When putting new valve shims in, its always good practice to put a dab of fresh engine oil on the tops of the shims bofore reinstalling the rocker arms. Otherwise you could risk having a sort of "dry-start" situation and the shims could wear prematurely causing you to be right back where you started.
Literally I was heading out TODAY (4/27/19) to sell my 2017 KTM EXC-F 250 because I`ve been unable to find anything to really and at an in-depth level show this process, and the dealers around here want over four-hundred dollars to do it. To trade-in my bike for another two-stroke, which was the plan today, was going to cost me around three-grand (between a rubbish trade-in value and the additional money down). So someone over there (at Rocky Mountain) needs a pay raise, because whoever decided to do these videos tells me you give a shit about your customers! I`m sure I speak for most of us when I say thank you!
Nice video with good quality footage and good editing, just have a few suggestions: I recommend torquing all removed fasteners to KTM spec, especially the bolts holding the rocker shafts in. I oil the new shims on both sides because they will read loose when installed dry. I also like to turn over the engine a few times after changing shims to fully seat everything where it will be in running condition, and then take the new measurements. As others stated, highly recommend a micrometer, or at least high quality calipers to measure the shims.
Elad, no the 350 is a dual overhead cam and you have to pull the cams to change the shims. Rocky Mountain, you guys kick a$$. Things like this are the reason you get all my business.
@Glen Hogan To time this machine you will want to have the motor at Top Dead Center, then you will align the cam sprocket gear marking up with the marking on the cylinder head at 12:00. Let us know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching!
By the way I own a 2015 exc 500 and I haven't checked the valves yet but I'm torn between buying the special tool to find top dead center or just do your method but it doesn't look like it will be perfect by just lining up the two dots.
Iam from India & have KTM-Bajaj collaboration made 200 NS Pulsar bike having engine similar to KTM Duke 200 , it has 4 valve SOHC setup & make tappet noise slightly even after setting tappets as per manual. What should be the culprit ? Mechanic has checked rocker arms & cam and he says they are normal
Nice job there, clear and concise, and I like how the gear doesn't have to be removed, but only the shaft on the side needed, it looks like a good idea still to check each shaft for wear patterns.
As always , my go to source to build knowledge and confidence to properly mechanic on my 500 excf I rely on Kyle at DIRT BIKE MAG. , or ROCKY . THEN I FINE TUNE BY READING COMMENTS, LIKE ADDING A DROP OF OIL TO THE SHIM . MY TAKE AND I LIVE BY THIS RULE ! IF THERE IS A TOOL MADE FOR THE JOB , IT PAYS FOR ITSELF. ROCKY MOUNTAIN IS MY GO TO FOR ALL MY TOOLS AND THE TUSK LINE UP IS NO COMPROMISE IN QUALITY. TO DATE , WORKING AT TRUING A RIM HAS BEEN MY BIGGEST CHALLENGES AND WITHOUT THE TUSK TRUING STAND , TUSK TIRE CHANGER , TUSK TORQUE SPOKE TORQUE WRENCH, TUSK TIRE SPOONS, WELL YOU GET MY POINT. I FAILED 4 ATTEMPTS AT ALIGHNING THE REAR RIM WITH TOTAL FRUSTRATION UNTIL I REALIZED I NEEDED TO START OVER BY REPLACING ALL THE SPOKE NUTS ,LUBE WITH WD40 AND TAKE CARE TO WATCH THE RUNOUT AS I TIGHTENED. REMOVE ANY OUT OF ROUND WHILE FIRST TIGHTENING THEN ONLY THE SLIGHTEST TWEAK WHEN NEAR TIGHT AFTER USING THE EVERY 4 SPOKE TIGHTENING METHOD ( WATCH ROCKYS VIDEO). AND GOOD LUCK , TAKE YOU TIME FIRST TIMERS LIKE MYSELF.
I thought that was a great video. I've worked on diesel engines for years but now have my first dirt bike. It was running a little rough so I'm going to check the valves. The video was very well done and thorough. Thank you
Thanks for the video. It will come in handy when check my valves. I buy a lot of parts from you guys, thanks. It's a lot easier after having seen this video.
Sometimes the vent cover hose can be a pain to get back on, you can simply remove it from where it is routed to (airbox) and then reinstall it to the airbox once the valve cover is back on. Also, be careful when removing the valve cover and using wrenches as you can bend/damage the radiator. Be careful of finger placement around the cam chain, if the back wheel is bumped the engine will roll to bottom and can cause injury.
