The first 5 minutes of this is probably to most helpful instruction I’ve seen on Spey casting in general. The biggest challenge I’ve had transitioning into Spey Casting since moving from Montana to Washington, is getting rid of the habit that my top hand should do all the work. When I watched this I went out to the river the next day and had an epiphany and since then my lower hand has really begun to do more of the job it’s intended for.
Surely one of the best instructional videos out there. Thank you. Many years ago at Scone you taught me about the "fulcrum". Revolutionised my otherwise brutal casting technique within 15 mins. One of the best casters I've ever seen too. So glad you are doing these videos 👍
I remember many years ago Peter came over to me at a game fair (when I was about 12) and gave me a quick lesson to get my cast to straighten into the wind, I never forgot that advice! Great video, as always thanks....what line? I don't see it mentioned Ta
Thank you Andrew, your the only one that emphasizes a couple of little important details, like pointing the rod completely down stream parallel to the line on the dangle, and after the initial lift, still pointing the rod downstream, I always messed up my single spey whenever I started pointing my rod tip anywhere else other than completely downstream, and then with bodyweight shift, backfoot to front foot, together with the outward swing before the sweep, it has helped me tremendously perfecting my technic. I'm incorporating it with shooting heads as I'm using it for small to medium rivers, I'm currently experimenting with how slow I can make the lift, the outward tilt, and the swing, and with something I call French kissing the anchor, sort of letting the water and leader make out, meaning letting the anchor sit a little bit extra time, maybe half a second to a full second more, which I use for a couple of things, first I keep swinging the rod a little bit more around to increase the angle, before I drift upward, to initiate the forward cast, while also pulling the leader more strait, it lines everything up for a better tracking, the reason I'm doing this is to remove any slack in the line, and keeping the tension high in the whole system, and also have an edge on the wind, instead of swinging the rod and line a full 90 degrees, with more time in the air which would/could potentially letting the wind get it and blow it of course, I'm only changing the initial angle about 60-75 degrees before the anchor sets, and changing the rest 15-30 degrees after the anchor, meaning less time with line in the air, I tried to increase the initial speed to create more energy in the backcast, but it didn't work, I lost control, and it looks absolutely fab with the sudden change of tempo, from everything up to the forward cast being slow, to launch with high speed, it creates long casts up to 45-50 yards, often way more than I need. It puzzles me I can cast that far without also having similar speed in the backcast, the physics doesn't ad up, but it sure works. Keep making these vids, your extra knowledge is much appreciated.
Good instruction and video. Assume you were using a spey line as opposed to a scandi shooting head given you had a long 60' of line out of rod tip? Length of head v rod length can be a confusing issue in context of line type.
The best caster I've met and by some distance.
The first 5 minutes of this is probably to most helpful instruction I’ve seen on Spey casting in general. The biggest challenge I’ve had transitioning into Spey Casting since moving from Montana to Washington, is getting rid of the habit that my top hand should do all the work. When I watched this I went out to the river the next day and had an epiphany and since then my lower hand has really begun to do more of the job it’s intended for.
Surely one of the best instructional videos out there. Thank you. Many years ago at Scone you taught me about the "fulcrum". Revolutionised my otherwise brutal casting technique within 15 mins. One of the best casters I've ever seen too. So glad you are doing these videos 👍
I’ve waited a long while for this video from you and I’m not disappointed. Thanks Andrew!
Thank you Robert 👍
I remember many years ago Peter came over to me at a game fair (when I was about 12) and gave me a quick lesson to get my cast to straighten into the wind, I never forgot that advice! Great video, as always thanks....what line? I don't see it mentioned Ta
Hi the line is an Carron Pro line that I done for Carron Rod & Case company many years ago.
Great demonstration, thanks Andrew!
Thank you.
Great video as always. Your tuition and practise made such a difference for me this season. That beat looks great with a bit more flow
Thank you.
Great video ,simple explanation for all levels!!! 🙌🙌🙌
Thank you Andrew, your the only one that emphasizes a couple of little important details, like pointing the rod completely down stream parallel to the line on the dangle, and after the initial lift, still pointing the rod downstream, I always messed up my single spey whenever I started pointing my rod tip anywhere else other than completely downstream, and then with bodyweight shift, backfoot to front foot, together with the outward swing before the sweep, it has helped me tremendously perfecting my technic. I'm incorporating it with shooting heads as I'm using it for small to medium rivers, I'm currently experimenting with how slow I can make the lift, the outward tilt, and the swing, and with something I call French kissing the anchor, sort of letting the water and leader make out, meaning letting the anchor sit a little bit extra time, maybe half a second to a full second more, which I use for a couple of things, first I keep swinging the rod a little bit more around to increase the angle, before I drift upward, to initiate the forward cast, while also pulling the leader more strait, it lines everything up for a better tracking, the reason I'm doing this is to remove any slack in the line, and keeping the tension high in the whole system, and also have an edge on the wind, instead of swinging the rod and line a full 90 degrees, with more time in the air which would/could potentially letting the wind get it and blow it of course, I'm only changing the initial angle about 60-75 degrees before the anchor sets, and changing the rest 15-30 degrees after the anchor, meaning less time with line in the air, I tried to increase the initial speed to create more energy in the backcast, but it didn't work, I lost control, and it looks absolutely fab with the sudden change of tempo, from everything up to the forward cast being slow, to launch with high speed, it creates long casts up to 45-50 yards, often way more than I need. It puzzles me I can cast that far without also having similar speed in the backcast, the physics doesn't ad up, but it sure works. Keep making these vids, your extra knowledge is much appreciated.
simple great instruction, i found it very useful ...... thanks
Great, informative video. And from one of my favourite Beat’s on one of my favourite pools😀 Dewars Pool, Upper Craig🎣
Super video Andrew thanks for that 👍
Great presentation Andrew. Will you do a newer one on single handed spey/switch casting? I saw your earlier one from years ago.
Hi thank you, yes I aim to update a number of videos on both single and double handed technique.
great instruction!
Thank you
Great cast and demonstration….
Very clear instruction Andrew, thank you very much! May I ask what set-up of rod and line you are using on this video?
This was the FX1 15ft rod however this is now superseded by the FX2. The line was my 65ft Spey Line.
Thank you Andrew! @@AndrewToftSpeycasting
Good instruction and video. Assume you were using a spey line as opposed to a scandi shooting head given you had a long 60' of line out of rod tip? Length of head v rod length can be a confusing issue in context of line type.
Are you using Carron pro line ?
What size of rod thanks
This one was a 15FX1 but my preference is usually around 14ft
Very bonny casting as ever!