Your English is better than my Swedish! You buy carbon fibre as a cloth, and there are different weaves & weights (same as with fibreglass cloth). I am unaware of any quality issues. What I use gioves you a guide. Start with fibreglass first for a year or two before you try c/f as it's too expensive to waste or crash, plus fibreglass may really be all you need.
Trying to figure out how to make the mold is one of the most difficult things for someone new to fiberglass like myself. This was extremely helpful, thank you very much for making this video.
thank goodness this was a right-hand drive ... Good job on the video mate! I might have to subscribe! very informative, excellent production, and really interesting taxidermy work-in! never thought my love of composites and fast cars would converge at taxidermy, but hey, there it is! Cheers!
It depends what you want to do with the mould and what material you want to reproduce your replica in. Basically you paint the concrete with MULTIPLE layers of Latex rubber and then make a fibreglass "mother" mould over that to cradle it when you reproduce in it. We have a client at work who buys Latex from us to reproduce concrete statues, etc. and I've used this method in taxidermy for casting rocks. You can make a direct f/g mould if you put floor wax on the path. Latex is the better way.
I know you don't like to repeat yourself but if you could add the links for the other steps in the description it would be easier for people to refer to the videos that explain that process. Love your videos! thank you for creating them.
your videos are really good, I've been looking forward to building a Go-kart by myself and you've provided really valuable info! thanks a lot, subscribed!
I liked that you went over a spoiler because thats exactly what I'm trying to do. This is a very informative video. What would be a good releasing agent besides PVA? I have many different types of projects and if I can keep construction cost down then that would be great. I've heard just floor wax then polish or hair spray.
I built fiberglass dash's for lambo kit cars. The dash required a 7 piece mold to build the. Shat load of nuts and boats, but it produced a high quality part.
Amazing tutorials on molding, especially the flanges and different ways of applying the kno😢wledge. Thank you very much. Just t subscribe let's go.....
I'd use an old guitar of the shape I want and turn it into a die for moulding purposes by coating it with Wattyl 7008 or Glamowood Glaze Coat, wax * PVA release. Mould the bottom first by putting a clay wall around it or by putting it inside a piece of ply cut out to the profile of the guitar to make a flange to your bottom mould piece, putting your join at the back of the guitar. Mould & copy it in 2 pieces, & join together with resin after fitting the neck, etc.
First, thanks a million for the video - most interesting and useful. I intend to try out a carbon fiber guitar and it seems I would need to apply the un-flanged method. However, I have a guitar in mind, but don't have it to form a mould from. Do you have any advice on making prototypes for moulding purposes? Much appreciated and thanks again.
Hey when you were making a mold of that intake manifold..what were you going to use to make the actual new manifold? Carbon fiber? Would it have any issues with fuel, heat or even boost pressures? Would you mind to go into more detail maybe in another video about that manifold? Thanks so much in advance. I'm really interested in this topic!
I had to make a boat cover piece that went on the motor and couldn't find one so I made the part up with clay and then tin and tape and then Fiberglas to get the mold and then made the piece . Saved me 400 for the actual part and would have taken a week to get in .
Unfortunately not. As I said at the front of this video it is not about finished projects, but the techniques themselves. I've also just sold my house and will spend the next year literally constructing a new one by myself - so all fibreglassing is gonna have to wait until I'.ve got a new roof over my head.
I've just started rally using a 2015 buick encore 1.4l turbo Luv fwd. Needed a new front skid plate and lower bumper cover from jumping and successful clearing a ditch which could have easily totaled the car I had two choices turn slide and risk hitting it sideways and rolling. Or head on and hold on. I chose head on got lucky scary shit but it hasn't stopped me yet
I prefer fiberglass for complicated shapes like that manifold, and it has no problems with fuel. Most new cars have plastic intake manifolds these days.
Thank You for sharing this knowledge with us ,I learned much .I am trying to plan for a two piece (a box basically ) mold of the main triangle of a bicycle chassis ,the difficulty is in the fact that I want it to have the tubes half way into it at least on top tube + front down tube (that is the only way I figure I can prevent my box being stolen ) .What would you do in a project like that ? I hope you still answer on your channel ,Cheers !!
i kinda wanted to see how you made the manifold but it seems like it would be more like a manifold cover/shield. i need to make a curved tube but i do not want two shells coming together as the seam would be a weak point. right now the one way would a "lost wax" method and laying glass on the outside which will take a lot of work to make to outside nice
Use Peel Ply on your outside joining layer to get a much smoother fibreglass finish, and be sure to put Finishcoat on top of the glass, rather than Gelcoat which won't work well as a top coat. Most modern intake manifolds will require more than two pieces. If just reproducing a factory manifold copy it's mould joining lines to ensure the pieces will release after moulding. Yes it is very complex job.
