Graham, Thx for your excellent instructional videos. I admire your ability to communicate the troubleshooting process so well in addition to your superior technical knowledge.
Good job. I wish I understood more about micro-electronics. My Dad taught me about electricity when transistors were the size of my little fingernail. They had heat sensing characteristics back then and I won a science fair with the device that he helped me build. Thanks Dad. I love you.
Well done Graham! I love and admire the way you teach. I watch other board repair techies, but non are as calm and meticulous as you are. And most importantly, explaining in detail what is happening and what you are doing. Your focus in your videos is to teach more than just to make money! And I respect that!
Love that you take on such old devices still. Somehow those are always the most satisfying to me. Something about making something so old work again and extending it's life.
Watching you reassemble without testing introduced tension… those power cycles heightened that tension… but when the screen lit up, the release was sublime, well played 👍
8:58 - as we all know, "via" is indeed the Latin for "through". Interesting that in this setting Graham like all computer buffs uses the *correct* pronunciation of the Latin "i", but in normal speech we say the "i" as in "higher".
That’s because Great Vowel Shift and stuff. Bastardizes the English language to this day, where (especially Americans, with a very diverse country, i.e. many non English names/words) people pronounce diphthongs (even of originally foreign languages, but still) wrongly. -Steins become „steens“, Biebers are written „beibers“; “vowels” become “not actually vowels” (“i” becomes the diphthong [ai], “o” becomes [ou], “a” becomes [ɛi])… His inner nerd channeled actual, correct(er) Latin. 😅 Although I think the British are more consistent with pronouncing “i” within words as [i], and stuff like “routing” ([rooting] vs [rauting]?), anti (antee or antie?) etc. Fun stuff; cheers.
BIOS battery woes! Dealt with a older Acer 4420, every indication pointed to a shorted cap somewhere. Spent a few minutes and no short present. ???. Remember one of your discussions about the bios battery. Why not said I. Checked the battery, needless to say the laptop has to be just short of being tore apart to gain access. Brilliant engineering! New battery and the old lady came to life instantly. Moral of the story, if I need to open up any computer either laptop or desk model, just replace the battery. Thanks for a great video.
I see a lot of no-posts that are down to flat BIOS batts, and they usually don't make it to video because it's a 30second fix - but at some point I need to do a compilation to prove a point, always check the easy stuff! The more technical repairs you know the more you forget that sometimes it really can be something simple.
Thanks for uploading this video. Good methodology used for diagnosing the fault. I am definitely considering on getting my hands on a thermal camera....looking forward to more videos.
I've never soldered a thing in my life - most I've done is renew thermal paste on a CPU and upgrade the heatsink & fan, lol - but find these vids fascinating!
Well, holiday season coming up, get yourself a TS100 or clone, and a couple of cheap DIY soldering kits and try it out! Even if you don't plan on fixing motherboards, trying your hand at soldering and having the basic skills under your belt is a good time!
@@Adamant_IT 👍Thanks for the nudge! Saying that, I _do_ have an old Dell gaming desktop in which the CMOS battery cradle/socket sheared off the MB when I tried to change the cell, so... 👨💻
I have worked on many of these models of Dells. As well as older and newer models. For some reason Dells will do this strange thing of not going to post after repairs, upgrading or replacing parts. I use to get worried. But now I just keep powering on until it works. As a Dell repair technician. I can say that this is very common. But don't know why. All I can suggest is to relax and be patient. None of the other manufacturers seem to have this issue. I am a certified repair tech for HP, Lenovo (IBM), Toshiba, Dell, Sony, ASUS and ACER. In my experience. Only Dells do this. Sometimes it can take several power ups for Dells to seem to work after any repairs or upgrades. I have to get certified on all of these companies newest models every year. Yet Dell is the only one that consistently has this problem. Don't open it up again. Just power on until it works and it usually will work perfectly once it gets past this post issue. While a CMOS battery may need to be replaced. It is not the cause of the problem. I suspect basic firmware programming issues. As it will eventually post even with a dead CMOS battery. With that said. HP is the biggest pain in the technobutt when it comes to branding a new motherboard. Not relevant in this case. But I really hate the branding procedures of an HP motherboard. Dell has the easiest branding procedures. IMHO
Yea, that CMOS batt was dead, but I think you're right, I think it would've posted anyway if I'd given it more re-tries. Dell do seem to be the worst for this in my experience as well. Happy once they're working, but bad starters when the board has been messed with.
