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Nice work! I dont know if I will ever get to doing that for each machine but I may add that to my someday maybe list.

​@@TigermothRacingTV 👍 To be honest, sometimes in the past I've forgotten to remove the chuck key from the chuck, but luckily nothing bad happened other than a broken window. That got me thinking about it and I decided to make a change before I had to pull the chuck key out of my dog😁 ​​or something much worse would happen. I remembered my training workshop 50 years ago. One of my classmates had a terrible accident while using the bench drill. He lost an eye because he left the chuck key in the chuck. Since I only have keyless chucks, no change was necessary. One day the lathe came into my workshop and everything was fine for a few months. At some point I forgot to remove the chuck key from time to time, which finally culminated when I shot the window pane. This was the day to do something. I didn't come up with the idea described above myself, but saw it here on UA-cam. The guy who inspired me did some nice work on the lathe and always removed the chuck key to turn the lathe on with it. I thought it would be a good idea to set up my lathe in the same way, but there were two problems that bothered me with this solution: one was having to shut down the entire machine to use the chuck key, and two - which makes no sense - the chuck key could be removed while the machine was running. So I made further modifications by just switching the motor power and built a switch that doesn't release the chuck key when on, just like the key in our cars. That's fine with me. Come on and get over your inner bastard. Don't put it on your "someday maybe" list, but instead take the initiative. You can buy a window pane, but not an eye, right? Best whishes to You and take care of yourself! Bruno

@Neue-Werkstatt-BM lol, much appreciated. I am comfortable with it on my someday maybe list because I have 9 machines that could use that system and it will be years before I have the time to even think about spending the 2 weeks it would take to retrofit them all. Probably will never do it. I simplify the problem by not letting the employees that can't manage the keys run machines that need keys. I worry less about myself because I have yet to forget the key, but thats not a good answer. I hope in the future that machines will come wired with protective key circuits but I doubt they will. Most will not. Its really about how you work and if you can pay attention to whats really going on.

Excellent comments and thank you for the insights. I am mostly familiar with the machines and vises redily available in the US. I will have to look up and check out some of the machines you mentioned that I have not seen. The R8 spindle is old school at this point and not as rigid as the CAT style taper tooling but it has a few advantages that make it faster to change tools for prototyping work. I imagine eventually it may slowly dissapear or be replaced with an upgrade.

Another thing to keep in mind is that in the US, the smallest machines (benchtop and small floor mills) tend to be R8 but pretty much all the industrial tool room/prototyping machines are sold with CAT/BT30 spindles like PROTO TRAK, FRYER, MILLTRONICS, etc.

Interesting. I did not know they were custom fitted. I used to work with a guy that was a master at rebuilding Bridgeport spindles but I did not get any of the secrets about the process. I have been told that Hardinge would customize the bearing fit in their spindles and that is one of the reasons most people are not willing to try rebuilding them on their own.

Yeah the pricing is wonky. The 3M ones are the best but the cheap ones work, they just wear out faster. Sometimes amazon will make a mistake and accidentally double your order on things like this that come 2 in box.

@@TigermothRacingTV nice ! What about a cheap buffing machine ? Any recommendations for something like cleaning up a putter ?

We use a 6in bench grinder from Harbor Freight for small wheels, works great.

@@TigermothRacingTV so the 3m works on the 6 inch ??

Yeah or the buffing motor.

I would think almost all? Having a mill and a lathe are the most critical machines to be able to make most things. You can mill on a lathe if you have no choice but I would not choose to do it that way.

Then you may need to get a different chuck with a back plate?

​@@TigermothRacingTV It's possible, but I'd not going to the middle of the lathe 😅

Yes of course. This video is only about how to cut a tap out.

Glad to hear it!

@@TigermothRacingTV you can see what I did mine in the video I just posted.

We could do something like that, maybe send us a message on Instagram. It might be best if you ship the chucks to us to make sure you order the ones you want.

@@TigermothRacingTV ok what is your instagram

Yes we need to do a follow up. We actually ended up returning the Gator chucks and have been happier with CME chucks. I need to show that and point that out.

