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SIUK CNC
United Kingdom
Приєднався 28 гру 2013
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CNC Professional in the UK.
Welcome to SIUK CNC Channel, your gateway to the captivating world of CNC Cutting & Engraving.
We are a small CNC Cutting & Engraving Service, manufacturing both our own products which we sell online and bespoke work for others. Working with aluminium, brass, wood, plastic, foam and other materials that can be cut on a CNC Router.
Join us on this exhilarating journey as we unveil the secrets of CNC work, sharing our wealth of experience, expert tips, and entrepreneurial insights. Whether you're a seasoned CNC pro, an aspiring artisan, or a business enthusiast, our channel is your source for inspiration and knowledge. Subscribe now, and let's embark on a journey of craftsmanship, creativity, and limitless possibilities together!
If you have a project that you need help with, please reach out, it costs nothing to ask and if we can't maybe we'll know someone who can.
CNC Professional in the UK.
Welcome to SIUK CNC Channel, your gateway to the captivating world of CNC Cutting & Engraving.
We are a small CNC Cutting & Engraving Service, manufacturing both our own products which we sell online and bespoke work for others. Working with aluminium, brass, wood, plastic, foam and other materials that can be cut on a CNC Router.
Join us on this exhilarating journey as we unveil the secrets of CNC work, sharing our wealth of experience, expert tips, and entrepreneurial insights. Whether you're a seasoned CNC pro, an aspiring artisan, or a business enthusiast, our channel is your source for inspiration and knowledge. Subscribe now, and let's embark on a journey of craftsmanship, creativity, and limitless possibilities together!
If you have a project that you need help with, please reach out, it costs nothing to ask and if we can't maybe we'll know someone who can.
CNC DIY Polypropylene DJI Drone Shade
I'm struggling to see the screen when flying my DJI drone and the sun is out, I needed a shade for the phone screen attached to the remote, I decided to make one, just because I have a CNC, you can cut this on a laser too.
The hardest part was finding the right type of polypropylene for this project, a plastic that forms a brilliant mechanical flexible or 'living' hinge, this plastic will last a long time and is more practical.
On this occasion using Polypropylene, a plastic we've been using for some time and have CNC'd a few times.
Polyprop available from here in the uk: kitronik.co.uk/
#CNC #CNCMachining #CNCRouter #CNCFlatbed #CNCPolypropylene #dji #diydroneshade
The hardest part was finding the right type of polypropylene for this project, a plastic that forms a brilliant mechanical flexible or 'living' hinge, this plastic will last a long time and is more practical.
On this occasion using Polypropylene, a plastic we've been using for some time and have CNC'd a few times.
Polyprop available from here in the uk: kitronik.co.uk/
#CNC #CNCMachining #CNCRouter #CNCFlatbed #CNCPolypropylene #dji #diydroneshade
Переглядів: 137
Відео
Vevor 2.2kw Water Cooled CNC Spindle Review
Переглядів 6 тис.6 місяців тому
Quick video giving my opinion of the Vevor 2.2kw Water Cooled CNC Spindle, which we've been using for around 18mths. #cnc #CNCSpindle #CNCMachining #CNCRouter #CNCFlatbed #Review #vevor
CNC Spindle Killer
Переглядів 12 тис.7 місяців тому
In this video I explain what killed my spindle and how you can prevent it happening on your machine, especially if you are an occasional CNC Router user. In order to prevent damage to your CNC Spindle or for that matter your CNC machine as I also mention some good practice for it's use, you'll find the information in this video useful. Hopefully preventing you from suffering the same misake we ...
CNC Router Lubrication, The Ultimate Guide to Do's and Don'ts .
Переглядів 2,2 тис.7 місяців тому
In this video I walk through the lubricantions to avoid and which to use on your CNC machine to keep it running. Staying on top of vital maintainance with your CNC is essential if you want to avoid expensive damage and maybe considerable down time. This is the first in a two part video on this subject, the next video being about an essential routine you need to do, every time you start your mac...