I’m there with you about HP . I’m not certified tech but with my knowledge and experience that DELL is reliable and not fancy machine and covertly SONY is fancy and not reliable machine. So it’s up to end-user choice.
Since you mentioned Asus. I’ve a question. Please read this this and give me your thinking. I’m new to Asus and usually have bad experience with it. Asus Z240IC H170? I just replaced USB Hub which located under the MB. I took out MB then the broken USB hub and put the new one in and put MB and everything back. When I powered it on, everything turned on but no image/picture on the screen. What did I do wrong? Please help…
@@deent5186 If you are getting sound but no picture. Then I would check the LVDS cable, try reseating it. But of course, make sure the power is unplugged. Otherwise you may blow a fuse or diode that provides power to the screens backlight. Also, you can try shinning a flashlight very closely to the screen at an angle and look for any signs of an image. It will be very hard to see. If you can barely make out an image and reseating the LVDS didn't help. Then check out your backlight circuit. Here is a YT channel that has the boardview for you model. ua-cam.com/video/Ba1HiJHVgkg/v-deo.html
As can be seen by the proximity of that "secondary power supply" to the battery connector, the voltage, that rail is running at, is the battery voltage. So that "secondary power supply" is also the battery charger. As in (basically) all MacBooks, the whole systems runs on the battery voltage ("PPBUS_G3H"). When there is no battery installed, that rail is simply set to the end-of-charge voltage of the battery.
The secondary power supply does not go to an arbitrary value but (at least with Apple) to the battery charging voltage. That is also the reason that it jumps up a little bit once the SMC is happy about things. In that way the battery is prevented from (over) charging before that time.
if you just unplug the CMOS battery, then plug PSU in, then it should come on. If the bios settings are scrambled then won't POST. I had this issue on Latitude E7440 (Core-i7)
These Dell Latitudes are great to take apart if you are doing anything other than motherboard removal, but yeah as I was fixing my E6430 with also a shorted cap, motherboard removal definitely meant you gotta flip this thing back and forth to remove a bunch of screws...
HELP PLEASE!! Thankyou again Graham for sharing your knowledge and wisdom - very much appreciated 🙏. I hesitate to ask anything more of you man so I wonder if someone in the community may be able to help me a little further however. I located two blown caps on my Alienware 17 and identified them as 10uF in 0805 package. The schematic shows the following part number 10U_0805_25V6K so I assume they're 25Volt but I don't have any idea if the 6K at the end is important at all and further when I go to order them through Digikey there are Ceramic, Tantalum, Tantalum Polymer, and Niobium Oxide options available and I'm not sure which option to go with. If anyone could advise me please I'd much appreciate that as well. NB the blown ones are so utterly fried they look like they've been hit with an arc welder so I can't discern anything from them at all they are just a blob. Thankyou in advance 🙏🤞
I need your help. I am working on a Lenovo thinkpad E580 and I came accross a shorted ( looks like an IC) the only writtings on it is (RFAHA). any idea what that is? and how can I get a new one so I continue with the repair. thanks
Hi Graham. Nice work. I have the same isue with a laptop, but I don't have replacement capacitors. My question is will the laptop work without those capacitors ? Thank you for an answer.
Probably. It depends on which capacitor has died. You won't damage the laptop by attempting to run it with caps missing, so feel free to try. Worst that can happen is that it's unstable and crashes, if the cap was bypassing something important.
I have a laptop exactly like this one, simply love the model! Of course it has maxed out RAM and SSD's, but CPU is not that great. Running W11 22H2 btw!
