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I imagine this battery would last 4-5 hours in the 3rd speed setting under normal conditions. I would expect a longer run time from a lithium battery.

Thank you for your comment. I'm not an expert, but I would say, if you measure from the top of the transom to the water line you might get a good idea of how deep the motor will sit in the water. I believe 24" would have worked fine with my boat. Hope that helps.

Depends on the battery you are using, with mine I'd say three hours of steady use brings it to about 50% which for me would be empty.

I am looking at trolling motors and interested in there 62lb..Where you able to resolve your over heating problem and did you contact NV about this?Thanks ..-Scott

@@truewealth50 Yes I did. I actually documented my findings and recorded it. There's no way around it. These things will run hot. I checked it and the temps far exceed the insulation ratings. NV sent me another motor, a 62lb motor which uses heavier gauge wires, but it still overheats. In talking to them, they said their motors were not designed to work with Lithium Phosphate batteries, but they are designing them to now and supposedly the new batteries should work better. They've beefed up the wires, but the going down the shaft is still the same gauge since it's short. I think that's where the issue is or it could just be their motors are just not efficient enough and just simply are current hogs. The new one was supposed to be better but it's not. It does the same thing. Soon as I put it in the horse trough and let it run, it heated up above the wires ratings like my 55lb motor did. I just hacked it by putting heat sinks on my terminals and my switches to help dissipate the heat. When I did that, I was able to run the motors without it ever tripping. Where I'm at, I have access to all kinds of old computers and printers with all kinds of heat sinks so it's easy to get one's that are the perfect size for it. I used a grinder to cut off some of the fins to give me some to drill and bolt to my terminals. If I go out with them, I will for sure be using heatsinks because it's the only way to really keep the wires cool. With my heat sinks mounted, my temps if I recall right, only ever got up to around 80C vs without which reached 160C and the wires are rated for 105C. Note, the breaker doesn't always trip when it should. I noticed this about my breaker. If you're not running full throttle, I don't think you'll run into any issues. It's when you're running full throttle that you run into issues. Aside from the breaker's tripping, I've never had reliability issues with the motors, but then again, I don't use it that much. I've only ever been in the water about a dozen times, but each time, I'm going up river 2miles and back down 2. I love my Lithium Phosphate battery, but I think they can discharge at a much faster rate than traditional marine batteries so the wires will heat up. The key is if you know about it, you can mitigate it. As to new motors, I think they are still working on it. Gary asked me if I wanted to be on their Beta testing program since I seemed to be pretty knowledgeable and I told him , 'yes', but I've not reached out to them yet because I've been quite busy. He said they were going to have new motor designs out this spring and basically they would send you a motor to test out and give them feedback. If you're unsure, the first thing is to determine how you will use it, because this is going to determine the load you will be putting on the motor. If you are trolling around slowly, it's not going to be an issue. If you're using it to get from A to B in as fast a time as possible, you will have overheating issues. I use it to power my Old Towne Discovery 158. When I go, it's always been with my son so fully loaded, we are looking at probably 450-500lbs and we are doing 2 miles up river and 2 miles downriver, but it's not just that. In my testing, my 55lb motor tripped around 5 mins. My New 62lb motor, I've not tested it except for a short run and it spiked right up just as fast, but I've not had the time to try to get it to trip. It's my believe it likely will to. The only difference is it comes with a 60A breaker unlike my 55lb motor. They told me they could send me the 60A breaker, but if you know anything bout electricity, you know that's asking for trouble. Circuits overheat because there's too much current. Using a larger breaker is just going to allow even more current to come through, potentially creating a fire hazard. The first time my motor trip, my cable's insulation near the teminal felt like gum. It was that soft and I can understand why because I measured it getting up to 160C. Find you some old computers and make you some heat sinks to dissipate the heat. For sure that's what I'm doing if I know I'm going to be pushing the motor. Good luck and stay safe.

@@vangmountain Thank you for getting back to me and taking the time to explain the over heating problem !You are about the only complaint I ve heard on NV trolling motors..You sound very justified with your complaint.If you just use a 12 volt deep cycle battery will youstill over heat? Was there a noticeable difference in power between the 55 lbs and the 62 lbs? It probably would be a good idea to give NV a call and see where they are at in solving this electrical problem.