Starting a New CNC Router Business Five Pitfalls to Avoid
Переглядів 3868 місяців тому
"Essential Tips for Launching Your CNC Router Business: Avoid These 5 Common Pitfalls!" If you're venturing into the world of CNC router business, whether it's a side hustle or a full-scale endeavor, this video will help. This will help guide you through the crucial aspects to steer clear of as you embark on this exciting journey. Learn from our experience and avoid the common pitfalls that can...
What's Cutting in my CNC Router shop || A typical shop day.
Переглядів 8711 місяців тому
What's Cutting in my CNC Router shop || A typical shop day.
vlog Metal Forming CNC Router or Plasma Cut Parts - Things to consider when designing & bending.
Переглядів 78Рік тому
vlog Metal Forming CNC Router or Plasma Cut Parts - Things to consider when designing & bending.
CNC Router Profit Opportunities: One Question = 3 New Products = More Sales
Переглядів 254Рік тому
CNC Router Profit Opportunities: One Question = 3 New Products = More Sales
CNC Aluminium The biggest myth on CNC Machining.
Переглядів 1,8 тис.Рік тому
CNC Aluminium The biggest myth on CNC Machining.
CNC Aluminium: CNC Router Dry Cutting 15mm Thick Aluminium Bracket
Переглядів 267Рік тому
CNC Aluminium: CNC Router Dry Cutting 15mm Thick Aluminium Bracket
eBay UK CNC Spring Loaded Diamond Dragbit Is it any good?
Переглядів 180Рік тому
eBay UK CNC Spring Loaded Diamond Dragbit Is it any good?
CNC Vlog #15 CNC Sheet metal products start to finish
Переглядів 106Рік тому
CNC Vlog #15 CNC Sheet metal products start to finish
Bending CNC Parts that were cut on a CNC Mill
Переглядів 147Рік тому
Bending CNC Parts that were cut on a CNC Mill
CNC Spindle: A Simple DIY Tramming Solution
Переглядів 2472 роки тому
CNC Spindle: A Simple DIY Tramming Solution
Do you need lubricant to fast cut this on a CNC Router?
Переглядів 892 роки тому
Do you need lubricant to fast cut this on a CNC Router?
What machine are you running? Interested to know your RPM and stepover settings too as I'm struggling with 5083.
Always use carbide single flute on cutting aluminium, even better DLC coated, you don't need to get the expensive ones now there are plenty of reasonably good discount options. I cut 5083 at full speed 24k RPM and roughly 1500mm per minute. That's using a 3mm diameter tool, which I typically only go to 2mm max depth on a straight cut tool path. Ensuring the chips clear is important, if cutting thicker parts to any depth, narrow channels easily block, so keep hitting with air.
Thanks for doing this video. I just bought one of these. I sort of didn't think about it, but do you really just use water to cool it or is there something needed to prevent corrosion?
No, you don't just use water. It must be de-ionised water and I always add antifreeze / coolant mix it helps extend the life of the water from going manky, which it will. You do need to change it regularly to, like changing oil in your car. Keep an eye on it around every 6mths roughly.
Can't argue with those results! Final piece looked really clean, nice work!
Yes! Thank you!
Some new machines will appear lubricated, but this is only a preservative grease that should be removed and replaced with the recommended grease. Not enough users do this and the machine slowly wears out.
6:20 you mean within a few hundreds of a mm instead of a few thousands right? 0.02 or 20um I'd consider not really great. My RATTM 1.5KW spindle is well below 0.01mm, the needle hardly moved, as measured within the inner taper where the collet sits. The outer diameter isn't really relevant.
What killed my spindle (1.5KW ER11 spindle) was running a long program with a lollipop cutter sticking out too much. The vibration that caused increased the runout to a degree it was unusable and it made a lot more noise, even with a 1/8" cutter. I never let it warm up though, other than the lollipop incident it has been working fine. I've tried to replace the bearings of the old spindle but I can't get the fan part off. If someone has a tip to get it off I'd appreciate it.