This is Excellent Very Clear and easy to understand Will give it a go on the RC8R come next service (Just to check, wouldn't be to comfortable removing the pins) G.
Graham Boyle Thanks for watching. This engine design makes this process easy and straight forward. Refer to your manual. Let us know if you have any other questions.
Hey amazing videos! One question in the repair manual of this actual bike they state to remove the camshaft and chain tensioner instead of the rocker shafts to adjust the valves. What is the reason of the different approach? I like your approach more
nice tutorial! thanks! what is the torque setting for the 4 bolts that maintain the rocker arms shafts? and the torque of the plugs for the rocker arms shaft too, cannot find it in the manual. thanks
not sure what model KTM you have but on a 2013 KTM 500 xcw , rocker arm bolt torque is 15 Nm ( 11.1 ft lbs) Rocker arm shaft plug torque is 20 Nm ( 14.8 ft lbs)
I'm going to adjust mine very very soon this off season. 170hrs and its first adjustment 😬 It's a '12 500 XCW. Stubborn to start and stalls easily if I were to slowly lug the bike around. I hope this takes care of those nuisances. I do change the fuel filter and plug regularly.
@@imds123 I adjusted the valves and I still had the same issues. My problem was fixed by changing the in tank fuel filter (never changed) I had only ever changed the in line filter. Oops
I was told once that the intake tends to decrease clearance while the exhaust tends to increase the clearance gap because of the valve seat will wear from possible dirt in the intake air wearing the valve seat faster than the valve stem. Do you find this to be the case? The idea would be to run the intake tward the bigger end of the tolerance spectrum and the exhaust at the tighter end. I'm wondering if this would be a good practice?
darin amann The valve clearance gap tightens as you ride. I haven't heard of this issue before unless you have something else going on causing that problem? Generally you want to be in the middle of both tolerance spectrums, for both Intake and Exhaust. Let us know if you have another question, thanks for watching!
If all the valve clearance gap always tightens over time when riding is it not better to try get it close to the widest so it will take longer before you need to re do the shimming?
@@a64738 In theory the idea or suggestion sounds plausible, but in practice, not so much. If the question was true, it would be rare an occasion that the valve would be operating at it’s optimal gap. The engine will run much better if the gap is set correctly and rechecked at or close to the prescribed intervals
Richard Armstrong No, you can simply adjust the one side. You would want to check the other side to make sure it stayed within spec. Thanks for checking out our video!
Not sure if the valve time between the 1st and 4th stroke overlap so I brought it to top dead center between compression and combustion stroke. Might be nice to mention that.
WOw, thank you so much for this video. I always thought valve adjustments is something you really cant do yourself but this looks pretty easy. Now, I nedd to get a KTM and try this myself :) Cheers
I've just done this on my lc4 640 after an engine rebuild (bottom end), re-used piston and rings. So new con rod, crank etc.. How long should I run it in for.?
I would recommend running the bike through a few heat cycles before really getting on it but you can always refer to your service manual for proper break in procedures. Let us know if you have any questions.
It’s not a bad idea to rotate the engine forward to the next measurement cycle and to then measure the clearance, before reinstalling the covers etc...just to make sure everything is bedded down right and there’s no gear backlash etc
Hey, Just had a question for ya... This does look pretty easy. But I bought a 2015 KTM 500EXC. I've never done this before so... How much would it cost me for a dealer to do this job? VS. me buying SHIMS, GAUGES, MICROMETER OR CALIPERS??? Just asking...Thanks.
Mark Idk but tools you can buy once and use them a lifetime or close. Regular maintenance at the dealer on the other hand will cost you a lot more in the long run for sure.
any chance you can do a vid for the freeride 350 plus I,m havin trouble with waterpump seals leaking after 20 hrs ,a vid on replacing freeride 350 water pump seals would be very helpful ,I know asking a lot but worth a try LOL,thanks for takin the time to post these vids.
salisburyplain998 Man if we had the bike i'm sure we would, those are sweet bikes! That's kind of crazy they're seeping on ya only after 20 hours. I'd have ya refer to your owners manual on it
Thanks for your reply ,I love the freeride,I also have 2014 EXC 350f but ride the Freeride twice as much ,I think I have solved the water pump issue ,there was a build up of some kind on the water pump spindle that was wearing the seal so fingers crossed these seals will last a little longer ,I also have checked the valves and with 133 hrs its still just with in spec .
salisburyplain998 133 hours awesome! Glad you got her all figured out. Tracking down the problem can get frustrating, but rewarding in the end. Thanks for watching
Can anyone explain how the clearance gets out of spec? I'm surprised that the clearance on these valves was too tight and smaller shims had to be used. I'd think if anything, parts wear, so changing anything to a smaller size is not what I expected. Just curious if anyone knows what I mean and could explain. Thanks.
