Відео

Using red high heat resistant silicone is very smart ! You just made my day , because i have nothing to do and have some of this silicon lying around uncured!

It sounds good until you realize these cabinets aren't mini arcades rather just NES roms

looking at building one of these nice idea. Did you open holes in the plastic tub by the fan or are the vent you speak of the only open seal in the tote?

I hope this works I'm tearing up just thinking of all the music i made and its all in there.

Great video! DIY really is the way to go most of the time for me. I got 2 questions- first, did you manage to evenly-dehydrate the filaments? I assume that the spools won't move unless ur printing, so it might dry more the part thats closer to the heater than the other sides. Second, did you try other materials like nylon? Which I read need around 80+ celcius

I was about to sell my modded Artist D. But rather i will build this. Looks sick.

Is the battery for GPD Win Max 2 2022 compatible w/ the 2023 version and vice versa?

Where is tetris?

I wired up the jumpers to the d-pad on my keyring. Hold a direction when you boot, and it works great. I wonder if you could do this for units with more than 4 ROMs by incorporating the action buttons too...

I still play this from time to time

thx for your video, i build one myself

I took inspiration from your earlier videos and went total jank. Using a cardboard wine box, 2 120v "500" watt heaters, with built-in fans, from Amazon and a 10 amp temperature controller, also from Amazon, I was able to dry ABS at 75 C. For insulation, I used a drop cloth from Harbor Freight, folded and draped over the box.

So I bought the eibos dryer. It cost about 25usd delivered from aliexpress, and only uses a power cord, not a brick.

How do you lock it

Is that pla or abs?

I love this you show sale them as a side business

This is genius for anyone living in a colder climate and doesnt have a dedicated snake room. Thank you for this!

So the My Arcade game you show with the two buttons included is actually a Bubble Bobble. Since Bubble Bobble is not among the 6 games chooseable for the Pac-Man unit, I suppose it belongs to a different set of games included in those units. Could you find out which games are in that set? It looks like the My Arcade unit uses NES games which of course have been around for a long time, while the Tiny Arcade units have their own, less capable hardware with newly programmed ports, which you can tell by the fact that the games have a lower resolution and framerate (does that hardware support sprites at all?) and don't look that arcade-accurate generally.

Just got around to wiring up everything and all is good except one ornament doesn't work with the 6VAC power supply. It's the borg cube that talks when turned on. I verified the socket I plugged it into had power but no joy. I had also made a series connection for two spinners and tried plugging it into that which also didn't work. I still have one old set of lights that works and when I plug it in there it still works so I know it's not bad. Dang!

This is an interesting camera. I don't have an idex but i do need to inspect my Prusa xl nozzle before printing in case it needs to be cleaned might be use full for that application

Now that's a cool idea!

awesome instructions. Thanks

Does it work wihtout battery and with charger plugged in?

Bogus. Didn't work. Game never changed. All jumpers or any combination even no jumper was same game.

Thanks for posting this. I've been searching for an AC power supply for the ornaments and had not been able to find one.

The best way i found to do this is to put the molds and silicone in to soapy water and then put silicone into the mold.

Thats a pretty smart idea!

Cool IDEX printer! I am in the same boat. Ember Prototypes also sent me a demo unit. I am very happy with CXC tool!

Glad to hear you found it useful and easy to use 😊 thanks for making a review on it - happy new year 🎊

Great project!! Could you make a step by step video? How to set up the software and implement sounds and images? Or would you share your image?? 🙏

I busted my game on the count of you. I'm triggered man😮

this is a really smart solution for parked heads! question for you- how are you handling purging on the chimeras? normal IDEX printing doesn't need a purge since you have two independent extruders, but since you're mixing two in each nozzle I imagine you're purging. Are you purging between every color change no matter what or are do you have a way of specifying a purge between A->B and C->D, but not any of the other swaps (AC, AD, BC, and BD)?

do you have to change the software code for this to swing over the print plate?

This vid was really helpful for me! I just noticed that my battery was bloating and it just started to not charge. Then I stumbled on to your vid while searching for a battery replacement. With your vid I was successful on taking the battery out and the battery was scary to look at because of the bloat. I'm now stuck to the outlet but at least there's no damage to my unit, aside for the battery.

This is EXACTLY what I’ve been looking for. Would you be willing to custom make one and ship it?

Is the burgertime version moddable

Can u give it to someone to replace the battery i want to get mine from droix so should i give it back to them n replace battery

The battery seems a tad awkward to get to for a replacement, but at least they made it user serviceable. My portable device is just a cheap $99 chromebook(reinstalled with a lightweight Debian system by removing the special screw). Not much I can do hardwarewise with it beyond that though...

love my WM2. I have the 6800U version and have no issues (aside from the SD card disconnect issues but I'd rather have two 1TB at USB2 speeds than 1 at full speed). Mine's at about 90% battery health and I feel like I'll soon need to replace mine so thanks for making this vid

I'm pretty inexperienced with electric engineering but recently I've been thinking of making something like this. I was wondering though, if you have the whole unit turn of when it reaches its target temperature, then why do you under-power the heater and not just let it go at full strength? Wouldn't that make it heat up faster and have it be on for less time? Sorry if this is a dumb question

what kind if infrared rays are emitted by the heater? different kinds penetrate tissue differently and are more/less efficient at heating reptiles properly

Your Mitsumi Hellvica keyboard is a very, very early one...Literally one of the first Hellvica keyboards off of the line. It really is a "Franken-keyboard". It has the failure prone rubber cups of the Eurostile keyboard, and the Early PET Keyboard Notoriously horrible Futaba/Mitsumi PET Shift-Lock Key switch. Personally, Since it's a Hellvica font keyboard, and not a Eurostile Font or Early PET Keyboard, I would remove and dump the keyboard and use it for parts for a Eurostile and PET keyboard which use the same internals as the keyboard you have and swap it out for the later Die-hard reliable Mitsumi Hellvica (2nd Gen) Keyboard found in 2 million VICs and 17 Million C64's...which also have the later Die-hard Shift-Lock Key switches too which never fail. Tony K. ;)

Do you have any options if you don't have a 3d printer? Looking around it is hard to find material like you suggested when dealing with heat.

The printing community is just a bunch of beeg brain people together

So how is it to print some bigger multi color/material prints with this setup? Would love to see it in action

How did you fix the silicone pad into place, did you use specialty silicone'glue? ..cause no other glue works on silicone

Awesome job Greg! I just bought the Pro Version - Got it cheap myself! I may just try this too... I'm also considering a y-axis upgrade - not sure if you've had issues with bed wobble and how JGMaker suggests one fix it... Doesn't exactly instill confidence in the long term durability of the stock y-axis. I'm thinking dual linear rails instead of the extrusion with wheels... Anyway, I will also tackle your lead screw video as well. Thanks for sharing!!

Now forgive my ignorance but was the board/speaker/button assembly soldered for connection?

I hope this catches on as standard

Great idea