Thanks for watching. Excessive vibration will also cause problems. It sounds like you're using the CNC for 3d carving, you are therefore more at risk from the issue mentioned in the video. The video is to give you information which the manufacturer includes in their manuals and all pro-machine shops recommend and do.
3:49 , try to avoid that from happening. The flying metal piece can break the end mill. This happened to me once. The end mill broke the instant it touched the break away piece…😂😂 To avoid this you can add dog tags (Freecad terminology) in the cam file, the tags stop the metal from flying away
Thank you for your comment. Yes there are places where tabs are required, there places where they are not. It's also true that when cutting large thin flat sheet that tabs don't always work, if the part picks up vibrations, which is itself also a bigger killer of endmills. Unless you're using very thin endmills or fail to monitor the machine as it's cutting, it's very rare that small parts flying off damage them. If they don't fly off clear on their own, they need brushing out of the way of the cutting area. When cutting in volume, it isn't always possible to spend the time cleaning up parts that you can as a hobby or low volume, hence needing a clean, straight off the machine cut that requires minimum deburring. It's therefore the very powerful vacuum bed that holds the parts, but the counters however are so small, they are free to release and are more of a risk to me if I don't wear PPE.
I cut out a bracket for a motor from 3/4 aluminum using a 1/16 nano blue endmill, no problem at all. But I did cut 1/8 deep with each pass. If your doing metals, you NEED a vac running to keep the chips from building up
You don't really need a vac tbh as most vacs can't lift the volume of metal fast enough unless you're holding the original vac tube over the slot getting in the way. I personally have more issues with MDF in terms of build up in the slots, vacs struggle to lift that dust out of the slot and it's a lot finer and lighter than the chips from metal. You do need something to help reduce the chips though, which a vac does or indeed as I do a blower, - personal choice on that one. With a decent upcut bit, the bit should also lift the chips up and out of the slot anyway.
I generally just find a manufacturer I trust (in this case, hiwin) and take their recommendation. Hiwin g05 (their standard grease) is an ngli 2 grease. I dont think most routers qualify as high speed in their eyes, but their g04 grease says its grade 260-280, which I assume means the ngli worked penetration test, which puts it in ngli 2 grade as well. They also do say that you should choose the lubricant that makes the most sense, whether it be grease or oil, and they say not to use ptfe, silicone, or graphite. Ive seen a lot of people recommend mobilux ep1 as a good lighter weight alternative as well, but I wouldnt be afraid to use a high quality ngli 2 grease.
As I mention, if your machine comes with a recommendation then you should follow it. My only caveat and the same with all the types you mention, which I confess I know nothing about, the lubricant needs to be addative free.
Slideway oil is even better as it has specific bearing lubricant additives and will stay longer attached to metal linear bearings and the lead screws, they also have the benefit of coating exposed metal to help prevent corrosion and it does not seem to leave a residue that holds onto dust so another win on that front.
Slideway oil and machine oil can be the same thing, depending on the grade of machine oil, but yes it is another name for it.
What is this material?
That is PVC Foam, or expanded PVC, it's as easy to paint as wood with a variety of finishes and techniques and clearly being a plastic is ideal for outdoor use.
I'm going to give 3 in 1 a try
Is this because your shop is cold? Mine is in a finished basement that’s heated year round.
No, you should run in your spndle each time regardless. You may not have to go through the breif warm of the electrics that I do, but that is due to humidity where I am coupled with the cold. The spindles though should follow this. Also, I didn't make it as clear as I should have done in the video, if you only use your machine occasionally, you should do this routine regardless kif you need to use it at least a couple of times a month.
I hope to see how this works out, thanks!
I've been unable to find any notes on the US supplier of this Polypropylene. It's important to not this is 'calandered' polypropylene which is usually sold at 0.5mm and 0.8mm, this type is often used for stationary file covers, being smooth on one side and mottled on the other. Most suppliers stock the engineering plastic, I had a 1mm sample of this sent whilst searching and while it would work, isn't finished and therefore visually less attractive. 🙂
How did you manage to get a Vevor into uk? They've stopped shipping to uk for long time, many items failed import inspection! Ive be3n trying to get another 800w VFD kit, love my 1st and Vevor is very good price
(short answer) I bought it around 18mths ago, my understanding the only Vevor item the UK Govt had blocked was the Diesel Heater, and nothing to do with its safety! You'll find many identical products as Vevor is just the label. They maybe a few £more though.
did you do the full video of this?
