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My 18 ford focus the pigtail plug on the alternator has a single wire on the plug. How does that work? Would it still be pcm controlled? Smart charge?

I got a suggestion for GM stop painting the frame and then grounding the harness.

Great Video and very informative, 1 question on duty cycle - as they are ground switched, should the duty cycle be reversed when scoping the signals?

Hello, Thank you for sharing such detailed info! Currently, I am working on a GM (Holden) Captiva CG CX 2.0L Diesel and the charging system has an issue. Vin: KL3CD26RJ9B265679 If you have any information at all for the Known Good outputs for the F and L Terminals, the B+ Terminal, or for the known good output for the alternator, it would be immensely helpful if you could possibly share them, or make a separate video. Thank you again! Kind regards,

great video.

Is there a reason or an advantage teaching conventional theory over election theory? Very good presentation CHEERS

I placed a volt meter on my altenator everything appeared normal until i placed altenator under load and noticed variation from 12 to 14 volts give or take. Was not consistent reading as compared to wifes car different animal used for comparison. Should it be a steady reading???

So if the PCM is constantly monitoring the battery state of charge and notes the battery SOC when the engine was shut down, will putting a maintenance charger on the battery confuse or affect the PCM?

Where can I get this "GM book" you referred to at 12:20? I am a recovering mechanic and remember when an alternator was designed to put out 14.7v in any condition, all day long. I find this new technology fascinating. Thanks for the video. Cheers

Great video, what if you unplug genmon and gencom from alternator and on idle is 12v but when revs it then is 14v, on idle everytime 12v not charge at all

If the commanded output can change at any time, it would be better to take the voltage measurements across the alternator and the battery at the same time and then compare. Although this would require an Oscilloscope or two DMMs. The Ford B+ feed has two 12AWG fusible links in parallel, perhaps this was an attempt to increase the useful life of the fusible links? The real question though is what is the failure mode or a fusible link? If the link is completely severed than it is an open circuit, if it is partially melted it will present a higher resistance.

Just realized you guys misspelled computer in your title Comptuter. Although it is a tutorial so it kind of fits. Great video though. I link to it often.

Just found this and is great so informative, thank you

Do away with this crap & run a one wire alternator.

Can you force the battery to charge by turning the headlights heated screens on etc? (Ford)

Seems to contradict what I am seeing after installing new alternator on 2003 Ford Expedition. GENCOM always displays a square wave typically around 8.6V, 60% duty cycle. GENMON shows around 8-9V DC return, no square wave. 14.2V at the battery. Connections between alternator and PCM check out at well under 0.5 ohms, no sign of wire chafing issues. PCM was swapped out, made no difference. OEM alternator was 2L7Z10346BA, replaced with Ultima R112019B. 1st replacement alternator showed a 170 Hz square wave. I thought it must be defective, returned and swapped. 2nd replacement alternator about the same result except 130 Hz square wave. So why a DC return on GENMON instead of a square wave?

This was the best explanation of a Ford Smart Charge that I've heard!

I watched this because I just had to swap out a battery that lost a cell. The new battery stopped holding a charge at about 9 months so I replaced it. I'm a car guy, and have been for years. I added the volt meter to the dash information screen and all it did was confuse me since the voltage was all over the place. This answered my questions about my 2018 Chevrolet Duramax. It's OK, old dog needed to learn new tricks.

Is it possible to get training manuals and or booklets. Thanks Mike R.

thank you for providing this presentation, for those who need it... but this man needs to learn how to finish his sentences. anyone unfamiliar with these circuits and applications should find another video

Thanks 👍

Thanks 👍 Great tutorial From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

Good Video - i'll ask - all this "One of a Kind Charging System" = to what? Create more billable hours for FORD dealers? To save .005 Miles Per Gallon by running the Alternator "Less" = really/are you kidding me! The drama from this vehicle is unbearable..2016 F150, 2.5L, 119k - needs a new alternator $700+ / my Nissans have run for over 200k Miles on the same alternator,.. Fond On Road Dead........

Incredible video! Thanks so much for sharing

Dumbest b.s. ever invented next to def regen and the dfm/afm b.s..

12.30.21. @ 5:23 Silver has the best conductance, Gold does not corrode.

Guys I have a 2004 Mazda Axela. My battery light came on while driving. Did a voltage test on it found out that the alternator is not charging the battery. Did a code test, got this code P2503, charging system voltage low. Did further testing then found out that two pins in the PCM is sending the wrong volts to the alternator🤷🏽‍♂️

Don't understand why the 128hz freq. it's standard. So does this frequency change depending on charging systems parameters or is dependent on who made the alternator?

the video image is too poor, you need to fix it more

Great video

As a former Ford dealer tech ('79-'94) I was not familiar with this newer system. Thanks to this awesome video, I am now. Thanks so much for sharing this vital information!

This guy is very sharp & knows the discussed material . I'm just sick at ford...lol

Regardless of the complaints , thanks for the info. It has been enlightening

Thats a great explanation on the how it works & how it is different than standard charging system, but why on earth was it engineered this way. Whats the real benefit, other than having to take it back to dealer for service? It really can be so much simpler. Plus, all this high tech & then use crappy wires within the system that won't outlast other components? Whats the advantage here? .. see 1st assumption as of why above.

Would like to know why Ford decided they had to do this, but I liked the informative video.

