Відео

I wasn't planning on talking about the colors that much so it was off memory, glad I wasn't mistaken!

Glad you found it so!

It is a Kearney & Trecker model 2D rotary head mill, I actually have a video about this specific machine if you are interested. It is basically the analog predecessor to the modern CNC mills, just takes a lot of math and mental bandwidth to do similar processes. It is capable of almost any 3 dimensional shape and it was designed in the 1940s, pretty nifty bit of engineering to be sure!

Thanks for the idea but this engine family never had a distributor to begin with. It uses fully electronic engine controls with integrated coil packs over each bank of spark plugs for ignition.

Good question, originally these use a giant integrated coil pack for each bank that is about $500 used. I got this engine on it's own without any harness or ecu so it would be a couple grand minimum to cobble together a stand alone system from oem Mercedes components.

They are pretty much a turd in every regard but I got this for a steal and all the custom parts I'm making for it will transfer to the much improved M275 which is the eventual goal. They fixed almost all the issues and from what I've seen it is an all around better engine while being able to interchange a lot of external parts with this boat anchor M137. Think of this engine as basically a mockup unit that I don't mind getting dirty or leaving open for periods of time to fabricate stuff on it like this or exhaust later on for example.

Thanks for the kind words and welcome aboard, hope you continue to enjoy my content!

They do indeed but they are a part of the Mercedes engine controls(by Bosch I if memory serves) and are computer controlled. They would be every bit as hard to adapt since this is the next generation of V12 known as the M137 and has zero parts commonality with the M120. Then you would have to come up with some way to control them afterwards as well which is a whole new can of worms. Another factor is lack of serviceability, the parts for the early M120s are getting quite scarce whereas HEI components are cheap and ubiquitous.

The older v12’s that have distributors each distributor provided ignition for 6 cylinders. The m120 was actually two 6 cylinder engines with there own individual engine control system sharing a common crankshaft.

Thank you, really appreciate the kind words!!!

Thanks very much for the kind words, much appreciated!

Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks for the input, I really struggle with volume levels unfortunately. On my computer it all seems good in both the edit and even in the upload. Then if I play it on my phone the flaws become much more pronounced. I am still trying to figure out how best to get consistent audio so know that I'm not ignoring those issues, just not finding a cure yet. Generally tho it seems the music is always disproportionately loud so that's at least a starting point.

To quote the villain from 'Rescuers down Under', "I didn't make it all the way through the third grade for nothing!"

Thanks, happy to be making some progress videos again! Thanks for sticking around!!

Thanks much, will do!

I talked to Haltech quite a bit about controls for this engine, really nice and smart guys there. They indeed make a controller that will run this and I guess I misspoke when I said nobody made off the shelf ecu's for a V12. I was more referencing the lack of plug and play setups like what are available for most American V8 engines like the Coyote, LS, or Mopar hemis where you can buy the kit ready to go with all the correct sensor connections and wiring lengths.

@@zwickauracingworks Are you running the engine on carburetors then? Because having wired a few standalones from scratch on oddball applications, I can say that wiring and configuring the sensors is certainly less work than making those distributors fit. Most any standalone could run that V12 in waste spark with Ford EDIS or GM V6 coilpacks.

I could be wrong but if I remember correctly, the guys at Haltech advised against those because they lack internal igniters which complicates the system but I could be mistaken. You can also just run LS coils that have 2 paired per trigger wire that act in the same manner for waste spark and they have integral igniters if memory serves. At this point, I plan on running either a pair of Weber DCOE's or possibly a standalone 4150 carb style efi system mounted horizontally on the inlet of a blower. Also as I mentioned in the video, cost is a factor for me here. The ECU plus all the needed sensors, injectors, and wiring are in the neighborhood of 4-5x the cost of this setup even with the standalone efi like a Holley Sniper or similar.

It wouldn't be that hard to do, it would probably have to be a mail in service though because every engine family is different. They mark the center of the cam and give the depth measurement and everything else I can do remotely lol!

@@zwickauracingworks this could make it possible to run all kinds of modern engines if you think about it.

@@zwickauracingworks what are you thinking for the intake setup? Are you going to try to carb it?

Currently pondering final intake setup, possibly adding a supercharger that mimics the look/function of the original V16 from 1934-37. It's mounted on the rear above the bellhousing in a vertical orientation so I'm thinking possibly doing a similar setup with an Eaton M112 with either a pair of drawthrough Weber DCOE's or maybe a standalone efi like a Holley Sniper or FiTech unit.

I absolutely love it and it was definitely a bucket list item for me since I was pretty young. Keep your eyes peeled on Marketplace and hopefully you can snag one for a great price like I did!

I am also curious, I plan on hopefully going to some of the drag n drive events like Drag Week or Rocky Mountain Race Week which would really benefit from some slicks hooking up. That will definitely stress the trans more even with the extreme low weight. The V12 will also make a substantial torque figure but I don't think it will be that bad considering it's only 5.5L iirc. We'll both have to wait and see, unfortunately.

You can use the same tech to build any boat you can get plans for.

Glad to hear you enjoyed and also get to have fun with one of these beauties! I haven't messed with zeroing the spindle, it has 2 gibs you have to adjust to alter it and it's close as is. I haven't measured runout yet but that may be a future project if I need to get into altering some really precise bolt patterns on preexisting flanges or something similar. This one even has it written in sharpie on the head offset dial housing(probably decades ago) that you have to zero the spindle with the indicator on the 30 taper itself, not a toolholder.

