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NYA Garage
Приєднався 5 кві 2008
Fresh build... Major Oil Leak? Mazdaspeed6 // Teardown & Rebuild Pt. 3
I was able to get the engine back together and running! However, with a slight problem.
Переглядів: 892
Відео
In Over my Head? Mazdaspeed 6 // Teardown & Rebuild Pt. 2
Переглядів 1,8 тис.Рік тому
I wish I hit the lotto so I could have more room to put all these... parts. Let's see where this goes and see if I can build a 4-500hp speed6 with an elementary understanding of building engines.
Another Mazda?! Mazdaspeed 6 // Teardown & Rebuild Pt. 1
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Рік тому
Don't ever drink and browse facebook marketplace. It's not good for you... and by 'it' I mean the drinking. Let's all work together on pulling this engine and diagnose whether or not the engine is worth saving and building. The plan is to tear this engine down and throw it back together with forged internals and see if we can make 400-500 AWHP all from my shadetree mechanic 2 car suburban garage.
14-19 Sierra/Silverado NorCal Mod - The Right Way
Переглядів 8 тис.2 роки тому
This is intended for anyone that wants to run tires larger than 33" on their Sierra/Silverado. In order to clear my 35's with a 6" lift, I needed to perform this "NorCal" mod. Since I have access to a welder and was not a fan of how some other NorCal mods were performed... I put my own spin on it.
MX-5 Oil Pump Install... On a budget!
Переглядів 9882 роки тому
Well, this is the whole reason for pulling the motor. I had a substantial leak near the oil pump. I tried replacing the front main seal and oil pan gasket to no avail. Turns out, I think it was leaking due to an oil pan installation error!!
Boost Supporting Mods and Prep... After the fact?
Переглядів 422 роки тому
It's been quite a while since I've made a video due lack of funds, coupled with enjoying the boost and set up as it was. The oil pump has seen better days, so while I'm in replacing that I figure it's also time to start taking it to the next level!
1994 1.8 Miata Turbo (GT3071R)
Переглядів 1,5 тис.4 роки тому
The custom (ebay) turbo kit is working! Besides the clutch slipping and slight boost creep at WOT (38mm wastegate.. soon to be 44mm) it pulls pretty good around 7 psi. More to come!
Miata Resurrection Pt. 4 - Painted
Переглядів 465 років тому
In this episode I finish painting the Miata. Music: GRiZ - Wave Killers
2016-17 Chevrolet Malibu Side Mirror Replacement
Переглядів 46 тис.6 років тому
This is a quick how to on the replacement of a side mirror for the latest generation of Chevrolet Malibu's. This video can also be used as a reference for taking the interior panel off Soundtrack: Never Sleep - Gunnar Olsen Late Night Snack - Gunnar Olsen Syn Cole - Feel Good [NCS Release]
Miata Resurrection Pt. 3 - Bodywork Complete!
Переглядів 3226 років тому
Music: EWN - Feels Rock Angel - Joakin Karud
2000 Jeep Cherokee Flowmaster 50 Series & Cat Delete
Переглядів 6 тис.7 років тому
2000 Jeep Cherokee Flowmaster 50 Series & Cat Delete
2013 Dodge Dart K&N Short Ram Before + After
Переглядів 6 тис.9 років тому
2013 Dodge Dart K&N Short Ram Before After
Savoy Massachusetts trail riding 1/6/13
Переглядів 43011 років тому
Savoy Massachusetts trail riding 1/6/13
How to: adjust your car/truck's E-brake Cable
Переглядів 134 тис.11 років тому
How to: adjust your car/truck's E-brake Cable
How to: Program an Arctic Cat Wireless Key Fob
Переглядів 4,2 тис.11 років тому
How to: Program an Arctic Cat Wireless Key Fob
How to: 05-09 Scion TC Cup Holder LED Mod for $20
Переглядів 25 тис.12 років тому
How to: 05-09 Scion TC Cup Holder LED Mod for $20
First time of the season startup (1986 American Skier)
Переглядів 4,2 тис.13 років тому
First time of the season startup (1986 American Skier)
Chevy k1500 Super turbo Dual exhaust JEGS
Переглядів 3,1 тис.13 років тому
Chevy k1500 Super turbo Dual exhaust JEGS
Man if it had a lean condition. Then definitely the previous owner was flooring it in 5th and 6th gear. Doesn’t help that it still had the stock HPFP.
