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Luca Stere
Romania
Приєднався 29 лип 2011
Here you can see videos with and about old engines and motorcycles.
Forums where you can see my work: www.motorist.ro , www.russianiron.com.
Forums where you can see my work: www.motorist.ro , www.russianiron.com.
My Dnepr 650 engine tappets
In this video you can see some problems about the engine tappets.
Переглядів: 75
Відео
Working on my sidecare frame
Переглядів 486Місяць тому
In this video you can see some work done on my sidecar frame.
Finishing the head cylinders for Dnepr 650 engine
Переглядів 3822 місяці тому
In this video you can see the work done for the Dnepr 650 head cylinders.
How to unlock the exhaust nuts on BMW R80
Переглядів 1632 місяці тому
In this video you can see how to unlock the exhaust nuts on BMW airhead R series whotout damaging the threads on the head cylinders.
Manufacturing pushroad tubes for Dnepr/Ural 650 engines
Переглядів 2783 місяці тому
In this video you can see how to build your own pushroad tubes. The advantage is that you can change the lenght and the outer diameter if needed.
Removing the valve guides - Dnepr 650
Переглядів 3994 місяці тому
In this video I am showing the work for the valve guides removal on Dnepr 650 cylinder heads.
My 1988 Dnepr 650 engine
Переглядів 3864 місяці тому
This video is about a 1988 Dnepr 650 engine that I have to complete in order to start a Dnepr 650 project bike that I have in my garage in pieces. The video was already rebuilt 5-6 years ago but at some point I had to take the cylinders and the headcylinders in order to complete another Dnepr 650 engine. More infos in this link where you can see more then 500 pictures with the work done: pro-bi...
The design of BMW R80 exhaust silencers
Переглядів 1295 місяців тому
In this video we can see the interior design of a BMW R80 silencers. The silencers were cracked at the middle because of the rust and I have to throw them away.
IMZ M72 rear drive losing oil
Переглядів 6066 місяців тому
In this video you can see how my rear drive was losing oil and how I solved this problem. You can aply this solution to all russian boxers or Chang Jiang rear drives.
Ural M72 - Front fork yoke (HD)
Переглядів 4407 місяців тому
I had a problem with the new chinese lower front forke yoke, it was faulty from the factory and I had to change this part.
BMW - Problems with the SUM carburetor
Переглядів 2648 місяців тому
BMW - Problems with the SUM carburetor
Adapting a modern 6V light bulb for the generator light
Переглядів 1569 місяців тому
In this video you can see how to adapt a modern 6V light bulb into the case of an old type 6V light bulb.
Still working!
Переглядів 29410 місяців тому
In this video I am explaining why I have take a pause for posting videos with my work.
Ural M72 - Side stand improvement
Переглядів 450Рік тому
In this video you can see the work done in order to improve a new chinese CJ750 side stand.
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 54 The carburetor
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 54 The carburetor
Ural M72 / KMZ K750 - Ignition timing setup
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
Ural M72 / KMZ K750 - Ignition timing setup
Ural M72 / KMZ K750 Checking camshaft timing gear accuracy
Переглядів 3,1 тис.Рік тому
Ural M72 / KMZ K750 Checking camshaft timing gear accuracy
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 53 The speedometer
Переглядів 975Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 53 The speedometer
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 52 The 6V generator (dinamo)
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 52 The 6V generator (dinamo)
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 51 Back to work
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 51 Back to work
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 50 Assembling the rear drive
Переглядів 2,9 тис.Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 50 Assembling the rear drive
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 49 Assembling the front fork and engine
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 49 Assembling the front fork and engine
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 48 Testing the engine for oil leaks (HD)
Переглядів 1 тис.Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 48 Testing the engine for oil leaks (HD)
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 47 Painted fender and other parts (HD)
Переглядів 812Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 47 Painted fender and other parts (HD)
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 47 Headlight shell
Переглядів 689Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 47 Headlight shell
FIVA World Motorcycle Event 2022 Brasov-Romania
Переглядів 129Рік тому
FIVA World Motorcycle Event 2022 Brasov-Romania
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 46 Pinstriped frame and work on the rear fender
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
BMW R35 (1938) - Part 46 Pinstriped frame and work on the rear fender
BMW R60/5 resurrection (Part 13) - Finishing the bike
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 роки тому
BMW R60/5 resurrection (Part 13) - Finishing the bike
BMW R60/5 resurrection (Part 12) - Finishing the electrics and handlebar
Переглядів 1,8 тис.2 роки тому
BMW R60/5 resurrection (Part 12) - Finishing the electrics and handlebar
Hi, where did you get the replica gauge?