Hoping you can help me out here, anybody.. does that flat spot always go up on the rocker shaft? Mine was facing down, i bought it used an 09 530 exc. I keep seeing online everyone looking at a dot and saying it should be facing up mine has no dots but it looks like the flat spot is where the dot is placed. Mine are down. It was previously desmogged etc. I ran the breather to a catch can due to oil blowing out.
Why did you leave out the part where you are supposed to use the special tool to find top dead center and then you are supposed to release the tension from the camshaft also? this is what I'm reading in my service manual
Richard Armstrong What year, make and model machine are you working on? Each model bike can be different in its own way. If you have the service manual for your bike, i would recommend you follow those step by step instructions. Let us know if you have any questions and thanks for watching!
I have a 2014 KTM 450 SXF. I read the service manual and it isn't too helpful at all. It mentions to do a few other things like remove the timing chain tensioner, take timing chain off camshaft gear, and remove the camshaft. However in this video those things are not being done. Does it just not need to be done for this particular bike?
Clayton McCandless This is a 500 exc and it's a DOHC so it may be different for your SXF since it's SOHC. I don't think you need to take off the timing chain and tensioner.
Clayton McCandless I would instruct you to follow the steps mentioned in your service manual for your bike. I would have you read the steps on how to adjust your valves. From what you are mentioning, that sounds correct.
Great vid!! also going to attempt this soon, I have a question, I have a hotcams shim kit for a 2006 ltz400, would the shims work on my 2010 450 exc? Are they the same sizes and all that? Thanks!!
Great video! I'm about to attempt my first valve check this week. I have a Rekluse auto clutch in my EXC500. Can I use the kick starter to turn the motor as an alternative to turning the back wheel?
Hi medpilot We're glad to hear you are planning your first valve adjustment. It's definitely one of those jobs you are proud of after it's been complete and you're bike is running awesome! As far as using your kick starter to turn over the engine to find tdc, it would work fine. We use the rear tire in the highest gear to make it easier to turn the engine over though, depending on where your engine is in it's stroke it could be more difficult trying to use your kickstarter to find tdc but either way works... Let us know if you run into any other questions and how it goes!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thanks for the reply. Again, I would prefer to use the rear wheel as well, however the Rekluse auto clutch makes that impossible.
How come u r doing reverse the formula , formula says A=B-C+D, but u did b-c-d ?? 🙃. 0.3 - .13=.10 Now add .10mm to old shim thickness which is 2.88 that is 2.88+.10= 2.98 But u did 2.88-.10?? Why Pls explain?
joey downing If you are simply adjusting the valves only and not timing the machine then no. You will not want to have any tension on the camshaft or rocker arms and by lining up the two dots helps acheive that. You may need to rotate it twice to find the sweet spot with the least amount of tension. Still make sure to align the dots, its a good marking to go off of. Thanks for checkin out our video!
Gays I am 170 cm height and 70 kg weight.I loved Ktm 530 exc .I have plan buy this model bike are this bike will be good for me are need him lovered ? Thanks.
It looks to me like there are a couple ways to find TDC on this motor like most all the other RFS engines. You have a TDC locating screw in the engine case from which you will remove and then remove the sealing washer underneath it and then reinstall it into the case. You can then use it to find TDC by feeling for the channel in the crankshaft balancer. You can also use the marks on the camshaft gears to help you find it. I would refer to your service manual for further steps and specifications
Hey, does anyone know the stock valve timings of the KTM 500 EXC, looked everywhere including service manual and got nothing, any help here would be awesome. Cheers
+Joe Smathers Thanks for the reply. I have the service manual and is says 15nm. I asked because I recently checked my valves and had 1 intake valve slightly out of spec. After changing that 1 valve shim and re tightening the rocker arms bolts to specs in the manual, all of the valves were too tight. Seemed very odd.
