Відео

Karen, Thank you so much for your note. I am sorry to have not answered sooner. I have been away from my computer for the last month. To answer your question, when I first saw a demnstration of needle felting a steek, I wondered where my brain was to have not thought of it myself. So genius! The truth is, I want to do some experiementing with the technique myself. I have questions. Does the steek strink when felted? Does felting the entire steek panel affect the ability to pick up stitches for sleeves or a front rib if working on a caridgan? If you only felt the very middle stitches, leaving the stitches closest to the body unfelted so you can pick up sts, what affect does that have? Is a felted steek stiffer than unfelted steek? Does that affect the drape of the garment? I have a friend who does beautiful felting projects and obvioulsy has needle felting equiptment. We have talked about geting together for experiements, but so far not have not been able to make that happen. She lives 45 minutes away. I know this probably not answered your question. Sorry. If you do some experiemnts, lease let me know your results...and I will try to get together with my friend and try some things myself. Thanks again for asking. V

Ok, Ches...Yes, you can turn a pullover into a cardi. Incidentally, applause to you for doing a bottom up pattern. I find it is the way to go. You get the boring stuff over right up front and then you can reward yourself with the colorwork yoke which is decreasing as you go. It's the best! Back to your question...there are a couple of things to consider when it comees to the coorwork....I find that cardis work best when the colorwork on either side of the steek stiches up the front is a mirror image of itself which sometimes means adding an extra stitch at the end of the round. Add your steek stitches in when you cast on the bottom ribbing. The steek stitches contintue to the neck. This way the cut steek flaps add a bit of stability to to the front edges. I am not sure where I picked it up, but I add a prul stitch at the begining and end of the steek st section. P1, K8, P1...as I do a 10 sts steek. I pick up for the front ribbings...and also sleeve sts....between the purl st and the body of the sweater (jumper). During Part 2 of the steek episodes, I talk about how and where you pick up stitches up for the front ribbings and /or for hte sleeves. The pattern of those steek sts is separate from the pattern of the sweater. think of them as just place holders for the openings. Traditionally, the pattern in the steeks is either stripes...alternateing the two yarns you have per rnd...or a checkbroad...which is what I do...mostly because that is how the person who taught me did her steek stitches. In your casem whe you get to the yoke. For the body, just knit the steek sts in the body yarn. Hopefully, that helps...and is not a vlear as mud. :) Please let me know if you have any other questions. I guess I should ahve asked up front...but what pattern are you working on? I'm here if you need anything. V

@@VarianBrandonBKD Thank you so much for such a quick reply. Your information will be so much help. I have just completed the corrugated rib so now for the boring part of the plain body. The pattern i am knitting is a Kate Davies called Coofle. I m using her Land o' Cakes pattern as a guide for the steeking. I am using Shetland Spindrift wool. I have a feeling you may hear from me again before I complete this project. Many thanks, Dianne

You are welcome, Sandra! Let me know if you ahve any questions. V

I have always said those that are afraid of steeks have never done them. So glad you went for it! I'm here if you have any questions. V

Thanks, Julie. I am so glad I could help. Le me know if there are any other stranded videos you would like to see. V

@@VarianBrandonBKD thanks so much!!! I figured I’m over thinking it!!! I think it didn’t help that the pattern I was following said a 7 stitch steek and then said to change colors in the middle of the steek, which is kinda difficult to do in the middle of an odd number lol! I’m not very far into it so I’m going to pull it out and stick with your 10 stitch steek!! Thanks again!!!!

Kathy, I hate to say this, but it depends. Generally colorwork is worked in the round where the knit side is always facing you, as opposed to knitting flat where you knit a row and purl back. This is done because most colorwork knitters find it is easier to have the knit side facing you at all times. Garments done in thee round usually have little to no seaming and rarely use purl stitches. It is commonly thought that you should work the swatch in the same way. Colorwork knitters generally swatch using methods that simulate knitting in the round. Another factors is most knitters get a different gauge when purling than they do when they are knitting. You will notice I said "most" knitters. You might be one of the knitters who can consistantly get the same gauge knitting and purling. You will have to do some experimenting to see. All in all, I have found it is better to swatch in the manner...or simulated manner... you are going to work the garment. I hopy this helped to answer your question.

Thanks, Wendy. I felt inda rediculous making it that big. Glad it helped.

@@VarianBrandonBKD oh that was wonderful! I’m glad you did!!

I am so glad, Noemi! Let me know if you have any questions.

@@VarianBrandonBKD I don't have any questions for now. I will definitely check out your other videos. Your work is beautiful and inspiring.

@@noemimakesthings555 Thank you for your kind words. I'm here if you have any questions. V

@@VarianBrandonBKD You're welcome! Thanks so much!

These are not difficult and very addictive. If you decide to try, I am here to help.

Harriet, I am so glad I could help. I am here if you have any other questions. V

OMG, Alex, I owe you an appology. Your comment somehow got by me without me answering...or at least commenting. I am so sorry. Hopefully, you have found your answer elsewhere...but just in case...I used to have the same issue until I realized that when using a two handed method and catching the yarn held in the left hand with the yanr held inthe right hand is a two stitch process. Meaning if the left yarn is correctly paced, it takes knitting one stitch normally to lock that left yarn in. Here is a link to a more recent video that might help .... ua-cam.com/video/KmJvaitlFG8/v-deo.html It is under the Tutorials section entitled Catching Floats. Let me knowif you still have an issue. I promise to watch me comments better. V

You are so welcome, Anita. Thank you for watching!

Thanks, Danielle. Good to hear from you. Your prayers are really appreciated.

Aggie, I am so glad you left a comment…and you know Mountain Meadow. Those folks are great friends! If you have any questions about stranded work, please do not hesitate to get in touch. I am here to help…as well as be an enabler! ;)

Elaine, Thanks for asking. That is the cardigan version of my Daddy's Request design. It is worked in worsted weight so the knitting goes fairly quickly. Unfortunately, the colors were stash colors so I cannot tell you exactly what I used. If you are interested, the pattern can be purchased on my website. www.brandonknittingdesigns.com/product-page/daddy-s-request FYI, I have also done a playlist of videos in a KAL for Daddy's Request. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I am here to help. V

@@VarianBrandonBKD I will definitely purchase. I love the design and I have a billion pounds of fleece, so this will be the perfect way to spin some up!

@@thatonegirlelaine I am so glad. I am here if you have any questions or issues. V

Hazel.. The common thought is steeks should only be done in wool...specifically non-superwash wool. However, I have used steeks in superwash, blends, and even cotton. I would guess the "only wool" rule appplied to a steek where you just cut and do not secure either before or afterward... when you are using rustic wools...like Shetland yarn or any of the stickier yarns. With other types of yarns, my advice would be to secure the steeks stitches with either a crochet secure or stitching on either side of the column to be cut with sewing machine stitches before you cut...or any other method wheere the stitches are secured before you cut. With the possible exception of realy slippery silks or synthetics, you should be fine. Even then, a good before cut secure goes a long way. As I've said, I have used steeks in a number of non-wool cases and have not had a problem. I teach classes on using steek stitches using cotton with a crochet secure....and no one has had a problem. Does that help? V

That’s fabulous thank you so much x