@@longrider42 never had any issues , I keep em oiled pretty good, I removed the scales in the past to copy the blade design to forge one on my own, it was clean.but thanks for the heads up.
I agree with a couple of the comments on bluing. Take the scales off, clean it thoroughly and give it a few coats of cold blue. That is certain to resist oxidation. Merry Christmas and thanks for the info Paul!
Love mine! They take a beating and are easily sharpened! I live in a moist area so they absolutely need oil or will rust...always the cast with high carbon! Great review! Watching from the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver island in Canada! Cheers, Kimmers and Jerbs 👍🏻🇺🇸🔥🔪🔥🇨🇦👍🏻#beup #DSKFS #22ADay
Im having the same excact surface rust problems with mine... And mine started before I even used it. But i use Lucas gun oil on my blade, and it works wonders .. I absolutely love the Savage blade style Thanks for the video
Just got mine today. I took the handle scales off, you need a small metric allen wrench. And I found some rust under the scales, used sand paper and a sanding sponge to clean that off, then a good coating of mineral oil, then put the scales back on. Sheath was very tight, so put a good coat of mineral oil on it, then pushed the knife in. Now I have a nicely formed water proofed leather sheath.
That's the second time I've heard of somebody having some rest under the scales I took mine off and I don't have any so I'll keep an eye on it but thanks for the info
Added to the dangler is a regular belt sheath loop so you have both carry options. You’re correct about the high quality leather sheath, the thickness and the stitching is top notch imho. In par, or better than even many custom leather sheaths I’ve tried.
I love the flat grind better than any others. I have s small folding knife that cleans fish very well, I have not tried it on game. I do own many knives and that's how I judge this design of blade. Thanks for you making this video, spending your money and time to publish it.
Nice review man, thanks, I've been looking at this knife. Been wanting a wide bellied slicer, and have been considering this and the Condor Scalper or Mini Hudson Bay....
Have you thought of forcing a patina on it? Or even bluing the blade? Have you looked under the handle scales to see if there is rust there. It is a nice looking blade.
I wonder if the hot vinegar patina treatment offers any protection against surface rust to these high carbon blades. Basically that treatment is controlled rust anyway, right?
Have three different BPS cutting tools and all of them are great. Good steel, they come sharp, and they hold up well in normal use; they are knives, not wedges or axes. Hmmm, rust hunh? Glad I live in Calif, I do use olive or avocado oil on the one I use for food prep; gun oils on the others. Then again, my blood must be 10% solvents by now, been using Hoppe's or Shooters Choice products on all metals I use for decades now and am still ticking away. Use LSA on the KaBar MK2 I obtained back in the mid 1970's and it still looks like it is "lightly used" in almost new condition.
High Carbon steel will rust if it's untreated. Moisture, dampness, even the oil from your hand can cause the metal to rust over time. That's why some brand of knives made of high carbon steel use a black epoxy paint on their blade to help prevent rusting. Keep your BPS knife oiled or put a force patina or blue it to prevent it from rusting. Leather can get damp or hold moisture. Keeping a carbon steel knife in a damp leather sheath can cause rust. As with your other BPS knife, it is not chrome coated/lined. It's a "polished" finish. The steel is polished until it has a mirror like shine. It can also rust if not taken care of. When use say this savage is unfished, it's actually a "brushed" finish look. Just a different style of finish.
Great knives. I don't have a problem with (light) surface rust, as long as I don't keep them in the sheaths, might be an issue with the leather/tanning process.
@@adaptablesurvival I had a nice patina on my trusty Opinel but it took some damage from an uninformed user. I gave it a rust blue and I might be in love. Just as good looking and much less likely to get hurt by someone who doesn't know to put it away only after drying and oiling.
My problem with the Savage is that the blade is just way too tall. It’s a great shape and handle on the knife, but the tall tall blade is just too goofy and unwieldy for me. The BPS adventurer is way better, to me
Ummm feather sticks are MUCH easier to make if you use the base of the blade... You're making it much harder for yourself to control... Put some grease inside the sheath that'll help a LOT 👍
What is it with everyones obsession with surface rust. Personally I love all my high carbon products to have that used, worn in look. Ads a bit more character to me. I guess I'm just a bit strange 🤣
@@adaptablesurvival I was just making a joke out of it rusting so easy that being said for that reason I don't like 1066 steel. Just the sweat from your hands and you can have some major rust issues of you don't catch it in time...