​@@truewealth50 I wouldn't necessarily call it a "complaint" per se, because I love my motors/motors. The reason I brought it up to them was because my motor went cold turkey on my in the middle of the lake and I was on 98% battery life. And it just kept tripping so I had to paddle for about 10 minutes to let it cool. On the way back, it tripped most of the way so we ended up paddling most of the way. I don't think you'll have any problems if you use it at 3 and 4 and and only occasionally use 5. I never did any full tests on 4 to see how it heats up, so I don't know for sure, but it's just a guess. I know that at 5, the temps start to rise very quickly and depending on the ambient conditions, it could trip or it could keep running. Ambient conditions matter too. If you're using it on hot summer days, it's likely going to trip. I've never used it on hot summer days so I don't know. I typically take it out in the spring and late spring to flyfish white bass during the white bass runs. Other than that I don't get out on it much. As to the 62lb, yes, it definitely has more power. I've yet to run it on my canoe, but when I put it in the horse trough, it kick out about 1/3rd of the water. The electrical issue is the only thing I've ever had with my motors. They run great and I like them, but just know, if you are pushing it, there's a good chance you will trip the breaker. I will likely code an ESP32 or ESP8266 module to feed me real-time temperature data so I know and when I'm heating up. This way, I can throttle back or mitigate the heat. This with the combination of heat sinks is likely how I'll address it. My biggest concern is frying the inside cable or the motor coils which would lead to failure of the motor. It's best to not run it too hot as you're potentially shortening the life of the motor when you do that. Heat is the biggest killer of electronic parts. Being under water, I think the coils will be okay, but I'm not sure about the cable running in the shaft to the motor. Being in a tiny shaft, it may not be able to dissipate heat well. Good luck and don't let this scare you. The motors are good. Definitely talk to them and question them about any changes they've made. As far as I know, it's really just been about upgrading the cables to a heavier gauge and using a large fuse which really isn't a good thing unless everything is rated for that kind of amperage. You can ask them about the cable inside the shaft. If I recall right, I think Gary said they did not upgrade it due to it's shorter span. They only upgraded the external cables. As to the regular marine deep cycle, I do not know as I don't use any. I don't like the weight and I don't like the charge times and the inability to deep discharge without damaging it. But yes, Lithium Phosphate batteries should push more current because they charge to a higher voltage than regular deep cycle marine batteries. As long as you know about it now, you know what to look for. Feel your wires. If they are too hot to touch, it's time to dial it down because your are pushing the 100C range at that point. At this point, it could trip at any point. Just a note about the breakers. Beware they they are rated for a current rating, but it's not the current that actually trips them. They trip as a result of temperature and yes, there is a direct relationship between temp and amperage, but just know that it could draw more amperage than the beaker is rated for, but it won't trip if the temp isn't high enough to induce a physical change to cause the breaker to trip. I also keep a spare breaker handy in case the breaker fails for some reason.

@@truewealth50 Another thing to focus on are the connections. As someone who's pretty knowledgeable about electricity and electronics, I will say that I believe one of the big issues with this setup is the connectors themselves. Because they are thin and the contact surface is small, this retards current flow leading to heat build up. If you can improve on this(building your own connectors and have connections that can apply the proper contact surface and contact pressure, I think it might reduce heating pretty substantially. I know this is half of the equation. The other is current. Just thought I'd let you know.

Thank you for your message. I do not have the specs you're asking about. Unfortunately, I no longer have this motor either. I sold it with the boat when I moved. If it's just the cotter-pin you're looking for, I'd take the motor to a hardware store and they could help find a stainless steel pin to fit. Good luck. Hope you get it straightened out.

@@ralbinola9358 Yeah had a bunch of trouble finding the pin so I just took a bolt and cut it to size.

The shaft is 30" length x 1" diameter.

It's like .96 hp. Not sure what you expect?

You thought you'd hit like 10mph??? You slow, son?

Sounds pretty reasonable. It's less than one horsepower.

I wouldn't say that it's charging it, it's just not drawing as much off the battery, so the volt meter displays the voltage in relation to the current draw. Hope that makes sense.