Great vids. I'm sure you have answered these questions at one point or another in some vids. But what ate the names of the following. Foam filling, clay used and what the actual name it's called and where to get it. And when to use Gelcoat. Thanks a million
The industrial name for the foam is "Pouring Foam" and is normally available from trade fiberglass material suppliers or large insulation product suppliers. The clay I use is unfired pottery clay and I just buy the cheapest I can find. You can get it at large craft shops, but it's cheapest from pottery supply wholesalers. Gelcoat is used as a first layer to get a smooth, finished surface when fiberglassing a mold or plug. It needs the overlaid poly resin to fully harden it. If wrongly used as the last, top coat it will stay sticky. The product to use then is called "Top Coat" or "Finish Coat", as used by boat repairers when applying a patch where the LAST layer is the finished surface, rather than with a mold where the FIRST layer is the finished surface.
Hi I just made my first mould I made a mould of the inside of the boot on one of my honda preludes. Was just wondering should I cut allbthe holes out of the mould or out of the panel when it comes out of the mould. Thanks from a fan
Awesome video and rocking music - i have a question regarding the separation of the piece molds- for example, with your cat, you place the fiberglass on one side up to the tin, wait for cure, remove the tin, then do the other side, what do you add to the set fiberglass so that it doesn't bind to the new fiberglass on the other side. - would simple paste wax keep them from sticking to each other?
When molding using the method shown with the cat head the tin is not removed until BOTH halves are fiberglassed. It stays in place for the whole process. On some jobs you do end up laying the second flange directly up to the first one made in fiberglass with no tin in between, like where clay was used to mold the first side's flange. In both cases wax, then PVA release, is applied to the first flange to ensure separation when the second one is applied.
+mark rainford To be moulded rocks need a generous coat of release wax which is NOT polished, then a coat of PVA release. Then Gelcoat, resin + cloth as normal. You can use multiple coats of latex as an interim release layer when moulding and making copies, but I found this sort of rubber based inter-mould unnecessary as few of us will make stacks of rocks of the same mould. As the mould wears and little features break off a little it just produces a slight difference, & painting hides all faults because rocks are so rough by nature anyway. Most rocks will need clay dividing walls to divide them into 2 - 3 piece moulds. When the copies are made in the rock split moulds this standard layup process is repeated and normal Gelcoat is used again. Painting the cast rocks with acrylic paint is great fun. Start with splashes of orchre and even yellow, and a few black spots. Clean excess off with a rag. Then coat the whole rock with a thinned light grey, wiping most of it off. To add lichen flick light green paint off an old toothbrush. If doing a group of rocks that will go together always paint them all at the same time, because you never get the same result twice. Two identical rocks out of the same mould will look completely different when painted.
Very well put. I did not realize its 10 yrs old. I used to build Prova countachs in the 80s and 90s. Now they tell me I'm to old and just sn old boomer.
Hello. Greetings from America. I read in the comments, that you have a book . I clicked on the link but the link isn't processing so I can see the information. Could you please tell me the title and your name to find it ? I'd really like to have a copy . I do watch your videos and have learned alot from you but I'd also like to read your book and see the illustrations. I am in the process of making a one-off ground-effects body kit for one of my Mercedes but I've decided now that I want to make duplicates. I'm still in the stage of forming the mock-up to form the fiberglass on. I am a beginner in this and this is my first attempt . I am slow because I want to think things through and not make any mistakes. I know I can do it by following your instructions. Thank you.
I haven't written a book on fiberglassing. The only one I refer to is one which covers the basics www.ebay.com.au/itm/Glass-fibre-Handbook-Paperback-NEW-Warring-R-H-1998-01-10/352701275287?epid=96605757&hash=item521ea25c97:g:Z9kAAOSwn3RdEqUn
Hi, HELP! how u make an opossite piece? let's say you have a good left piece (i.e. a mirror ), of a car/motorcyle and the right is lost, how you make/create the oposite one ?
je jee I've often wondered that too.. Like if you were making a body kit and you shaped the left fender from foam perfectly how do you make an exact mirror image for the right side.. Or do you just do it by eye and hope for the best? I'm definitely not artistic enough to do it by eye.
WJP004 i'm wondering about motorcycle plastics, the ones i've got are crap and new ones are expensive and i think they're injection molded so i can only begin to imagine the astronomical price of carbon fibre ones
Bill i love your videos !! keep them coming !! check out smooth on-- they have lots of info and materials and videos and help as well. they supply everything from special effects to building restoration.
