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Guillermo Acosta
Приєднався 24 жов 2014
How I attach snow-pusher to the bucket
Because of some questions, this is a short video to show how I attach the snow-pusher to the bucket of the tractor.
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Відео
Wooden Shingles
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Ease way to make wood singles using a sawmill: Strong flat board, wooden blocks , two one square inch sticks (hinge/handle) and one quarter inch stick (spacer to rise/lower handle end of block). When blocks of wood become too thin for cutting more shingles, just put some of them together, using water proof glue, to make a bigger block and use it again.
Home Made Snow Pusher/Plow, Rubber Blade #2 (action)
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Home Made Snow Pusher/Plow, Rubber Blade in action
Home Made Snow Pusher/Plow, Rubber Blade #1
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Wooden Snow pusher/plow using 1x12 boards, some 2x4, ¼ steel angle, 1x8" rubber blade, etc. January 10th 2016, not even a snowflake yet to test it. Stay tune up, I’ll show performance of device as soon as we have some of the white stuff.
What species of wood are you using for the shingles?
I used white oak, I think. But you can use any of these: black locust, honey locust, redwood, cedar, rock elm, yellow poplar, etc.
Very clever! I have a lot of Pine which I would like to make into roof shingles. I know with Canadian Cedar, Linseed oil is used to treat them. What do you use to treat your shingles? And what wood is this in the video ?
Great presentation
yep will be making one too
On the front of your snow plow there is a Black Rubber piece - could you tell us where you purchased that?
Hi Joe. I had the rubber blade from this place: www.snowengineeringdivision.com
I'm thinking you could kick the one side out (forward) a bit (Say 6-8 inches) and direct the snow to one side, too
Nice job, where did you get the Rubber cutting edge?
I had the rubber blade from this place: www.snowengineeringdivision.com/
Using a jig is such a great idea! Thanks for the inspiration! The wife wants me to try and do some flooring from our pine and this will definitely help out!
Thanks, Thomas, for the comment. This was my first time cutting shingles. I used 1/4" space and alternating the high of the head by 1/4 to 1/2 in order to get shingles 1/4 to 1/2 and or 1/2 to 1/4. You can play with head adjustment and or use thicker/thinner spacers to get the thickness you want. If you need some help with the set-up, feel free to contact me.
When I saw how much the jigs to do this cost, I wondered if this would work!
It did work for me very well.
Please post a picture of where you used these shingles
Nice job! thinking about getting one of these mills
im so happy i found this video. i wasnt even looking for it but its exactly what i need to do in a few months
Source for door shims and spacers too. The best jig I've seen so far.Thanks.
Awesome job! Love how you repurposed those lumbers. Simple, but effective. I'll have to jimmy one up for myself. Thanks for sharing.
After @ three seasons, the bottom front edge of the rubber blade becomes dull, and it doesn't clean very well. But, you still have three more edges (9 more years). Plus, after those nine years, use a tire grooving tool to make long and diagonal grooves. According to the way I see it, it looks like I don't have to buy another blade.
I like it! The only thing I'd change maybe is add longer wings so it could collect more snow, but yeh man brilliant!
Simple and effective .....I Like it.
3:15 starts to get to the point.
You just saved us all alot of money compared to what a commercial jig costs. Thanks for sharing your experience
Glad to hear that. You can get more shingles out of the wooden block by cutting them 1/8 to 1/4 thick. In this case, a 1/8 spacer should be used. Any question related to set up, feel free to contact me.
watched other videos of someone with bandsaw making lap siding with a jig from another saw manufacturer. I wonder if you could put can't blocks sideways from what you have with a jig for lap siding and do 10 to 12 at a time. never used a saw mill but just wondered
look for NORTHWEST SAWYER for what I was talking about
If the cutting path of the machine is wide enough, it can be done. But, never make the cut along the grain because the undesirable saw dust produced this way.
Probably a dumb question, but did you dry the blocks before cutting the shingles?
No, I didn't. In order to dry lumber, one year is needed for every inch thick. What I did was to soak shingles in a solution of used motor oil and diesel fuel (50/50)
@@guillo2388 Very nice, what type wood is this and where did you end up installing these on a home?
@@OptionsJunkie The wood used was white oak. I installed some of those shingle on the front short section of the roof of one of my sheds.
ABSOLUTEY AWSOME
And by the way this is the best setup I've seen. I also have the 126 and love it. Thanks so much for posting.
What did you use for the bottom and side boards for the frame? (2" X 12")
The horizontal board (bottom) is 1.5"X11". The vertical one (side support) is 2.5"X1.5".
@@guillo2388 Thank you so much. Getting ready to cut cedar for our house and your system will definitely work for me. Blessings and have a great 4th.
@@davidbauknight61 Before cutting the blocks out of the can, I suggest placing a mark on what is going to be the top face of each block. This way there will be good shingles right from the first pass. Also, the remaining of each block can be used to make additional blocks using waterproof glue.
@@guillo2388 Great idea. I've even thought of turning the cant 90 degrees so the grain will be in line with the blade and make the grain stand out a little more. I have a blade that has two teeth that have a little more "rake" and gives a more grainey texture. Any thoughts? Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.