That is a really tidy solution, this is your own design?
Yes, I can say is my own my design in the way that I have designed two parts in order to be able to use some scooter parts (CDI and the sensor) in order to work on this engine. The plate on which I have assembled the sensor and the trigger of the sensor are made on my own design and they were executed by a turner.
great job you done removing this rusted parts!
Nice work
Hello, maybe you can help me. I assembled clutch but its not pressed like on your video 26:35. It's not working, had assembled by your video, any ideas?
Or you have made an error or the fork is worn out and it is not pulling enough.
@@lznicu I restored all this parts. And them is in good condition
@@Andrey_Tarariew Or you have made a mistake or you have a wrong part, maybe the disk clutch is too thick. This clutch is quit simple, you should see what is wrong. When you pull the clutch you feel the tension of the springs or is solid?
@@lznicu on pulling clutch is absolute solid. I checked that is placing correct and not replacing during assembling
@@Andrey_Tarariew That means something is wrong, if you have a solid feel for the clutch something is not ok. The bolts of the clutch with the springs are original?
I also have a R60 but mines a /6........I have a question for you,,, you mentioned at end when measuring the main front bearing difference you need a different thickness bearing??? if you did which did you replace if at all????? on UA-cam also "Brookes Airhead garage " he also added oil / lube to the faces of the thrust washers and had a Wrong reading ...... please I would love to know as I'm at that stage now with my engine........ by the way totally loving watching your videos on this build.....hope you do more and more in-depth please......thank you soooooo much Luca. regards Phil
The bearings for axial play are available in different thickness according to your needs after measurment. First you have to measure the play and after that you establish the thicknes of the bearing that you need acording to the specs in the manual and your measurements. There are four bearings available: 08 Stop disk 2,483-2,53 2 11111256973 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,53-2,578 2 11111256974 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,578-2,626 2 11111256975 $35.31 08 Stop disk 2,626-2,673 2 11111256976 $35.31 Give me a link from Brookes Airhead to see about that wrong reading but I don't thing it was because of the oil because the oil film is too thin to influence the measurements.
@@lznicu hi Luca thank you for replying. here is extensive article on main engine Trust Washers.....I found his mistake and how he corrected it.........I'm following his and your ways ......I'm glad to see your vids again hope your well and keeping busy with your video of bike and especially engine building .....please more vids on this and more explanation on your process it is a great help so thank you.... I'm just clean the oil pan and bottom of the block as there's a little gap so I'm lapping those parts just got to check the crank shaft oil passages one final clean then back to gather. it's been a learning curve for me at 65 but loving it.......hope you keep in touch...stay safe chap..regards Phil
похоже в России такой не поставить..
Почему? В чем проблема?!
@@lznicu.. датчик не понятный, комментарии одни иностранцы пишут.. С коммутатором не понятно как подключён. И на раме под баком.. сверхновая установка, непонятного образца.. Даже предугадывать не стал, иностранцы додумались, наши нет.
@@kenteytonor7178 Я постараюсь найти время, чтобы объяснить эту систему зажигания и необходимые детали. Подпишитесь на мой канал UA-cam, чтобы получать уведомления. Это простая и дешевая система зажигания.
A screwdriver? To separate alloy castings? Seriously?!!
As you have seen I did not use excesive force and I did not use the screwdriver between the surfaces. I have pushed with the screwdriver in the shoulders designed for opening the case.
Lækker mc husk nr-plade på forskærm er forbudt 👍🏁❤️🏁👍🇩🇰
aber lieber ohne Pumpe fahren
Mein Pumpe funktioniert auch
Habe selbe aber in Zivil Orginal lack
Salut. Cred ca cunosc istoricul acestei motociclete de inainte sa o restaurati dvs. Am remontat-o ptr ca era dezmembrata . Pe aceasta motocicleta inclusiv regele Mihai s-a plimbat.
Salut! Orice e posibil... ar fi interesant sa descrieti aici in cateva cuvinte istoria ei.