You are a fine teacher. I salute you, and am grateful for you having passed on your knowledge and experience. Thank you.
Your English is better than my Swedish! You buy carbon fibre as a cloth, and there are different weaves & weights (same as with fibreglass cloth). I am unaware of any quality issues. What I use gioves you a guide. Start with fibreglass first for a year or two before you try c/f as it's too expensive to waste or crash, plus fibreglass may really be all you need.
I can greatly say I appreciate you putting these videos on here your methods how to do it accurately is well appreciated thank you
Thank you for posting this. Plaster over sand is exactly what I needed for my project
Thank you for sharing your skills and talents.
I am honoured and blessed to learn from you.
This video has taught me so much !
Your videos are the best for DIY at home. Thank you for taking the time to do them, much appreciated.
Trying to figure out how to make the mold is one of the most difficult things for someone new to fiberglass like myself. This was extremely helpful, thank you very much for making this video.
HAHAHA i love at 0:10 the camera guy has the closest near death experience ever and than just shakes it off like "eh"
really appreciate the time you took to make this video and share your experience!
Thanks for talking about how to glue two halves together!
Nice tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
thank goodness this was a right-hand drive ... Good job on the video mate! I might have to subscribe! very informative, excellent production, and really interesting taxidermy work-in! never thought my love of composites and fast cars would converge at taxidermy, but hey, there it is! Cheers!
It depends what you want to do with the mould and what material you want to reproduce your replica in. Basically you paint the concrete with MULTIPLE layers of Latex rubber and then make a fibreglass "mother" mould over that to cradle it when you reproduce in it. We have a client at work who buys Latex from us to reproduce concrete statues, etc. and I've used this method in taxidermy for casting rocks. You can make a direct f/g mould if you put floor wax on the path. Latex is the better way.
Thanks for this video. I think it’ll help me understand where my flanges should go and how to adhere them.
I know you don't like to repeat yourself but if you could add the links for the other steps in the description it would be easier for people to refer to the videos that explain that process. Love your videos! thank you for creating them.
Thank you sir, I've enjoyed your tutorial video.
your videos are really good, I've been looking forward to building a Go-kart by myself and you've provided really valuable info! thanks a lot, subscribed!
I liked that you went over a spoiler because thats exactly what I'm trying to do. This is a very informative video. What would be a good releasing agent besides PVA? I have many different types of projects and if I can keep construction cost down then that would be great. I've heard just floor wax then polish or hair spray.
thanks for your knowledge,you are a master crafts man .
I learn something new. Thank you.
thanks for taking the time , cheers mate.............
I built fiberglass dash's for lambo kit cars. The dash required a 7 piece mold to build the. Shat load of nuts and boats, but it produced a high quality part.
You obviously are very highly skilled. Respect!
Amazing tutorials on molding, especially the flanges and different ways of applying the kno😢wledge. Thank you very much. Just t subscribe let's go.....
Fantastic job you , thank you
Can you show anymore with making that intake manifold? Looks awesome
the split mold on the intake manifold would you fill it with fiber glass
I'd use an old guitar of the shape I want and turn it into a die for moulding purposes by coating it with Wattyl 7008 or Glamowood Glaze Coat, wax * PVA release. Mould the bottom first by putting a clay wall around it or by putting it inside a piece of ply cut out to the profile of the guitar to make a flange to your bottom mould piece, putting your join at the back of the guitar. Mould & copy it in 2 pieces, & join together with resin after fitting the neck, etc.
First, thanks a million for the video - most interesting and useful. I intend to try out a carbon fiber guitar and it seems I would need to apply the un-flanged method. However, I have a guitar in mind, but don't have it to form a mould from. Do you have any advice on making prototypes for moulding purposes? Much appreciated and thanks again.
brilliant - -thanks for the advice - much appreciated ;)
fantastic Vid, thank for all you help :)
Well explained. Thanks for sharing'
thank you very much sir i really enjoyed your video and lerned alot looking forword to get started on my project keep up the good work
Hey when you were making a mold of that intake manifold..what were you going to use to make the actual new manifold? Carbon fiber? Would it have any issues with fuel, heat or even boost pressures? Would you mind to go into more detail maybe in another video about that manifold? Thanks so much in advance. I'm really interested in this topic!
i have a 1994 volkswagon jetta how much would it cost to make build a intake manifold for my volkswagon jetta its a 2.0 liter?
