My AC runs a lot colder since you showed me this trick. I rigged up a water jug to drip right on the radiator, just gotta refill it every 4 hours during the day.
We used portable AC units for interior rooms in a university which were hooked up to sinks for cold water sources. They worked great and used about 1/4 gal of water per mins
I want to convert a portable AC into water cooled like this , but i dont have the knowledge about air conditioner and the welding of copper tube, this video is great for me
He just built a marine AC unit…. Exactly how they work. And pretty sure if you use a large ground loop that’s how geothermal works too. The clever thing is to do this at house size and use a pool as the water source…. Then you have a pool heater as well.
Are the fluids travelling through the block in opposite directions? That is supposed to help with heat transfer/efficiency. Also- you can use electronic duster “canned air” as a coolant (R152) vs R134, and you can use less of it (2/3 by weight of 134 iirc)
Nice modification. I think you can cool the water using a high efficient radiator or use the radiator used on the AC so that you can extend the heat away. This way, no window rooms can have AC now. I have a batch freezer used to make ice cream and it is water cooled which water is wasted to drain, was thinking on using a radiator to cool the water and place it outside/different location.
@@ianbuilder What is your math on that? All you have eliminated power-wise was the condenser fan. You are still running the compressor and you still need a blower for the evap coil. Condenser fans usually only make up about 10-20% of the power consumed in an AC unit. Supply fan motors are also about 10-20% and the compressor is about 70-80%. And, you are either going to waste a ton of water on an open loop, or you still need a way to cool the water on a closed loop. So you will need a fan/radiator setup somewhere to reject the heat from the water. All you did was make this unit a little quieter.
Sizing a Water-Cooled Heat Exchanger for 12,000 BTUs Understanding the Basics Before diving into calculations, it's essential to understand the key parameters: * Heat Load: The amount of heat to be removed, which is 12,000 BTUs in your case. * Inlet and Outlet Temperatures: The temperature of the water entering and leaving the heat exchanger. * Water Flow Rate: The volume of water passing through the heat exchanger per unit time. * Heat Transfer Coefficient: A measure of how efficiently heat is transferred between the two fluids. Steps Involved: * Determine Inlet and Outlet Water Temperatures: * This depends on your application. For example, if cooling a machine, you'd want to determine the maximum allowable outlet water temperature. * A typical range might be 70°F to 90°F. * Calculate Required Water Flow Rate: * Use the following formula: * Q = m_dot * Cp * ΔT * Where: * Q = heat transfer rate (BTU/hr) * m_dot = mass flow rate of water (lbm/hr) * Cp = specific heat of water (BTU/lbm°F) * ΔT = temperature difference between inlet and outlet water (°F) * Rearrange the formula to solve for m_dot. * Estimate Heat Transfer Coefficient: * This depends on the heat exchanger type (shell-and-tube, plate, etc.), materials, and flow conditions. * Typical values can range from 100 to 1000 BTU/hr-ft²-°F. * Calculate Required Heat Transfer Area: * Use the following formula: * Q = U * A * LMTD * Where: * Q = heat transfer rate (BTU/hr) * U = overall heat transfer coefficient (BTU/hr-ft²-°F) * A = heat transfer area (ft²) * LMTD = log mean temperature difference (°F) * Calculate LMTD based on inlet and outlet temperatures of both fluids. * Rearrange the formula to solve for A. * Select a Heat Exchanger: * Use the calculated heat transfer area to select a heat exchanger from manufacturer catalogs or consult with a heat exchanger specialist. * Consider factors like pressure drop, materials compatibility, and cost. Additional Considerations: * Fouling: Over time, deposits can form on the heat exchanger surfaces, reducing efficiency. Consider fouling factors when calculating the heat transfer coefficient. * Pressure Drop: Ensure the selected heat exchanger has an acceptable pressure drop for your system. * Material Compatibility: Choose materials compatible with the fluids involved. * Cost: Balance performance requirements with budget constraints. Example: Assuming: * Inlet water temperature = 70°F * Outlet water temperature = 90°F * Desired water flow rate = 10 gallons per minute (gpm) * Estimated heat transfer coefficient = 300 BTU/hr-ft²-°F You can calculate the required heat transfer area and select a suitable heat exchanger. Note: This is a simplified overview. Accurate heat exchanger sizing often requires detailed calculations and consideration of various factors. Consulting with a heat exchanger expert is recommended for complex applications. Would you like to provide more specific information about your application, such as the type of fluid being cooled, desired temperature, and available water supply? This would help in providing a more accurate sizing recommendation.