HELLO ADAMENT! Am an avid Subscriber, you are my first 'Go to' when diagnosing PC issues! I recently built a new Computer in my old Tower with an MSI Z390-A PRO Motherboard with an Intel Pentium Gold Processor G5400 CPU @ 3.7GHz! Next added 64.0 GB DDR4 3200 Ram! Also a ZOTAC GAMING GeForce GTX 1 Video Card! Recently upgraded all my HHD's with an Intel 660p Series M.2 1 TB SSD Drive C and two WD I TB internal SSD's! My Computer now boots up completely for a cold start in 30 seconds!!!! (Once in a while when I turn it on, it Boots into the Bios Screen)!!!(But when I wont to boot into Bios, no matter what key combination I press it wont go into Bios on Command)! Windows will not display on my Digital Monitor but I can see the Bios Screen on another HDMI Output to my 32 inch TV! Am running XMP Mode and Gaming Mode on the MSI along with allocating 3/4 of my Ram to Process my Adobe Premiere 2022! My Question is: How do I get the computer to Boot into Windows EVERY TIME? And secondly, How do I get my computer to boot into Bios on command?
Try disabling XMP first to see if the problem disappears. 4-module memory kits can be tricky. If disabling XMP fixes it, you'll know it's memory related, and can move forward from there. Try a BIOS update as well.
My old Lat C640 has this same issue....i dont have all the equipment as you do...should I just try to get a new DC jack and install it? it would be faster and cheaper in my opinion
I have many many many books on electronics since I started before the internet existed and my recommend would be 'A practical introduction to electronic circuits' by Martin Hartley Jones. It is an old book now but the fundamentals that it talks about - voltage, current, resistance, input and output impedance etc have not changed with time except components are smaller and logic runs faster and and lower voltage. It is also not too large so you stand a chance of reading it all. Available very cheaply - £2.35 on ebay right now. But, at the same time you must, must practice and not just read. My advice would be get some solderless breadboard and old school components with leads while you are learning the basics. That along with a decent variable power supply and a nice meter and there is so much you can do. Good luck.
Obviously this is a great teaching tool, that being said for running a repair business would it just make more sense to replace the board? Here in the US you can find used board for as low as $25. Just thinking from a time and cost effectiveness stand point its just not worth while spending that amount of time on it.
Mainly practise for the more expensive jobs. $25 is super cheap though, yea... They're about $50 in the UK, so still cheap, but not quite $25-no-brainer. The usual answer to this is that, let's say a replacement board is more like $80, which is typical for a lot of laptops, replacement would be 80+50 labour, so 130 total with 50 profit. If I can fix the board, I can charge at least $100 board-repair fee, and that would be 100 total with 100 profit. Cheaper for the customer, and double the money in my pocket. So it's a trade off, fixing boards will yield a much higher profit if you know what's wrong with it. But yea, on old stuff as soon as it's not an easy one I'd usually duck out and find a used board.
RAM training is a process where BIOS detects what memory is present and what speed/timings it needs to run at. This usually involves one or two power cycles to test those settings - which is why many laptops and desktop mobos turn off and on a few times after a BIOS reset. If you don't know what's happening, it looks like it's broken and just stuck in a loop, but RAM Training can sometimes take 30-60 seconds if the board is having a rough time. There are other things the BIOS might be doing that look like this, but a lot of people just say "RAM training" as a place holder for "getting its shit together"
BST-050 JP superfine. The grips are kinda meh, feel very plasticky, but they're sharp enough to stab a dew drop. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001557245171.html
great video really enjoyed the testing process although was kinda hoping for a scrambled bios still waiting for you to use the 3d printed programmer case lol.
The CMOS battery will not prevent a laptop of computer from POSTing. It will mean not settings will be retained if the battery is dead and ask each time on boot, to enter BIOS. The CMOS battery only has two wires for ground and power, no signal. The battery only kicks in when there is no mains power going to the motherboard to retain all BIOS settings. While power is running through to the Motherboard, the battery will not be used. Default settings will be used on the BIOS with flat batteries and thus ask you to enter BIOS to change the settings. Ok, it was still worth changing the battery, however, it wouldn't have stopped the laptop from booting up. Swapping the RAM may have and I have encountered that issue. It is noted that also the larger RAM stick should always go in DIMM slot 1/A1 if you were to use Single Channel and they are two different sizes as THAT can prevent POST and booting.
