Відео

Is this for the Tavor 21 or the X95? Thank you.

Fuck yes bro this is the exact thing I’m dealing with and was sitting there thinking that it was fine to just tack weld it but zip ties are quicker easier and better

If you want a concealed carry gun in a 32 acp so its easier to shoot for say those who have weaker hands/wrists or just simply wanting a much smaller concealed carry gun that is still effective at giving the serious threat a permanent dirt nap, then go with the Beretta Tomcat. Flip-up barrel for easy clambering. No more need to charge the slide action. Just press the button which flips up the barrel, place a 32round in it, and then the auto takes over after pulling the trigger. The gun is also a hammer-fired feature with a SA/DA trigger

Waste of time, use a brass punch.

Thank you for posting this. Not a whole lot of info on the tavor trigger pack. Perhaps you could do a new video that captures the parts better 8:00 ? Those parts would be very helpful

Also,... Nice job with the info and testing results. I will test the chambering with my ammo before.thr range.... What i kept thinking about was powder charges available in 32acp ammo at the time of gun production. Not sure how to confirm this, but what if 2.2 grains was the max charge in the ammo at that time @ 1970???... Could that be possible.? Thanks for the video...

Hi,.. I had the same type of casing failure with a 9mm beretta 92fs. I was.sure it was the gun.at.first.also.... But came to realize the ammo was inferior.

Easiest way is to pour boiling water on the spike before trying to remove. Much easier!

I just installed these in my Fiero, and the way you have it wired up does not work as it is supposed to. Also if it would work as it was supposed to it would be a safety hazard as all the power for the window motors would be drawn from the thin unfused Red wire. There are 2 relays in each module, each relay has 3 wires, +12v, ground, and output. The relays are switched by power applied to the thin wires, so that one relay is connecting output to ground and one is connecting output to +12v, then the output from each relay is sent to the motor, one positive, one negative, that is how it can be switched in two directions. The way the video has it wired up, the switch output is wired to the relay ground, and the motor input is wired to relay output, as the relays are switched to ground when it is unpowered, the window switch is still directly controlling the motors, meaning the only difference between original and this installation is an extra few feet of wire. This is how it should be done. Thick wires; purple/black to +12v, white/black and brown/black to ground, blue/black and green/black to window motor. Thin wires; red to +12v, green and blue to window switch outputs. With it wired this way, each relay has a fused power and ground source to pass on to the window motor, and the relay is triggered via the thin wires by the original window switch. When one thin wire receives power, it turns on one relay, changing its output from ground to +12v while the second unpowered relay is resting at ground, when the other thin wire is powered, the second relay switches from ground to +12v, while the first relay is resting at ground, that way the two output wires reverse polarity, to lower and raise the window. Once installed if window goes down when you press up, and up when pressing down, simply reverse the thin green and blue wires on the window switch.

Thank you so much for sharing this tip! The guy in the Pro shop tried every tool he had for the various shoes they sell but none of them worked. This tip worked. I had a bit of a fight though but I found that prising the edges up a bit with a screwdriver first made it easier to get a grip of it with the wire nippers. I need a day or so for my hand to recover from pushing the nippers in far enough to get a grip

Now if I can find a way to grind down a screw without any tools lol. Good idea tho

Thank you for sharing this information 🙏

Hey man just wanted to give you a shoutout on that Tacoma steering clunk fix video you did. It was super helpful and solved my problem on my 2008 Tacoma. Thank you so much for the simple solution that didn’t cost me a ton of money.

Thanks good job!

Good stuff, though the hind is a go to for ECW. You held your own, always awesome to see some Gaz SA342L action.

Gratulation for zastava m70..zastava is top for me❤ i am from serbia we have good Quality of guns😊😊😊

Horshoe pullers or nippers no problem

This is mis-named. It is NOT the trigger Disassembly and Reassembly, it is the Trigger Pack.

Works great!

What the hell was your secret for turning this down on a drill press? At the rate it's going with my file and the press at the highest speed, it would take approximately ten years to turn it down to a useful diameter.

Thank you 👍

Colt 1903 my very very nice gun Interesting gun His my favorite gun

My problem is trying to put new ones back in with little success

I used a screwdriver

My bad. I've Heat guned*

I've tried* not heard

I've heard gunned on high to slowly sweat it out, nope, steamed it, nope, boiling water. Nope. Oven cleaner yes, but most likely damages stock, does not wash out with water. All the above work a little the oven cleaner alot, but this method is the safest and I would say least damaging to the stock. Wish they dipped all those old riffles in boiling linseed oil instead

I use sizing wax always works don’ use to much you will have dimples they will fire form out poi has good brass Liberty Tree has brass and others

Worked for me! Thanks!