@@racerdude7149 Not everyone shares your IQ. Most people assume that one way or another the water will have enough cooling surface to maintain temperature. This is a way of using water cooling without cutting the refrigerant pipe.
Bro, when people want to water cool AC units...this is just the start. Once you get some cooper tubes on that thing it'll be sick, however, be careful with refrigerants, compressors can be oicky about what thyley want to oump.
How to use water to cool if i have no water tap? Can i use a water pump instead? How to get cool water if i have no water tap? Do i need to add coolant liquid to the water ?
@@ianbuilder Please tell us where we could see that you used "butane". At 6:39 we can clearly see you used a can of 134a with a chemical formula of C2H2F4. No where in this video do we see a can of R600a with a chemical formula of C4H10 (butane / isobutane) For the ignorant, the main difference between these two refrigerants, 134a is nonflammable while R600a is flammable. Also, why wouldn't you use propane rather than butane? R600a (C4H10) costs $0.65 / oz, while propane (C3H8) costs $0.01 / oz
Amazed that hose can take 250 PSI High side pressure.
That size of hose it look like it only rated for 150psi but somehow he got a super ver of it lol
Just what I was looking for
My AC runs a lot colder since you showed me this trick. I rigged up a water jug to drip right on the radiator, just gotta refill it every 4 hours during the day.
glad i could help, i bet it uses less power now too
@@ianbuilder Definitely, thanks again bro.
We used portable AC units for interior rooms in a university which were hooked up to sinks for cold water sources. They worked great and used about 1/4 gal of water per mins
I want to convert a portable AC into water cooled like this , but i dont have the knowledge about air conditioner and the welding of copper tube, this video is great for me
Ok now we got it working 😂😂
so true
He just built a marine AC unit…. Exactly how they work. And pretty sure if you use a large ground loop that’s how geothermal works too.
The clever thing is to do this at house size and use a pool as the water source…. Then you have a pool heater as well.
Me: randomly searching aircon and im here now +1 Subscribe
Are the fluids travelling through the block in opposite directions? That is supposed to help with heat transfer/efficiency.
Also- you can use electronic duster “canned air” as a coolant (R152) vs R134, and you can use less of it (2/3 by weight of 134 iirc)
3:48 the censoring lmaooo i love this channel
we don't actually care abt identity leaks now
Did you ever use the hot side to heat your pool?
9:39 been a year, did you abandon the split unit project?
Or something to look forward to next summer?
Nice modification. I think you can cool the water using a high efficient radiator or use the radiator used on the AC so that you can extend the heat away. This way, no window rooms can have AC now. I have a batch freezer used to make ice cream and it is water cooled which water is wasted to drain, was thinking on using a radiator to cool the water and place it outside/different location.
whats the difference in watt? is it more efficient in power consumption?
yes, it was close to 80% more efficient
@@ianbuilder What is your math on that? All you have eliminated power-wise was the condenser fan. You are still running the compressor and you still need a blower for the evap coil. Condenser fans usually only make up about 10-20% of the power consumed in an AC unit. Supply fan motors are also about 10-20% and the compressor is about 70-80%. And, you are either going to waste a ton of water on an open loop, or you still need a way to cool the water on a closed loop. So you will need a fan/radiator setup somewhere to reject the heat from the water. All you did was make this unit a little quieter.
Pre cool the water with ground loop geothermal.
Nice job. very cool
When is jet powered ac dropping?
damnnn i need to think how that would work first
Nice work for explaining the process. How did you size the flat plate heat exchanger?
Sizing a Water-Cooled Heat Exchanger for 12,000 BTUs
Understanding the Basics
Before diving into calculations, it's essential to understand the key parameters:
* Heat Load: The amount of heat to be removed, which is 12,000 BTUs in your case.
* Inlet and Outlet Temperatures: The temperature of the water entering and leaving the heat exchanger.
* Water Flow Rate: The volume of water passing through the heat exchanger per unit time.
* Heat Transfer Coefficient: A measure of how efficiently heat is transferred between the two fluids.
Steps Involved:
* Determine Inlet and Outlet Water Temperatures:
* This depends on your application. For example, if cooling a machine, you'd want to determine the maximum allowable outlet water temperature.
* A typical range might be 70°F to 90°F.
* Calculate Required Water Flow Rate:
* Use the following formula:
* Q = m_dot * Cp * ΔT
* Where:
* Q = heat transfer rate (BTU/hr)
* m_dot = mass flow rate of water (lbm/hr)
* Cp = specific heat of water (BTU/lbm°F)
* ΔT = temperature difference between inlet and outlet water (°F)
* Rearrange the formula to solve for m_dot.