I didn't, thank you for asking. If it's something of interest I can add this to the list for future content.
As foreman of a cnc shop it was part of my job to come in 20 minutes early, switch on the kettle, start all the machines up and do the lubrication ritual for each one and then start them on their warm up programs - different one for each machine - once they were all running their warming up cycles it was coffee time. By the time the staff arrived all the machines were at operating temp and the production day could forge ahead. I actually took the warmup and lube function onto myself because a lot of the time operators were lazy and skipped them and sometimes the lube points were either not done or some were skipped. Being an operator in a production shop is really a job best done by brainless people - example: people that are there to be clocked in for 8 hours a day and then go to the bar. One of our Victor 2000 machines ran the exact same program for 26 months straight but that operator took pride in his work and work-piece change times were almost unbelievably fast and he could "hear" when a tool was getting worn and call me to get the tool for that action swapped out - eventually I realized that after having watched me do it for so long he knew what to do so I started to allow him to do it himself (under supervision at first). He was eventually poached by another cnc production house down the road. GOOD FOR HIM.
what is the rating on those steppers? are those 23's?
I have 34's on my machine.
@@siukcnc wow. she is a true beast of a home CNC.
It's not a home CNC and TBH there are better machines, we've improved it since we bought it, we have it in an industrial unit and run it professionally. It's small because that was all the space we have in the unit to accomodate a machine. One of our other videos is a review of this machine, lets just say there was a few issues when we got it.
@@siukcnc i call it a home machine because its not a big three phase 480v machine running a 12ft bed or some crazy size. but its still a beast for its size. im a controls engineer with the last three decades spent in factories. i have a biased scale for what i call professional machinery.
@@Kathyoftheglade That makes sense. The blower on the VAC bed I fitted is 3 phase at the moment, though I may use the spare VFD I now have to put it back to 240v.
Thanks 👍
Thank you too.
Back in the 80's and 90's, some commercial CNC shops with a specialty of making high precision components would keep their machines running cutting paths during hours when the machines weren't making parts. This kept the ball screws, bearings, lubricant, etc. at normal operating temperatures, thereby minimizing the impact of thermal expansion. Your procedure will not only keep the spindle in good condition but will also improve the overall accuracy of the machine by improving repeatability of positioning. Warming up the entire machine is a good practice, even though it is a bit of a nuisance. I recommend writing a simple program to exercise the spindle and drive system. Start off with slow spindle RPM and feed rates, increasing over the course of several minutes as the system warms up.
And since forever, grinding machines are left on all day, so the spindle bearings stay warm and on tolerance for clearances, etc.
Im going to be machining some acetal soon and this looks similar to cut
Yes, and likely just as messy, it gets everywhere and a dust shoe is pointless.
@@siukcnc I once used a router on polycarbonate making some boat windows, after I looked around and then walked out of the shead and decided I'll clean up tomorrow 🤣
Agreed on the rankings, although I have "way oil" instead of "machine oil" but it does not seem much different. I recently purchased a used (and abused) CNC machine. There was a ton of grease (hard to determine exactly what, but I suspect the "red and tacky" automotive grease) and even more grime on the outside of the bearing blocks. After disassembly of those bearing blocks, the bearing balls themselves were entirely dry. Even though they were in poor condition, the wipers on the blocks were still able to reasonably effectively kept the grease outside of the moving parts. It does not seem that many people know that the grease zerks on the bearing blocks are there for a purpose.
Sounds like you were lucky, I hope it was a bargain, they're the best buys, ones that only need minimal TLC to bring back to life!