1 of 500 😍
Did you have to do anything to the oil pump to get it to prime? I'm in middle of build and was not sure if oil pump will self prime with oil or if I need to let it drink some oil on the bench, before install... any thoughts?
Are you able to reuse the exhaust gaskets or do you have to get new ones?
I did not, I bought new ones to be safe
Your PISTONS are put in backwards - the valve cutouts should be facing the front of the engine.
The pistons are not installed backwards, they were marked with an arrow facing "front" when installed. I put the arrow facing the side of the engine with the accessories. Check out the edgeautosport listing for these to see what I mean. SKU 630000C-4
@@nya.garage Good - I have a CX7 2.3L turbo 2010 and have the arrows on the piston too, when pointing to timing chain side, my indents are to the front... so just got a bit worried for you!
@@pingpong9656 You made me second guess myself haha. But, check out 05:12 in the video there's valve cutouts on both sides!! And good stuff, mazda makes some awesome cars
From the picture with the cup you have the seal the right direction tho . Did you put on the RMS right after you put the sealant ? RMS has to touch the wet sealant .
yeah, sorry if I wasn't clear on that, but that image was from when I pulled the engine back out, and installed the seal "correctly". Sealant was applied to the bottom portion where the pan mates to the block
Would of like more information
What kind of information are you after?
Amazing result well done.
I have on in the exact same colour but cylinder 1 left the chat 😢😅
how much did you pay for the car
I am in the process of building my motor. Manley Htuff rods, Mahle 4032 88mm pistons, CST 4 turbo. My question to you is what did you do for the ring gap as well as your main bearings and rod bearings. what brand and size did you use. looking at using the car for a fun car on the street but to be reliable as well. Thank you
Ive hac a few mazda 6s . I love mazdas but terrible car
They need special treatment for sure
That's awesome!!!! What fob did you use?
Check the o2 sensor..that could cause the up and down idle
Idle relearn and throttle position sensor have to be re taught as well
Where did you get the cam phasers?
over at edgeautosport. Search for mazdaspeed6 vvt. It's about $160
@@nya.garage thanks man! Just dropped off my second engine at the machine shop and was wondering the price! I actually know you from TikTok we’ve spoke on there lol
@@Tallaksen74 what’s up 😂 I figured. Hope all goes well at the machine shop man. You getting it sleeved or bored over?
Once getting bored over and one’s just going back mainly stock for my daily with some reinforcement 😎
@@Tallaksen74 let’s go! You’ll have one for play and one for business 😂
I did my speed 6 rebuild with a friend and always ask myself what is the boost the this cars supposed to run from stock … mine is only pulling 8.8 psi if you don’t mind me asking how much is yours pulling
Stock, you should see it hit around 15 PSI. I can reflash mine back to stock and see what it does. I'll do that soon and update you on it. I loaded the OTS 93 STAGE 1 tune preloaded on my AP. Under high load WOT I've actually hit boost cut (overboost) around 21PSI. My guess is it would taper out at higher RPMs if that safeguard wasn't there.
Oh wow , thanks mines won’t pass from 8.8 for some reason and I don’t have now boost leak either . Maybe i should get a pre map see if the helps
@@wanderflores7406 Np, anyway I can help! I just took a look at a datalog where I had the fuel eco tune loaded. (Wastegate commanded closed by controller) So on my factory K04 and my setup with the ported head, intake and VTCS delete, corksport cams, catless DP, I am seeing a peak of 14 PSI @ 4k RPM, 80% Throttle. I think my set up flows too well for the factory tunes because I hit a boost cut around that range. Do you have an Accessport or any way of getting a datalog (OBDII Scanner like a bluedriver)?
