Відео

Turbo, 3 cale, rownoodleglosciowy kolektor - wydech nie robi dzwieku tylko kolektor

DET3 still - going LCEcu for 2025

@@svicide_sexvs nice I have my T04E on FCD Last 2 years bought a gt28 now

@@JDsGaragei blew a rod and am currently waiting for forged decompressing rods but will stay with det and stock harness for this season

@@svicide_sexvs blew mine last Friday oil line came off and seized engine lol

@@JDsGarage damn, my block just arrived today to the guy who will bore out the oil canals and will drive it over to the machine shop so they can bore the block out to 75.5mm and get it all honed, polish the crank etc

Panewke mi złapało póki co i silnik wyjebał ale pompowal 0.7 i jakies 260 koni, teraz juz bedzie kuty odrazu przy okazji i licze na 400

No bov

Tutaj tak - 3 minuty 3000 obrotow i mozna powtorzyc kilka razy procedure odpowietrzania szklanek - jak sie rozgrzeje to przestanie bo to w zimniejsze dni standard 😁

Equal length manifold, i wanted a higher pitched dose so i even changed the setup and shortened it after this video but unfortunately i blew a rod so i'm trying to rebuild with GZE or GTE pistons 😁

@@svicide_sexvs Is it a divided manifold (6-2 or 6-2-1) or an all-into 1? Twin scroll turbo housing or no? Also, for higher pitched dose, use a smaller diameter (it will limit flow/power, though). The length determines how long the first note lasts, and if actually doses at all (it won't if it's too short) or just makes chipmunk whooshing sounds (too long). TBH I wouldn't recommend going less than 3" diameter as that'll already limit flow to around 350-400 crank HP. So a 3" by 25-40cm is good. You can use a curve as long as it's a long-sweep curve and you have at least 15-25cm before and 10cm after the curve. The lengths all change based on the diameter due to an area rule. The ratios are, as I said, 3x-4x as long as the diameter for an ideal straight dose pipe, and for curves, at least 2x the diameter in length before the curve and 1x the diameter in length after the curve. Ideally, you'd have your full straight dose pipe length (3x-4x diameter) before any curves, but packaging has to be considered, too, of course. The main thing with curves is to not have any tight curves or sudden cutoffs, hence the 1x diameter in length after the curve requirement.

​​⁠i want to go for 45 or less but would need to delete my abs pump first. After the video i changed the pipe from 90 bend 3 inch to straight 10 or 15cm 3inch and it refined the sound real nice and made it even louder. Manifold in 6-1, i'm thinking about modifying it to twin-scroll by dividing jt in half inside but i need to make up my mind next season when i will want to change the turbo from chinesium to PSR or so. Engine spun a rod i think or DET3 fucked up fuel/ignition cause last pull it didn't wanna go above 0, when it did it was fluctuating and it blew at 0.12b. It was random as hell, all other pulls and driving over past months never a problem. Now i'm building my first ever engine and trying to source 1G-GTE rods and pistons, shave block for about 0.5mm to get around 9.0:1 (i will measure gte piston and shelf size so i can calculate if i'm right with the 0.5mm), head have gone for checkup as the new one looks good so i'm gonna get the seals changed and all that as i don't want to do it myself for now, last time i changed seals i have learned that my spring tension tool is shitte so i'm not gonna bother buying some different one now and i invested money into plastigauge, feelers, torque wrench cause i got only a big one and will get onto building the block myself, just gonna get it machined and maybe i'll give it for oil feed port as standard size is pretty small. Plan to go for 400+, maybe 420 for the memes

Did everything myself other than welding the headers and exhaust

Idk, just ordered the ones that looked fitting

It is a little more responsive, can't tell about the power but the torque is definitely better in lower rpms, power could have also increased but didn't check

@@svicide_sexvsdid you get the tune also? Or you just installed the headers and thats it?

@@pajserbabo52​​⁠just the install. My fiancee bought the car back so i'm gonna be doing a retune with 3.0 map as i also got the kn intake in there, will update after what is the difference, until i won't change the lambda sensor i can't do much

@@svicide_sexvs alright, cheers

Around 240 now, after decompression will go for 320

It's cheaper to build just that combo and also i don't like doing the same thing as everyone. I always said that my first Japanese car have to be RWD but they wasn't cheap so after i finally made it i saw people were adding sulerchargers and turbochargers to 1G and i decided to go into that and to make i hope in future a powerful one making +400, this is my goal. Same engine was in Supra MKIII but factory boosted with different head and piston/rods and swapping 2JZ-GE or something like this is just too expensive and also doesn't make sense to drop so much money into swapping an engine that will do not a lot more horsepower stock than my 1G so i want to do something "new" and if i don't sell the car in the meantime, i will surely start to collect parts and forged internals to someday make it above the normal decompressed 1G limit (350 is the point of rods, people go for around 320hp on decompression plate).

