How to Make Custom Patch Panels Right on the Vehicle
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- Опубліковано 24 бер 2022
- How to make custom patch panels right on the car or truck for a perfect fit every time. Easy! See below for tools, materials & Lakeside Autobody merch apparel.
***Red Tin Snips: www.acehardware.com/departmen...
***Sheet Metal: ALRO Steel - A1008 CR Steel Sheet - 20 gauge
***Multi-Purpose Welder: Referral Link (10%): yeswelder.com/?ref=u551bhmle9
Coupon Code Link (10%): yeswelder.com/discount/Lakesi...
Coupon Code - All Products (10%): Lakeside Autobody
***Green Tin Snips: www.acehardware.com/departmen...
***Body Hammer: Martin Tools MRT153G Cross Chisel Hammer with Hickory Handle
***Wedge Dolly: Martin Tools 1067 - Wedge Dolly Block
***Die Grinder: Mac Tools AG14 or Harbor Freight version - www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...
***Lakeside Merchandise: brothersdesignsmi.com/shop/ol...
/ @lakesideautobody - Авто та транспорт
I like these new "quick" videos where you basically focus on one small aspect.
Thanks JM - glad to hear it. Have a good weekend :)
I did quarters on my old ramcharger exactly like this about 15 years ago. It was my first truck and first try at body work. I couldn't weld then, so I used pop rivets and reinforced fiberglass, but it's all still there. Imperfections and all. Great video.
Thanks for you input Kevin - have a good weekend :)
Watching this video takes me back to when my dad was doing rust repairs. He was old school, thank you jerry take care.
You're welcome Mike - have a good weekend :)
I like how no-nonsense and efficient you are with the process. I would take hours/days fillding with templates overthinking and trying to reconstruct it (like in my recent car restoration video). I learned a lot from you btw, even though I still hesitate doing lapwelds. thanks!
You're welcome - appreciate the honesty :)
Love watching a pro do a patch like this with a lap weld using simple tools. Love it
Thanks PSG - always love hearing from you - have a good weekend my friend :)
Looks good, Jerry! That’s how to get results quick!👍
You make it look so easy. Your year's of body work surely shows.
Thanks Douglas :)
Great work, as always!
Another nice job, thanks Jerry.
Nicely done Jerry. Your videos are very well produced. Thanks for taking the time to make them.
Thanks Bluesman. How's your project coming along? Must be some nice weather out there :)
@@LakesideAutobody I'm making a sheet metal brake similar to Fitzees Fabrications so that I can bend up some floor pans. The weather has been nice. I need to get out on the river.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you
You're welcome Ken :)
Nice Job as always by the way learning thanks for teaching us personally I really appreciate it
You're welcome Carlos :)
I wish I had your confidence! I bought the 120V Flux core welder last year, which is still in the box, lol. Thanks for the videos you post, they help a lot!
Confidence is gained by doing...take it out of the box...watch some youtube videos on welding and jump in...start by welding random pieces of metal together.
Nice work as always. Have a great weekend
So awesome. Love learning from ur knowledge and vids!
Thanks for always watching Snake Doc - hope everything is good with you. Have a good weekend :)
Looks good! Thanks for the lesson.
You're welcome :)
Great video!
Nice job! Ill have to try it, thanks.
Thanks Dave :)
nice quick and easy Jerry, awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it Mick. You have a cool name :)
Short and great information. Good stuff
Glad you liked it - have a good weekend :)
Thank you .Lots to learn.good job.Thank's for sharing,
You're welcome - thanks for checking it out :)
great video, thanks
Thanks for Sharing.... Keep Up the Great Work
You're welcome David - thanks for watching :)
Beautiful work Jerry 👍
Thanks 👍 - nice hearing from you Vicshone :)
That’s brutal man
Great job 👍
Thanks 👍
Great work thanks
You're welcome :)
Another really good video
Thanks Tim 🎄 - have a good week 😊
great job
This was a timely video for me to see. I will be helping my brother fix a rusted fender panel on his car in a few weeks. Being able to fab and weld on a patch is highly preferable to removing the whole fender. Will use the method you demonstrated. Your video convinced me it is practical and possible without too much difficulty. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words Frank - here's a follow up video on the longevity of these methods (still good today too). ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html
You read my mind. I was actually wondering about how well the different methods would hold up. @@LakesideAutobody
I'll be doing another follow up video on this truck as it's still looking good. A guy in town bought it and said I could borrow it for the vid. Thanks for watching Frank.@@frankkennedy5361
Great videos. Subscribed
I appreciate the support AW - have a good week :)
Very clever!
Thank you - thanks for watching my friend :)
good tips
Thanks Ronald - have a good weekend :)
I agree with Sidney below. I tend to overthink the crap out of stuff like this.
🙋🏼♂️muito bom irmão parabéns amigo pelo seu trabalho 👍🏻 🇧🇷
You're good! Thank you.
Thanks EB - have a good weekend :)
on seam why would you not cut and butt weld, would it not be better and smoother? new to paint and body. it seems if you seam weld and knock it down, it want be as smooth, flat??
