I'm enjoying all the videos and feel like I'm learning something in every one. Always looking forward to the seeing a new one. Keep it up. Everyone needs to get a sticker!
They should be deeper just below the chamfer in the block to get the best seal. The core plugs are slightly tapered so they mostly seal on the big end, so there’s no meat in the chamfer area to seal good.
Easy and correct way to degree cams. Correctly Measuring piston to valve clearance. Correctly Measuring for push rod length. And setting lash for the Jessel shaft rockers. Thanks💪
Would love to hear about piston knurling, to salvage good pistons when a block is worn beyond piston to wall clearance and you don’t have enough cylinder wall thickness to rebore. Also good for parts that aren’t available any longer like old tractor stuff.
Any engines I've seen with knurled pistons have been completely worn out garbage The knurling seems dig into the cylinders and distribute the grit throughout the whole engine. I deal with many engine shops and follow dizens on IG and none will touch a knurled piston project. Engines always look good with fresh hone patterns and cleaned up parts, but what you don't see is what we see in the engine shops and that is how worn out or how many 'budget builds" fail in short time spans. I've heard over and over for many years how it ran fine and then I tear it down to find absolute garbage. Then have a customer that can't understand why we say it needs a ton of work. I have interests in the hobby but just have seen so many failed backyard builds that looked "great" when they assembled them. Same thing applies with knurled guides. When heads show up with that done to them, they are usually the worst looking heads in the shop. Beside the guides being worn out, the valves are ruined due to stem wear and the seats are pounded out due the excecive valve guide clearances. Now I'm not trying to put down peoples projects, I'm just stating what I see in the machine shops afyer many years working in them. I think the biggest issues are that folks try these procedures on engines that are truely worn beyond spit polishing up.
Not saying he used this, but the Duplicolor engine paint comes in a gloss black and looks identical to what his looks like. Make sure you use a primer first.
I've never installed a core plug, but I did read online that its best to hammer the plug from the edges, because hammering the inside will concave the plug and loosen it. This makes a lot of sense to me, any input is appreciated.
Thanks so much for the video and the explanation on these CORE plugs I applaud your valued expertise and professionalism. I'm currently installing new plugs in my small block chevy and although I don't have the blue loctite I do have some of the loctite head bolt & water jacket sealant I'm thinking that should work just as good? I hope so cause by the time I get an answer I'd have already have them installed haha thanks again for the video man you've earned yourself a follow from me 🤙
Cheers. Yesterday a core plug on my fordson dexta (a tractor) sprung a leak but I've got a replacement (I was going to do them all as a winter job). I haven't got any sealer but I'll try locktite that's a nice idea. I thought about boss white plumbing stuff let me know if you've ever used that or experienced it. Any good for this?
I’d like to learn more about figuring out HP on an engine based on the components you’re putting into it. For example, if I have a stock LS1 at 350hp and I’d like to bump that up to 400hp, what should I change? Cam? Compression ratio? Stroke? If you already have a video on this subject then please point me in the right direction. Thanks!
When doing a ls swap and you get a standalone system like the terminator x how do you get all the other electronics to work such as headlights brake light turn signals
I thread them all in FE's. I really don't like the tiny 7/16" plugs. I also don't like how the rear ones are pressed in either. One of them come out and now you also have a mess to deal with.
Thanks for this! Do you wait for the sealant to cure at all before you would fill it will coolant and drive away (if you were changing a core plug on an engine that was in place)? If so, how long?
800,000 videos on how to install freeze-out plugs, but no videos on how to install a freeze-out plug on the back side of the passenger side head on a 2007 without pulling the head or engine. 😉
IDK about other "professionals," but I would get all after an apprentice that I caught beating on the rim of one of those plugs. Good way to deform metal and gave a mystery leak dien the road.