Which is part of exactly why service manuals say to check the gaps after retightening. Did the ambient or engine temperatures change significantly while you were servicing the engine? That can impact the measured values. Additionally, it may just be that one or more sets of fasteners might not have been tightened to spec before you got to them. I'm not making accusations or suggesting any actions, I'm just saying that it happens. I helped a friend rebuild his CA18DET (180/240SX engine), and we ended up buying shims three times. 7 the first time, 3 the second time and 2 the last time. Can't explain exactly what was causing our problem, but by the time it was said and done those shims were perfectly within spec after dismantling and reassembling the valvetrain twice in a row. :)
my intake valve clearance should be between .10-.20 mm. on one of my intake valves it is at .76 with my feeler gauges. the other intake valve is within spec. is it safe to say the valve needs to be replaced?
lee smythe What bike are you working on? Clearances will tend to get smaller as the valve train wears so it's a little weird to find your intake clearance on the one valve so big. I wouldn't assume that it's time to replace valves. You can always try a bigger shim to get your clearance into spec and run that. When was the last time the valves were adjusted and were they done by you or someone else?
lee smythe Seems to me that your valve could be worn out. I'd tell ya to tear into it a little deeper, if ya got the money to do so ya know. Let me know what ya find out tearing into it man. Let us know if you have any other questions! Good luck!
This is the most straight forward, clear description I’ve found, thanks!
When putting new valve shims in, its always good practice to put a dab of fresh engine oil on the tops of the shims bofore reinstalling the rocker arms. Otherwise you could risk having a sort of "dry-start" situation and the shims could wear prematurely causing you to be right back where you started.
Good tip about the oil on the shim. (One of my shims had a worn spot on into it... ).125" deep......probably assembled dry at the factory
Literally I was heading out TODAY (4/27/19) to sell my 2017 KTM EXC-F 250 because I`ve been unable to find anything to really and at an in-depth level show this process, and the dealers around here want over four-hundred dollars to do it. To trade-in my bike for another two-stroke, which was the plan today, was going to cost me around three-grand (between a rubbish trade-in value and the additional money down). So someone over there (at Rocky Mountain) needs a pay raise, because whoever decided to do these videos tells me you give a shit about your customers! I`m sure I speak for most of us when I say thank you!
That sounds like a huge pain! I'm glad this video was able to help you out.
Thanks for watching and good luck with the job!
Amazing video. Thanks for posting. Will be ordering some shims because this video gave me the confidence to complete this project. You guys rocks!
That's really cool to hear! Thanks for commenting and watching our videos, appreciate it.
Nice video with good quality footage and good editing, just have a few suggestions:
I recommend torquing all removed fasteners to KTM spec, especially the bolts holding the rocker shafts in.
I oil the new shims on both sides because they will read loose when installed dry.
I also like to turn over the engine a few times after changing shims to fully seat everything where it will be in running condition, and then take the new measurements.
As others stated, highly recommend a micrometer, or at least high quality calipers to measure the shims.
Elad, no the 350 is a dual overhead cam and you have to pull the cams to change the shims.
Rocky Mountain, you guys kick a$$. Things like this are the reason you get all my business.
@Glen Hogan To time this machine you will want to have the motor at Top Dead Center, then you will align the cam sprocket gear marking up with the marking on the cylinder head at 12:00. Let us know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching!
You aren't showing the right way though.
By the way I own a 2015 exc 500 and I haven't checked the valves yet but I'm torn between buying the special tool to find top dead center or just do your method but it doesn't look like it will be perfect by just lining up the two dots.
Richard Armstrong The safest bet is to go off of what your service manual says.
Thanks
Iam from India & have KTM-Bajaj collaboration made 200 NS Pulsar bike having engine similar to KTM Duke 200 , it has 4 valve SOHC setup & make tappet noise slightly even after setting tappets as per manual. What should be the culprit ? Mechanic has checked rocker arms & cam and he says they are normal
Nice job there, clear and concise, and I like how the gear doesn't have to be removed, but only the shaft on the side needed, it looks like a good idea still to check each shaft for wear patterns.
***** Thanks a lot! Glad you enjoyed our video tutorial.
I did.
As always , my go to source to build knowledge and confidence to properly mechanic on my 500 excf I rely on Kyle at DIRT BIKE MAG. , or ROCKY . THEN I FINE TUNE BY READING COMMENTS, LIKE ADDING A DROP OF OIL TO THE SHIM .
MY TAKE AND I LIVE BY THIS RULE ! IF THERE IS A TOOL MADE FOR THE JOB , IT PAYS FOR ITSELF. ROCKY MOUNTAIN
IS MY GO TO FOR ALL MY TOOLS AND THE TUSK LINE UP IS NO COMPROMISE IN QUALITY.