You checked if your CPU VCC is shorted to ground - but that is not the actual problem during injection. Your real problem is the high side mosfet being shorted drain to source because that will allow the injected voltage to flood the CPU VCC and fry your CPU.
I use the Sequre SQ-ES126 - you can get it direct from Sequre here. It's not cheap, but this thing has been an absolute workhorse. Affiliate link, offer code ADAMANTIT for 3% off 👌 sequremall.com/?ref=fl20o11jut
Did you try to take a look at brymen multimeters? You could take a look at bm869s. I understood that they are almost as good as fluke but cheaper. I have bm867s but I'm a total noob on electronics, so I can't tell you if it's good or not. But it was recommended to me by an experienced guy. I hope it helps.
hi sir. i have been watching your videos. i prefer your style. logical this easy for us to understand the flow of troubleshooting. my question, is this method applicable to mobile phone troubleshooting? thank you. much love from Malaysia
25v, the 33 on it likely means 33uF (microfarad). I would check a schematic to be sure, but large bulk-bypass caps like these are usually fairly generic.
Graham, Thx for your excellent instructional videos. I admire your ability to communicate the troubleshooting process so well in addition to your superior technical knowledge.
Thank you very much!
@@Adamant_IT Thanks do you by any chance know sorin
Good job. I wish I understood more about micro-electronics. My Dad taught me about electricity when transistors were the size of my little fingernail. They had heat sensing characteristics back then and I won a science fair with the device that he helped me build. Thanks Dad. I love you.
Great repair today, loved the extra information and explanations. Keep up the good work.
Beautiful bit of soldering on those caps - nice to see them all line up on their own.
Interesting - this vid has only been out a couple of mins at the time of writing yet your comment is dated 19 hours ago: what have I missed?
@@chrismoule7242 Patreon early access 😏
@@somewaresim Aaah yes of course - thank you.
@@chrismoule7242 Faster than light time-travel.
😅
Well done Graham! I love and admire the way you teach. I watch other board repair techies, but non are as calm and meticulous as you are. And most importantly, explaining in detail what is happening and what you are doing. Your focus in your videos is to teach more than just to make money! And I respect that!
Love that you take on such old devices still. Somehow those are always the most satisfying to me. Something about making something so old work again and extending it's life.
i don't know what you're talking about half the time but love to watch you repair and explain as you go along.
Thanks for taking the time to explain your trouble shooting. Caps soldering better than factory!
Watching you reassemble without testing introduced tension… those power cycles heightened that tension… but when the screen lit up, the release was sublime, well played 👍
Wow! What a great job troubleshooting and explaining.👏
Absolutely love your videos, it works as a tutorial for me and nice story to watch which relax. Keep it going Adam well done you.
8:58 - as we all know, "via" is indeed the Latin for "through". Interesting that in this setting Graham like all computer buffs uses the *correct* pronunciation of the Latin "i", but in normal speech we say the "i" as in "higher".
That’s because Great Vowel Shift and stuff. Bastardizes the English language to this day, where (especially Americans, with a very diverse country, i.e. many non English names/words) people pronounce diphthongs (even of originally foreign languages, but still) wrongly. -Steins become „steens“, Biebers are written „beibers“; “vowels” become “not actually vowels” (“i” becomes the diphthong [ai], “o” becomes [ou], “a” becomes [ɛi])…
His inner nerd channeled actual, correct(er) Latin. 😅
Although I think the British are more consistent with pronouncing “i” within words as [i], and stuff like “routing” ([rooting] vs [rauting]?), anti (antee or antie?) etc. Fun stuff; cheers.
Love the way those Caps flowed into place - Very satisfying!!
thanks for the "nostalgic" trip on this "Let's fix..." 👏 good to see another "oldschool style" DELL fix...thanks Sir! Very good job!
It's so nice you caught them jumping into place on camera. GREAT REPAIR..
