Відео

thank you so much. just bought an 83 9.9 and I'm changing the water pump this weekend. Do I need to lubricate either end of the drive shaft when I reinstall everything?

Thanks found try the detailed video. I never would have attempted the rebuild without it. Hardest part for me was reinstalling the starter, getting that tab in the hole without the spring coming apart.

I lost spark on my 15 hp 1980 evinrude. I tested the stator. It reads at 603

I'm fuel pump has a spring loaded nipple that goes into engine body attached to fuel pump I don't know how to reassemble my new fuel pump. it doesn't come with that nipple part. can you help me

i appreciate your videos... i was able to check and verify that I have spark to both plugs from your other video.... I also have verified fuel going to the carb.... but no pop of any kind when I try to start the motor... does that indicate that I may have a gunked up card/jet, and need to rebuild it? or chemically clean it? thanks for you no-nonsense videos. ;o)

Great job . We're doing impeller replacement today .

Wonderful video. I would’ve been lost without it. However, I noticed that when putting on the final metal plate with the “U”, the orientation changes from 19:19 when you show the finished assembly to when you install it on the motor at 19:36. I originally had it installed like it was at 19:19 but then switched it to how you have it on the motor because this seems correct. Just an FYI for you and anyone else using this video to get the correct orientation that this minute detail was not acknowledged. Thanks!

Great step by step instructions 🎉

I wish I had teachers in school like this! I rebuilt my 9.9 Carb following your lead. Works Great!

Thank you for being so thorough. When I ohm tested my primary coils, they both read exactly 0.2. It’s at the very bottom of the range but technically is good? Is that something to worry about or is good? Thanks.

Would this apply to a 1974 9.9 Johnson?

Thank you for putting this together for us!

Every 2 years is crazzzzy talk

Excellent tutorial. I always like to do a quick check on anything I haven’t had apart before. This was very straight forward and you explained everything beautifully. Cheers.

One of the best repair/test videos I have ever seen. Thank you.

My 9.9 is not wired the same kill Switch is not with the coils do not have a trigger connection

Very useful video. Thank you

Very informative. one thing I might offer, if you are a clitz like me, in order not to drop the nuts and bolts down in the shaft, you can stuff a rag under it to catch them. thanks very much!

Man your videos on these old girls are the BOMB, Thank you so much for doing them. Helps keep my 9.9 up to spec, and your pace is very nice. No BS just the facts.

This is a great video, I could not find any of the readings you mentioned anywhere else online, if you don’t mind me asking how did you obtain this knowledge?

Thanks to this video i can see i have 2 bad coils, not sure how they both went bad at the same tim.

Setting idle in neutral will get you close to where you want to be...but to fully dial in idle engine needs to be in gear lowest throttle. Setting in neutral typically will be too low once shifted to fwd gear. Easy to do wharf side, secure bow & stern lines to cleats, start & warm engine to operating temps, few minutes, in neutral. Gently seat Idle screw, then out 1.5 turns. With boat secured, shift into fwd gear, the engine should sound close to stall, with typical 2 stoke low speed wobble n shake. The goal is to have engine near edge of stall in gear, then when shifted into neutral idle will rise somewhat. Too high idle in gear leads will lead to excessive rpm when shifted in neutral, and hard on bottom end when shifting in gear, clucks, etc. Next step is to dial in idle bit further, when in-gear give short quick twist throttle to wide open and back to idle...see if engine stalls, snorts or pops, stumbles. Important to do this step as it's common while underway to give quick short throttle twists and you don't want low speed stalls in around wharfs while docking boat or approaching other boats...then quickly trying to restart engine before bumping into whatever. If doing this in-gear test, the engine snorts, flops & stalls after quick throttle twist, rich up (more) the idle screw setting slightly, until engine can accept short burst and back to idle without stalling or stumbling. Do this a few times, shift back to neutral...then back in gear. Don't be too worried about engine looking and sounding rough at idle in gear, that's what 2 strokes do at low rpms. One should be careful not to rich up idle speed unnecessarily for a snappy throttle response as that can promote fouling of spark plugs. This process can be done in test tank of sufficient size, or large barrel... too small a barrel you'll soon find yourself with wet shoes and bucket half empty, that's why tieing boat to wharf is ideal. After initial set up go test on water, get lean/rich set nicely for idle and snappy response outta the hole. Before any if that, the usual "givens" apply ... aim for ethanol free fuels, often supreme grade, correct oil mix ratio for model, clean fuel tank, open air screw fuel cap, intact fuel lines, good clean in-line filters if applicable, and clean, good condition spark plugs with correct gap. Attempting to set idle without those givens can/will hamper your attempts at setting idle speeds. If you fish and troll often at low speeds... be sure to run boat briefly at or near wot speeds around the bay end of the day ... keep those plugs clean....and it's darn fun too. 👍🏻✌🏻