TO DATE , WORKING AT TRUING A RIM HAS BEEN MY BIGGEST CHALLENGES AND WITHOUT THE TUSK TRUING STAND , TUSK TIRE CHANGER , TUSK TORQUE SPOKE TORQUE WRENCH, TUSK TIRE SPOONS, WELL YOU GET MY POINT.
I FAILED 4 ATTEMPTS AT ALIGHNING THE REAR RIM WITH TOTAL FRUSTRATION UNTIL I REALIZED I NEEDED TO START OVER BY REPLACING ALL THE SPOKE NUTS ,LUBE WITH WD40 AND TAKE CARE TO WATCH THE RUNOUT AS I TIGHTENED. REMOVE ANY OUT OF ROUND WHILE FIRST TIGHTENING THEN ONLY THE SLIGHTEST TWEAK WHEN NEAR TIGHT AFTER USING THE EVERY 4 SPOKE TIGHTENING METHOD ( WATCH ROCKYS VIDEO). AND GOOD LUCK , TAKE YOU TIME FIRST TIMERS LIKE MYSELF.
I thought that was a great video. I've worked on diesel engines for years but now have my first dirt bike. It was running a little rough so I'm going to check the valves. The video was very well done and thorough. Thank you
you such a great help man
this is the best video ive ever seen
Thanks for the video. It will come in handy when check my valves. I buy a lot of parts from you guys, thanks. It's a lot easier after having seen this video.
you guys do a great video.
could you do one for the 690 enduro ?
Nice & slow,Clear directions,Easy to fallow along,It's time to check my 06 KTM 450xc,Thanks for another great video.
Awesome video. First time 4 stroke owner adjusted my valves today. Thanks for this video and your other videos.
bungholejones Thanks! Glad to hear you got it all adjusted, thanks for watching!
Sometimes the vent cover hose can be a pain to get back on, you can simply remove it from where it is routed to (airbox) and then reinstall it to the airbox once the valve cover is back on. Also, be careful when removing the valve cover and using wrenches as you can bend/damage the radiator. Be careful of finger placement around the cam chain, if the back wheel is bumped the engine will roll to bottom and can cause injury.
Thanks for watching!
This is Excellent
Very Clear and easy to understand
Will give it a go on the RC8R come next service (Just to check, wouldn't be to comfortable removing the pins)
G.
Graham Boyle Thanks for watching. This engine design makes this process easy and straight forward. Refer to your manual. Let us know if you have any other questions.
Superb! I sure appreciate this and 2009 Ktm, 530 XC-W. This is a Fun-Powerful bike, easy to work on.
No problem! I agree and yes, i'd take a valve adjustment on this bike before any other bike! Easy as pie! Thanks for watching
you guys are awesome for making it so easy
You're always welcome! Thanks
Hey amazing videos! One question in the repair manual of this actual bike they state to remove the camshaft and chain tensioner instead of the rocker shafts to adjust the valves. What is the reason of the different approach? I like your approach more
Video doesn’t talk about setting axial play when reinstalling the intake rocker arm. Spec is 0.0039” on the left side (opposite of spark plug).
Thank You!
Also make sure that the engine is pretty much room temperature (20c)
nice tutorial! thanks! what is the torque setting for the 4 bolts that maintain the rocker arms shafts? and the torque of the plugs for the rocker arms shaft too, cannot find it in the manual. thanks
not sure what model KTM you have but on a 2013 KTM 500 xcw , rocker arm bolt torque is 15 Nm ( 11.1 ft lbs) Rocker arm shaft plug torque is 20 Nm ( 14.8 ft lbs)
I'm going to adjust mine very very soon this off season. 170hrs and its first adjustment 😬
It's a '12 500 XCW. Stubborn to start and stalls easily if I were to slowly lug the bike around. I hope this takes care of those nuisances. I do change the fuel filter and plug regularly.
Manual says the 1st hour then every 30hrs.. lol. Yea your valves are probably way out.
@@imds123 I adjusted the valves and I still had the same issues. My problem was fixed by changing the in tank fuel filter (never changed) I had only ever changed the in line filter. Oops
I was told once that the intake tends to decrease clearance while the exhaust tends to increase the clearance gap because of the valve seat will wear from possible dirt in the intake air wearing the valve seat faster than the valve stem. Do you find this to be the case? The idea would be to run the intake tward the bigger end of the tolerance spectrum and the exhaust at the tighter end. I'm wondering if this would be a good practice?
darin amann The valve clearance gap tightens as you ride. I haven't heard of this issue before unless you have something else going on causing that problem? Generally you want to be in the middle of both tolerance spectrums, for both Intake and Exhaust. Let us know if you have another question, thanks for watching!