BIOS battery woes! Dealt with a older Acer 4420, every indication pointed to a shorted cap somewhere. Spent a few minutes and no short present. ???. Remember one of your discussions about the bios battery. Why not said I. Checked the battery, needless to say the laptop has to be just short of being tore apart to gain access. Brilliant engineering! New battery and the old lady came to life instantly. Moral of the story, if I need to open up any computer either laptop or desk model, just replace the battery.
Thanks for a great video.
I see a lot of no-posts that are down to flat BIOS batts, and they usually don't make it to video because it's a 30second fix - but at some point I need to do a compilation to prove a point, always check the easy stuff! The more technical repairs you know the more you forget that sometimes it really can be something simple.
I love the way you show us on a multimeter It is really helpful for beginners ❤❤
Thoroughly enjoy it and thank you. Great knowledge inputs guy and well presented.
Graham i will have to give you great credit you would be a great Tech teacher.
Thanks for uploading this video. Good methodology used for diagnosing the fault. I am definitely considering on getting my hands on a thermal camera....looking forward to more videos.
no worries ... display on the meter is very well visable !
Awsome job bud,well done,i loved the fault finding ,superb
Damn, now that's what I called a soothing commentary, great work sir. 👌
I only started doing board repair and this is very helpful
I've never soldered a thing in my life - most I've done is renew thermal paste on a CPU and upgrade the heatsink & fan, lol - but find these vids fascinating!
Well, holiday season coming up, get yourself a TS100 or clone, and a couple of cheap DIY soldering kits and try it out! Even if you don't plan on fixing motherboards, trying your hand at soldering and having the basic skills under your belt is a good time!
@@Adamant_IT 👍Thanks for the nudge! Saying that, I _do_ have an old Dell gaming desktop in which the CMOS battery cradle/socket sheared off the MB when I tried to change the cell, so... 👨💻
If the pads are torn, that'll be a difficult place to start. If the pads are intact, should be an easy fix!
A good cap will show infinite DC resistance once it is charged, and a small capacitor will charge pretty fast (your DMM charges it).
I have worked on many of these models of Dells. As well as older and newer models. For some reason Dells will do this strange thing of not going to post after repairs, upgrading or replacing parts. I use to get worried. But now I just keep powering on until it works. As a Dell repair technician. I can say that this is very common. But don't know why. All I can suggest is to relax and be patient. None of the other manufacturers seem to have this issue. I am a certified repair tech for HP, Lenovo (IBM), Toshiba, Dell, Sony, ASUS and ACER. In my experience. Only Dells do this. Sometimes it can take several power ups for Dells to seem to work after any repairs or upgrades. I have to get certified on all of these companies newest models every year. Yet Dell is the only one that consistently has this problem. Don't open it up again. Just power on until it works and it usually will work perfectly once it gets past this post issue. While a CMOS battery may need to be replaced. It is not the cause of the problem. I suspect basic firmware programming issues. As it will eventually post even with a dead CMOS battery. With that said. HP is the biggest pain in the technobutt when it comes to branding a new motherboard. Not relevant in this case. But I really hate the branding procedures of an HP motherboard. Dell has the easiest branding procedures. IMHO
Yea, that CMOS batt was dead, but I think you're right, I think it would've posted anyway if I'd given it more re-tries. Dell do seem to be the worst for this in my experience as well. Happy once they're working, but bad starters when the board has been messed with.
@@Adamant_IT Thanks for the reply. I just wish I could figure out why Dells, in particular, do this.
I’m there with you about HP . I’m not certified tech but with my knowledge and experience that DELL is reliable and not fancy machine and covertly SONY is fancy and not reliable machine. So it’s up to end-user choice.
Since you mentioned Asus. I’ve a question. Please read this this and give me your thinking. I’m new to Asus and usually have bad experience with it.
Asus Z240IC H170? I just replaced USB Hub which located under the MB. I took out MB then the broken USB hub and put the new one in and put MB and everything back. When I powered it on, everything turned on but no image/picture on the screen. What did I do wrong? Please help…
@@deent5186 If you are getting sound but no picture. Then I would check the LVDS cable, try reseating it. But of course, make sure the power is unplugged. Otherwise you may blow a fuse or diode that provides power to the screens backlight. Also, you can try shinning a flashlight very closely to the screen at an angle and look for any signs of an image. It will be very hard to see. If you can barely make out an image and reseating the LVDS didn't help. Then check out your backlight circuit. Here is a YT channel that has the boardview for you model. ua-cam.com/video/Ba1HiJHVgkg/v-deo.html
Very Nice. Thanks, man!