THANK YOU!

I have an 05 Tacoma 5 lugger. Base model. And I have a shaking under my steering wheel area. So I’m going to definitely take a look and I think the sound I’m having is coming from this area for sure. I thought it was a bearing. And it was not. The sound is still there. And I think it’s my steering rack or linkage like you mentioned.

Worked like a charm! Thx

Beauty!!

That Colt looks brand new.

THANK YOU!!! I thought I'd seriously screwed up. I fought with that thing and upped the ante on my swear usage until I'd had enough and figured that someone HAD to have made a video about this. After watching this, I had my X95 back together in a matter of minutes. Again, thank you!

Thanks for the video. Did you ever get it completely figured out? (Is your range open again, I hope?) I also reload 32ACP. I currently use Berrys 71 grain plated bullets. For powder I use Hodgdon Universal. The range between start and max loads is minuscule: 2.2 to 2.4 grains if memory serves me. I have not yet shot my reloads through an M70 because I am waiting for my RGUNS order to reach my local FFL. One of the first things I check before starting an actual run of reloading is the plunk test. Someone above mentioned that 32ACP headspaces on the case mouth, I believe. I will also check that by inserting a resized case with no bullet in it. What is interesting is that of the two brands of 32ACP brass that I have from shooting factory ammo, they have different case lengths, around 0.100” difference if I remember correctly. One is Aguila and the other is Fiocchi. When I was first reloading 32ACP, I would only use one brand of case per run because of that. I don’t remember hearing what your OAL was, by the way. I could see instantly that it was too long for the chamber, as you stated. When necessary, I will also insert a given bullet further into the case, but with caution, of course. I do the math and measure the powder charge height (on a case standing up on the bench) against the depth of the bullet into the case. I do this because I want to make sure that the powder is not compressed, as that, beyond just inserting a bullet deeper, is what really increases case pressure, and could be quite dangerous. For that reason, you may want to consider a denser powder: a couple people recommended Red Dot above. As I said, I use Hodgdon Universal. So if you see this comment and have a moment, I would definitely be interested in hearing where you are at with reloading for the M70. And beyond the nuances of reloading 32ACP, someone above mentioned replacing that recoil spring, which certainly affects feeding issues. Thanks again for the detailed video!

O amigo eres genial.. Estuve viendo tu video hoy, y acabo de aser la pratica y todo salió perfecto. ya dije adios al ruido de mi dirección gracias

Worked for me! Thanks!

I guess I’ve just been lucky but I have never had to go to that extent to remove any spikes. Of course ideally you don’t leave them in so long that they become difficult to remove. But I just changed out the spikes on a pair of Foot Joys where they were worn completely down to the sole of the shoe, but still was able to remove them with the spike wrench. I did have to clean the dirt out of the holes, but otherwise they were pretty easy to remove. Another video I watched suggested using a drill with a drill bit the same size as the holes.

Thank you!

Just did mine, I put zip ties all around and the clunky noise and play went away. Thanks for the video.

ya lo implemente apesar que arregle mi cremallera se seguia escuchando el clunk y despues de esto se acabo el ruido gracias compa

Good on you man ! Before I changed the sway bar bushings , changed drag link . The sound still continues . I will try this one if it applies to mine . I checked the steering shaft there is a bit of shake there although the universal joint looks good . I am excited to try this one ! Thanks any way !

Is it something that can cause wandering in the steering as well..I'm having that on my 08 Example ..having to correct steer left to right alot driving down a straight road very annoying

Dude... Thank you... I was so irritated for about 10 minutes

My problem is that the Fast Twist recesses are all loose between the interlayers of the sole of the shoes. You have difficulty removing the cleats because the housings rotate with the cleat. Similar when you you screw them back in. I've tried an adhesive called Stormsure which is great for most shoe repairs where flexibility and waterproofness needs to be maintained but it doesn't work with torsion. I dribbled the glue around the edges of the Fast Twist housings and let it cure. When I tried to screw the cleats back, even only starting them by hand and a quarter turn to secure, the adhesive failed. I'm looking for a Plan B. If anyone can come up with anything I'd be interested.

Good stuff🤙🤙

I made a bushings out of a thin silicone mat until I can find a bushing to replace it.

Thanks man, I had one really stuck. No rubber left. Dug that into the plastic base and it popped right out.

Thanks for the tip!