Oh ok , so my car is bone stock , I’ll be adding all my parts this winter , I just got a front mount and it went up to 10 when I open full throttle… I just need to add my downpipe and full exhaust and get it tune
@@wanderflores7406 10PSI still seems a bit low. Maybe someone can pitch in here who has experience with the stock engine and boost level. But, to me that seems low. If you want to share your datalogs with me, feel free to join my discord or add me @ lee_t413
That piece you cut out is there to stop the wheels from flying up into the cab in an impact. That’s why most folks leave it.
Hey bro. Im looking at turbocharging my 1.8 nb1. Ive decided i want the 3071r, what did you do for a manifold, ecu, downpipe, intercooler, etc. did you diy or is there a kit i havnt been able to find. Would love to know. Cheers
Pointless to put a turbo of that size if the engine is stock. Unless you’re gonna do forged internals in future. Go with a kraken low mount kit. With a efr6258 or even a gtx2860. You’re gonna make good power and have a killer spool. Piece it together ;)
The 3071r with a small hot side (0.48A/R) does well on the 1.8. You’ll see about 10lbs of boost around 4k rpm WOT.
Manifold I went with is a modified CXRacing with a 44mm wastegate Vband welded on and a TiAL to match. 3” catless exhaust out the back with a Magnaflow straight through is what I run now. Not terribly loud and has a nice tone to it. ECM is a Megasquirt 3 DIYPNP. Charge piping is all custom as well, and same with the intercooler. All in back in 2018-2019 I spent about $2,000 total getting my Miata turbo’d with mix matched parts. If I were to do it again, the turbo is an eBay China charger which is still fine til this day, but it’s a journal bearing. I’d recommend a genuine 3071R again, with a smaller hot side and you’ll have a good set up for stock internals. It’ll leave you with headroom for when you want to progress and go forged down the road.
if you are going to build this motor DO NOT USE STOCK INTERNAL parts like the rods and pistons and head studs L19 head studs, manley tuff two rods and wiesco pistons, cometic head gasket depends on your clearance after shaving the head. king bearing and arp mains and rod bolts +625 are good as well..
New vid coming soon with the engine build. Manley H-Beams, Manley Platinum pistons, ARP Mains and head studs, Autotech HPFP, Balance shaft delete, etc. All is done, just need to edit the video and export!
its actually running and driving now, too sounds healthy and pulls pretty good. Chasing a few leaks... one is an oil leak and I am unsure if its coming from the rear main or not. Going to have to dig into that a little more before I run it anymore.
if you have any question about this motor or car for that matter dont hesitate i am one of the first to build one of these motors.
Thanks for the great video! Made the job so much easier.
Subscribed. I have a Whitewater Pearl on Panda interior 06’ that is my fair weather daily driver. These cars rock! Is that a Miata in the driveway?
Yessir! These cars are great, very underrated. I love the way it drives! Also, yes that is a Miata. What do you have done to yours?
I have a 06 ms6 w/ bad engine & 06 mazda 6i 2.3 w/ good engine but bad pcm. Can I use the good engine from my 6i 2.3 to replace my ms6 after some swaps?
I'm glad I found your video. I have one of these I need to put back together and it's overwhelming.
I bought a Black speed 6 last year for 2000K. I was an abanded title...Me and the mechanic though it needed just a new High Presure Fuel Pump....Turned out it needed the following...High Pressire Fuel Pump, New Turbo, Timing Chain, Recircualting Valve, Rear Engine Mount, Rear Diff Plate, New Rear Struts, Front Break Pads, Drive Shaft Boot. Soo. I added a Cork Sport Stage 2 Short Air Intake and a Tanabe Front Strut tower, new fluids...Rust because it was originally a New Jersey...The engine is running and its almost done...It'll be a sweet car...Can't wait to drive it. I'm going to do a tune later this year and a Kick Ass video on it!! Keep the Car the are Uber rare and just awesome!