There is always a use for set true chucks no matter your jaws. A nice hard jaw set ground concetric may not be concentric everywhere on the scroll. Really, people tend to obsess too much over hard jaw concentricity when we can just cut soft jaws and have better clamping grip whenever needed. The set true adjustment is just the fastest way to make it "perfect" with no cutting or changing of the jaws, (least work).

@@TigermothRacingTV Well I always tend to look at the product as it was intended, and for a self-centering 3-jaw obviously 'perfect' centering was never a (design) goal. Now, a good quality chuck achieves like 20 to 30 microns (mm) TIR which is fine and great for any normal job, I have a machine at work which is out by like 0.2 mm and that can be a bit of a nuisance. My main concern with boring hard jaws is not 'perfect' centering, it's the bellmouthing correction. Having it centering well after a boring job I consider a bonus. I have chucks of 'A' brands like Forkardt and Rohm as well as 'B' like Bison and none of them have left the factory 'bellmouth corrected' (as far as I can tell) which I find disappointing to say the least. In fact my Bison 200 mm 4-jaw is bellmouthed so bad I have to go back and measure, it looks is if the jaws were counter-corrected, LOL. At work I program and operate two Okuma CNC lathes both running Kitagawa chucks which also air gap in the front. Work to be done there. My only goal is stability and the chuck jaws are an obvious weak link. When you want 'perfect' (re-)centering use a 4-jaw or bored soft jaws. I tend to avoid them on the CNCs because of the hassle involved, most of the times we can get away with the hard jaws and protective material like sheet metal between the jaws and the product in second operation situations. Obviously here you want the chuck to center within 0.03 TIR mm or so which the Kitagawas do.

I see, yes the bell mouth is an issue. I have noticed on some chucks the bell taper can be worse if you are clamping partially on a part and not using the whole length of the jaw. At that point I think it is usally from play in the jaw channels. Taper from wear is certainly annoying and a nice cut to freshen them up is ideal.

@@TigermothRacingTV The worst case actually is using the whole length of the jaws and then do heavy machining and parting off. It's been explained already in many videos (as well as in my blog) that essentially it's having shorter jaws and working with a larger overhang. Both are stability killers.

Sorry I wish we made it more clear but you missed the point. I was showing one way to get a tap out that you cannot grab with any tool.

Lol, interesting! Sometimes anchors can solve some big problems if you don't have big equipment around. Just don't forget that the anchors are not rated for human life safety situations.

Not sure if Scotchman is available in Maharashtra, you could contact them but there are lots of manufacturers of ironworkers in India like Bhavya Machine Tools in Gujarat.

Probably, although there might be a higher chance of cracking the brick?

@@TigermothRacingTV thanks, seen some of these today and wasn’t sure. Appreciate the feedback.

Glad it was helpful!

Lol, because of too much stuff? Allot has changed in the last 2 years, it was hard back then, the shop looks completely different now, we need to do an update.

Great to hear, Thank You!

I miss those days of rc vehicles that were just fun. I want to make some vehicle kits like that. These modern cars are made to go 100 MPH.

Lol, I believe it is a problem that affects everyone wether they will admit it to themselves or not. When you finally get to work in a space where 95% of stuff is where it is supposed to be and easy to get you will really feel the difference and never go back. I am still pushing to make our shop better, it does not quite match my vision of it but we will get there in the next year or so. It takes little actions every day to maintain it and make progress. It feels like allot of work because it is, but the only way through is through. We just have to do it. It is totally worth it. I think that's where people go wrong is they think the work required is not worth it.

@@TigermothRacingTV another point you hit dead on is investment. I really believe a bit of time up front, or when things are slow pays you back in the future and it’s cumulative. And you don’t start a project already in a frustrated state. Let the project frustrate you not the shop 😀

Yes good point, the work is hard enough and needs and deserves all your attention. Anything that takes away your attention is a waste.

Yes exactly. Pretty much all steel taps can be cut with carbide. A Carbide tap is probably a different problem.. EDM maybe.

@@TigermothRacingTV terimakasih atas saran nya bang, karena saya baru saja mematahkan TAP spiral berbahan HSS, mungkin akan saya coba menggunakan End Mill Carbide .

Great to hear! Let us know how you like it.