If all the valve clearance gap always tightens over time when riding is it not better to try get it close to the widest so it will take longer before you need to re do the shimming?
@@a64738 In theory the idea or suggestion sounds plausible, but in practice, not so much. If the question was true, it would be rare an occasion that the valve would be operating at it’s optimal gap. The engine will run much better if the gap is set correctly and rechecked at or close to the prescribed intervals
Do you have to take out both rocker arms if you're only doing one side?
Richard Armstrong No, you can simply adjust the one side. You would want to check the other side to make sure it stayed within spec. Thanks for checking out our video!
Not sure if the valve time between the 1st and 4th stroke overlap so I brought it to top dead center between compression and combustion stroke. Might be nice to mention that.
*Jesse Day* That's good too. Bringing the motor to TDC before diving into the motor is a great rule of thumb to follow. Thanks.
5 year old video, but is this accurate for Husqvarna 17-19 FE (which should be identical to the 17-19 EXC-F)?
Aaron Gray yes it is almost identical. I did it on my 2018 500exc
WOw, thank you so much for this video. I always thought valve adjustments is something you really cant do yourself but this looks pretty easy. Now, I nedd to get a KTM and try this myself :) Cheers
Thanks for the comment. Yes, it really is easy! You can do it!
That's a very clear, well explained review.
great video, alot easier than I would have thought
I cant find any feeler gauges on RM that go higher than .10mm. 2022 excf uses bigger sizes.
WOW, thanks so much for this video.
Thanks guys! I love this 2009 530!
Very professional video is this procedure the same for a KTM 690 SM ?
Harold Psaila Yes, it is very similar. If you run into any questions let us know, we'll be glad to assist! Thanks for watching!
I've just done this on my lc4 640 after an engine rebuild (bottom end), re-used piston and rings.
So new con rod, crank etc..
How long should I run it in for.?
I would recommend running the bike through a few heat cycles before really getting on it but you can always refer to your service manual for proper break in procedures. Let us know if you have any questions.
amazing design with the rocker arms, cool upload thanks!
kraden18 We agree... Valve maintenance on this bike is easy as pie! Thanks for watching!
If you use a magnet stick to move the shims around, you don't need to remove the rocker arm pins
It’s not a bad idea to rotate the engine forward to the next measurement cycle and to then measure the clearance, before reinstalling the covers etc...just to make sure everything is bedded down right and there’s no gear backlash etc
Awesome video RM! Does anyone know if this process is the same for a 2013 ktm 450 sxf?
Should be
Excellent video!!! Please create one for the KTM 690!
Well done.
Can u tell me what that wire below spark plug going into engine
After watching your video, I want to buy KTM!!!
Hey, Just had a question for ya... This does look pretty easy. But I bought a 2015 KTM 500EXC. I've never done this before so... How much would it cost me for a dealer to do this job? VS. me buying SHIMS, GAUGES, MICROMETER OR CALIPERS??? Just asking...Thanks.
I guess the dealer charges an hour for the job.
Mark Idk but tools you can buy once and use them a lifetime or close. Regular maintenance at the dealer on the other hand will cost you a lot more in the long run for sure.
Great video! Thanks for sharing this knowledge with the world!
Great Video! Very good explained - thx!
Thanks *Str33tfalcon*
any chance you can do a vid for the freeride 350 plus I,m havin trouble with waterpump seals leaking after 20 hrs ,a vid on replacing freeride 350 water pump seals would be very helpful ,I know asking a lot but worth a try LOL,thanks for takin the time to post these vids.
salisburyplain998 Man if we had the bike i'm sure we would, those are sweet bikes! That's kind of crazy they're seeping on ya only after 20 hours. I'd have ya refer to your owners manual on it
Thanks for your reply ,I love the freeride,I also have 2014 EXC 350f but ride the Freeride twice as much ,I think I have solved the water pump issue ,there was a build up of some kind on the water pump spindle that was wearing the seal so fingers crossed these seals will last a little longer ,I also have checked the valves and with 133 hrs its still just with in spec .
salisburyplain998 133 hours awesome! Glad you got her all figured out. Tracking down the problem can get frustrating, but rewarding in the end. Thanks for watching
Very good guide! Thanks :D
Glad it helped! Thanks
great video will use it as a guide line
+Justin Santos Thanks! Let us know if ya have a question.
will do so my valves are done and better than ever
Great video. Just what I was looking for!!!!