where did you get all your parts from I need the same things 🥲
@@whatdatruck5673 Most of them from Corksport
@@jedidiahsteele7847 totally agree man!! If you have the patience, the drive and time to learn this platform its a very cool car. Parts are becoming a bit tough to source but, keep in mind engine parts off a CX-7 with the 2.3 are mostly interchangeable for the engine, and of course the mps3... Mazda 6 (non MPS) with the 2.3l share some of the same parts as well, such as door seals, splash guards, window seals, etc. etc. You can find some similar parts if you need them from a junkyard. I mentioned this earlier in another comment, I wish I sources a 2.5l Duratec motor, rather than going with another 2.3 but.... future state. Not letting go of this car :) Good luck with the build!!
Thanks for this video but it's very difficult to change the mirror some other cars r more easier no need to open all that this one is very hard taking lot of time i will change my mirror also in coming up days and front head light also broken need to change need a lot of work and time thanks
Where in JP did you order the engine from?🙂
from a company called JDM New York
If I were to do it over again, I'd probably source a 2.5L Duratec bottom end. Better design, cheaper and the 2.3L head bolts right up.
Wish I saw this video few months ago… was pulling my engine on a ms6 and it was my first ever time doing something to cars like that:) so much fun, engines in and waiting for tune
Awesome!! Fun car to learn on. There’s lots to learn too. Glad to see another mps6 fan keeping theirs on the road
hey man car noob here about to pull my engine without much knowledge and hoping to reverse engineer. Willing to do some more in-depth explanations of what you’re doing from taking the bumper off to the placements of seals. The vvt actuator explanation really helped me understand my own car as i believe it is an answer I needed. Love the videos and thank you for your time.
@@eloc2314 Best advice I can give anyone looking to get into this stuff for the first time is... take your time, no need to rush, don't work on your car if you're not in the mood.... and lastly there's a fix for any issue or hurdle. There's two ways you could pull the motor. 1. is by the method I've shown, removing the front end. 2. you could drop the front subframe. This method requires you to (in my opinion) have a lift. A two post lift would make working on this car a dream. Follow me on instagram if you have one, I can help you out with your car in my DM's: @nya.garage
Hey do you check your comments? I have a question…
I could really use your advice on replacing the radiator.
Sure man, what’s up? You looking to replace the radiator in the vehicle?
plug the rod holes, and don't smooth the runners to much and careful with egr bump
Good advice!
Why shouldn’t you smooth the runners too much ?
I’ve heard this from more than one person. You don’t want to polish out the sanding scratches to a mirror shine because having those tiny imperfections cause turbulence in the intake, which leads to better atomization.
@@nya.garage awesome, thank god I came across this before I finished the job. Any idea if there are actual power gains from this ?
@@alexsegura9012 I seem to be having overboost issues with a stock k04 after doing this, and catless DP. Something tells me the 2.3 flows better now lol. It hits over 20psi when I really mat the pedal and it’s in a low RPM high load. Good or bad issue either way you look at it haha
You patching the VTCS rod holes?
I am now, haha
@@nya.garage not needed FYI... I have dyno proven 10hp with 3 psi less on a stock cars.
@@quickspeed6 I ended up not patching the rod holes
Whats vtcs
It’s a set of butterfly valves in the intake manifold, used for cold starts and running the engine lean for a faster warmup. There may be other uses of vtcs but, not too sure.
Did it leak? Looks like you were missing the o ring on the oil pump before install…
I did not capture that piece now noticing. Good catch. I did in between cuts throw that O-Ring in. PSA - don’t forget the O-Ring people!!!!
The welder inside of me tells me that’s gonna break from vibration. Would have been better off rounding the weld instead of grinding it flat. I’ll give you props for cutting that new of a truck up though!! 😎😎😎
Also I’m not being negative or an asshole.. dropped a like on the vid as well 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
You’ll be the first to know if it does crack
Maybe check the air on the tires
I think the muffler bearings went out, too 😂
Nice job on the video! Like mentioned though there is a way without removing the whole door panel. You dont need Gorilla glue. Take the door panel loose in upper corner so you can remove upper panel and upper trim loose to get the bolts. Replace and reattach loosened trim and panel. Just a bit of a shorter version!!
did you need to run a programmer? or did it not set codes without the cat?