This is very very cautious. Perhaps warranted, but, your problem could likely be solved by letting it run at low speed for a few minutes or so before starting. These things come up to temp very quickly, and they never really get "hot". What you're trying to avoid here is hitting the spindle with load while it's cold, because the cold lubricant in the bearings isn't in-spec until it warms up to operating temps. You may also consider a program where the machine makes a large, slow circle for a few laps so your steppers aren't stone cold when they start working, for the same reason. Also it gives you a chance to make sure the machine is running right before putting work in it. In terms of ramp up/down, again, as long as you're dialing it up/down slowly, you're fine. You want to avoid slamming a ton of power at a spindle all at once, because it'll take time to catch up, during which it is mostly producing heat in the windings. The same goes for ramp down, because it's on a VFD, the VFD slowing the spindle will cause it to electronically brake, which again, just produces heat. Not the end of the world, just easy to avoid with a few seconds of time. Depending on your VFD, you can likely program in a short warmup cycle, and a ramp up/down cycle, that'll simplify all of the above. A couple seconds is all you really need there, or about a casual dial turn. Also you mentioned that you have a Vevor spindle setup here, and, it would probably be best to not run it at maximum speed, you can probably realize some additional longevity at 80% or so. Yes that'll be slower overall, but, not a ton slower. The other thing to consider is making sure the whole machine stays clean. It makes sense to have a vacuum system with a cyclonic separator on these, and that's possible to retrofit as well. That keeps them and the shop much cleaner. You still have to clean everything, just, less. Keeping the moving parts clean will extend their life alot.
Thanks for response, very detailed, really appreciate you taking the time. On the spindle warm up, as stated I'm performing the instructions listed in the manual for that spindle, which may well be OTT. I do mention the stepper warm up and the reasons why I now do this manually, previously I did automate which I know most do and it's fine, I now like to listen the machine as it's warming and pick up any issues as it's moving. I found a loose screw in an awkward position doing it manually that was in a not easy to check on routine daily inspection. It took several minutes of listening and moving to narrow down. All about pesonal preference. Intersting and a very good point on the top speed, something you won't read in a manual! As you say, won't make a great deal of difference to cut times, great tip, I'm definately going to adopt that one! Next video is going to be an opinion review on the Vevor spindle as I've used it for over 12 mths now. Totally agree on the cleaning, which I mention this on the previous vid about lubrication. I do have a cyclone fitted but as most of our cutting is aluminium, we create chips not dust, the chips go into recycling. I create more dust from the alu on the fibre wheel cleaning & deburring, that has it's own cyclone. We don't cut wood or MDF that often but it's essential then. HDPE though is a whole other story.
My water-cooled spindle manual recommends that if the spindle has not been used in days to start at 3,000 rpm for 20 minutes and increase by 3,000 rpm every 20 minutes. That's beyond a 2 hour warm-up sequence. Even for the first use of the spindle, yes, that degree of caution seemed a bit much. The spindle had been sitting for who knows how long, and the bearings did not sound healthy upon initial startup, so I did comply with the instructions. By the end of the warm-up sequence the spindle sounded perfectly normal at all speeds. For an air-cooled spindle, running it on a low speed for too long could be problematic, as the cooling airflow may be insufficient for the amount of heat that needed removal.
@@r2db If you're not using the machine regularly, it is worth turning it on just to run that warm up process every now and againl I'd recommend at least twice a month.
@@siukcnc Agreed, running some kind of warm-up is likely going to prolong the life of the spindle. If it continues to sound normal while operating at the slowest speed, I am thinking of halving the time to 10 minutes per increment, or just a bit over an hour for the full exercise routine. For the daily warm-up I have yet to settle upon a specific plan, but I am thinking 15-30 minutes including the motor axes, possibly including some fixture to check squareness of all axes. I have been in the process of an entire electronic rebuild (and partial mechanical one), so it's not going to get a ton of use for the immediate future.
@@r2db Makes sense when you think about it. One other comment suggested it's the slower speed at the start that needs to be the longer one, increments can reduce in time, hope that helps reduce your warm up a little.