Fantastic to hear that it has useful info for you! A large portion of why I make any videos is to try and help spread information and knowledge, both sending it out and getting it back via comments here.

I will hopefully be taking apart a Type 3 beam soon and will try to get some footage of removing them on it, they are basically the same process to remove as the Type 1 shown here.

Didn't know that when I ordered this, it was the only one I had seen offered. Agree the price is way high especially considering the quality(or lack thereof tbh)

It's a huge amount of work to disassemble it and get all the old paint off to do it right, but the end result is well worth it in my opinion. Glad you liked the vid and hopefully you get lots of years of service out of your awesome machine!

Thank you! Cheers!

Progress is slow but hopefully new stuff coming out again soon!

That is an absolute bummer! I had my eyes on this one for awhile and luckily I managed to snag it and get it home before anyone else realized how rare and unique it is!

Research is the name of the game for a replica!

Thank you! Cheers!

Appreciate the kind words!

I like it but I am definitely biased haha

More to come soon, hopefully!

I thought so because I love watching Cutting Edge Engineering and you see him using US fasteners and such when necessary on repairs.

They are a rare find unfortunately but they pop up on ebay occasionally. I also think they are one of the most amazing mills ever produced by anyone, K&T spared no expense developing or building them to be sure!!

@@zwickauracingworks 100%. I would only be so lucky if someone like you or Keith from vintage machinery sold theirs.

He has a tremendous amount of awesome machinery and his website is where I was able to find so much documentation on this one. There is a huge library there that has everything from manuals to sales brochures. I'm located in the northwestern USA.

Thanks for the kind words and it sounds like you have some awesome machines there! I am currently editing the lathe video and it will hopefully be up this week. The reason I went with the rotary converter is because I can use it for both machines without needing separate VFDs for each one.

It's only surpassed by the differential friction modifier stuff in the tiny bottle, the smell of that stuff was designed by satan himself haha!!

Definitely would've been nice to have even a minor insight on assembly!

Everyone's favorite unluckiest/most corrupt country ;)

I do understand your complaints but let me offer counterpoints; Everything is built incredibly overkill so repairs are not common, I've broken a couple bolts on one component from misuse and was easily repaired. They are complex but large so it's not like disassembling a rolex, just keep track of your parts. Mine has the standard NMTB 30 taper spindle so tooling is readily available, I should have mentioned that most do have a K&T specific toolholder. Water soluble oil is actually rust preventive, especially if you only use distilled water (which I do). If it is in the reservoir it's no issue and if it is some that has spilled on bare metal the water simply evaporates leaving the oil portion of the coolant as a rust barrier. I will never use oil because of the absolute nightmare it is to clean out of the sump once it sits and turns to mud. It's had water in it over a year now with zero rust issues even in the sump. Thanks for watching and the input!

@@zwickauracingworks Not complaints, just a difference of opinion. A good friend of mine worked for K&T for 30 years. He and I have had quite a few discussions about this machine in particular. The parts are scarce, since they didn't make very many of these machines, at least compared to the others. Some. of our conversations revolved around how complex and intricate the rotary head is (pun intended). There are something like 100+ ball bearings in there and they are free floating. The torque specs are exacting. As far as the cutting oil, you do what you want, if it works for you. But I have it on great authority that these machines were intended to be used with oil and not water of any kind, distilled or not. Distilled water can still create rust. It's a cool machine. But I stand by my opinion that this is NOT the idea hobbyist machine. The Bridgeport is first on that list, followed by a K&T 2HL or 2H horizontal mill with a universal milling head as a very close second.

Parts are definitely scarce but are also not prone to breakage. These were made for production use and to be durable in that role, for a home or job shop mine will likely never get enough use to even need to zero the rotary head(it has gibs on both sides that you have to run in and out to maintain spindle center while tightening the ways, probably a nigthmare to adjust). A bridgeport is definitely more broadly capable, I just feel for the cost/benefit ratio lies with the 2D. Just a difference of opinion as you said and I always enjoy reading well thought out responses like yours. I do wish there were a way to source some of the extra attachments for this though, the 90* head and cherrying attachment would be phenomenal to have as well as the pto drive system that ran off the table gearbox to run stuff like rotary tables or dividing heads.

I mean almost every manual machine you get these days has no parts availability. On a machine tool like this you probably won't ever have to fuss with much other than maybe a bronze nut, and maybe some clutch adjustments. All the bearings are Timken, so you can get replacements Any other part you could need you can knock out with a lathe.

@@procyonia3654 Inaccurate on several accounts. Every part is made TODAY for a Bridgeport Series 1 machine. Every single part. Also, a very good friend of mine worked for K&T for 30 years as a machine rebuilder. There are pieces of that machine, that if there is an issue with it, you're screwed. He has a room full of parts for various K&T machines. What just a few pieces are worth, I can buy a whole Bridgeport for.

As far as machinery goes, the bigger the more beautiful!!

Thanks, it was the most accurate way I could think of that didn't involve somebody else with a CNC machine. Thanks for joining, I'll finally be posting some new videos soon!

It will definitely be recorded, been working with the guys at Haltech on setting up a standalone ECU.

Been absolutely slammed with work and other stuff but I have new videos coming soon! Thanks for being so patient!!!

Is crownwheel what is known as the ring gear in US parlance? It is fairly tiny even with the bulge below the rest of the case to be sure!

@@zwickauracingworks Yup, ring gear