Depends if you have a California compliant Jeep or not. You can crawl under your jeep and check. Look to see if you have an O2 sensor after (post) the secondary/downstream catalytic converter.
@@nya.garage i do have the downstream . so i dont want to run into issues running lean
@@aguysweekend you may be able to trick it with an "anti fouler plug"
I’d pay you to do this to my truck lol
Anyone following this for the mod should using something like Eastwood inner frame coat with their flexible spray nozzle to coat the inside of the fender. After cutting and welding you’ll have bare metal still showing on the inside
Good thought, Ryan. I’m in the south so rust isn’t too big of a concern.
You made that entirely too difficult! you did not have to take off that hold door!!!
Did you habe to modify or adjust anything for the flowmaster 50 to fit? Best sounding exhuast sound on XJ I've ever heard. Liked and Subbed!
I thought I would add my 2 cents and explain a slightly easier way. First off, I have total respect for anyone who takes their personal time to make a video to make life easier for others. You Sir rock! It bothers me when critics take the time to find fault..but offer no solutions. I just replaced my driver side mirror on a 2018 Malibu and it took far less time as I didn’t remove the door panel. In order to do so you need to, “gorilla” the plastic panel immediately above the door panel. This panel is easy to identify as its a continuous piece of plastic that runs above the window door panel and into the corner where the 3 mirror bolts are hidden. In order to soften the plastic I ran the car defogger on high temp for 10 mins to allow the vents to warm up and soften the plastic (I live in Canada and it was -10C when I did this outside). I guess if you were careful you could also use a heat gun….with care… Starting approx 12” above the mirror gently remove the interior plastic trim and gently pull the lower plastic moulding up and away. It’s all one piece. You need to do this forcefully but gently and a small amount of prying may be necessary. I am 58 years old and my grip strength isn’t what it was as a teenager…but that’s a different topic!. If I can do it most anyone reading this comment probably can. The moulding is held in position by 1 clip and the pressure squeeze of the existing door panel. If you wiggle it around for a few minutes it will eventually come up and free and expose the 3 bolts and connector. 2 of the bolts are easy to get at but I had to use a ratchet wrench for the third. Just be careful when removing the bolts and lose them down inside the door panel. Use of many words that would not be appropriate in church will follow if you drop them. Replacement of the mirror is exactly the opposite and very straightforward….just take your time. Again, I am not criticizing the author of this video…it’s awesome. But this explanation may save someone a whole lot of time. Take care all.
Great tone an overall sir! Sounding GUUD.
Where can ibuy them
Check out car-part.com or eBay
Thanks bro, appreciate it!
Just watched your video ! Good scenes !!
You’re the GOAT!!! Where did you buy the parts??
eBay!
Nice video thanks
Most of my clips were left in the door when I took off the panel. They had to be pried out. The window panel tool kit seems to be sufficient. The red colored clips, which was shown in the video at 7:20, were damaged when I pried them out. I got some aftermarket ones from ebay, but I'm not sure if they are good or not. The yellow and gray ones were pried out without problems. I guess the red ones were constructed differently. I would not recommend doing it without taking off the panel, because then how would you pry the clips out, unless you are okay with leaving the panel loose.
This is very informative and I had to watch it a couple of times while I was taking off the door panel. I did the passenger side and everything is the same. There are only two triangle clips, which are shown at 5:56, plus the two metal clips which are all what hold the control panel down. This is a little bit confusing. The triangle clips are where the finger point at in the video at 5:56. The other plastic parts, that extrude from the control panel and are bigger, are guides/not clips and they fit into holes very loosely. The prying can easily bend or break the triangle clips, if the pryer lands on them, which can be avoided if you are careful and aware where the triangle clips are. The prying should aim at expanding the gap, and then the triangle clips can be disengaged by lifting up the control panel very slightly.