Thanks for the video. Im a non tech dummy and I've taken useful information from this presentation.

Randomly mk3 focus today voltage drops to 11.15v reported via forscan app and -6ah draw whilst running. No battery light. Vehicle now won't turn over battery 11.79v. Can I assume a reasonable course of action would be to attempt to pull smart change cable and see if fail safe kicks in and give me 13.8v before removing alternator and having it tested.

The most unuseful charging system in the world. Exactly NO reason to complicate it that much. YOU ONLY NEED TO CHARGE A DAMN BATTERY!!! A lot of Ford's have a ton of problems because of this idiotic system. Ford in general is a crapy car. Stay way from them.

I have been trying to find info on the BCM programing for Lead Acid VS AGM batteries in newer GM's. Are the charging rates different in the BCM. I installed a AGM in place of a Lead Acid and it appears that the system changed charging rates slightly. Does it "know" it's a AGM or is it solely based on battery voltage. More video like these.

These videos are EXTREMELY informative thank you!

Very very informative lecture, Again and again THANKS A LOT REMY for sharing it with us.

These videos are a great resource for anyone interested in the minutiae of this system. Thank you!

Again and again very informative lecture, Thank u very much Remy Garage.

Much Thanks to Remy products for uploading this priceless lecture, This kind of quality teaching and knowledge makes me urged to consider their products.

Under the condition of KOEO, how can the L be 0 volts and the F be 3.53V? When I tested my vehicle they were both 0 V with KOEO. The below article mentions, A faulty alternator may not be able to comply with the PCM’s commands and its F terminal duty cycle readings may be very erratic. My L terminal voltage is stable, but my F terminal ranges KOEO 0V, KOER-loadsOFF several fluctuation 3.85-5.53 V, KOER-loadsON several fluctuation 6.39-10.44 V. Would F terminal voltage fluctuation likely be diode AC ripple, a regulator going bad, or a bad ground? www.motor.com/magazine-summary/trouble-shooter-july2015 What (if any) affect does the bad diode AC ripple have on DC measurements? Does it make the alternator DC output fluctuate a lot? I have a 2006 Chevy truck. No illuminated check engine light, but turns on when KOEO. <1/10 of 1% occurence of the service charging system DIC message, but goes off when I turn off engine and when restarted it doesn't come back on. No flickering with engine off and starts without hesitation. Only With engine running the interior, exterior, and dash lights flicker, and the dash voltage meter fluctuates constantly but it's not twitchy; the needle just won't stay in the same place for very long but never goes to the areas marked red. The test machine at O'reilly shows "replace" battery but the battery starts it fine after 2 weeks of no driving, and the charging system tested okay. Also tested with my Innova 3140 and after 10 alternator tests it resulted in a charging high, but I wasn't able to repeat that result. I don't have an oscilloscope or an RMS multimeter. I've used a basic multimeter to check voltage at battery, at alternator, voltage drop on negative and positive at idle, 1500, and 2000; I've compared to a Ford Ranger and Buick Park Avenue which show very stable voltage readings at idle, 1500, 2000, and back to idle. Voltage drops were 0.02 V on the ground and 0.13-0.15 on the positive. Do these low numbers rule out bad grounds? The problem-Chevy has voltages that keep changing at idle with loads 14.19-14.84 V (battery) 14.36-15.06 V (alternator). With loads at 1500rpm 14.49-14.56 V (battery) 14.68-14.76(alternator). With loads at 2000rpm 14.49-14.62 V (battery) 14.69-14.80(alternator). I repeated the voltage test at the alternator after a 1500, and 2000rpm and found in the 13 seconds after returning to idle the voltage went from a high of 14.93 to a low of 13.89. I recorded and watched frame by frame. During the first second changes were 14.77, 14.93, 14.43, 14.49, 14.19. During the 9th second 14.11, 14.08 V. During the 10th second it was 14.84, 14.96 During the 11th second 14.02, 14.64, 14.92 V. Changed a total of 37 times in 13 seconds. Does this seem like a regulator or a diode issue? I back probed the L lamp(Brown) KOEO 0V, KOER-loadsOFF 3.36-3.43V, KOER-loadsON 3.67V. The PCM plug F feedback(Gray) KOEO 0V, KOER-loadsOFF several fluctuation 3.85-5.53 V, KOER-loadsON several fluctuation 6.39-10.44 V. Would F terminal voltage fluctuation likely be diode AC ripple, a regulator going bad, or a bad ground? I don't have a misfire, but would a bad ground result in a misfire?

Priceless ,what a material what a presenter, Thank u Thank u very much.

Thanks. That was very informative with detailed information. Who knew so much went into a alternator.

recently had a error code P0621 with my VE SSV holden commodore running a L98. so after 6-7 weeks of scouring the internet, reading workshop manuals etc I slowly started to get my head around how the charging system worked but still couldn't find any good info on diagnosing the problem, until I found your tutorial videos, Just a big thankyou on your excellent training videos and information. not often people pass on the knowledge for free these days, keep up the good work 👍

Do you recommend motocraft or what because I put 2 in. 1st on battery light dim and did not see these tests. 2nd one did not get the 13 volts after disconnecting the plug. I do not want to keep doing it. 2.5 hours of labor.

Invaluable video! Many thanks for posting it for us DIY folks!