@@HrWisch That's right... I am in the Northwest, in the Rockies, so snow is just what we do... treating the knife with the rag used to treat the sheath (with Obenauf's or Sno-Seal) is just a reflex... Also, long term treatment of a bone or wooden handle requires retouching, usually with linseed oil - which hardens - So treating the tang with the handle will offer longer protection. Rust only grows where the knife don't wear, so the tang is a usual culprit. Your words are true.
I have the BPS Adventurer and I took care of the rust issues by forcing a patina on the blade with hot vinegar. Perfect.
Nice review 👌 just ordered mine from BPS ( sale offer) for food prep. I have the small recurved hunter - good small camp blade.
I have not only that knife, but several BPS, absolutely love them for the price, cannot be beat.
Take the handle scales off and check for rust. You will need a small metric allen wrench.
@@longrider42 never had any issues , I keep em oiled pretty good, I removed the scales in the past to copy the blade design to forge one on my own, it was clean.but thanks for the heads up.
But I thought 1066 is very tough and can be beat on
@@longrider42 just get some hex bits and take them off with an impact wrench
@@TheBootyWrangler I have a set of allen wrenches, and they worked just fine. Love the BPS Savage.
I agree with a couple of the comments on bluing. Take the scales off, clean it thoroughly and give it a few coats of cold blue. That is certain to resist oxidation. Merry Christmas and thanks for the info Paul!
Love mine! They take a beating and are easily sharpened! I live in a moist area so they absolutely need oil or will rust...always the cast with high carbon! Great review! Watching from the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver island in Canada! Cheers, Kimmers and Jerbs 👍🏻🇺🇸🔥🔪🔥🇨🇦👍🏻#beup #DSKFS #22ADay
Im having the same excact surface rust problems with mine... And mine started before I even used it.
But i use Lucas gun oil on my blade, and it works wonders .. I absolutely love the Savage blade style
Thanks for the video
BPS does produce a good product and they are very easy to deal with their very knowledgeable and they're always there when you need them
Just got mine today. I took the handle scales off, you need a small metric allen wrench. And I found some rust under the scales, used sand paper and a sanding sponge to clean that off, then a good coating of mineral oil, then put the scales back on. Sheath was very tight, so put a good coat of mineral oil on it, then pushed the knife in. Now I have a nicely formed water proofed leather sheath.
That's the second time I've heard of somebody having some rest under the scales I took mine off and I don't have any so I'll keep an eye on it but thanks for the info
Added to the dangler is a regular belt sheath loop so you have both carry options. You’re correct about the high quality leather sheath, the thickness and the stitching is top notch imho. In par, or better than even many custom leather sheaths I’ve tried.
Corporal Kelly referred you. Nice video. Thanks for the review!
I just picked up their B1 bushcraft (kephart style) knife. Pretty impressed so far.
I love the flat grind better than any others. I have s small folding knife that cleans fish very well, I have not tried it on game. I do own many knives and that's how I judge this design of blade. Thanks for you making this video, spending your money and time to publish it.
Nice review man, thanks, I've been looking at this knife. Been wanting a wide bellied slicer, and have been considering this and the Condor Scalper or Mini Hudson Bay....
Notified 👍 Thanks for the video and the 411!!
The corporal said check you out... So let's go!
Just ordered it! Looking forward to getting it out into the field 😎
Their customer service is pretty much second to none!
thank you for review.
Have you thought of forcing a patina on it? Or even bluing the blade? Have you looked under the handle scales to see if there is rust there. It is a nice looking blade.
I have several BPS knives they are hard to beat for the money.
I wonder if the hot vinegar patina treatment offers any protection against surface rust to these high carbon blades. Basically that treatment is controlled rust anyway, right?
Good value knife, and review, Brother !!!
Keep up the great work !!!
Have three different BPS cutting tools and all of them are great. Good steel, they come sharp, and they hold up well in normal use; they are knives, not wedges or axes. Hmmm, rust hunh? Glad I live in Calif, I do use olive or avocado oil on the one I use for food prep; gun oils on the others. Then again, my blood must be 10% solvents by now, been using Hoppe's or Shooters Choice products on all metals I use for decades now and am still ticking away. Use LSA on the KaBar MK2 I obtained back in the mid 1970's and it still looks like it is "lightly used" in almost new condition.
High Carbon steel will rust if it's untreated. Moisture, dampness, even the oil from your hand can cause the metal to rust over time. That's why some brand of knives made of high carbon steel use a black epoxy paint on their blade to help prevent rusting.
