Відео

As a formation I am actualy a mechanic, not an electrician and I am not fully qualified as a electrician. But because it is almost impossible for me to bring an electrician to work in my garage and also to be willing to repair old bikes I had to learn over the years to be also a kind of electrician. I have learned a lot of things from others but also today the internet is helping very much if you are carefull to choose the right sources.

Buna ziua! Din pacate nu va pot ajuta, timpul meu este foarte limitat si nu traiesc din reparatii moto. Ca fapt divers, motorul de Dnepr din video este inca pe acelasi banc de lucru si este nepornit doar pt ca nu am avut timp sa-l pornesc.

@lznicu Bună,am înțeles.O zi buna.

It is possible but I did not found any other way. Also I did not found any manual for BMW R35.

It should be 28 degrees at 4000rpm according to the Kimco manual.

The very first type of M63 had this sidecar, it was also a variant with torsion bar and shock absorber but they were produced in very smal numbers and are not known. Good info about the torsion bars for Morris 1000, I am sure the problem relates to all cars with torsion bars.

Yes, I am from Romania, near Bucharest. I did not tried with 6V.

Ar putea merge daca ai trecut pe 12V dar e mai greu de adaptat din cauza rotorului care vine pe axul cu came. In loc de rotor ar putea fi folosite camele de la platina dar nu am probat deocamdata. Daca ai instalatia pe 6V merge foarte bine cu Gotronic de 6V si bobina de Fiat ca cea prezentata in video, eu asa am pe M72-ul meu care e pe 6V.

I don't remember but there is no measure in the manual. I have made the measurments at the time by leting the clutch rod to travel enough. If you tight to much the clutch will not disengage, if you let to loose the rod will not push the clutch cover. So you have to find little by little the correct tightening of the nut.

@@lznicu thanks!

The ignition advance is electronic and is done by the CDI unit.

www.ebay.com/itm/155718773070?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

@@lznicu Thank you!

Yes, I can say is my own my design in the way that I have designed two parts in order to be able to use some scooter parts (CDI and the sensor) in order to work on this engine. The plate on which I have assembled the sensor and the trigger of the sensor are made on my own design and they were executed by a turner.

Or you have made an error or the fork is worn out and it is not pulling enough.

@@lznicu I restored all this parts. And them is in good condition

@@Andrey_Tarariew Or you have made a mistake or you have a wrong part, maybe the disk clutch is too thick. This clutch is quit simple, you should see what is wrong. When you pull the clutch you feel the tension of the springs or is solid?

@@lznicu on pulling clutch is absolute solid. I checked that is placing correct and not replacing during assembling

@@Andrey_Tarariew That means something is wrong, if you have a solid feel for the clutch something is not ok. The bolts of the clutch with the springs are original?

The bearings for axial play are available in different thickness according to your needs after measurment. First you have to measure the play and after that you establish the thicknes of the bearing that you need acording to the specs in the manual and your measurements. There are four bearings available: 08 Stop disk 2,483-2,53 2 11111256973 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,53-2,578 2 11111256974 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,578-2,626 2 11111256975 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,626-2,673 2 11111256976 $35.31 Give me a link from Brookes Airhead to see about that wrong reading but I don't thing it was because of the oil because the oil film is too thin to influence the measurements.

@@lznicu hi Luca thank you for replying. here is extensive article on main engine Trust Washers.....I found his mistake and how he corrected it.........I'm following his and your ways ......I'm glad to see your vids again hope your well and keeping busy with your video of bike and especially engine building .....please more vids on this and more explanation on your process it is a great help so thank you.... I'm just clean the oil pan and bottom of the block as there's a little gap so I'm lapping those parts just got to check the crank shaft oil passages one final clean then back to gather. it's been a learning curve for me at 65 but loving it.......hope you keep in touch...stay safe chap..regards Phil

Почему? В чем проблема?!

@@lznicu.. датчик не понятный, комментарии одни иностранцы пишут.. С коммутатором не понятно как подключён. И на раме под баком.. сверхновая установка, непонятного образца.. Даже предугадывать не стал, иностранцы додумались, наши нет.

@@kenteytonor7178 Я постараюсь найти время, чтобы объяснить эту систему зажигания и необходимые детали. Подпишитесь на мой канал UA-cam, чтобы получать уведомления. Это простая и дешевая система зажигания.

As you have seen I did not use excesive force and I did not use the screwdriver between the surfaces. I have pushed with the screwdriver in the shoulders designed for opening the case.

Salut! Orice e posibil... ar fi interesant sa descrieti aici in cateva cuvinte istoria ei.

That red light is permanent for iginition on green red is for neutral. The charging system is a modern one whitout light control and the owner wanted to have the red light for ignition on.

@@lznicu alles gut Danke für Info

100cc for each pipe. It is not a hidraulic fork so you can use any type of oil. I have used T90 transmission oil but like i said you can use any tipe of oil.

👍thank you very much !@@lznicu

I am not russian.

@@lznicu yes I see you are Romanian

www.motorradmeistermilz.de/ and oldtimergarage.eu/gb/ . There are others sites but this are the usual.

I had a problem with the camshaft, described here: ua-cam.com/video/QwU-Y_M7HQE/v-deo.html . After solving the problem the chirp sound dissapeard. In your case if the the camshaft is not the problem it could be the ignition timing.

I know about this improvments but after this work the rear drive is working just fine. I have now near 1000km and no oil loss until know. On this rear drive which is actualy a Dnepr 650 rear drive with a M72 cover suspension I have the ventilated dipstick wich release the pressure built inside the rear drive.

Just because it was available, it was rebuilt by me for a K750 project that is paused for the moment.

We had a complete set for timing gears and chain: www.motorradmeistermilz.de/Antrieb-fuer-Steuerung-EMW-R35