Correctly? Not from engineering standard. The core plug outer ring is tapered and designed to be driven into the machined hole such that the lip of the plug is BELOW the surface, applying maximum tangential load to the bore. The radii on the, plug face, is to maintain an elastic spring force to the outer ring area. Glue/sealant is only to cater for porosity/pitting in the block machined hole. Never ever hit the outer ring with a hammer if you want correctly engineered installation. As an engineer having worked across multiple auto manufacturers, "i like to and we care" from aftermarket re-builders don't appear in the traists of engineering doctrine. Physics and testing are engineering first principles, pretty and personal likes are marketing things. Start with cleaning off any paint or residue from the cast and machined block holes. Examine the cast holes for porosity or pitting (second hand rusted blocks), if present then maybe a sealant will work no guarantees, better to use proper installation to avoid leaks. Yes, using a drift or large socket with a close slide fit to the plug and hammer is acceptable procedure. Drift the plug till completely driven into the machined bore, no protrusion. It's correct to locate the plug so the outer lip finishes down the bore on a non pitted/porous section. Concentrating on text alignment is the last concern. If purchasing an engine with plugs flush or protruding, reject it. If plugs have hammer deformations on the lip, reject it.
Thank you and well done! Now if you can just get people to say oil galley. and stop saying oil "gallery". After all theyre called galley plugs for a reason
5,000,000 videos on how to install a freeze-out plug, but not a video one on how to install a freeze-out plug on the back side of the passenger side head on a 2007 Chevrolet suburban 5.3
Our install tools use the inner portion for install. I've banged in well over 10,000 plugs like so and no one come back to complain about a plug failure yet.
I wasted time watching this video . Didn't need your personal opinion on why you think they are core plugs over freeze plugs. They've been called freeze plugs .Sence before you or I where born & according to the old timers that taught many students. The purpose of the plugs in their current use is. Freeze plugs to keep your block from getting damaged if the water would freeze inside block so the block doesn't cracked. Will it crack anyways. Does happen. Really to waste everyone time with your dictionary meaning of the plug. Anoyying , I didn't put the vid on to hear all that. Your opinion is a opinion. Didn't pop vid on for that. Popped on to see if useful tips ..Nothing useful. Seemed like more time spent on what the proper name & purpose is.
Funny enough, my order catologs and the kits packaging labels them expansion plugs. Same in industrial applications that just need a bore plugged, they are ordered as expansion plugs. Can't figure out why so many want to make a stink about what they're called. Most don't even work in engine shops, it's weird lol
I found it interesting and thought the video was quite well done. If they are for freeze protection they sure don't work very well since I have seen many cracked blocks from freezing. It's also a pretty well know fact that these hole are part of the casting process.
My OCD appreciates the fact that you line up the text on the plugs👍
I'm enjoying all the videos and feel like I'm learning something in every one. Always looking forward to the seeing a new one. Keep it up.
Everyone needs to get a sticker!
Thank you!
What he said
Awesome videos! Fantastic to see a young guy at the top of his game. Keep your tutorials coming there much appreciated.
Why you don’t have tens of thousands more followers is beyond me. This is one of if not the best engine building channel I’ve found. 👍
Enjoyed your explanation of the plugs and you install method.
Your videos are awesome man. looking forward to seeing more of the 632 build. Will there be a Dyno video possibly? It's gonna be a beast.
Yes there will be!
They should be deeper just below the chamfer in the block to get the best seal. The core plugs are slightly tapered so they mostly seal on the big end, so there’s no meat in the chamfer area to seal good.
Dart blocks have no chamfer on them.
@@JacobVillemain good to know
Always enjoy your content, keep it up!
Great video! love your professional approach. So, can you use "gasket maker" RTV instead of core plug sealer/blue locktite?
I did not know that's what freeze (core) plugs were for. Thanks for the informational videos. I've learned a lot from you.
You are welcome!
Id be interested in hearing your take on tuning. What programs may be good for people just learning, where to start, yadd, yada..
That’s a good one!
Whats the product number for the green sealant you use on the cam shaft core plug? thank you!
What you think about putting rtv on the plug.