Great lecture to learn from. Thanks!
Brilliant thanks Great work and technique
As can be seen by the proximity of that "secondary power supply" to the battery connector, the voltage, that rail is running at, is the battery voltage. So that "secondary power supply" is also the battery charger. As in (basically) all MacBooks, the whole systems runs on the battery voltage ("PPBUS_G3H"). When there is no battery installed, that rail is simply set to the end-of-charge voltage of the battery.
Well done and very informative. Thank you for sharing.
this is great. you've done an amazing job explaining. much apricated...
Nice work! Great teacher!
Great video. Looking forward to a future void injection video as well as voltage injection 😂 @22.00
Never get tired watching others work :)
Nice video!! Great work with the hot air! That dream never happened to me yet :)
excellent work well done
Great video!! Thanks!!
The secondary power supply does not go to an arbitrary value but (at least with Apple) to the battery charging voltage. That is also the reason that it jumps up a little bit once the SMC is happy about things. In that way the battery is prevented from (over) charging before that time.
Thank you very much, you're the best
Naughty capacitor department🤣🤣nice one.
@@TheSpotify95 yes I know naughty capacitors are mostly the fault components 👍
A thermal camera is invaluable. It reduces very much the time of diagnosis. Nice video!
Nice work as always
if you just unplug the CMOS battery, then plug PSU in, then it should come on. If the bios settings are scrambled then won't POST. I had this issue on Latitude E7440 (Core-i7)
Nice, you would be a great teacher , really easy to follow. What camera do you use,its not a microscope but it gives great picture?
Bench-cam is a Logitech BRIO. Webcams can do pretty decent picture quality when manual-focused and given plenty of light!
Thanks for sharing your skills.
Not only I'd love to watch yours movies becouse of getting some knowlede but also that your accent helps me with learning better English :)
Excellent work 👍
Very nicely done!
These Dell Latitudes are great to take apart if you are doing anything other than motherboard removal, but yeah as I was fixing my E6430 with also a shorted cap, motherboard removal definitely meant you gotta flip this thing back and forth to remove a bunch of screws...
Betting that errant jumping cap is in the beard.
Great solder work keep up the stream's.
As Alex would have put it that capacitor thing flew into the 9TH Dimension!😆 I must say that soldering job was spectacular even Alex would be proud!😁
Or SuperGT might say it bounced off a sausage into the shadow realm.
@@dazzypops don't give Graham any ideas to do a Raid Shadow Legend, or whatever that stupid game is, advert spot
HELP PLEASE!! Thankyou again Graham for sharing your knowledge and wisdom - very much appreciated 🙏. I hesitate to ask anything more of you man so I wonder if someone in the community may be able to help me a little further however. I located two blown caps on my Alienware 17 and identified them as 10uF in 0805 package. The schematic shows the following part number 10U_0805_25V6K so I assume they're 25Volt but I don't have any idea if the 6K at the end is important at all and further when I go to order them through Digikey there are Ceramic, Tantalum, Tantalum Polymer, and Niobium Oxide options available and I'm not sure which option to go with. If anyone could advise me please I'd much appreciate that as well. NB the blown ones are so utterly fried they look like they've been hit with an arc welder so I can't discern anything from them at all they are just a blob. Thankyou in advance 🙏🤞
I need your help. I am working on a Lenovo thinkpad E580 and I came accross a shorted ( looks like an IC) the only writtings on it is (RFAHA). any idea what that is? and how can I get a new one so I continue with the repair. thanks
can you please help me to know what component is the inductor PL5 It is near the area where you connected the cables
Hi Graham,
I replaced the charging port but has no ohm reading. Where do I go from that?
thank you , nice video 😊
i like your way of dealing with short
What microscope are you using? The caps at 20:00 look so good.
Andonstar AD407. Monocular scope, so harder to use, but it does give a great picture for the video.