Thank you so much for your videos as I'm starting on my truck thanks to you but one thing I have noticed is if you use tools every day I belive in spending money on tools that's why I always cut metal with Midwest snips and fold metal with Irwin locking bar folders. Sorry haha I work with metal roof panels so metal working is my specialty.
Nothing is better than US made tools - I agree 100%. I wish they made more stuff in USA like taps, dies, drill bits, hand tools, air tools, etc. I have some USA made adjustable wrenches and other stuff that I love to use - makes the job fun actually :)
Funny this came up; i have a slightly damaged lower fender on my 63 Riviera and this would be faster than pulling it!
You're right - and cheaper :)
Excellent video Thanks. What thickness sheet metal are you using on this patch?
That's 20 gauge A1008 CR Sheet from Alro Steel here in Grayling, MI - you can buy it in 4x8 sheets or have it cut at most sheet metal supply places. You can also cut up old panels that a bone yard wants to get rid of cheap. Also, you can stop by a body shop and ask them for their damaged or scrap panels :)
You make all this look so easy. I am working on a 71 Mustang and it is not as easy as it looks. Having a terrible time with body filler and parts of the body that have angles and different shapes that are not flat. I guess the trick is to get more experience, but man this is not easy.
Thanks my friend - here's a video that may help with the difficult contours - ua-cam.com/video/JLOphXXcaCg/v-deo.html There are others too on the channel that deal with body lines in the playlist called "dent repair"
Great job like always Jerry patch panel looks great please can you share with me the name of the shears you use to cut the metal looks like it cuts pretty easy
Yes - those are Wiss aviation snips. You can get them at Home Depot or a hardware. I use the green and red the most. See this video for more on cutting - ua-cam.com/video/uaAB3tJiOq4/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks brother
Great video, what gauge metal do you use for your patch? Thank You!
22 or 20
I like the content. Need all the help I can get. Would like to see how you finished with filler. Great videos, thanks.
There are plenty of videos on using filler on youtube.
That will be coming Friday 4/1/2022
Hi Jerry great video. When you are welding on the vehicle like you are doing here , do you disconnect both cables on the battery?? What about the ecu , etc?
I just disconnect the negative - shops I've worked at - this was a common practice - not both though. If you feel safer (ecu, etc.) do both. Never had an issue with thousands of vehicles done like this.
@@LakesideAutobody Thx Jerry have a great week
I want to do the patch at the same place near wheel, but I do not have the gas. I have multi-process welder. I am thinking of using flux core. Not sure it will hold the patch.
Flux core is a stronger and hotter weld. It's more than capable, just have to make sure to take your time and remove all the flux residue so it doesn't create future rust
Johnathan makes a good point. See this video - ua-cam.com/video/H87b1xlGofw/v-deo.html
Is there anyway you could do a video on aluminum dent repair.
I'll work on that for you for sure - give me a bit of time to find an aluminum panel. Good suggestion my friend :)
This might sound stupid, but what gauge sheet metal do you use?
How do you like the yes mig welder?
It's not bad at all for the $. The instructions need a little work and you do have to mess with the settings to get it how you like it but overall it works as it was intended to work. It looks like it will hold up real well too :)
What kind of mig welder are you using? Flux core or regular mig with gas?
That is a YesWelder MIG-205DS fairly inexpensive multi process welder. It's listed under the description of the video along with a savings code :)
Nicely done Bud!!☻
I tell you what took me like a week to make a wheel arch for my moms Honda Accord. Then like 3 days of body filler sanding. But turned out good. Kept having an issue the body filler drying in like a minute. Screwing with me
Use less hardener - mix quicker - apply quicker. Nice job though getting it to look good - wheel arches are no joke :)
Yea but she was quoted 1600 to do it. Think I’m in it for 75 bucks. Got the metal for free from work. Your videos are helpful. But deceiving because I’m like look how easy that looks then when I start it I’m like shit this sucks
@@LakesideAutobody your videos are helpful. But deceiving because you make it look so easy then when I went out there I was like shit this sucks. I’m in it for 75 bucks free metal she was quoted 1600 to do them. Free metal but I think it was to thick it was 16 gauge. Dupli color silver hides slight imperfections. You have experience with upol body filler?? That’s what I’m using not sure if it’s a bad brand
Hmm, you' re end result is always very nice, You are a genius when it comes to sanding and painting. But..'...this time I don' t like the lap welding, it will rust fast why not but welding? I get the feeling that this customer wants it quick and cheap. Also the inner side gives me a cold shiver!
Butt welding doesn't hold up as well as lap. Factories lap welded the quarter/roof seam in a valley and filled with lead - it held for the life of the car - this is why body shops lap as often as they can. Some times, you are forced to butt weld but keep it to a minimum - like edges, ridged panels (rockers, posts, etc.) - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html See this vid for more - ua-cam.com/video/idrLzsz2eLg/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobodyThanks for the links, I didn't see the first one before! But probably the discussion will never end about what is the best. My experience is that the rust is always there where the manufacture did lap welding, especially when there are 3 or sometimes 4 panels laying over each other.. And...a manufacture takes imo. always the cheapest method because for them if it hold up to ten years it's oke. But there are people who wants to drive a +20 years old car😅
Did you close the weld or just tack it?