Very interesting video. Very easy to understand. Thank you

Make sure you let people know they must remove the bolt on the shift shaft for the lower unit to drop out. It took me a while even after hearing one mechanic say that….. it just looked like it should come apart without totally removing that bolt.

Would a nut on the bolt through the starter assembly do the same job as electrical tape?

This is a fantastic video. I just got my first boat recently and I know absolutely nothing about outboard motors but this video helped me get my 1977 Evinrude 9.9 in working order. It sat for 3 years without running but after pulling the carb apart cleaning it and replacing the internal parts following this video it started no problem. Thank you for posting

Great explanation and you made it easy to follow. Thank you.

Excellent! A no-nonsense video without music and crap..just pure and honest information. Subscribed! I just bought a 1967 Evinrude 9 1/2 HP and got it fixed. Thanks to your videos it spared me a lot of time.

Engine dying when put in gear? Pump or carbie?

Nice work

when taking apart assemblies that are susceptible to dropping parts into the netherwhere I stuff rags a paper towels in the voids beneath in case I lose my grip on said components.

I have a 1976 Evinrude we have used for years (since new)........never have changed the water pump :/ maybe we should?

Why would both my coils on a 77 9.9 ready 1,256

Very good ❤❤

Think you very much master

Absolutely great video. Thank you very much. Just rebuilt my fuel pump. Question. I squeeze the bulb and I cannot seem to eliminate all the air bubbles out of the line. The bulb gets rock hard and stays rock hard when engine is running. Could it be a defective bulb? Any other causes for the air bubbles?

I am in the process of reworking a 1982 15 hp Evinrude. Where can I get accurate information on part numbers for ordering the various kits to rebuild the carb., fuel pump, etc. When I put the information in Google I get suppliers that list a page full of kits. P.S. You give great and accurate steps on the rebuild and checking parts for this motor. Thanks

I bought a shop manual for mine, and it contains dire warnings about not removing the drive shaft, else you will need to disassemble the lower unit in order to realign the pinion gear. And of course, I accidentally pulled it out a few inches while trying to clean off the shaft. Now sitting here wondering if I need to tear it all apart, then I find this video where you remove the shaft and reinstall like it is no big deal. Wondering what I am missing.

So i opened up my lower unit on my 1974 evinrude 15hp and there want like oily milky stuff everywhere. what is it. i cleaned it once put it back on and took it back off and it was there again. so what is this stuff.

Muy bien esplicado

Wonderful video! No bullshit and very straightforward! Thanks for sharing.

You better check your leads.. you may have .2 just at your leads..

👍👍👍

quick question, does the pilot jet come out? the ring around it was slotted on mine like it was meant to i tried it and ended up damaging the jet and that bras ring. just dont know if that does come out or i need a whole new carb all together

Video is very helpful

Great ! You didn't apply gasket sealer

But I have a spring he doesn't talk about I should of took a picture.

ohm your test leads to see how much resistence they have first..

that chart is neanderthal

Very nice and thorough video. Straight to the point, no extras and no background distractions! Great job and thank you very much for this video!