Hi Graham. Nice work. I have the same isue with a laptop, but I don't have replacement capacitors. My question is will the laptop work without those capacitors ? Thank you for an answer.
Probably. It depends on which capacitor has died. You won't damage the laptop by attempting to run it with caps missing, so feel free to try. Worst that can happen is that it's unstable and crashes, if the cap was bypassing something important.
@@Adamant_IT Exactly the same 4 of 22uF/25 V in video, near PQ704 and PQ706. Thak you very much.
It's always the same...in that it's never quite the same. Nice fix.
Hi Adam, I have same issue with my dell latitude 3380. Please can you tell me where the power capacitor is located so I can change it 😢
I have a laptop exactly like this one, simply love the model! Of course it has maxed out RAM and SSD's, but CPU is not that great. Running W11 22H2 btw!
Another laptop made by Compal. They seem to make laptops for everyone! Great video as usual, thank you.
hi there! where can i look up on diagram on laptops? also parts where can i order? please help mi, inspiring technician 🙂
Where do you get extra caps?
How do you remember where all the screws go when you're reassembling?
Thank you prince
I have the same thermal cam and it's very accurate..try trop down the temperature scale on the cam
Great job. What thermal camera are you using?
It's a Flir One, but I wouldn't recommend it for this kind of work, it's not designed for close-ups like this, and can't lock the calibration point.
HELLO ADAMENT! Am an avid Subscriber, you are my first 'Go to' when diagnosing PC issues! I recently built a new Computer in my old Tower with an MSI Z390-A PRO Motherboard with an Intel Pentium Gold Processor G5400 CPU @ 3.7GHz! Next added 64.0 GB DDR4 3200 Ram! Also a ZOTAC GAMING GeForce GTX 1 Video Card! Recently upgraded all my HHD's with an Intel 660p Series M.2 1 TB SSD Drive C and two WD I TB internal SSD's! My Computer now boots up completely for a cold start in 30 seconds!!!! (Once in a while when I turn it on, it Boots into the Bios Screen)!!!(But when I wont to boot into Bios, no matter what key combination I press it wont go into Bios on Command)! Windows will not display on my Digital Monitor but I can see the Bios Screen on another HDMI Output to my 32 inch TV! Am running XMP Mode and Gaming Mode on the MSI along with allocating 3/4 of my Ram to Process my Adobe Premiere 2022! My Question is: How do I get the computer to Boot into Windows EVERY TIME? And secondly, How do I get my computer to boot into Bios on command?
Try disabling XMP first to see if the problem disappears. 4-module memory kits can be tricky. If disabling XMP fixes it, you'll know it's memory related, and can move forward from there. Try a BIOS update as well.
My old Lat C640 has this same issue....i dont have all the equipment as you do...should I just try to get a new DC jack and install it? it would be faster and cheaper in my opinion
what thermal camera model do you use?
Can you please do a video on secondary power to 19 v 27:52 I got confused. Thank you
Watched this video about repairing a Dell Latitude E6440 from my Dell Latitude E6440 (Mine has a dedicated Radeon 8690M GPU though).
So, can this laptop be powered from 13.8V in the car? I mean directly without any DC2DC converters.
love your videos 🤩, what books do you recommned for getting started i dont know anything about electronics
I have many many many books on electronics since I started before the internet existed and my recommend would be 'A practical introduction to electronic circuits' by Martin Hartley Jones. It is an old book now but the fundamentals that it talks about - voltage, current, resistance, input and output impedance etc have not changed with time except components are smaller and logic runs faster and and lower voltage. It is also not too large so you stand a chance of reading it all. Available very cheaply - £2.35 on ebay right now.
But, at the same time you must, must practice and not just read. My advice would be get some solderless breadboard and old school components with leads while you are learning the basics. That along with a decent variable power supply and a nice meter and there is so much you can do. Good luck.
@@Hereford1642 thank you my good sir
How can I get in touch to ask you some questions about a 2020 MacBook Pro?
Obviously this is a great teaching tool, that being said for running a repair business would it just make more sense to replace the board? Here in the US you can find used board for as low as $25. Just thinking from a time and cost effectiveness stand point its just not worth while spending that amount of time on it.