@@davidbauknight61 Be careful when cutting along the grain. It creates an angel air like dust what accumulate in the pullers and belt, crashing the machine.
Awesome! What are those 1x1 sticks attached to each block doing?
The first one (left) is the one that holds the wooden block to the flat board. It is also acting as a hinge. The second one (right) is just a handle to lift the end of the block in order to place/remove the spacer.
Looks like you need a cordless blower. Thanks for the idea
I suppose you could put your blocks vertically say after they got to a 5-6" depth. That would give you some varying widths.
When blocks are too small to make more cuts, I put some of them together using waterproof glue. This way I get one more workable blocks.
Beautiful....watched all over again is that cedar
It is oak
Just got the same mill as yours. Would like to see a video on how you built that jig.
Jerry, it's a very simple jig: one horizontal board with two inches board attached to the opposite sides of the clamp. One inch of this two inches board will stick up to support the wooden block and prevent it from twisting when the blade is cutting. The wooden block is attached to the horizontal board using 1x1inc. sticker. If you need some more information, please let me know. Sorry about the late reply.
I really appreciate the video. Looking for a simple and inexpensive way to do this, and this is perfect!
I wish I could do a better video but, I don't have enough experience; it's not my area. If you need some info on your set-up, feel free to contact me. Thanks.
Around 1975 Dad had a bundle of cedar shakes in the barn where I worked on my car. Had a little wood stove for heat. Those shingles made perfect kindling. I hardly remember dad being so mad at me.
lol
Funny 😅
Very nice! What angle did you cut the 2x4 on the bottom ?
I tried to match the same angle of the lower horizontal surface of the bucket. Probable five or ten degrees.
Is the bracket from the turnbuckle to the rear of the bucket homemade?
Yes, James; as you can see after 0:56 of the video, most parts are accessible from any hardware. The only part with some modification is a made hook to catch the rear lip of the bucket.
Thank you
Thank You for sharing this! I'm definitely going to fab one up for my Kubota. I have turf tires on mine - might need chains.
I have a hilly driveway and using a rubber blade is a must. It prevents sliding when going down, and also I get a clean path.
I had the rubber blade from here: www.snowengineeringdivision.com/
What are the dimensions of the finished shingle? Thanks
Long-16", thickness: one end-1/4", the other one -1/2. Width is variable, depending on the block of wood.
No Idea how you made this and really can't see how it held to bucket with out it falling of .wish you would have expanded how you made it .video of you plowing snow that all .
John, I'm going to make a short video showing the most details. I'll let you know when published. Thanks.
Also, there are some details on the first video:ua-cam.com/video/IdUNXTjgNmM/v-deo.html
John, take a look at this video so can see why the pusher doesn't fall off from the bucket. ua-cam.com/video/9vPXcfqdFbw/v-deo.html
Pretty cool shingle maker. Did you build the wood shed as well?
Thanks William. Actually, there are two sheds. The smaller one was built using most of the lumber from Home Depot/Lowe's. The bigger one I used rail-road ties as pillars. The rest of the lumber was cut using the milling machine.
@@guillo2388 Cool. Thanks!
worst cameraman ever js
Sorry g maurstad; I was half way doing this job when I decided to grab the phone and record part of the process. I just wanted to share the way I did it, just in case someone would like to take advantage of the setup.
Cool jig. Shingles are super expensive.
Yes they are!
What species of wood are you sawing? What wood makes the best shingles? Thanks
I was sawing white oak. According to Google info, there are other wood what can be used for shingles: black locust, honey locust, redwood, cedar, rock elm, etc.
I’m going to make me one of these jigs!!! Simple and effective. Thank you for sharing!!!
If you need help with the setup, contact me. Thanks.
How much do you lower the blade for each pass?
-Pass with spacer under right end, lower head (blade) 1/4" -Pass without spacer under right end, lower head (blade) 1/2"
You can make them any thickness as long as you cut one time at a thickness you want the thick end and then half as thick on every other cut.
If I could give you 2 thumbs up I would...very ingenious!
Thanks, James
Can I get a idea of how much a machine like this cost. Again thanks for sharing you made look simple I would like to try make a few thousand I need for the cabin
Jose, the actual price for this machine is $3,199.00. You can get more accurate info by visiting manufacturer: woodlandmills.com. Thanks.
Cool video. What are you going to do with the shingles? Post pic or video on them
I used some for a roof section of one shed. I have a second shed where I'll be using some more.
@@guillo2388 well cool. When you do the next shed show us how you do it.
I like the setup and I am just wondering if you have an idea of how long it takes to cut the equivalent of a “store bought” bundle ? Thanks for sharing
I never buy shingles and or I don't know how many in the bundle. The amount depends on the number of blocks and the quick placing and removing spacers at every pass. The video was in real time and the action was like cutting regular boards.
how do you think bering spuce shingles would fair
Spruce is bomber....
Killer idea!
Very good.
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing......brilliant
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you Sir for posting.....the best procedure I have ever seen.A blessing to watch a craftsman.
You are very welcome