Відео

It will come out, I had to stick a flathead behind it and pry it out. Good luck.

​@@stevek3270 thanks I will try flatehead screwdriver to pull it out.

It has been awhile, but if I remember correctly it is just some tabs around it that have to be bent up, use a hooked pick.

@@stevek3270 Thanks, the front tab seemed obvious but couldn't see or feel the back tab. Will try with a hooked pic

That sounds like you are low on refrigerant

A little under $1500.

@@jimmcginley89 leadersrpmshop.com, Amazon and eBay all have them.

@@stevek3270 thank you kind sir!

I am glad I could help.

Then you are probably low on refrigerant. If you have a gauge, check it out. If you are not too low, turning on the rear a/c will help. A $10 can from walmart should have you back to cool.

Since this video, I had to do the job again. They dont last long.

@stevek3270 well that sucks. And they're not cheap. A ripoff for a little spring.

That sounds good. I didnt want to buy more tools, and was on the very last row. It works fantastic, and absolutely no force was needed. Any damage that might have been done, (none was) would have been covered by the baseboard.

@@stevek3270 very nice 👍 keep it coming

I am sorry, I do not.

Awesome, glad I could help.

If the dash is like mine, you will not have to remove the dash. I would have been able to get it out of mine with the way I did this. With that being said, I do not know if the Lexus is set up like this. I would assume so, but cant be sure.

@@hangingatthegulf.3889 it looks very similar- if not the same.

Update: the Lexus RX350 is exactly the same, however, there is a cover that goes over the servos to hold them in place. Wish I could attach a pic. I got the screws out of the cover, but I’m afraid to break the cover if I pull too hard.

Update: I was able to swap the mode servo out on the Lexus. However, the new one isn’t working either. Air is still stuck on the face vents. I just replaced the AC amplifier and that didn’t fix it. Any suggestions on further troubleshooting? ALLDATA says to check that wiring harness to the servos. However, it’s difficult to check that harness because the plastic connectors that go to the servos have IC chips in them.

@@kelbymorgan Are you sure the servo isnt moving at all? If you can, connect it to the harness, but dont install it, then see if the servo actually moves. It could be fine, and be jammed up at the gears. Most of the problems I am seeing with these are the gears coming apart and jamming up.

Rockauto

Before the mechanic, what is it doing? is it working sometimes or never?

@@stevek3270 it’s super cool on pass side, but not as cool on drivers. * we don’t hav individual temp Ctrl knobs for this 2011 highlander. Gona cursorily move things around down, under the dash and c if it helps🫰🏻

@@rudysmachado5747 If yours has the rear a/c option, turn on the rear a/c.

I dont know enough about this to give you solid advise. I would hate to put your pool at risk with a good guess. You should probably ask a pool company/builder in your area. Sorry.

Yes. I live at sea level, and didnt want to take any chances.

I like the fridge idea, but as far as the water from the drain, Its not that its trapped under the pool, its that I live at sea level, 30ft from the ocean. You might have an easier time if you are not right near the sea. The only way to slow it down was a plug. I was also concerned with the pool popping up due to the pressure under it.

Sube el video,, jeje

I hope so too. Please let me know if it works.

Will do.

That sounds like a good idea.

@@stevek3270 that was the easy task, now I've got to figure how to reassemble and put it back!

@@starrwars2655 It went back together much easier then taking it apart. Try it before you button it up, but make sure there is adequate pressure on the gear so it doesnt get pushed away from the arms again.

I have to say I am happy with it. I can see the old white plaster on the corner edge of the shelf, but I think that is more my fault then the products. It is only one the one spot, and it looks like I didnt put enough on. Other then that, It looks like it did when I put it on.

Thank you.

I tried to get her to be in front of the camera, she has no interest. The only reason she was willing to hold the camera was because it was her car I was fixing.

@@stevek3270 well she is willing to get involved, so that's a plus or minus depending 😉.....

Its possible, but it could also be the heater core, your thermostat, and some other things. Is yours also the dual climate that passenger and driver can pick their own temp? If so, check both sides.

That is awesome, I am glad I could help.

My pleasure.

The one I ordered was GPD 1712382 from Rockauto. I did return it though since I didnt need it.

What part are you talking about? The funnel was the only thing that was in the way, and I broke it, everything else just was taken apart, then put back together correctly, no cutting.

It was a little hard, you need patience. You have to look at the path of the nipples before connecting them. Make sure it makes sense. And after you have them lined up, try the a/c, heat, defroster and make sure it works before putting it all back together.

That is a good theory, but this particular car is a garage kept car in central Florida. I think it just happened to jump a few teeth. Thank you for the insight.

Ok Ok Ok Ok just call you 😊❤😊😊

About 10 days. One day to drain, then power wash, then acid wash, then tsp wash. That was about two days worth. Then a day to find all the hollow spots, and chip them out, and remove all the tile. Then a day to repair the hollow spots, and repair the bull nose. Another day to replace the tile, then a day to do one coat of sidercrete, a day (if I remember right) to let it set up, then another day to do final coat.

Now that it has been a year and a half since I did it, I am not as sure about the amount of water I used, but I believe it was at least a quart, but could have been as much as a gallon. I just dont remember. I did have help. My son was rolling it while I was blading it. As we got closer to the end of the pale, I would take over the rolling, while he would start a new batch. Before we started using water, the batches were way too thick, and would start drying too fast. That made it very difficult to keep up. Once we started adding water, it made all the difference in the world. It was easier to go on, looked better, didnt dry too fast. I could have done it by myself with the water added.

Thanks Steve much appreciated!

Was your motor bad?

@@stevek3270 motor was good, it was the gearing mechanism. I moved things around and it started working again.

@@suprola7961 Thats great, exactly what mine was.

So changing this will work for both side?

@@martinserrano6091yes

I used Home depot flex bond for the thinset, it lists Bathroom,Countertop,Exterior wall,Floor,Interior wall,Kitchen Backsplash,Shower,Swimming pool,Tub surround as suitable locations. For grout I used polyblend plus that lists the following as suitable locations, Can be used on floors, walls, countertops, tub surrounds, showers and in submerged conditions (swimming pools, spas, water features and fountains). Also from Home depot.

Thanks!

It is possible, but not the only possibility. When you're dealing with a turbocharged or supercharged engine, a small amount of oil in the air intake is usually considered normal. But an excessive accumulation of oil indicates a problem, such as faulty turbocharger/supercharger seals or an obstructed turbocharger return line.

So far I am happy with it. I think the blue looks great, my wife thinks it might be too bright. I used sider-cretes repair stuff for the bottom hollow spots, but when I ran out, I went to home depot and got the cement-all hydraulic cement that does the same thing. store.sider-crete.com/product-p/0929-50lb.htm

For somebody a little more talented than me, yes. Its a little like matching drywall finish, it take practice.

If you go the other way, will they tighten?

I didnt have that problem, but if you can get a flat head screwdriver behind the screw head while spinning with the t30, then use leverage to push it out with the screwdriver while spinning. It might not be easy, but it is doable.

@@stevek3270 I tried going the other way and it doesn’t appear like they tighten either. Just continues to spin no matter what way I go. I tried the flat head screwdriver method but it’s difficult to get leverage without causing damage to the plastic. I removed the bolt w no problem it’s the bolts connecting to the ski that I can’t get out.

Based off another board I saw, it looks like we are possibly in the same area, NPR, FL.

@@lmoore3673 Yes.