Oops! You are correct.. nice catch!
Crystal clear explanation 👍
Can anyone explain how the clearance gets out of spec? I'm surprised that the clearance on these valves was too tight and smaller shims had to be used. I'd think if anything, parts wear, so changing anything to a smaller size is not what I expected. Just curious if anyone knows what I mean and could explain. Thanks.
Very nice video! Is it the same on a 2011 530 EXC?
Hoping you can help me out here, anybody.. does that flat spot always go up on the rocker shaft? Mine was facing down, i bought it used an 09 530 exc. I keep seeing online everyone looking at a dot and saying it should be facing up mine has no dots but it looks like the flat spot is where the dot is placed. Mine are down. It was previously desmogged etc. I ran the breather to a catch can due to oil blowing out.
Why did you leave out the part where you are supposed to use the special tool to find top dead center and then you are supposed to release the tension from the camshaft also? this is what I'm reading in my service manual
Richard Armstrong What year, make and model machine are you working on? Each model bike can be different in its own way. If you have the service manual for your bike, i would recommend you follow those step by step instructions. Let us know if you have any questions and thanks for watching!
Great video. Is this similar to a 2011 530 EXC?
Do you keep pushing down the opposite side of the rocker arm while measuring with the feeler gauges ?
Would i take the same steps for a 2017 500 exc-f or is it slightly different?
Very good and professional video! Thank you very much.
I have a 2014 KTM 450 SXF. I read the service manual and it isn't too helpful at all. It mentions to do a few other things like remove the timing chain tensioner, take timing chain off camshaft gear, and remove the camshaft. However in this video those things are not being done. Does it just not need to be done for this particular bike?
Clayton McCandless This is a 500 exc and it's a DOHC so it may be different for your SXF since it's SOHC. I don't think you need to take off the timing chain and tensioner.
Clayton McCandless I would instruct you to follow the steps mentioned in your service manual for your bike. I would have you read the steps on how to adjust your valves. From what you are mentioning, that sounds correct.
+Thom 1888 i think you mixed up the models, 500 exc is SOHC
Do you replace the Valve Cover gasket each time or just inspect it for serviceability?
How do you remove the rocker arm pins on a 2017 Husqvarna FE450? It's not threaded so the bolt trick doesn't work...
Thanks a lot , this is one of the best videos Ive seen. Very simple and clear. Amazing job
Terrific video!
Thanks!
Thank you!!! I'm guessing the 2014 450exc is the same as this.
nope
Great explanation, but this is why Ill stick with 2 strokes.
Great vid!! also going to attempt this soon, I have a question, I have a hotcams shim kit for a 2006 ltz400, would the shims work on my 2010 450 exc? Are they the same sizes and all that? Thanks!!
It looks like your 2010 450 EXCR uses 10mm OD Shims and the Z400 only uses the 9.48mm OD Shims so no your Z400 shim kit would not work for your KTM
Rocky Mountain ATV MC I seee!! thanks for the reply!
he neglected to mention removing the spark plug before looking for TDC and didn't discuss compression/exhaust stroke.
Great video! I'm about to attempt my first valve check this week. I have a Rekluse auto clutch in my EXC500. Can I use the kick starter to turn the motor as an alternative to turning the back wheel?
Hi medpilot We're glad to hear you are planning your first valve adjustment. It's definitely one of those jobs you are proud of after it's been complete and you're bike is running awesome! As far as using your kick starter to turn over the engine to find tdc, it would work fine. We use the rear tire in the highest gear to make it easier to turn the engine over though, depending on where your engine is in it's stroke it could be more difficult trying to use your kickstarter to find tdc but either way works... Let us know if you run into any other questions and how it goes!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thanks for the reply. Again, I would prefer to use the rear wheel as well, however the Rekluse auto clutch makes that impossible.
How come u r doing reverse the formula , formula says A=B-C+D, but u did b-c-d ?? 🙃.
0.3 - .13=.10
Now add .10mm to old shim thickness which is 2.88 that is 2.88+.10= 2.98
But u did 2.88-.10?? Why
Pls explain?
Very helpful thank you
Rocky Mountain ATV MC hey do i need to mind about the compression stroke or i just need to allign the two dot? I got a ktm 530 exc 2009
Thanks
joey downing If you are simply adjusting the valves only and not timing the machine then no. You will not want to have any tension on the camshaft or rocker arms and by lining up the two dots helps acheive that. You may need to rotate it twice to find the sweet spot with the least amount of tension. Still make sure to align the dots, its a good marking to go off of. Thanks for checkin out our video!
thanks for video tutorial. I'm wrong or in KTM RFS engines, the regulation of valves don't nedd to change nothing?