Easy and correct way to degree cams.
Correctly Measuring piston to valve clearance.
Correctly Measuring for push rod length.
And setting lash for the Jessel shaft rockers. Thanks💪
Would love to hear about piston knurling, to salvage good pistons when a block is worn beyond piston to wall clearance and you don’t have enough cylinder wall thickness to rebore. Also good for parts that aren’t available any longer like old tractor stuff.
Any engines I've seen with knurled pistons have been completely worn out garbage The knurling seems dig into the cylinders and distribute the grit throughout the whole engine. I deal with many engine shops and follow dizens on IG and none will touch a knurled piston project. Engines always look good with fresh hone patterns and cleaned up parts, but what you don't see is what we see in the engine shops and that is how worn out or how many 'budget builds" fail in short time spans. I've heard over and over for many years how it ran fine and then I tear it down to find absolute garbage. Then have a customer that can't understand why we say it needs a ton of work. I have interests in the hobby but just have seen so many failed backyard builds that looked "great" when they assembled them. Same thing applies with knurled guides. When heads show up with that done to them, they are usually the worst looking heads in the shop. Beside the guides being worn out, the valves are ruined due to stem wear and the seats are pounded out due the excecive valve guide clearances.
Now I'm not trying to put down peoples projects, I'm just stating what I see in the machine shops afyer many years working in them. I think the biggest issues are that folks try these procedures on engines that are truely worn beyond spit polishing up.
What type paint do you use on your blocks?
Not saying he used this, but the Duplicolor engine paint comes in a gloss black and looks identical to what his looks like. Make sure you use a primer first.
I've never installed a core plug, but I did read online that its best to hammer the plug from the edges, because hammering the inside will concave the plug and loosen it. This makes a lot of sense to me, any input is appreciated.
Can you use blue loctite?
Thanks so much for the video and the explanation on these CORE plugs I applaud your valued expertise and professionalism. I'm currently installing new plugs in my small block chevy and although I don't have the blue loctite I do have some of the loctite head bolt & water jacket sealant I'm thinking that should work just as good? I hope so cause by the time I get an answer I'd have already have them installed haha thanks again for the video man you've earned yourself a follow from me 🤙
So if one uses steel core plugs, would you coat the bottom of the plug that faces inside the block with the pioneer goop? Would that protect it?
Cheers. Yesterday a core plug on my fordson dexta (a tractor) sprung a leak but I've got a replacement (I was going to do them all as a winter job). I haven't got any sealer but I'll try locktite that's a nice idea. I thought about boss white plumbing stuff let me know if you've ever used that or experienced it. Any good for this?
Nice video brother, Quick question How do you know how far the plug should go when installing? Thanks ✌️
So is aviation gasket okay to use (black sticky goop)
Do you have the part number for the core plug?
I’d like to learn more about figuring out HP on an engine based on the components you’re putting into it. For example, if I have a stock LS1 at 350hp and I’d like to bump that up to 400hp, what should I change? Cam? Compression ratio? Stroke? If you already have a video on this subject then please point me in the right direction. Thanks!
When doing a ls swap and you get a standalone system like the terminator x how do you get all the other electronics to work such as headlights brake light turn signals
FE oil galleys, benefit of using threaded plugs over dome disks for sealing?
I thread them all in FE's. I really don't like the tiny 7/16" plugs. I also don't like how the rear ones are pressed in either. One of them come out and now you also have a mess to deal with.
My Personal choice is never hammer on the edge of a soft plug. I also drive the plug deeper, till the edge is about to the bevel
Thanks for this! Do you wait for the sealant to cure at all before you would fill it will coolant and drive away (if you were changing a core plug on an engine that was in place)? If so, how long?
You don't use sealant on core plugs . If you install correctly they don't leak
realy good video. thanks !
Ya that 41/64th plug behind the timing cover on LM7 5.3
I would do the same fair play
Ain't nothing like; whacking a brand new block with a three pound mallet
800,000 videos on how to instal them. Nobody mentions how to REMOVE THEM.