Can't you automate the warm-up process with some G-code?
Most industrial machines will warn you if the machine hasn't been used for a period of time, few hours, etc and prompt you to run a warmup program. this slowly ramps the spindle arm up over 15 minutes or so.
If you have the spindle controlled by the g-code software then yes you could automate it all. I've never connected the spindle as I like the flexibility of adjusting the speed on the fly via the know on the VFD. I used to run a roadrunner path at the start , which was non cutting machine op to warm the steppers. I didn't pay attention to the machine as it was running something I do more now.
@ashpalmer1365 sadly most CNC routers don't have anything like that.
Alot of VFD's can do it all by themselves.
@@jttech44 Interesting, I didn't see that in the manual but there is a lot of settings I didn't look at.
i dont really think you need to max speed while warming up the spindle, Im using a hiteco 11kw spindle which max out at 24k rpm, i go 1000rpm for 4-5mins then 5k for 2-3 mins then 10k for another 2-3mins and at last i set it to 15k rpm for another 5 at least. 15k is the rpm im mostly working on btw. Also never forget to lub the spindle axle every month or so with a metaflux paste spray (if you have access ofcourse). The previous spindlle didnt last for long since i was working almost always at max RPM which is 24k, and the lub the "technician" told me to use was WD-40... AAAND yeah this destroyed it.
Possibly every manufacture suggestions variations in their manual. I use the popular Vevor 2.2kw, which mentioned full speed for 2-3 mins, which is much less than the initial 10m at slowest speed. Thanks for your contribution, very much appreciated.
WD-40 is terrible for use as a lubricant because it leaves a residue that hardens like varnish on the surface. I once had to repair the spindle brake systems on 12 CNC machines where the shop supervisor had been filling the reservoir with WD-40. The spindle brakes began locking up due to build up of residue. Manufacturers recommend certain lubricants for a reason, but this guy thought WD-40 was a miracle lubricant. A repair bill of several thousand dollars and lost revenue while the machine tools were unable to make parts taught him otherwise.
@@gaiustacitus4242 I missed that in the original post but yes, as per my previous video on CNC lubrication WD40 is a no no, other than for those who love to squirt it on parts they're cutting. I prefer to avoid that also,
😂some people used vegetable oils 😊
Really?
interesting opinions, but mate - light, sound and the mess in the background - to make this watchable ;)
I appreciate the comment and contructive criitique. I can't do a lot about the location at this time, though I have been giving some thought to an area in the unit I can perhaps utilise in future. To think at one point I had a whole green screen studio in there! Sound is a work in progress.
@@siukcnc Well personally I didn't click for the cinematic experience, I just wanted to hear the opinion and that was delivered fine and IMO not any need for accompanying music either. Thanks for your opinions, I'm just planning a CNC build now.
@@stukyu Thank you, I'm glad you found it interesting.
hello, did u mention diameter of the bit and the rpm you were using for this FEED and DOC? i cant go more than 1000mm/min because of many curves and the jitter i get, so im trying to find the proper formula since i get fairy dust instead of chips. No welding or hot endmill but still.. I have to contour cut 3mm sheets, tried 0.5 - 0.75 - 1 - 1.5 DOC but still.. i think ill go full cut with 15000 - 16000rpm dunno why but they gave me 1050 to start with and learn to cut aluminum. its a nightmare
Hi Thanks for commenting. I may not have done, clearly every machine will be a bit different. Typically those fitted with a router spin slower than the spindle I have. As standard I use 3mm diameter bits on sheet up to 5mm thickness as this gives me a wider level of detail, especially on smaller parts. At 3mm diameter I do cut to 3mm DOC sometimes, but I would normally go no deeper than 2mm DOC day to day, in 3mm stock I prefer 2 passes at 1.5mm. With the bits I mention, inexpensive single flute DLC bits, you run them at maximum speed for your machine, in my case 24,000 RPM. These bits do like to advance at speed too, so whatever the fastest feed is. The secret really is that type of bit.