* Estimate Heat Transfer Coefficient:
* This depends on the heat exchanger type (shell-and-tube, plate, etc.), materials, and flow conditions.
* Typical values can range from 100 to 1000 BTU/hr-ft²-°F.
* Calculate Required Heat Transfer Area:
* Use the following formula:
* Q = U * A * LMTD
* Where:
* Q = heat transfer rate (BTU/hr)
* U = overall heat transfer coefficient (BTU/hr-ft²-°F)
* A = heat transfer area (ft²)
* LMTD = log mean temperature difference (°F)
* Calculate LMTD based on inlet and outlet temperatures of both fluids.
* Rearrange the formula to solve for A.
* Select a Heat Exchanger:
* Use the calculated heat transfer area to select a heat exchanger from manufacturer catalogs or consult with a heat exchanger specialist.
* Consider factors like pressure drop, materials compatibility, and cost.
Additional Considerations:
* Fouling: Over time, deposits can form on the heat exchanger surfaces, reducing efficiency. Consider fouling factors when calculating the heat transfer coefficient.
* Pressure Drop: Ensure the selected heat exchanger has an acceptable pressure drop for your system.
* Material Compatibility: Choose materials compatible with the fluids involved.
* Cost: Balance performance requirements with budget constraints.
Example:
Assuming:
* Inlet water temperature = 70°F
* Outlet water temperature = 90°F
* Desired water flow rate = 10 gallons per minute (gpm)
* Estimated heat transfer coefficient = 300 BTU/hr-ft²-°F
You can calculate the required heat transfer area and select a suitable heat exchanger.
Note: This is a simplified overview. Accurate heat exchanger sizing often requires detailed calculations and consideration of various factors. Consulting with a heat exchanger expert is recommended for complex applications.
Would you like to provide more specific information about your application, such as the type of fluid being cooled, desired temperature, and available water supply? This would help in providing a more accurate sizing recommendation.
It would be easier to put the condenser heat exchanger in a tank of water even if you have to make the tank out of plywood and J B weld.
And then when the water tank gets warm?? Are you going to make a water chiller for that tank?
@@racerdude7149
Not everyone shares your IQ. Most people assume that one way or another the water will have enough cooling surface to maintain temperature. This is a way of using water cooling without cutting the refrigerant pipe.
How long did it run like this? Any data on amps and such? Thanks for the vid it’s thought provoking.
its still going drew 400w at 120v
very nice
Would it work, if you just place the condenser in a container, then used a pump to pump the water around, with tubing??
yep
@@ianbuilder What if you used a coaxial tube heat exchanger coil as condenser on a portable a/c, & used a radiator to watercool it
I love they way he explains shit
Bro, when people want to water cool AC units...this is just the start. Once you get some cooper tubes on that thing it'll be sick, however, be careful with refrigerants, compressors can be oicky about what thyley want to oump.
How to use water to cool if i have no water tap? Can i use a water pump instead? How to get cool water if i have no water tap? Do i need to add coolant liquid to the water ?
Water cooled condesners are already there in commercial units
not in room sized units
My guy it’s Bryan I need a 36v battery 20AH for my Jetson bolt pro😊
email me
What is it again I forgot bc
can you make an ac like that that runs on 12v only?
Yes, it's the same machine, but yours use 12v DC to rum the compressor, it's the only diference.
I wonder if this will get like 100,000 views like your other ac video
i hope
My god, its not even flared. Im surprised the hose didnt fly off
nice
0:56 I've never heard you say this before.
Great music lol
Next step, replace your home ac condenser with a more sizable heat exchanger, get a hot tub, profit
3:55 ,, man are you alrigth,, what happened to your neck there?
Should have vacuumed the system first
My mans got his diagram and terminology so messed up
😂😂 amazing 😂
Are you cheese
The EPA would like to know your location.
as you could see i used butane instead
@@ianbuilder Please tell us where we could see that you used "butane". At 6:39 we can clearly see you used a can of 134a with a chemical formula of C2H2F4.
No where in this video do we see a can of R600a with a chemical formula of C4H10 (butane / isobutane)
For the ignorant, the main difference between these two refrigerants, 134a is nonflammable while R600a is flammable.
Also, why wouldn't you use propane rather than butane?
R600a (C4H10) costs $0.65 / oz, while propane (C3H8) costs $0.01 / oz
@@PH_INFO_101 6:55
@@ianbuilder My apologies sir. I stand corrected
@@PH_INFO_101 its all good ,thanks for watching
Highly energy insufficient