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K&J's Comfort Inc.
Приєднався 15 кві 2018
Ductless Mini Split Installation
Daikin vs. Mitsubishi Ductless Mini-Split Installation
I apologize in advance for the audio in the beginning, we were using a new microphone setup. Overall I was happy with the outcome but it does need some tweaking to dial it in perfectly.
Rectorseal 97705 Mighty Bracket Mini-Split Support Tool
amzn.to/3jNZOlo
Rectorseal 97220 Flaretite Pipe Flaring Seal, Purple
amzn.to/3309hAr
Line-Hide used to cover the line-set
accoverguard.com/products/
I apologize in advance for the audio in the beginning, we were using a new microphone setup. Overall I was happy with the outcome but it does need some tweaking to dial it in perfectly.
Rectorseal 97705 Mighty Bracket Mini-Split Support Tool
amzn.to/3jNZOlo
Rectorseal 97220 Flaretite Pipe Flaring Seal, Purple
amzn.to/3309hAr
Line-Hide used to cover the line-set
accoverguard.com/products/
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Відео
Air-Purger Replacement
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In this video I show how to replace your old air-purger with a new one. Amtrol Air-Purger amzn.to/2rijyn9 Spirovent amzn.to/2jlehaJ Milwaukee USB Rover amzn.to/2qVmea2 Milwaukee Screwdriver Set amzn.to/2JkBKUd Milwaukee ProPress amzn.to/2HEhNLS Milwaukee Cheater Pipe Wrench amzn.to/2Kpq5F4 Ridgid Pipe Wrench amzn.to/2KqtvHG Milwaukee Open-Ended Adjustable Wrench amzn.to/2KpFKnU Vise-Grip Pliers...
4.16.18 First day showing what it is I do....
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In this video I show how to replace a target wall on a Peerless boiler Milwaukee USB Rover amzn.to/2qVmea2 Milwaukee Screwdriver Set amzn.to/2JkBKUd Peerless Boiler Chamber Kit amzn.to/2Hq46Qv Knarly Carl ua-cam.com/channels/PdnQBqWrtVDemOsWX3dshQ.html Our Website www.kjcomfort.com
The head shown at 1:57 looks like it is too close to the ceiling on the right. How are you supposed to open up the unit and clean the filters etc.?
This unit was put in approximately 4 years ago, we have been back every year for cleanings and have not run into this being an issue.
If you remove a spirovent and install an air scoop,that is going backwards.
great video... thanks for sharing.
THE LEFT SIDE OF THE AIR PURGE SCOOP WHERE YOU CUT THE PIPE , IT JUST PUSHES IN TO THE SCOOP NO SOLDERING OR SEALING ?????
Thanx for the boiler system vent lesson, browsing around to various UA-cam clips and learning lots. Looks like great work, subscribed.👍
Great video I replaced my air vent valve today with your help. Nice job.
Doing replacement on the expansiontank don't need to put air in?
The ProPress is all the rage due to the time it saves. The only time I care about is how long my system lasts. I don't like the distortion in the copper from the press. It's setting up stress points in the copper, which may already be stressed from age. Other than that, just learned from you that my Sawzall is a plumbing tool. Good video !
Do you have to shut off the power to the unit before doing this?
You replaced an air separator with an air scoop, you need 18 inches of pipe before it.
What is water heater installation
Here in Europe almost all outdoor units are mounted on the wall. I have 2 Daikin 22K btu outdoor units (FTXF60), mounted on the brick wall of my bedroom and I can’t hear them. You just need to install them how manufacturer says (minimum pipe lenght) and you will be fine.
Love ball valves wasn't the air scoop replaced better than new one 10 year retired oil man from Long Island like the way you work
You should of positioned the indoor units centrally to the window and high ceiling. Looks rubbish as is
Thank you for the input. I was looking for your install videos to see how you do it but I couldn’t find any…
NO NO NO tape or dope NEVER both. I like to use the blue monster and then wipe excess off after threading it on. Never use both.
tape or thread sealant never both
You never showed how the left side of the perger was attached did you solder it
LMAO I was thinking the same thing I never seen it being soldered
He crimped it with the battery powered crimp tool.
The spirovent is a much better product that air scoop is almost useless in that location.
Hi i recently did service to my water floor heating radiant I changed the expansion tank the pressure vale changed the Honeywell zones the zones are calling and the pressure gauge stays just 2 line above the 20 and staying there and i did flashed the water from all zone lots of dark water came out and i left it to open tell water color got back to normal but the issue i have is the first floor which got 2 zone both zone got warmed but the upstairs only get to 10 degree does not matter if i leave the tramontane all the way to the end or levee it on 20 so what cold be wrong what do u suggest please Thanks
U didn't explain the precharge for expansion tank requirements
Check your copper line sets that white ISO POLAR insulation is causing an acidic climate when wet that creates pin holes in the copper. I pulled out a run and put up a video of it leaking through little pin holes over a 15 ft span. Still have another 160 Ft to pull out and the suppliers and manufacturers are trying to hide the failure and pass costs on to you.
