Відео

The 1st few inches are how it looks. I sold the car right after this and didn't get a video of the finished seat.

It is just the standard micro 8" sub box. It all comes enclosed and ready to go. If you have an 8" inch sub with a separate box, that's probably the issue. I also cut away the little 1/4 lip or plastic from that insert behind the seat where the front of the speaker sits down in.

Replacing the head unit didn't seem to be an option, nor was it recommended. The stock unit does everything I need it to do.

It could be the AC condenser. But without knowing for sure what part you are referring to, it's hard to say. I suggest looking up a diagram of the engine bay. Or a diagram of the different systems (A/C, breaks, power steering). Those are pretty easy to find online.

What route would you go?

​@@GuatechapinnvCrickets. He went the route of crickets.

just did mine, guess you already got it done but u attach it to the metal clips top of the brake pads

Sorry man. The shop did all of that.

There was no issue with them fitting. You could always pop one panel off and measure the existing speaker & hole. Then compare it to the dimensions of the speakers you are looking at.

There is an adapter harness and a separate line out to the Amp. But the shop did all of that.

@@sheaoutsidethebox do you have a link to the stuff you bought by any chance

@@kaneloc8491 Sorry, I don't. The amp, sub and door speakers all came from Crutchfield. You enter your vehicle info and they can tell you what you need. I think I give the names of everything in this or the door speaker install video. The the audio shop ordered the harness and processor.

For adding a subwoofer only. You may not need one. But yes. The processor makes it possible to keep your factory head-unit and add all the new components.

@@sheaoutsidethebox ohh thank goodness! Im only adding a subwoofer

No. I did not have the JBL system.

JL Audio micro 8". Amazing little sub.

@@sheaoutsidethebox I have the same sub and this little guy is BADASS!!!!!!!!!!! for the size the quality is on point and it shakes the windows for being only an 8

I believe it would. The speaker ports in the door speakers might be a little different, but that's easy to find put using Critchfields online tools or live help. But the amp, sub & processor would almost certainly work.

Yep all this would work, just got my system installed with the LC7i and a Kicker 5 channel. Same sub too.

18" high. 17" wide. The cutout is 8" wide & 6" high. (Or very close to that)

Should I unhook it and sand it off? Could it improve performance?

@@sheaoutsidethebox it will prolly take away hissing. Being grounded is the very most important thing about electrical. Any new grounds that were added I would sand and clean.

@@sheaoutsidethebox Absolutely it will improve performance

Lol

On me I was like wth he talking about

I caught that too. Plus that Kicker amp has Fail-safe Integration Technology which means it has a DSP and LOC built-in, making the LC-7i virtually useless.

Yes. Bypass the sensor like I show in the video. It is a pretty simple process and should work. You might also have to give the car time to cycle through its system check to sense the new sensors or the bypassed sensors. Like driving it for 5 min. But bypassing should work.

@@sheaoutsidethebox new sensors. light still on. bypass sensor light still on?? maybe somthign with the cluster? at this point the actuall brake linings could be getting worn?

@@sheaoutsidethebox just re read your comment going to drive it a bit more

@@startingtech3900 Did you bypass both sensors? Front driver & rear passenger? I am trying to remember, but I am almost sure the break light turned off the next time I started it.

@@sheaoutsidethebox yes I did. Bypassed both sensors. Damn thing is still on. I heard it can be a cluster issue or the brake linings are actually worn down and might need changing?

Yes! Remember you will need upholstery thread. Easy to find on Amazon.

The video shows the 1st few inches. The rest just looked like those 1st few inches.

Rear left= positive-white negative= black Rear right=positive-green negative =blue

My car has this on the passenger seat I’m kinda angry because I feel like someone must’ve had something sharp in their pocket. Is this a common issue?

On the back door yes. I don't think they make correct ones, as the speakers were newer. Maybe they do now. But chopping the wires & direct connecting them was easy enough. With butt connectors or soldier.

Red Wolf makes the proper adapter, available on Amazon for anyone that’s interested! I did the same speaker mod but with Kenwoods, I appreciate the baffle tip for the rears!

Too much talk instead of a demonstration.

The rear speakers were 2x as loud. But they don't produce any real base. The front baffles didn't fit. The window hit them when I rolled it down. I modified them to fit, but it actually made the front speakers less sharp. So who knows? Next time I might try the sticky mats on the interior of the door. www.amazon.com/dp/B0039Z3SRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_iP.7Fb5KDAERQ

@@sheaoutsidethebox Sound deadening was Very important. I did some strips inside each door, and some on the interior side. I also pulled the back panel, and did the back wall. I had a AT Least a 7db drop in cab noise, which then helps audio sound tremendously. The sound deadening breaks up metal vibrations, which are amplifying road noise, as well as unwanted noise from the speakers. That's why strips work well.. unnecessary to cover the whole thing. It was time consuming as it was.. hours. But, SO worth it!

Did you get them from Crutchfield? Are they

Did you get them from Crutchfield? Are they Kicker?

I didn't.

@@sheaoutsidethebox Thanks for the info in the video

There are a few good videos of how to swap those.

You need to upgrade the dash speakers. I replaced all 6 speakers.. The dash upgrade was the most noticible. They are OEM Subaru, made by Kicker. They are plug and play. Took about 20 minutes to replace. What a difference! About $110 for the pair.. no splicing. Plug and play. Gen 3 - Tacoma.

Probably, yes. I changed up the bulbs to make the color and brightness match.

Also. A whole new set on ebay is like 20 bucks. But the set I got was REALLY bright and even hot to the touch.

@@sheaoutsidethebox Would it be possible to give me a link to the eBay listing? I’m not quite sure if these bulbs have another name other than mini bulbs. I try to type that in and I don’t get crap. I got the window switches open but they aren’t the same bulbs. They’re a lot smaller and have a different base compared to the shifter bulb.

@@Noblereach36 www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-Power-Window-Sunroof-Switch-Illuminated-For-Bmw-E30-E24-E28-From-09-1986-/254359163618?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 I just enter BMW e30 window switch and I get several listings