Pretty much closed it up. It's probably not water proof though. I've had good luck both ways (solid weld or spaces) so you don't have too much to worry about. The seam is tapped down and I believe the filler sort of seals the seam. Use fiberglass reinforced filler if you want waterproof filler and to worry even less :)
What about the 1/4 to 1/2 overlap?
Knock it down below the original surface, grind clean and fill. Try to allow for about 1/8" of filler - it's a good buffer or barrier between the seam and the finish :)
What guage sheet metal do you use?
20 or 22 - .035" or .030"
It would have been better if you had made all the panel fit before you electric glued it and used at least a pipe to form your curve instead of a vice which would give straight line dints. But the ideas there🤙
Any ideas that make the job easier would help 😊
Still haven’t moved that noisy compressor to the other room 😂
There is no other room - so sorry about that. Can't really do anything about it. I'll try to think of something though :)
The patch panel looks great Jerry!...The Best Bodyman on UA-cam!
I appreciate that my friend - sorry about the late reply. Sometimes comments don't show up in the notice area. I know you probably know that. You have to go hunting for them :)
@@LakesideAutobody I definitely know what you’re going through
Why don't you use body saw to cut the panel? I think it will be faster
Thanks for the suggestion Steven :)
Is that 22g?
Yes :)
would a new panel just be easier?
Yes it would be easier but not cheaper. If you are doing your own work, it's usually cheaper to do a patch or patch panel :)
Way to go! Too much emphasis is always put on butt welding patch panels and no Bondo. I shoot on thinned roofing tar, with a shutz gun, to seal up the backside..Back in the day (fifties) the bodymen I knew always said no REAL bodyman uses Bondo ........only lead.
I'm 25, I've used lead before. Nothing wrong with it, used appropriately.
Likewise with bondo.
That's a great great idea. I have given that a thought before but never have done it. I know it would work too - just couldn't figure how to spray it or apply it. I'm liking that idea of thinning it :)
@@jimbob3708 Both are good, but Bondo usually wins because of $$$, today.
Old shop teacher taught me leadding. It's a dying art. See UK Bmw, VW guys comment down below for the rust killer mix I shared that costs $6 or so when using saved old oils from changes. Worked since the 50s and 3 generations.
Check out my BMW E30 videos and see how many patches and panels i made for that lol, also my VWT25, things rust bad in the UK lol
On the Lakeside discord?
@@LakesideAutobody come again?
I'm going to help u out my friend across the pond. And check out urr vids. I live in PA USA. I've been fighting rust for 30 plus years. My Pap worked for Ford in Ohio by Lake Erie. Theyed get some bad snow. His Co worker drove a post war Ford sedan. Pap asked how do u keep her looking good and not rusting out with all the snow and salt? He said this, Mix 1 quart of any oil new or used, 1 quart transmission fluid new or used, 1 grease gun cartridge, or tub of grease and 1 or 2 toilet flange wax gaskets. Mix and heat all in a old pot, then brush, spray etc. You can add anything u want like I add boiled linseed oil to make it a harder finish. My pap, father and now I use this since the 50s. It's proven, will outlast, it's better than anything u can buy and costs $6 US dollars if u use saved trans fluid and oil from services. I have access to hydraulic oil. Father has a logging business. We've used this on anything that has a engine and steel frame, or body. I mean tractors, semis, trailers, autos, quads, lawn mowers etc. I promise u no more rust ever. Have a gr8 week.
If you stop cutting before the tin snips close completely,you'll get a lot cleaner cut .js
Good suggestion Paul - thanks for your input :)
@@LakesideAutobody yw
Like why don't you even take the wheel off and what about bending the panel in a vice with all the fold creases?
You could do both if you want or think it will save you time 👍🔥😊
the proper way to do the repair is to work from the inside to the outside not outside to inside
Post a vid and show us how it's done, gary, and while you're at it, show us how to correctly use a capital letter when posting your name, gary? Lol.
With respect Gary, it is not correct to work from the inside because your lap seam would then hold water or moisture. My seam is facing down on the inside like a shingle. This is how the rust belt has done rust repair for years. It holds up to daily driving, wet weather, salt, stress, etc. Hope that helps :)
That's like saying the proper way to knock up the wife is missionary style only. No other style will work. Yes yes it will. U don't want water to hold. That's why the dam thing rusts out 1st place. And the rubber and especially the foam they use. In rust belt we see this daily. If u was a lil kinder I'd share a rust treatment that u make from used oils and costs less than $6.
This is not how to do it this . Not impressed
ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html
That's like telling a pilot who flew many sorties in a war that he's not flying right. This way is for a work vehicle. Not a concourse retoration. Yes there's a nicer longer way to do this but when it's a $500-1500 auto, can't spend half or a 4th of that fixing it. On a 70 chevelle SS 454Ls6 yes u do it a lil different.