Keep your BPS knife oiled or put a force patina or blue it to prevent it from rusting.
Leather can get damp or hold moisture. Keeping a carbon steel knife in a damp leather sheath can cause rust.
As with your other BPS knife, it is not chrome coated/lined. It's a "polished" finish. The steel is polished until it has a mirror like shine. It can also rust if not taken care of.
When use say this savage is unfished, it's actually a "brushed" finish look. Just a different style of finish.
Cool review!
Added a patina to my adventurer. So far so good.
Will have to check it out
It is not chrome lining, it is polishing.
Never Heared they had halvanics in production, though.
Good looking knife and review , thanks for sharing , God bless !
Looks pretty good. I'd get one. Looking forward to seeing your custom knife too man!
Great knives. I don't have a problem with (light) surface rust, as long as I don't keep them in the sheaths, might be an issue with the leather/tanning process.
Great job Paul!
a spear point sabre grind is my to go choice
sounds like a good candidate for rust bluing. At $40 I might just have to give it a try.
Yeah, I'm thinking of doing a vinegar patina.
@@adaptablesurvival I had a nice patina on my trusty Opinel but it took some damage from an uninformed user. I gave it a rust blue and I might be in love.
Just as good looking and much less likely to get hurt by someone who doesn't know to put it away only after drying and oiling.
Paul please take a look at WC knifes you won't go wrong but a bit pricey but quality areloom forever
Thanks for the review.
I have a couple of their small camp knives. Have been thinking about getting a larger knife
Look at their HK5, so far its my favorite all around camp cutter, then again I also carry a larger blade for more robust tasks.
WOW that's a cool knife
P.S. Using Mineral oil on the sheath, inside and out, water proofs the sheath and helps keep the knife from rusting.
Glory to Ukraine!!! Thanks for review 🇺🇦🤝🏻🇺🇲💪🏻
I plan on degreasing mine and giving it a vinegar bath followed by a steel wool buffing.
Good review. A lot of knife for 40 bucks. Thanks.
Love the videos brother! Where did you get that woobie jacket? I wouldn’t mind buying one for myself
Thanks! I got this one from Perseverance Survival.
@@adaptablesurvival awesome! Thank you for taking the time to reply brother 🇺🇸
1066 I think that's why you are getting that surface grime
Great affordable knife.! Like to know how will it run after 6 months of useage. Cheers mate.
I noticed a lot of people don't wear their leather gloves when they're working with the wood with knives I wonder why
I don't usually wear gloves too often. Unless I'm doing alot of work or I'm collecting fire materials quickly.
My problem with the Savage is that the blade is just way too tall. It’s a great shape and handle on the knife, but the tall tall blade is just too goofy and unwieldy for me.
The BPS adventurer is way better, to me
Blue the knife, easy fix
I just force patina mine, boil apple cider vinegar, and steep the knife in it off the heat.
No specs on the knife?
Ummm feather sticks are MUCH easier to make if you use the base of the blade... You're making it much harder for yourself to control...
Put some grease inside the sheath that'll help a LOT 👍
What is it with everyones obsession with surface rust. Personally I love all my high carbon products to have that used, worn in look. Ads a bit more character to me. I guess I'm just a bit strange 🤣
Remove chrome by soaking it in vinegar
1066 steel is made by melting down old bean and soup cans...
Does it cut any different?
@@adaptablesurvival I was just making a joke out of it rusting so easy that being said for that reason I don't like 1066 steel. Just the sweat from your hands and you can have some major rust issues of you don't catch it in time...
@Grunt-pr7od all good my dude. Yeah it's a bit crazy it rusts so easy. But I've kept it well oiled so no issues since.
Soak your sheath in your oil it will help with that
Oil don't stay... Try wax. ; )
Not a bad idea!
Beeswax is nice for a food prep knife. You can also mix it with food grade oil and make a paste. Or buy seasoning paste like Buzzy Wax.
@@HrWisch That's right... I am in the Northwest, in the Rockies, so snow is just what we do... treating the knife with the rag used to treat the sheath (with Obenauf's or Sno-Seal) is just a reflex... Also, long term treatment of a bone or wooden handle requires retouching, usually with linseed oil - which hardens - So treating the tang with the handle will offer longer protection. Rust only grows where the knife don't wear, so the tang is a usual culprit. Your words are true.
It might be a collector's item when Russia beats Ukraine.
russian sucker?
Found this channel from corporals corner, dope stuff!
boiling vinegar. No rust, patina.