Mainly practise for the more expensive jobs. $25 is super cheap though, yea... They're about $50 in the UK, so still cheap, but not quite $25-no-brainer.
The usual answer to this is that, let's say a replacement board is more like $80, which is typical for a lot of laptops, replacement would be 80+50 labour, so 130 total with 50 profit.
If I can fix the board, I can charge at least $100 board-repair fee, and that would be 100 total with 100 profit. Cheaper for the customer, and double the money in my pocket.
So it's a trade off, fixing boards will yield a much higher profit if you know what's wrong with it. But yea, on old stuff as soon as it's not an easy one I'd usually duck out and find a used board.
Might be a silly question 32:43 in video what is ram training? - excellent stuff by the way 🙂
RAM training is a process where BIOS detects what memory is present and what speed/timings it needs to run at. This usually involves one or two power cycles to test those settings - which is why many laptops and desktop mobos turn off and on a few times after a BIOS reset. If you don't know what's happening, it looks like it's broken and just stuck in a loop, but RAM Training can sometimes take 30-60 seconds if the board is having a rough time.
There are other things the BIOS might be doing that look like this, but a lot of people just say "RAM training" as a place holder for "getting its shit together"
Nice job, Bro
were can i purchase the same TEST leads your using ADAM
BST-050 JP superfine. The grips are kinda meh, feel very plasticky, but they're sharp enough to stab a dew drop.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001557245171.html
great video really enjoyed the testing process although was kinda hoping for a scrambled bios still waiting for you to use the 3d printed programmer case lol.
27:15 Very satisfying.
I had the same problem with my Dell laptop was still under warranty they came to my house installed a new motherboard at no cost to me.
what is the chipset? how does it work?
The CMOS battery will not prevent a laptop of computer from POSTing. It will mean not settings will be retained if the battery is dead and ask each time on boot, to enter BIOS. The CMOS battery only has two wires for ground and power, no signal. The battery only kicks in when there is no mains power going to the motherboard to retain all BIOS settings. While power is running through to the Motherboard, the battery will not be used. Default settings will be used on the BIOS with flat batteries and thus ask you to enter BIOS to change the settings. Ok, it was still worth changing the battery, however, it wouldn't have stopped the laptop from booting up. Swapping the RAM may have and I have encountered that issue. It is noted that also the larger RAM stick should always go in DIMM slot 1/A1 if you were to use Single Channel and they are two different sizes as THAT can prevent POST and booting.
You checked if your CPU VCC is shorted to ground - but that is not the actual problem during injection. Your real problem is the high side mosfet being shorted drain to source because that will allow the injected voltage to flood the CPU VCC and fry your CPU.
What battery screwdriver are you using?
I use the Sequre SQ-ES126 - you can get it direct from Sequre here. It's not cheap, but this thing has been an absolute workhorse.
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sequremall.com/?ref=fl20o11jut
the kaiweets KM601 is good especially with the display for camera and not expensive
Did you try to take a look at brymen multimeters? You could take a look at bm869s. I understood that they are almost as good as fluke but cheaper. I have bm867s but I'm a total noob on electronics, so I can't tell you if it's good or not. But it was recommended to me by an experienced guy. I hope it helps.
Good job 😁
i have learned that if a laptop turns on without display when you plug in power, its low bios battery. Mostly on HP
Hey we have the same pad lol
hi sir. i have been watching your videos. i prefer your style. logical this easy for us to understand the flow of troubleshooting. my question, is this method applicable to mobile phone troubleshooting? thank you. much love from Malaysia
Excellent 👍
What is the "Name & Type" of that capacitor?
25v, the 33 on it likely means 33uF (microfarad). I would check a schematic to be sure, but large bulk-bypass caps like these are usually fairly generic.
are they 0805 capacitors you used.
Yea, 0805. I think 22uf is one of the biggest values without going up to big footprint tantalums, which is why it's super common.
@@Adamant_IT thanks
As Alex says from Northridge Fix UA-cam channel "better than factory". Flux is your friend, you should use more. Nice job!