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It is very chunky!

I don't know! Sorry I am not able to help, I'm not sure where you would be able to get it.. even in Canada!

Congrats!!!!!

Thanks so much for the encouragement! Really appreciate it. Colin

Yeah, I think you are right it is pretty bare without the two-tone color scheme.

Got one last month! Thanks - confirms that getting one was the right thing to do! Cheers Colin

I don't know! It is very common for caseback screws to be in the 1.4mm, 1.5mm or 1.6mm size though. Even if you have only a 4 piece screwdriver assortment, one of them will definitely be one of the sizes I listed. If in doubt (to confirm before you order screwdrivers) you can always measure the diameter of the screw head with a pair of calipers.

@@watchoffthecuff Thanks for the advice! What is the correct marking for these screwdrivers (TW0-TW6 Tri-Wing)?

Hold it!!! Lol. I just looked this watch up, you are right they are NOT standard screws. The reason is that these radio controlled Citizens are not field serviceable that I know of. Even if you did open it you won't be able to get a replacement capacitor... Is that the issue? I personally have a screwdriver that could probably open this in a specialist screwdriver set, but even for myself if one came in I would advise the customer to send to Citizen.

@@watchoffthecuff I can buy a capacitor. They are sold on open sale and can be ordered from Japan. The problem is how to open this watch? ... ))

@@alexsharov9255 you will be stuck trying to find the correct screwdriver! I'm just lucky that I have one in a crazy set I have (at least I think do, it's three pointed, but may not be the right size!)

Thank you, very appreciated! 🙏🏼 Cheers, Colin

Brilliant! Glad it helped! Cheers, Colin

Thanks for watching!!!!! 🙏 Cheers, Colin

These bracelets are not infinitely adjustable, they are designed to be indexed at intervals, meaning the clasp will only close every 5 to 7 mm or so along the length of the band. Move the clasp either slightly one way or the other and the inner part will all of a sudden be able to close. There are often indents in the bracelet band that allows it to close the right way, but they are subtle and you won't notice them unless you look for them!

Yes, let me see if I can make a short video very soon!

Awesome!

That's interesting, I don't know either.... I haven't been following the Tudor pricing for a while now.

Watch cases made either one way or the other, it is either a screw back or a press fit. If you have screwed on a case back and it looks like it still needs to be pressed in something is not right! You may have cross threaded it or it is sitting correctly in the watch case, best to unscrew the caseback and carefully try again! Cheers, Colin

@@watchoffthecuff Thanks for taking time to respond. Much appreciated. So the final press @14:50 is to press the bezel in?

Oh I see. No, it is a fancy caseback opening tool for screw back cases. I am not "pressing" it together, the tool is actually rotating the caseback to close it, although I press down it is only so the two teeth of the rotating portion of the tool securely engages with the notches in the caseback!

@ Got it. Thank you so much for your kind attention. 👍👍

I'm trying to have all the tools! Thanks! Colin

Thank you for the nice feedback. I think just about every other video I have done has been after I have mastered something and done it sometimes hundreds of times already for customers. I will check out the W.R. Smith video! Great advice - I do think in retrospect that the steel I used was hardened, so I will either soften it first, or more likely do exactly as you suggest use brass... I also have some unhardened steel that I used to make a pair of hand levers. Anyway, thanks for the encouragement and for seeing the video in the light that it was intended - to show people that some of this stuff is difficult and that there is a process of trial and error, disappointments and triumphs! I will have to do a part 3 showing me taking your advice and getting better results. (well HOPEFULLY better results) Thank you! Colin

I think I show it in this video... Try and find silicon 7 grease for watchmakers. It is quite thick and won't run and migrate to other parts. I think I show some in another video about greasing gaskets as well. Are you in Canada? If so I can see about sourcing some, it's probably time I added this to my store anyway. I do currently sell a gasket greaser that uses silicon 7 in my store.

You are welcome! I wonder why it isn't charging very well and/or the caps are lasting? Very interesting... And annoying!

I'm thrilled you found it helpful! Thanks!

Nice!

Hahaha, thank you very much. 🙏

I think this one was a CR10125. I can't confirm as I don't have the watch in my shop anymore, I made this video a long time ago! Cheers, Colin

You are very welcome! I'm glad it was helpful! Cheers, Colin

Great idea! Thank you!

Great advice thank you! You are right I was probably not doing myself any favours by being hesitant! Thanks! Cheers, Colin

Yes, I do have some brass stock... But I had lots and LOTS of steel stock, so I didn't feel like I was wasting anything. Looking back that was a mistake. I will have to try again with some brass stock! Stay tuned! Hahaha

Thank you! I will choke up on the collet to remove flex! Great, great advice. The rod may be pre-hardened as it was bought as pivot wire, but it seems not right to have the pivot wire pre-hardened so to make it difficult to work on. As always, thanks for the insight and great advice! Appreciate the help, it's always a risk to just "put it out there", you can get backlash instead of support! Anyway, can't tell you how much I appreciate the advice! Cheers, Colin

@@watchoffthecuff Glad to try and help. Yeah, I'm not sure how hard that pivot wire is. I'm leaning toward the graver being soft. Maybe he only used the graver on brass. I'll second what the other person said. Get some brass to practice on. You can refine your tool sharpening/shaping techniques because just about anything will cut the brass. Then maybe get a known quality graver for going back to steel.

Again, great, great advice, I will order a new graver ASAP!

Hahahaha. Right on!

Yes! Me too. Trying to decide on a practical first project to attempt on this thing! Super Pumped! Lol

Amazing! Super glad it helped you out! Cheers, Colin

Sooooo true!

Amazing, thank you so much for the info. I originally thought that the felt like stuff that was in the oiler was there just ot keep dust and debris from getting in there (since the oiler cover was broken) - I think you are right, the previous owner was probably using it as a wick! Brilliant and thanks for the info! Also, THANK YOU for the suggestion to use glue instead of trying to melt the ends together - of course! - makes perfect sense. The Loctite 438 is a great tip also - I will use that when I'm ready to fit the new belt. Cant thank you enough for the comments and insight! - Super helpful!!!!!

Awesome!!!!!!

I use a Bergeon 6400 crystal lift for acrylic crystals, and have used it with both types, tension ring or no tension ring. I did a video showing it a while back, but the video did have some focus issues and a lot of it is blurry! ua-cam.com/video/pjHlBZFUDQ0/v-deo.htmlsi=VMMdBGu5FvWXfFbN

I'm thrilled! So glad it helped! Cheers, Colin

Glad it helped!!!!!

Happy New Year! I am so excited to get this lathe up and running!!!! Lol. Probably the number one thing from the equipment side of things that I'm looking forward to right now.

I have no problem believing you. An 8mm is number 1 on my tool wishlist as amateur repairer. Fantastic you found one in the wild! Always nice to see video's how you clean him up and hook up the engine etc. Very useful for when we hit the jackpot 😜

You are welcome! Cheers, Colin

This one: watchoffthecuff.com/products/economy-crystal-and-case-press The press itself is cheap, but the dies are really good, can be used in other standard presses if you upgrade later, also the die set has a great range of sizes.

Awesome! Good luck! Cheers, Colin

There is no standard, they are all over the place!

There are a number of movement sellers in North American and Europe. Once you get the calibre number off the movement (essentially the part number) you also usually for a quartz movement need to remove the dial and hands and measure the hour wheel (gear that connects to the hour hand), so you can purchase the correct height for the hands. They do this to accommodate different dial thicknesses.

Awesome!

Oh good! Sometimes they fly away and are gone forever! Lol

The battery is a 321, I use the Renata brand in my shop. Cheers! Colin