Відео

That's too bad this seems to be missing info I need. My S14 SR20 has two extra vac nipples comming out the bottom of the TB (one of them capped off) but I couldn't spot them on yours, maybe S15 didn't have them? Also I beleive the WG line came off the hotpipe on the turbo side. Some of these lines should be for EVAP canister (again, at least for the S14).

A video like this is gold for future enthusiasts doing a T28 upgrade or wanting to refresh their lines. One thing I will say is I wish you had put the specs of the fittings in text on the video so theres no confusion and or it can act as a form of verification. I know url(s) typically die after a couple of years, but would be extremely helpful for each item so a viewer can purchase exactly the same parts. Thanks

You rockstar!!! That video is a gift to the Sr20 community, really appreciated mate 🙏 subscribing was a no brainier.. trying to fix mine, heats up way to fast and and then doesn’t start when hot, maybe a leaking injector let’s see.. thanks again for the video 🙏 quick question if you have the time where does the valve cover top Center left breather pipe connect on an NA non turbo model, I have seen it just with a pipe pointing downward but I’m guessing that should create a huge vacuum leak, does it go in the intake pipe before the throttle body and after the MAF? And shouldn’t that bring oil to my already oily intake? 😅

This is helpful thanks for this video!

Should you drain coolant before taking off the intake manifold? Upper and lower half, or can you just unplug the hoses and plug them. Cheers!

спасибо за понятный акцент и четкую речь)

Great video soo helpful nice to see a very detailed video

Thanks for the videos! I just realized that I have too many useless little hoses everywhere. Maybe the old EGR hose and more. I need to watch the video better, think better and learn English better. I believe that thanks to you I can find out why my engine is heating up too quickly

Thank you it did help me out! It's been a few years for me.

Thanks for this video, I sprung a leak on the oil filter turns out it's possibly the hoses under the intake manifold. At least I know which hoses I need to change.

Your knock sensor is not oriented like the OEM mount? How to check that it is working correctly?

At 13:48 What’s the black and red connector between intake manifold side under cylinder between 2 and 3 called? Ive tried looking it up but can’t find anything sadly.

Does it make a difference where the inlet enters through the fuel rail? Like having the inlet closer to cylinder 4 or 1? Also do you prefer the fpr to be before or after the inlet?

Honestly ion paper it seems simple but coming from us market like n/a v8s this looks like so much clutter!! So many hose to hardline fittings, etc. Is there a kit that "declutters" or simplifies all the lines going everywhere?. I might be buying an s15 this summer. Sr20dets seem like such a mess to work on.

Which is the turbo coolant feed and return ? Thanks

Great video really informative mate! Hopefully you can help me a little more, I recently bought an s14 and the previous owner capped 2 lines off that I believe were a part of the recirculation valve system! But I have no idea if they should be connected to anything now, one of the lines is the blow off valves line you referenced in your video which is currently capped. The other line next to it is connected to the carbon canister which I think has a split which also runs to the waste gate control solenoid valve. The other line that’s blocked off I am not sure where it’s coming from atm but it is larger? I currently have no blow off value but want to fit one to avoid turbo stall/flutter

Very interesting videos and well explained. Thank you for sharing your experience!

This is going to come in handy. Picked up a notchtop that we are putting into a 240sx and there are no cooling lines and no intake so I have a huge a task ahead of me :(

very cool man thanks for the break down

That's one way to do it. Not the smartest one, but got the job done. Orientation marks on the axle are all unnecessary, it does not matter it if is put back together the same way it came out as long as all circlips etc are where they need to be. What matters however is to put marks on the shock, knuckle and one of the strut bolts. One of them is concentric, once you get it out, you will see it is funny in the centre, it is to adjust Camber of the wheel. So it is essential to put it back together how it came out or the geometry of the wheel will be out. I don't remove shock, but rather undo the stabilizer bar, tie rod and lower control arm. But this way may not be possible in some locations that rust heavily. I may need to replace mine, bcs subaru unit is much better than napa. Replaced whole axle two years ago, bcs my boots popped on both front outer joints, but is clicking this time, so I may just repair my subaru units boots instead and put them both back in since I did not discard those. Thank you for the video, gave me the idea what to expect for tools needed etc.

Any videos of it running after the intake install

👍

Witch are feed and water return

Awesome detail, thank-you muchly

Great video, what size hose do you need for the coolant lines?

is it really M12 x 1.5 ?? Isnt it M12 X 1.25 ?

That made life so much easier. Thank you 😊 FMIC manifold is the same

Thank you! You showed me every place I was goofing up on. Can’t wait to correct my mistakes in the morning!

Subbed on this cant wait for part 2 i like how realistic your build is too also with the timeline these 10min builds have people thinkng your just sat in your garage till the project is done 😂

just found your YT and love your vids. Im an ME and you givem me ME vibes lol. Quick question, why the inline thermostat?

Following

Perfect timing for me as I look to make my first harness on my Kouki. What was the name of the quick connect you used at the firewall for the engine harness? do you happen to know if it has enough pins for a more 'stock' sr20 offering without the TB? Also having not watched the rest of the series yet, do you also plan to quick release the accessories harness? deffo want to do this to mine! Great video look forward to binge watching the rest tomorrow

Is this model similar to the SR18DE?

Hey brain! Great video and really helpful I have myself a 2001 subaru legacy gt wagon aswell and my passenger side cv is torn do you happen to have the part number for that guy?

This helps more than you know👍👍👍

My only issue is. Could you not use the center feed to feed injectors and then side feed for the return. To save having fuel pipes on top. That would keep pressure ?. Would look alote nicer too. And each injector would get good pressure and as for using 1000cc injectors. Youre not getting the best out of the injector they will be running half tilt. 500cc or 750cc ? Jist wondering as from wat i though better duty on the injectors wen near maxed out compared to not even getting full flow out of them if you get wat i meen.

Just about to buy 1 of these the short runners worry me but worth a try by looks of it

Thanks very helpful. Just picked up my first SR which was built, set in the car and sat. So I’m now trying to figure out all the plumbing and what’s there and what can be simplified if at all possible. Thanks again

Awesome video and not boring at all!!! Very informative and detailed , building my sr and this has helped big time . Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work ! Subbed :)❤

Bought a completely taken apart swap recently and this video was a godsend. thank you!

This video helpt me alot <3 on my RHD S14in

thanks for the vid, i wonder if those stock intake support brackets are necessary or i can delete them? i hate unnecessary components but i also don’t want to delete anything i need lol

Great vid

Turbo cooling hoses to the block and water neck, can it be the opposite way and does it effect the heating and cooling of the radiator/ engine Appreciate your answer…..

Thank you for the video! I have a question, what will happen if u flipped the water hoses … Block <>water neck?

I am thinking of also building a custom harness for my s14 kouki. Love the idea of having a quick connect at the firewall. At the moment I'm busy with prepping my engine bay for a repaint. It was such a pain in the ass to pull the harnesses trough the firewall

Thanks dude!

Are you going to run EMAP? Not sure if the link can do that . Would be cool

What is the torque spec installing the M14 -6 adapter to the water neck? Thanks!

My water temp sensor where there are 2 connectors one is broken the one that clips into the metal tab how can I fix it