Thank you ^_^
paco valencia Thanks for watching.
When I’m doing my top end rebuild can I do this off the bike or does this need to happen before I rebuild, sorry if I sound stupid
Gays I am 170 cm height and 70 kg weight.I loved Ktm 530 exc .I have plan buy this model bike are this bike will be good for me are need him lovered ? Thanks.
Hi RM, awesome vid. Can you help me, I'm trying to measure valve clearances. How do I get TDC on a 2012 ktm 250 sxf?
It looks to me like there are a couple ways to find TDC on this motor like most all the other RFS engines. You have a TDC locating screw in the engine case from which you will remove and then remove the sealing washer underneath it and then reinstall it into the case. You can then use it to find TDC by feeling for the channel in the crankshaft balancer. You can also use the marks on the camshaft gears to help you find it. I would refer to your service manual for further steps and specifications
Hey, does anyone know the stock valve timings of the KTM 500 EXC, looked everywhere including service manual and got nothing, any help here would be awesome. Cheers
+Glen Hogan Valve clearance is: EXHAUST 0.12...0.17mm (0.0047...0.0067in)INTAKE 0.10...0.15mm (0.0039...0.0059in) This is for a 2015 KTM500EXC.
Does it matter if it’s TDC on compression or exhaust? Also is the assembly lube for the top of the shims or for the rocker arms or for both?
TDC should be when both intake and exhaust valves are closed, and the marks on cam sprocket line up with the mark on the head.
its the same adjust for exc350f 2013?
Such a clear video, thanks this helps alot :)
Why .13 was chosen for the Intake and not .10 or .11?
Excellent video
Updated video for the 2020 model and newer model
Hi,I have done my valve adjustment on my KTM 690SM.now it doesn't start.anything wrong i have done pls help me
how does it act when you try to start it???
amazing video thank you very very much...
Fair Enough ha ha thanks!
fantastic video!
Great video ! Thanks
I realize this is a couple years old now but just curious as to what Torque specs you used for the 4 rocker arm shaft bolts when you reinstalled them?
+Joseph Mosquera They used what their service manual said to use. ;)
+Joe Smathers
Thanks for the reply. I have the service manual and is says 15nm. I asked because I recently checked my valves and had 1 intake valve slightly out of spec. After changing that 1 valve shim and re tightening the rocker arms bolts to specs in the manual, all of the valves were too tight. Seemed very odd.
Which is part of exactly why service manuals say to check the gaps after retightening. Did the ambient or engine temperatures change significantly while you were servicing the engine? That can impact the measured values.
Additionally, it may just be that one or more sets of fasteners might not have been tightened to spec before you got to them. I'm not making accusations or suggesting any actions, I'm just saying that it happens.
I helped a friend rebuild his CA18DET (180/240SX engine), and we ended up buying shims three times. 7 the first time, 3 the second time and 2 the last time. Can't explain exactly what was causing our problem, but by the time it was said and done those shims were perfectly within spec after dismantling and reassembling the valvetrain twice in a row. :)
As most of your video's awesome, thanks again.
my intake valve clearance should be between .10-.20 mm. on one of my intake valves it is at .76 with my feeler gauges. the other intake valve is within spec. is it safe to say the valve needs to be replaced?
lee smythe What bike are you working on? Clearances will tend to get smaller as the valve train wears so it's a little weird to find your intake clearance on the one valve so big. I wouldn't assume that it's time to replace valves. You can always try a bigger shim to get your clearance into spec and run that. When was the last time the valves were adjusted and were they done by you or someone else?
its a 2006 ktm 250 sxf. not sure when the last time they were adjusted, just recently bought the bike.
lee smythe Seems to me that your valve could be worn out. I'd tell ya to tear into it a little deeper, if ya got the money to do so ya know. Let me know what ya find out tearing into it man. Let us know if you have any other questions! Good luck!
Awesome video!
Is the process the same or decently close for a 250 4 stroke
We have another video that should be pretty close to what you're looking for. You can check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/1lrH1U4FnRY/v-deo.html
Great Vid thank you!
Which feeler gauge do you recommend? What one was used in the video?
Go to Tusk @ Rocky
Great Video! When will you have videos with Sherco Bikes? Cheers.
Not sure yet but we'd love to get our hands on some!