That's a tough one. I would consider doing the same with a mag drill although the speed may be too slow and if you don't have a milling machine you are not likely to have a mag drill ether?

Thank you.

Yes it seems they were very popular as there are still lots of them around. All you need is the right leverage and turns out a 2ft handle is pretty perfect.

Thank you! What do you men by "handle for A axis"?

@@TigermothRacingTV Handel to control the X Axis movement

One thing to remember is that a bench top mill takes up almost the same floor space as a knee mill. So if you were to go with the bench top mill there is usually a non negotiable factor involved like getting it in a basement or other moving restrictions or rigid space restrictions. The heavier mills will always cut nicer and more quickly.

@TigermothRacingTV thank you. This helps even more.

Hey Beni! There is a single tapered square hole about 3 inches deep. Same as the holes in the front and back of the feet.

Do you still have Big Blue?

@@TigermothRacingTV I still have and use the blue anvil but I don't know if it deserves the monikor big compared to yours. I'm currently working on a 360 degree rotating locking stand for my Hay Budden.

Very cool. I would love to see your stand design. In my mind your blue anvil is giant, I was not into blacksmithing at all back then so didn't know what I was looking at. I have not started my stand ideas yet. It has been living on a furniture dolly for several years now. Usable but not great.

The youtube spam bots keep flagging my link so I'll sent you a picture of it instagram. My workspace is right up against a wall so it's useful to be able to turn the anvil to access different sides. I already have the big heavy wall tube, it's just a matter of finding a way to make a nice smooth bend for the receiver. I might end up cobbling together a slip roller for it. If you're just looking to get up and running, a screwed together 4x4 artificial stump is just about as good as any other stand design.

Excellent! That is a breath of fresh air to hear from you. I keep telling everyone that they have to do what works for them and stop worrying about what everyone else is doing. If it indeed works and you like it then do it.

Yeah its a rudimentary tool. Best for getting you close so you can then use a more precision tool if necessary.

Thank you for the insights. I ask myself the same questions. For me, I have never had a problem remembering to respect tools like this because I have some kind of "permanent fear" for lack of a better description and I have just left that fear intact and have never forgotten a tool in a moving machine that I can think of. So this is not a problem for me as an individual but I have been training some people new to machining especially in the past few years and it is painful to watch them struggle with this even after multiple instructions. I have concluded that for some people, probably most people, that the safety mechanisms are the best option for them.

It is important to use flat tip setscrews to avoid any marring but even the marring is not a big deal. Remember that the setscrews are contacting the backplate in the same spot every time you adjust it so any marring is just re-engaged with as you "buck" it around.

When drilling overhead the dust mostly falls out on its own. One trick I like is to keep a can of air duster in your anchoring tool kit so you don't have to lug around an air hose if one is even available. Mainly, having the hole clean helps the anchor bite into the material directly and reduces slippage of the anchor when load is applied.

Good points and I agree, always wipe the taper of your spindle before inserting a new tool, especially when cutting messy materials. It is an automatic habit for me on the TRAK mill. Most VMCs these days have positive pressure air purge on the taper for this very reason..keeps them clean.

Excellent choices, glad to hear!

Old America is best if you know what to look for and how to adjust it. Most old mills have not had their Gibs adjusted in decades and doing that will tell you allot about their condition.

Its mist coolant, the coolant is mixed with the air and that gives you fresh coolant/lube on the drill every time you peck automatically.

My mistake, you are correct, on cast iron I will sometimes use compressed air. Just enough to get the chips out of the cut so you are not re-cutting them, and if possible I will mount the vacuum head so it picks up the chips as they are made. You really do not want to breathe cast iron dust and you do not want to use coolant because it will make the cast iron dust/chips turn rock hard in your machine.

I agree. There are lots of reasons not to use a 6 jaw chuck. I think in general for tool guys they have a certain appeal because they look cool for the most part. I ended up returning these chucks because I was so disappointed with a few little problems and they were so dirty inside. I bought the ones I needed from another brand, CME Tools and they have been excellent.

@@TigermothRacingTV I’m surprised though. Gator chucks have a good rep and they’re good mid to highish end products. Possibly the CI body chucks aren’t made to the standards their forged steel body models are.