Have u figured out this problem? U put it in forward/reverse and it goes...it does not stop when u let off the pedal? I'm hvn the same issue..if u fixed ur probslem what did u do??

The boat in the video is about 12 foot. Yes, I believe the Newport motor could handle pushing 800+ pounds. I've had 5 adults and a few small kids in that boat and the motor performed with no problem.

Title claims it's a Monarch, but I can't confirm that. 🧐

Hey great question. I actually recorded a segment for the video to address that question, guess I forgot to include it. I'll see if I can get it added. To answer your question, we spent about two hours on the lake while recording the video, just two of us in the boat, we cruised across the lake and back about 1.5 - 2 miles at speed 5 with several ventures at slower speeds. Starting with a full charge about 12.8v (per my volt meter) we ended with a charge at about 12.28v Thanks for the comment and watching the video. Hope that helps.

@@ralbinola9358 , that means you hardly used any battery at all. I'm getting that battery for sure !!✌🏽🥳 Super Thanx from FishHawk Trails, FL

That is true. This motor is adequate for the dinghy/tender, but I wouldn't recommend trying to move a 2500 pound sailboat in adverse conditions with it.

Adverse conditions generally means anchor out time

You should have a 80 lb

Yes, the motor can be powered out of the water. Though I'm not sure why you would other than testing.

Tops out at just under 5mph

With a 12 volt lead acid battery, you're in trouble if you go below 12 volts for a long period, as a 12 volt LA shouldn't be discharged that far - the battery can be damaged that way.

Yeah, I am impressed with the power of this motor. I am using the Everstart D27 110AH battery from Walmart.

Thanks

@@ralbinola9358 How long would this last running it around 3? I’m looking into the same battery now. I will look into getting a solar panel to help recharge the battery while I’m out and anchored.

@@arthur3397 @Arthur 33 I am not sure of the actual amp draw at 3 (there is a chart somewhere, I just can't locate it now), but I know at 5 it's about 50 amps. I would expect that you could run the motor 3-4 hours with a 100AH battery at 3. I have an updated video, on the channel, for 2021 the voltage drops to 12.51v in 3rd speed. Hope that helps.

?

Get a 12v deep cycle battery.

Dakota, There are many factors that will influence the run time per charge, but assuming best practice of running a fully charged 100AH lead acid battery down to 50% you can expect to run this motor in the 5th speed for about one hour continuous. At lower speeds you can reasonably expect much longer run times. I am planning a four year review video for this motor and will try to get a more accurate answer for each speed. Thank you for your question.

I can't speak about crocodiles but I used an inflatable around alligators in Florida without issue. I'd feel safer in a solid boat though.

@@ralbinola9358 thank you sir. So inflatably are generally safe and risk of deflation is low correct?

@@GrumpyTinashe That really depends on quality of the boat - rubber, PVC, Hypalon... along with where you're using it. Sticks and rocks at the shoreline or submerged off shore will make short work of a rubber raft. PVC or Hypalon would fair better, but are certainly not bullet proof. Have a good repair kit handy, rubber cement and spare patches are good to have on hand. Good luck.

@@GrumpyTinashe One more thing to mention is that changes in air temperature can have a big impact on the appearance of inflation, on a cool morning an inflatable may appear deflated but as the air temperature rises the pontoons will firm up. Just something to keep in mind so you don't over inflate your boat.

@@ralbinola9358 that's very helpful. I think I'll get an inflatable first then save up some money then a solid boat down the line

Stephen, I do not have a wiring diagram for that cart. Check out this link - www.vintagegolfcartparts.com/cgi-bin/gallery/gallery.cgi?func=show&file=200330&Category=100013&Page=1 I hope it helps

You find diagram?

@@tonybarron6508 no ended up getting to run fwd then sold the cart

Jose, I no longer own this golf cart so I cannot shoot any new video, but I will sift through the footage to see if I can put something together that may help you out. In the mean time I found this thread - www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=6803 - hope it will help.

@@ralbinola9358 thank you so much

Jose, here's the link I should have sent - www.vintagegolfcartparts.com/cgi-bin/gallery/gallery.cgi?func=show&file=200330&Category=100013&Page=1 - This is a pretty clear diagram. I hope it helps. I have not found any footage that I can put together a meaningful video with, sorry about that.