Hey all my radiators seem to be working except for two of them. I find this strange since it’s a circuit.
Hi Alex, although it’s a circuit air gets trapped at the top of radiator or you could have what’s called mono flow tees in your system which are working improperly. I would have a service tech come over and take a look.
What was wrong with The Purge tank
LWCO and 10 psi ? Is that device a pressure stat or a LWCO? A LWCO looks for water and has no pressure function so I don't follow your comment on that.
You said these have to be replaced often? Mine is 15 years or more. Is it possible to last that long?
Mine is also 15 years old. They don't have to be routinely replaced.
Good video, but you should call the parts by its proper name no this, if I want to buy the part now I don't know what to ask for
Thank you! It was one of our first videos so we learned a lot from it. Unfortunately I can’t change it now but our new ones we make I try to be more precise.
Not helpful. Explain what "this, this, and this" is
How do you know what pis to set the expansion tank at?
That was great, thx! 😎
Thinking of the Daikin Emura. Any caveats?
Do you want to use it for heat? Feel free to call me. 518-650-2000
We have a Daikin 2 ton mini-split heat pump. We live on the water in SC and our foundation is elevated so our house floor is always cold in the winter. The Daikin unit made our place so comfortable in winter and summer. The heat pump is awesome, works down to below freezing, the few days of the year that happens. When we moved here we had a Trane heat pump which was a horrible heater, blew out cold ducted air for hours. It was so bad I stopped using it and bought electric resistance floor heaters. I would urge you not to oversize though, it causes excess humidity because the unit is up to temp too quickly. We have HVAC problems with contractors here, they all want to charge double to put in a system. I am learning to install and service them myself…
@@ericafors6039 Feel free to reach out if you have any questions/concerns. 518-650-2000
Check your blower wheel. Turn it off and manually open up the front louver. Shine a flashlight inside the unit and check the blower wheel. If it has anything on the blades of the blower wheel then it has to be cleaned. It's at this point where the differences become clear. Try removing that blower wheel to clean it. Good luck.
Daykin and mishibeeshi
Condenser should be on pump jacks
Can you reference the portion of the install manual that states that?
@@kevinrafferty9748 of course , these cards (former Marine and Martin) did not follow through and back up their claims
Really bad location for condensing unit, should have been located much higher elevation, right under first floor roof overhang!
Thank you for the input. The customer wanted that location due to snow fall issues coming from the way his roof is. He actually had an engineer tell us that was the safest location. We put in a lot of units and I understand the concern but in this situation my hands were tied. The customer had sent the photos to the manufacturer and the town for inspection so the location was pre-determined.
@@kevinrafferty9748 I am talking about the head pressure of condensing unit from the upper cassette!
@@MissionaryForMexico I'm not really sure what you're talking about. If you pull up the manual or talk to the company they will tell you how far away each unit can be including height. This video has been seen by some of the engineers and none of them have said there's anything wrong with location. If you send me some of your installs maybe I'll see what you've done to fix this issue you think we have.
@@kevinrafferty9748 You will more then likely learn after some time, of the installation, the strain on the condensing unit being from the location of upper cassette! I could be wrong, but what seen occur on a condensing unit when the cassette was four floors up, it even required chilling refergrint bottle just to be able to service proper amount!
@@MissionaryForMexico We install roughly 50 mini splits per season and have never had the issue your talking about. If you can please have a service tech from the manufacturer you've spoken to who has told you about this issue I will gladly take the call.
Same parent company as Amaña and Goodman owns Daikin. Mitsubishi is the premier Japanese company which is rated top manufacturer of these zoned systems. Here in the SW part of AZ, Mitsubishi has a leading edge for A/C and energy savings and durability
I'm from AZ and have a 5 zone Mitsubishi mini split on order. Been back ordered for two months. Wondering if Daikan was any better although I understand they are both top of the line.
You made a ride decision going with Mitsubishi. A lot of companies install ductless systems but you rarely hear them discuss servicing them. Every brand ductless system will require that the indoor system be cleaned and Daikin is by far the worst to service.