Also after standalone ECU you can rev this engine out of factory 6300 up to 7500rpm

Better be wasting money on these cars than on drugs and other shit 💀😁

Powiedziałem sobie że drugi raz tego nie robie ale pewnie bym to zrobił xD Wychodzi różnie ale same graty do turbo to dobrze miec odłożone z 15k bo najwiecej kosztuje kolektor i wydech z turbo, jednomas trzeba wstawić z sprzęgłem, no jest troche roboty ale jak ma się części to do ogarnięcia, za takie coś normalny warsztat wziąłby pewnie kilka tysi bo nie wiedzą co i jak i pewnie potem byłyby jaja, ja to mogę zrobić za 2k bo jest trochę roboty typu ściąganie miski itd. a to auto buduje w garażu blaszanym bez prądu itd xDDD

A jak się jeździ z tym jednomasem? Jest dużo gorzej czy w miarę znośnie? Ja tak jak kolega byłbym zainteresowany xD

@@zachy__ nie wiem bo mój miał przejechane pewnie całe 290kkm jak go zmieniałem więc ogólnie to napierdalało całym silnikiem i budą XD Ogólnie nie czuje różnicy między dwumasem a jednomasem, oprocz tego ze dużo lepiej się wkręca

@@zachy__ jak macie hajs i chcecie to robić to można się dogadywać xD

@@svicide_sexvs chłop nie ma na is'a a na mody będzie miał xD

Yeah, along with DET3

Isnt det3 only for 4 cilinder engine??

@@fernando12rm98nope, as far as i know it goes up to 8 cylinders i think and you can group cylinders in 2 or something

Brak blow-offa. Z nim nie byłoby flutteru

@@svicide_sexvs w sumie racja - det3 czy jakiś standalone ?

@@stanisawkalarepa9621 jeszcze DET

Sam, jedynie części zamawiałem u kumpla co turbi Lexusy a kolektor, wydech i turbo uzywka po 1500km przebiegu bo swap na 1JZ zaczeli 😁

@@svicide_sexvs mogę napisać jutro do Ciebie na fb?

Bo dzisiaj już trochę późno, a mam kilka pytań 😅

@@lecramoo4897możesz pytać tu albo na insta, teraz albo jutro czy kiedyś tam 😁

@@svicide_sexvs na grupkach łatwo Ciebie znalezc 🤠

Lag, za kazdym razem potrzebuja chwili, nie wiem czy kwestia cisnienia czy moze zaworek zwrotny juz nie dziala jako zwrotny xD

@@svicide_sexvs gosc z grupki pisał ze tez ma takiego laga i dokladal zaworek ktory nic nie dawal xD pewnie cos nie tak ze srednicami. Sumarycznie szyba jest bardziej sucha na mglowych niz na ori spryskach xD

@@adrianrobal5612 no wlasnie po jakims czasie teraz stwierdzam ze niby mozliwe ze jest troche lepiej ale w sumie finalnie to chyba faktycznie chuja zmienia xD

All custom made 😁 Thank you!

very nice! do you have an instagram?

@@r34bryan yeah, same as youtube - SVICIDE_SEXVS

Wasn't too bolt on. You have to take off heatshield from the engine mount or hammer the header a little bit so it fits just in. Other than that it's perfectly fitting - just try to get one with the lambda ports down in all the runners exit and not in the middle cylinder runners on top - it won't work, it'll throw codes and you will have to weld additional ports in the lower section. If you have the rear ones out or coded out then you just plug the upper holes for lambda sensors and you use the bottom ones :D

Yeah, it was cause of pvc but my friend already replaced it :D

of course its garbage bmw 😃😃💩💩💩

Rare as fuck, its JE as far as i saw on the lens but couldnt find anything, i know of two sets existing so best i think is to go for custom

In N52 that's "normal", i recently got the car back and it still does that occassionally as i experienced it once a week ago. The oil, level etc. doesn't change anything. I used Shell Helix Ultra before and now im driving on Ravenol VST Turbo 5W40 with Archoil 9100 additive as supposed in these engines and it is better but still occurs in some strange conditions. It's just the way it is in thee engines, would need to get head from 2007 year or more and mine is the one from march 2005 where it doesn't have the piston and rings fault but it has head fault. Thank you for warning me though :D

@@svicide_sexvs I have the N53 engine on my 325i LCI, on mine the "clack clack" is normal, it comes from the high pressure pump. But on the N52 this noise is not normal. Have you checked your Vanos Solenoid? A friend has the N52, he had this "clack clack" noise, and that was what it was coming from. Check your DISA too. 👌

@@JustForFunX80 it's hydraulic lifters bleeded of oil. There is a special service procedure released by BMW for removing air bubbles out of the system ;D This video was actually made after replacing disa, cleaning vanos solenoids and filters and car drives fine to this day, made 50kkm and still is fine, no oil consumption or nothing. Just this annoying sound sometimes in the colder days. 97% of times it drives its running smooth and quiet as a butter 🥰

It was stock, just the back box delete and headers

Sounds class

Przeca jest napisane w tytule ze sa kolektory nierdzewne decat

Nothing negative about this 🥰

@@svicide_sexvs fml I'm doing it to a untouched fully original w201 next season lol

@@Lantan139 i just took off the original filter cover and put on filters so no modifications needed 😁

@@Lantan139 just get long slim ones cause these ones were stuck each on other so just to have more clearance :P

It was hot, it's N52 and lifter tick in these engines are normal from time to time - faulty head construction of oil canals ;)

Or it can be low oil level, im having same ticking noise when oil level is below minimum

@@svicide_sexvs I have had a N52 for 3 years, the lifter tick is only while it's cold if it doesn't stop when warm you have either the wrong oil or low oil. Get it checked, not supposed to be like that all the time mate

@@ZebbzFilms It was only in winter, whole summer it was quiet, car is still driving and no problems with it cause friend have it :P

No lifter tick is very normal for a N52.