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Should be left to loosen, right to tighten. It’s like that on almost every bike. If your having trouble, you’ll need an impact, and possibly some heat

@@wideopenmoto obrigado

Whats M1?

Of course a press would be great in this situation, which I do have. But your average do it yourself person probably doesn’t. And in this case this would be the best way. Done hundreds of bearings this way and never once had an issue installing or down the road after hard use.

I’ll he honest I don’t remember 100%, but I don’t think that is required. But likely if the high beam isn’t working, it’s your bulb, or the high beam fuse. Pretty easy fix…

Lots of feathering the clutch and light braking.

You’ll do great dude! Just don’t over think the test, and don’t worry about failing, you can always take it again.

Thanks I currently have my bike permit with 19 hours on it for 605 miles. I currently need to do my first tuneup in which I wish I could give it myself but I’m not that confident I’m a baby learning 200.Duke regret buying the bike, but for now I will do in regards to the test and get service and anxious and I can’t concentrate properly until I’m fully relaxed. I watched a bunch of videos and basically just looks like they’re gonna check my signals my switches, and then make me drive straight line, slow speed, more faster, speed without going out of the lines and without falling and then it looks like counterclockwise twice or swerve between the cones and then come counterclockwise. Come back in the line then it looks like they have me go back in the lines opposite direction twice and then come straight back out, but I’m going to San Isidro DMV tomorrow because the DMV is completely packed and I never been to San Isidro, I will try to drive tonight just to see what it looks like

Yes, another tip, make sure to follow the directions they give you, if you are unclear ask them to repeat. Especially when going in and out of the cones.

Ok

This was well worth it, the fact that the bike feels that much more stable at speeds is priceless. On that note, I’m a dealer for GPR so if you are anyone else wants a great deal on one, please reach out.

@@wideopenmoto I'm a PORG. {poor old retired guy) I complain about what a 73 yr old should. That is, Do I still have food money left over? I think 200 to 250 bucks and they would still make a buck,

Hey no i dont have a video yet for that. Next ones that comes in i will make it.

In an emergency I would say you can, for the long term I would not use a different brand master link. The dimensions can be different and ultimately lead to a failure.

In an emergency I would say you can, for the long term I would not use a different brand master link. The dimensions can be different and ultimately lead to a failure.

Hillcrest

Thanks for the input. I’ll try to get some diagnostic videos out soon. But your bike, My suggestion is to take apart and start inspecting everything.

Need to make sure it’s meshed with the gears behind. Something isn’t sitting all the way down.

Have to check your service manual for your bike model/year. But should be 73ft lbs

I don’t think there is a measurement for the clearance in each side, what I do is use a feeler gauge to center the crank between the cases.

I always replace all the bearings, if it’s not shifting smooth there is another issue

Cranks eventually go bad, no matter how hard or soft you ride a bike, they will eventually just give way. I rebuild about 20-30 motors a year with locked up cranks.

@@wideopenmoto i.m7st have been luck 20 yrs of 2strokes never touched bottom end on any.of my 7 dirtbikes

Not 100% sure on the exact measurements, but I would say about 20 feet

12 ft

Yes the process should be the same, but I can’t confirm the clearances are the same. Should be located on the bike or in the manual.

100% need a different tune. You can get the 883 ECM tuned with a map, or buy an ECM from a 1200. Or get a fuelpak.

Can you? Sure! Would I suggest it… NO! You’re only saving yourself a small amount of money vs the time it takes to completely disassemble the engine. Just do it right the first time.

Think about doing the big bore and stoker kit to make it a 466cc. Makes way more power and is a cheaper option for parts.

@@wideopenmoto i put one of those 443cc ones off ebay and it exploded but i will look for the 466 more power never hurts.

It got switched around off camera when the cover was out on.

Gotcha, I’m waiting on a new lock washer for the clutch so I haven’t made it past that point, great video and I appreciate you taking the time to make it, helped a ton with my first rebuild 🤙

lol absolutely!

Any ideas would help, thank you

Start the video at 25:20, and follow directions exactly. That should set your clutch cable in the correct position. It sounds like your clutch I never fully closing and just slipping.

Can start it in gear too

So yes your clutch isn’t closing all the way.

Seals need to be installed on the case to prevent oil from entering the crank.

@wideopenmoto it hasnt entered magically, i dont understand it ide have to send you a picture/small clip

Feel free to head over to my website and you can get my contact info from there

Good attention to detail. It got put back in there off camera. That’s why you keep everything on the work bench, so if you have an extra part or bolt, you will see it!!