There like 10k videos removing them
800,000 videos on how to install freeze-out plugs, but no videos on how to install a freeze-out plug on the back side of the passenger side head on a 2007 without pulling the head or engine. 😉
Tap'em, thread'em and screw in cast pipe plugs. Set back and never worry about'em again.
IDK about other "professionals," but I would get all after an apprentice that I caught beating on the rim of one of those plugs.
Good way to deform metal and gave a mystery leak dien the road.
We teach our guys to beat around the rim lol
It supposed to have some land when you install cupplugs around 1 millimeter no steelball hammer
If they aren't intended to yield under pressure, then why aren't they more substantial so that they never need to be replaced?
❔❔
Correctly? Not from engineering standard. The core plug outer ring is tapered and designed to be driven into the machined hole such that the lip of the plug is BELOW the surface, applying maximum tangential load to the bore. The radii on the, plug face, is to maintain an elastic spring force to the outer ring area. Glue/sealant is only to cater for porosity/pitting in the block machined hole. Never ever hit the outer ring with a hammer if you want correctly engineered installation. As an engineer having worked across multiple auto manufacturers, "i like to and we care" from aftermarket re-builders don't appear in the traists of engineering doctrine. Physics and testing are engineering first principles, pretty and personal likes are marketing things.
Start with cleaning off any paint or residue from the cast and machined block holes. Examine the cast holes for porosity or pitting (second hand rusted blocks), if present then maybe a sealant will work no guarantees, better to use proper installation to avoid leaks. Yes, using a drift or large socket with a close slide fit to the plug and hammer is acceptable procedure. Drift the plug till completely driven into the machined bore, no protrusion. It's correct to locate the plug so the outer lip finishes down the bore on a non pitted/porous section. Concentrating on text alignment is the last concern. If purchasing an engine with plugs flush or protruding, reject it. If plugs have hammer deformations on the lip, reject it.
Thank you and well done! Now if you can just get people to say oil galley. and stop saying oil "gallery". After all theyre called galley plugs for a reason
5,000,000 videos on how to install a freeze-out plug, but not a video one on how to install a freeze-out plug on the back side of the passenger side head on a 2007 Chevrolet suburban 5.3
Yep, freeze plugs.
Ive never used anything on core plugs… never had an issue.
Okay...my LokTite went missing...RTV? Yeah or Nay?
Thank You,,,
Should be hitting the outer ring, not the inner part with the socket...
Our install tools use the inner portion for install. I've banged in well over 10,000 plugs like so and no one come back to complain about a plug failure yet.
Way too long winded.
Well, that is some interesting camera work...sorry to be a hater, but I couldn't make it through the first minute of your video.
Too much blah blah blah to end up hitting them directly with the maze. (¬.¬)
hey, I am first lol
Welcome
I wasted time watching this video . Didn't need your personal opinion on why you think they are core plugs over freeze plugs. They've been called freeze plugs .Sence before you or I where born & according to the old timers that taught many students. The purpose of the plugs in their current use is. Freeze plugs to keep your block from getting damaged if the water would freeze inside block so the block doesn't cracked. Will it crack anyways. Does happen. Really to waste everyone time with your dictionary meaning of the plug. Anoyying , I didn't put the vid on to hear all that. Your opinion is a opinion. Didn't pop vid on for that. Popped on to see if useful tips ..Nothing useful. Seemed like more time spent on what the proper name & purpose is.
Funny enough, my order catologs and the kits packaging labels them expansion plugs. Same in industrial applications that just need a bore plugged, they are ordered as expansion plugs. Can't figure out why so many want to make a stink about what they're called. Most don't even work in engine shops, it's weird lol
I found it interesting and thought the video was quite well done. If they are for freeze protection they sure don't work very well since I have seen many cracked blocks from freezing. It's also a pretty well know fact that these hole are part of the casting process.