I had to make a boat cover piece that went on the motor and couldn't find one so I made the part up with clay and then tin and tape and then Fiberglas to get the mold and then made the piece . Saved me 400 for the actual part and would have taken a week to get in .
rednecktalkshow Well done. Now there'll be no stopping you! Beware of the friends who want boat repairs though!
thanks, brilliant!
Unfortunately not. As I said at the front of this video it is not about finished projects, but the techniques themselves. I've also just sold my house and will spend the next year literally constructing a new one by myself - so all fibreglassing is gonna have to wait until I'.ve got a new roof over my head.
Awesome. I love your instructional videos. Do you or have you considered making and selling dvd's?
thank you for telling all that
A gallon kit ( 1/2 gallon of ISO, 1/2 gallon of POLY) costs A$32 here in Oz... close to $the same in US$.
I've just started rally using a 2015 buick encore 1.4l turbo Luv fwd. Needed a new front skid plate and lower bumper cover from jumping and successful clearing a ditch which could have easily totaled the car I had two choices turn slide and risk hitting it sideways and rolling. Or head on and hold on. I chose head on got lucky scary shit but it hasn't stopped me yet
This might be helpful ua-cam.com/video/MQ2xfYU9tSg/v-deo.html
Hi Bill, I want to make a fibreglass mold of a concrete pathway (long story). Any advice?
I prefer fiberglass for complicated shapes like that manifold, and it has no problems with fuel. Most new cars have plastic intake manifolds these days.
Thank You for sharing this knowledge with us ,I learned much .I am trying to plan for a two piece (a box basically ) mold of the main triangle of a bicycle chassis ,the difficulty is in the fact that I want it to have the tubes half way into it at least on top tube + front down tube (that is the only way I figure I can prevent my box being stolen ) .What would you do in a project like that ? I hope you still answer on your channel ,Cheers !!
I'd have to see pictures to understand your project. PM me facebook.com/redlinefinerglassaustralia/
can you please go step by step on the split mold for the intake manifold
Ronin R 😀😨
In general if I where to remake a fiber glass hood (bonnet as you awesome people like to call it :D) Would it be lighter than the stock hood?
i kinda wanted to see how you made the manifold but it seems like it would be more like a manifold cover/shield. i need to make a curved tube but i do not want two shells coming together as the seam would be a weak point.
right now the one way would a "lost wax" method and laying glass on the outside which will take a lot of work to make to outside nice
Use Peel Ply on your outside joining layer to get a much smoother fibreglass finish, and be sure to put Finishcoat on top of the glass, rather than Gelcoat which won't work well as a top coat. Most modern intake manifolds will require more than two pieces. If just reproducing a factory manifold copy it's mould joining lines to ensure the pieces will release after moulding. Yes it is very complex job.
It would be about 1/3rd the weight
Great vids. I'm sure you have answered these questions at one point or another in some vids. But what ate the names of the following. Foam filling, clay used and what the actual name it's called and where to get it. And when to use Gelcoat. Thanks a million
The industrial name for the foam is "Pouring Foam" and is normally available from trade fiberglass material suppliers or large insulation product suppliers. The clay I use is unfired pottery clay and I just buy the cheapest I can find. You can get it at large craft shops, but it's cheapest from pottery supply wholesalers. Gelcoat is used as a first layer to get a smooth, finished surface when fiberglassing a mold or plug. It needs the overlaid poly resin to fully harden it. If wrongly used as the last, top coat it will stay sticky. The product to use then is called "Top Coat" or "Finish Coat", as used by boat repairers when applying a patch where the LAST layer is the finished surface, rather than with a mold where the FIRST layer is the finished surface.
Hi I just made my first mould I made a mould of the inside of the boot on one of my honda preludes. Was just wondering should I cut allbthe holes out of the mould or out of the panel when it comes out of the mould. Thanks from a fan
You can do either. Cutting the holes in the mold makes more sense if you're gonna produce multiple copies, but for one-offs it doesn't matter.
Ok thanks. And thanks your videos have been a great help
Awesome video and rocking music - i have a question regarding the separation of the piece molds- for example, with your cat, you place the fiberglass on one side up to the tin, wait for cure, remove the tin, then do the other side, what do you add to the set fiberglass so that it doesn't bind to the new fiberglass on the other side. - would simple paste wax keep them from sticking to each other?
When molding using the method shown with the cat head the tin is not removed until BOTH halves are fiberglassed. It stays in place for the whole process. On some jobs you do end up laying the second flange directly up to the first one made in fiberglass with no tin in between, like where clay was used to mold the first side's flange. In both cases wax, then PVA release, is applied to the first flange to ensure separation when the second one is applied.