@@Rewind_Start_Over Perhaps the reason the Trane/American Standard joined forces with Mitsubishi to manufacture/sell mini split units. 🤑🤑
To be honest I really don't get hung up on who made what or where it comes from. I prefer Mitsubishi simple because out of all the manufactures Mitsubishi sucks the least. I've worked on Fujitsu, Daikin, LG, Mitsubishi, Sanyo, Mr.Cool, Carrier, Lennox and the only manufacturer that has actually taken the time to design their product to be taken apart and cleaned properly is Mitsubishi. Ductless indoor units have a common problem across the board. The blower wheels get funky. I've seen mold, dirt and whatnot and the only way to clean them is to remove the blower wheel, drain pan, and all the plastics. When I'm done it looks brand new. For anybody that has a ductless system regardless of the manufacturer and wants their system to perform better simple turn it off manually open up the front vane/louver and shine a flash light into the unit. You are looking for the big blower wheel in the rear. It spans the entire width of the indoor unit. Have a look at the blades of the blower wheel. Is it filthy? Maybe it's splitting black chucks out of it or it stopped moving air like it did when it was new. It needs to be cleaned.
Daikin is pioneer in airconditioning.
Good job , the only thing I would have done is repipe the feed water into the correct location , between the expansion tank and scoop valve
I don't get why people don't put a shutoff valve between the expansion tank and the system. Makes it a lot easier.
Or shut offs before and after circulator pumps and auto vents.
@@philipajarapoo7675 Why didn't you put a shutoff valve between the expansion tank and the system?
Very informative video. The only thing is your "we talked them into" makes it sound like the usual high pressure sales pitch. You shouldn't have to "talk them into" anything. The customer should choose the best system for their situation with your help. Thank you
Thank you. They were new to all of this and wanted to use another brand that we've seen many issues with over the past few years. I know where you're coming from and I think I just misworded it. I tell all of my customers I am anything but a salesman, in the end it's their inevitable decision and something I want them to be happy with for years to come.
@@kevinrafferty9748 Don’t sweat this stupid comment. Betty Smith is a Karen.
@@axelgiovanni1031 Mega-Karen
I like diy plumbing job around my house but these boiler related jobs i always call professional
Great video. I wish they had these when i was a homeowner
This chucklenead: 1. Did not use eye protection when using a sawzall to cut pipe 2. Just left wires dangling in his face instead of taping them neatly to the pipes. In computer building it's called cable management.
_Heating Boiler Air ScoopsBulk Air_ Separators & Air Purgers
You need at least 18" of straight pipe before the air separator for it to work properly.
Not many people have a 3500$ pro press....it would have been nice to see the old fashion way of soldering it...nice video tho...thanks....Use to use a pro press everyday at work..and it saved hours and hours of work and time...especially installing a new burner.
I saw that expansion tank is on the output hotwater side of the boiler Is that air tank be ok to take that much hot water with the plastic air bladder inside that tank ? That's the first I ever seen.
Absolutely. You'll see quite a bit of applications where this is acceptable. The tank has a Max temperature of 240 the max temp for a typical boiler is 200 but usually doesn't even exceed 180.
Could somebody explain to me why the pilot light of my heating boiler turns-off before reaching temperature set on aqua stat set at 180 degrees. The boiler has 3 gauge scales in one enclosure (rectangular to square shape) with lower one for temperature from 60-260 degrees, and upper scale with 2 sub-scales-one for ALTITUDE 0 (zero) true 115 and another one for pressure 0 (zero) true 50 PSI. This gauge DOES NOT HAVE any wires attached to it. When water temperature reaches about 165 degrees, the pressure reaches passed 30 PSI and gas valve shots down and at the same time shots the gas for pilot light. The heating system has 3 zone valves, all of them in open position (mechanically). Why does it shots down pilot light?
NO
You capped off the boiler manufacturers built-in air scoop on top of the boiler. Strike two. And you didn't install a valve underneath the new air vent you just installed for easy replacement of the air vent which only last a few seasons. Be careful next time installing the expansion tank because you may crack the air scoop. If you over tighten.
Valve under the air vent isn't necessary.
You removed the Spirovent which is a better product than than the antiquated air scoop. Why didn't you just replace the head on the Spirovent? The product has a 20 year warranty to the original owner. And you didn't install the air scoop with 18" of horizontal piping before it. Which makes your installation useless. I respectively disagree with your replacement of the Spirovent.
I was watching this video after my spirovent 1-1/2 inch was replaced it was 20 years old. I live in canada its hard to find the spare parts to replace this and it seems like mine was not worth fixing by replacing the head. I've heard older versions are a lot harder to replace? ended up replacing with a Calefactio one by our plumber. $800 as the calefactio itself was worth $300. I like to save money, but not sure if I could of really saved a lot by replacing the head. If it had a 20 year warranty how could they verify the purchase? hard to keep a receipt after 20 years haha.
Good video,I hope you don't mind me saying that you should have replaced that boiler drain valve while you were there changing the air scoop and the expansion tank.God bless you and yours and thank you for the video.
👍👍
great job