Відео

Thanks for watching, I agree with you about the time in regards to fitment. Fortunately I was lucky enough that since then I was gifted a Tig (UniMig Razor) with all the all the bells and whistles, I’ve had a couple hours of playing, just familiarising myself with the machine as a complete Tig weld novice, still far off using it on a project though. I’ve not had a lot of time lately for anything project related. I see a lot of people using silicon bronze for finish work of their repairs, definitely something I will look into once I’m closer to using the Tig more regularly.

@@TheRestoShed the razor are not a bad unit I used one back when I worked for someone else The best advice I can give you to pick up Tig quickly is use a metronome app or just a video on UA-cam Tig is very much about consistent movements not consistent movement like mig I start most people off at 60 bpm and then let them adjust the speed up or down everyone's different No right or wrong only results

@bluejayfabrications2216 thanks for the advice. A couple videos I watched recommended on fusion welding to start with which I’ve done a little bit of. I have some 1mm mild steel rods waiting for me to practice adding filler rod into the puddle when I get a chance to play again. The general census seemed to be 0.9 mig wire as filler rod for sheet metal which I had none on hand, 0.6 didn’t even make it into the puddle! Haha I figured the slightly thicker rods would help with practicing as they’re a bit more sturdier and controllable.

@@TheRestoShed to practice feeding filler rod I'd suggest buying dry spaghetti pasta the diameter is about the same as filler rod but it's so much more brittle it teaches you soft hands while feeding filler rod For fusion welding 1.15mm cold rolled I use pulse at 10 amps low 39 amps high with a 50 50 split And a pulse Hertz of 1.5 -2 Or flat current at 25 -30 amps The big thing to remember is at such low amps example 30 amps going up or down just 3 amps it a 10% increase in heat output Also how sharp the tungsten is and how far it is from the job ambient air temperature how close the metal is to the bench or surrounding structure all these things create a cumulative error that make it hard to diagnose at such low amps Just set up 50 pairs of tokens and only change one thing or setting at a time and note the results

@bluejayfabrications2216 thanks for the tips, much appreciated.

This video will answer your question BARE METAL - Paint Stripping And Preserving Bare Steel - HZ Holden Build - The Resto Shed ua-cam.com/video/ZdQOGjNB-LA/v-deo.html

Thanks for watching Nathan.

I’ve not got a tig and not taught myself how to use one yet. It’s on the cards

@@TheRestoShed Its light years from using a MIG. If you DM me I can give you sheet metal settings and a few tips that I was lucky to be taught and made it So easy. Mate you'll love the TIG once you get the wheels rolling with it///

@customrefinishersaustralia4747 yeah I totally get it, it’s something I want to do it just hasn’t happened yet. To buy a tig is on the cards for the future.

Scroll back through some of the earlier videos, I do some metal work on another HQ door that should answer your question

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching and subscribing Mike.

@@TheRestoShed I forgot to mention Cutting Edge Engineering. Although not automotive, still a great craftsman.

Thanks for watching 🙏🏼

Thanks for watching.

Thank you 🙏🏼

@@TheRestoShed I've Been working on cars for 23 years mate and that's some of the cleanest panel work I've seen done. Definitely something to be proud of keep up the good work.

Chassis guy had them machined up. Can’t buy them off the shelf.

Haha I don’t think so

@@TheRestoShed nah ur good

I try my best.

Not a rust converter, it’s the phosphate coating left on the steel after the Deoxidine process.

@@TheRestoShed yeah I’ve used deoxit before, got that one off Howard Astill! His stuff is next level but what you’re doing certainly appeals to me. What do you use inside the doors before the black rustoleum? Is that just deoxit as well?

It’s Wurth rust converter.

Thanks for watching.

That’s a good question, definitely something I would like to do.

@@TheRestoShed will u be doing the engine and everything else?

No, I’m just a body and paint guy.

@@TheRestoShed ye nice looking forward to the progress 🔥👌

Thanks for watching Matt.

Thank you Scotty 🙏🏼

Thank you and thanks for watching.

Thank you, thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching and subscribing.

Thanks for watching John.

I totally get what you mean, but we all start somewhere at the end of the day. Technically I am a backyard panel beater. That’s one of the reasons why I make videos, to give people an idea on how things can be done.

Thanks for watching.

Thank you. The dent puller is just an eBay unit, it was under $400 including shipping. I’m unsure if you can even still buy the same unit, I bought mine before the “Vevor” brand came into full effect but I have a suspicion that is who made it. If you just search into eBay ‘dent puller spot welder’ something similar should come up.

@TheRestoShed Thanks for the information. I was thinking Vevor had a hand in making yours as well. ✌️

Metal Man Tools. Around $215 with the backing plate.

Thanks for watching.

I would like to be able to do that, but at the moment chucking the Timelapse on while I work away is the easiest approach to document what I do without a lot of hassle.

@@TheRestoShedall good mate, I understand

It takes skill to operate a broom as well as me 😆

0.95mm cold rolled.

Thanks for watching.