Cutting out a sun shade for a drone remote control in PVC, from an offcut that didn't cover the bed, perfect excuse to use the pressure plate to hold it down more. This was a cheap chinese pressure plate, I got early on with the machine, I've changed the springs and the bottom plate from metal to HDPE. It's now works as intended!
Easy to cut but very messy! I may eventually make them from aluminium, but for now these PVC foam stops will close off sections of our Vac Bed when needed.
One of the benefits of working with metal is the ability to form it into different shapes, without always needing some kind of joint or other fixing, creating useful parts that fulfil customer needs.
Selamat malam
Developing a niche is one of the strongest ways to grow your CNC business.
Not sure what grade Alu this is, certainly isn't 1050 this time, based how it was cutting.
Also a chance to test some fun AI generated music as background for our content.
Something different even if it just the colour!
Please feel free to ask questions if you have already invested in one of these or are considering doing so. 😀
Have you ever thought about adding a vacuum "scoop" opposite the air blower to suck the chips up as they fly? I've always thought it'd be trivial to 3d print one and for this work just a standard shop vac should be plenty because the chip volume is quite low. I don't envy your cleanup after these jobs is all 😄
There is one available for the machine, when videoing it covers the entire cutting view so less interesting to watch and see what's happening. I'm still finding the HDPE chips from some work I did weeks ago, on that other video. But they don't suck up to well so again no point attaching the boot. I tend to use it now only when cutting wood & MDF which is very messy, I prefer sweeping the aluminium chips up and putting them to one side for recycling, ditto some plastic chips. It only takes a moment to sweep up the chips, but it is a workshop not a garage, basement etc so it affords me more lattitude for making a mess. The tube I move in the video is for the vacuum, I have it hanging there so I can suck up the remnants I can't sweep, plus it reaches to some of the floor area.
You need a leaf blower !
LOL I think it made enough mess! I'm still finding chips all over the shop!
By the way folks, if you ever have used the wrong bit, such as a generic carbide, on 1000 series, or indeed any other flavour of aluminium, and you've welded the aluminium to it, do not chip it off or throw the bit away! It's very easy to remove and the bit will be as good as it was before you started. Simply soak overnight in a Sodium Hydroxide or Caustic Soda here in the UK, you only need it deep enough to cover the affected part of the bit. The aluminium will dissolve away. Obviously if you do, handle with care and wear gloves, discard the solution when finished by pouring carefully onto a weed in your garden, it's a great natural weed killer too!
Great tip!
All though this part was a disaster, this showed that my adjustment to the camera bracket, putting it closer to the spindle is giving better video. (Sadly it's still an older GoPro so image quality is another matter).
I noticed your toolpath stops and plunges on each depth change. I think if you don't decelerate and do a ramp plunge instead you might get a longer lifespan out of the cutter and less chatter/better edge finish around the plunge area. Nice video! Where do you source your HDPE?
Thanks for the comment. You don't really need to ramp into HDPE it's so easy to cut, in fact it's so soft that if you cut it slow it just melts together into a bigger mess. It barely touches the tool, unlike the tools I use in aluminium, (which I do ramp into) this one will last a long time unless I do something stupid (which does happen!). My plunges are a bit slow if I'm honest, I used to default to 300, even in alu, it wasn't smart, I reduced default to 150 and maybe could have put it higher here. Trent Plastics is the source I use for HDPE, used them for years on and off and happy to recommend.
@@siukcnc that's good to know! always learning - I love how different materials require such different treatment for the same processes
@@m9workshop One of the best decisions I made was to open our service up to others to work on different materials, rather than just aluminium all the time. More importantly though, how's your machine, did you get it fixed?
@@siukcnc sadly not yet! Just been so busy, and everytime I set aside sometime to work on it something else comes in. You know how it goes...
"promo sm" 😣
There's more to wood working on your CNC, why not have a go with aluminium parts? 😀
Why does it lift up and back down after every pass? Seems very inefficient?
As mentioned in the description, I wasn't going for haste, this was customer supplied profile, I'd rather it was cut right than fast.