@@BillsBuildandRace Thank you for the excellent reply.
PROFESSIONAL EXPERT
Thanks very much
I noticed that you cast rocks for your displays. What do you use for gelcoat? Thanks.
+mark rainford To be moulded rocks need a generous coat of release wax which is NOT polished, then a coat of PVA release. Then Gelcoat, resin + cloth as normal. You can use multiple coats of latex as an interim release layer when moulding and making copies, but I found this sort of rubber based inter-mould unnecessary as few of us will make stacks of rocks of the same mould. As the mould wears and little features break off a little it just produces a slight difference, & painting hides all faults because rocks are so rough by nature anyway. Most rocks will need clay dividing walls to divide them into 2 - 3 piece moulds.
When the copies are made in the rock split moulds this standard layup process is repeated and normal Gelcoat is used again. Painting the cast rocks with acrylic paint is great fun. Start with splashes of orchre and even yellow, and a few black spots. Clean excess off with a rag. Then coat the whole rock with a thinned light grey, wiping most of it off. To add lichen flick light green paint off an old toothbrush. If doing a group of rocks that will go together always paint them all at the same time, because you never get the same result twice. Two identical rocks out of the same mould will look completely different when painted.
Thank you for your prompt reply. Very informative.
can we see the finished manifold? :)
Very well put. I did not realize its 10 yrs old. I used to build Prova countachs in the 80s and 90s. Now they tell me I'm to old and just sn old boomer.
What is the book you showed in one of your videos I can't find the video it was in. Thank you 👍
***** www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xthe+glassfibre+hanbook.TRS0&_nkw=the+glassfibre+hanbook&_sacat=267
whats the material you use to make the flanges/split?
Plywood and tin
Hello.
Greetings from America.
I read in the comments, that you have a book . I clicked on the link but the link isn't processing so I can see the information.
Could you please tell me the title and your name to find it ?
I'd really like to have a copy .
I do watch your videos and have learned alot from you but I'd also like to read your book and see the illustrations.
I am in the process of making a one-off ground-effects body kit for one of my Mercedes but I've decided now that I want to make duplicates. I'm still in the stage of forming the mock-up to form the fiberglass on. I am a beginner in this and this is my first attempt . I am slow because I want to think things through and not make any mistakes. I know I can do it by following your instructions.
Thank you.
I haven't written a book on fiberglassing. The only one I refer to is one which covers the basics www.ebay.com.au/itm/Glass-fibre-Handbook-Paperback-NEW-Warring-R-H-1998-01-10/352701275287?epid=96605757&hash=item521ea25c97:g:Z9kAAOSwn3RdEqUn
yur great
Are you gonna make the house out of fiberglass?
Let's just say the wet areas will NEVER leak!
Wait, at 6:16 is that cement or sand?
You've got a sharp eye! I used pre-mixed sand & cement for demonstration purposes as that is all I had. It works - but normally you'd just use sand.
Hi, HELP! how u make an opossite piece? let's say you have a good left piece (i.e. a mirror ), of a car/motorcyle and the right is lost, how you make/create the oposite one ?
I'd have to see pictures to advise you to any worthwhile extent. redlina@bigpond.com
thank you very much! I'll write you tomorrow when I get the pictures
je jee
I've often wondered that too..
Like if you were making a body kit and you shaped the left fender from foam perfectly how do you make an exact mirror image for the right side.. Or do you just do it by eye and hope for the best?
I'm definitely not artistic enough to do it by eye.
Dee Jay Making exact opposite panels requires lots of use of profile boards & measuring... a VERY exacting & slow science.
Thank you Dee, I was taking that path as I believed it was the only way to do it.
cheers!
subscribed, my imagination is running wild.
That's why I upload. Glad you're motivated.
WJP004 i'm wondering about motorcycle plastics, the ones i've got are crap and new ones are expensive and i think they're injection molded so i can only begin to imagine the astronomical price of carbon fibre ones
Good god, I hope that blue car in the beginning was right-side drive! If not, he's hurtin for sure...
Bill i love your videos !! keep them coming !!
check out smooth on--
they have lots of info and materials and videos and help as well.
they supply everything from special effects to building restoration.
More likely than not he was carrying a navigator anyway. OOocch!
Thanks Bill another great video to watch👍
Very good tutorial, could do without the music noise.
Found 1👍🏻
0:27 That tree can lift
9:41 a dog?
KYLE GET BACK HERE NOW
Kyle :I
Kylemonkey... :'(
The crashs in the beginning of your video are really disturbing...