От чего стоит шторка?
sehr schönen Klang deie fischschwänze
Ladekontrolle geht bei Gasannahme nicht aus !!!!Regler ???
That red light is permanent for iginition on green red is for neutral. The charging system is a modern one whitout light control and the owner wanted to have the red light for ignition on.
@@lznicu alles gut Danke für Info
👍
Thanks Luca. Great video as usual. This is a job I will need to get around to myself in a few thousand kilometers on my 650 Dnepr.
I 'have a question concerning the fork.What kind of oil and quanty is needed by pipe ? Thanks a lot in advance. Regards from France.
100cc for each pipe. It is not a hidraulic fork so you can use any type of oil. I have used T90 transmission oil but like i said you can use any tipe of oil.
👍thank you very much !@@lznicu
Why you don't speak Russian? I think if you will make videos on russian you will have more subscribers and views
I am not russian.
@@lznicu yes I see you are Romanian
hi luca how to install carburator in the engine
Excelent tutorials. Congratulations. Very professional. We are restoring now an R35 and R4. Can you recommend sites to buy parts? Thanks in advance
www.motorradmeistermilz.de/ and oldtimergarage.eu/gb/ . There are others sites but this are the usual.
You're the boss man the best one
What is the high pitched "chirp" I hear when its running? I have same thing happening with mine.
I had a problem with the camshaft, described here: ua-cam.com/video/QwU-Y_M7HQE/v-deo.html . After solving the problem the chirp sound dissapeard. In your case if the the camshaft is not the problem it could be the ignition timing.
There are several options to get rid of it: oil seals instead of original rubber seal (59 mm diameter) and into the axis gear. The second is oil vent in the body of drive to drop off overheated air and oil fog which increase pressure and squeeze oil out.
I know about this improvments but after this work the rear drive is working just fine. I have now near 1000km and no oil loss until know. On this rear drive which is actualy a Dnepr 650 rear drive with a M72 cover suspension I have the ventilated dipstick wich release the pressure built inside the rear drive.
Why you place engine from K750? And handelbar from K750, MT...
Just because it was available, it was rebuilt by me for a K750 project that is paused for the moment.
Hello what type of chain did you use on this engine? Or from which model it can be replaced?I can't find analogue.
We had a complete set for timing gears and chain: www.motorradmeistermilz.de/Antrieb-fuer-Steuerung-EMW-R35
Great video! In Russia we don't use Ural/Dnepr motorcycles as a solo ride, 99% are used with sidecar, so there's no good video instructions how to properly install side stand. As far as I'm building bije without sidecar, your information is really useful for me, thanks.
Thank you so much for this series. Invaluable R35 resource. You are very good and I enjoyed the calm style.
Sooo nice work, I´m just working with -50 R/35
Hello, great video and fantastic work. Where did you get your replica parts?
There are various shops on internet but mostly from here: www.motorradmeistermilz.de/
Yeah me too, thanks! I just bought a 1973 UraL with a K750 engine/gearbox in Australia and clear information is hard to find.... 👍
Beautiful result! I love it. Congrats on a completed restoration! I've really enjoyed your videos
Hey Luca, very nice Bike. Dont you kick-start without delayed ignition? I've once broke the notch of the starting mechanism in mine r35 by not doing this!
No , I have used the delayed ignition, if you look carefully you will see my left thumb moving the lever.
Bravo, super travail ! Toutes vos vidéos me sont bien utiles pour la restauration de ma R35 de 1937.
tremendous work and big thank you for sharing the hole story. I have the same Machine from 1948 and i started few weeks ago. Youre videos are very helpfull. Thank you very much
Buna treaba!
Золотые руки, молодец! Поздравляю с завершением проекта! Глаз не оторвать! Шикарно!
Congratulations !
Is the old air Filter for sale ?
No, it is not for sale.
Is Ural m63 this same rule?
Yes, is the same rule.
Cheers, the bike looks great. Shame with all the work and suspended license. Maybe it's time you dropped the fast Japanese for a slow veteran bike. (that was anyway also my plan in getting the R35)
thank you
Well done luca.
like
Is it normal that spring in retarder going back that knob?
Pozdrawiam
Great job on the 35 Luca,
Greetings. Do you use the eccentric screw at all for setting the distributor plate when setting up timing or just the way your video shows?