/2020/11/12/engine-case-to-crankshaft-rebuild-your-air-cooled-porsche-engine/
@@klassikats Thanks. My case is the Aluminum 993 Case. My crank was measured and is standard spec. Now I'll measure the bore to see if it's standard too. I will probably use Glyco too. My porsche indie uses them for past 20 years. I managed to polish my crank and camshafts on my own to a nice shiny clean finish. Once I get my bearings I am ready to put the case together.
My engine bits are on the way back from Ollies so I'm about to get started after 7 mos. I'm going to check my main bearing clearances on my std/std case, but read a lot of posts that the new Glyco's are undersized and cause low oil pressure from being at the extreme upper end or over spec. Have you noticed this with current batches, or is this a bad batch from years past?
I have not had any issues with the bearings that I have been getting. It is always good to check the clearances though and its not impossible for a new part to be wrong.
Kurt
👍
Thanks
kurt