Відео

I wore 501s a while ago. I find that they are way to baggy in the calfs, and if I size down, it's too tight in the seat and thigh. The501 also doesn't have any stretch in them, as the 511 do. 511s are better in every way for me.

I find this is very durable. Had it almost 10 years, almost always wear a backpack with it. You can't even see any wear marks from the shoulder straps.

@@tommilano5431 Not saying it's not durable, just saying they went from 100% wool to a blend to save money not because it's superior.

True, but gravel is a blanket statement for off-road. This was fine for this "light" gravel, and can probably even handle some medium gravel. For "all" gravel, I'd want either a 38 or 40mm tire.

Thanks for watching, glad you've found it helpful!

That's one way of doing it!

You're welcome, glad it was helpful!

Dude, it's a shame! I can't find anything like it either, and I've searched high and low! I still have this jacket but I tend to baby it, since it's truly one of a kind! I did find a company that makes custom field jackets for under $300, I think it's called Faherty. I might give them a try.

​@@tommilano5431test to see if posts are being deleted, I'm not seeing mine lol

I like silver as it matches my wedding ring and belt buckle. Black does look sick as well!

The Iron Ranger looks better on the shelf than on foot. If you wear slim or skinny jeans, it does look big and bulbous!

That would be tough even on a geared bike!

I think you'll be fine. A lot of comments I've seen go along the lines of them dropping quality in the last 10-20 years. This is in line with the whole "Life was better 30 years ago, the good old days". I don't like this mindset, it's backwards thinking IMO. If you wait for the October sale, you can probably get them for under $300. Mine have been doing just fine, and I routinely wear them in the rain! Thursday Boots are a great cheaper alternative, although they won't last as long.

@@tommilano5431 Gratitude for response. I've seen other videos of yours were you say to wait until October. I will be doing just that. I hope you're right. Even comments under Higgins mill boots on their own website are really bad. But I'll take the chance, and I can always return them after getting them and inspecting boots in person.

It looks like all of the ECM mics work with the A6400. If I had to choose one, it would be the ECMB10. It's $100 cheaper than the B1M, and sounds 95% the same. I can barely tell the difference! The ECMG1 doesn't sound good indoors, and the ECMM1 is too expensive and sounds worse than the B1m and B10. Of course, buy from a reputable store with a good return policy, as you want to be able to return it if for some reason it doesn't work! In that case, the Rode Video Micro 2 is a great budget option! ECMB10: amzn.to/3AA8Lf4 Rode VIdeo Micro 2: amzn.to/4cBfnr2

This is the "Chili" color from Allen edmonds. amzn.to/3Ml5Tp5

Nice! Straps didn't work for me, but I found them very comfortable and it was convenient to not have to wear special cycling shoes!

Agree. The bike flys uphill especially with their sub-15 wheels and lightweight race tires! The issue with single speed is they can only be geared easy or hard. I don't mind losing the ability to pedal over 25 miles an hour as I'm riding in stop and go lot's of times. Wabi did make a geared Lighting RE years ago. I wish they would bring something like that back, it would give it ultimate versatility!

Thank you! Rollers can be easier if you have momentum. It's all about technique, but I've come up to stop lights on steep hills, and this kills your momentum. The only real way is to go out and get stronger :)

If you were spinning out, it sounds like you had a fixed gear. Gearing down would have solved this issue, since you'd be able to coast downhill, then changed the gear to a harder gear after a few months as you got stronger.

@@tommilano5431 Nope. Had a single speed. I didn't want to coast downhill but go as fast as I could. I was peddling faster than the bike could keep up.

Yes, the more brogue-ing, details, and lighter the color, the more casual the shoe! If the strand was in a darker brown, it would be more dressy, and if the McAllister was in the walnut, it would be more casual! But a lot of this stuff isn't as rigid as the rules were back in the day.

This is actually good advice! I'll have to try it out next time I go for a ride. I don't pay much attention to my footing on my SS bikes, since I am running flat pedals and vans sneakers. My feet probably "auto-calibrate", but I'll have to pay attention next time!

@@tommilano5431 also, if you have a bigger gear single, like 40 x 15 or something, you can spin a bit faster by moving your feet forward a touch, and that gives you a shorter linkage, and higher gear. My shoes, I got for free while cleaning out a deceased friend's entire workshop of bikes, but they're good, solid touring shoes with a tread that kind of notches into a series of fore and aft positions. Don't tell the cycling equipment companies. They'll come out with a sliding shoe mount or some damned contraption. Experiment! Also check out different crank arm lengths. Those are really overlooked. I used to time trial on 175's, now I love a 165. Much more comfortable. Tighter, more controlled circles. Happy trails!

Thanks for this. Not a lot of people like the jean cuff, but I find it's very under-utilized. Especially if you are in dark wash denim.

Thanks Ronald! This is my stomping grounds when I want to get in a quick 10-12 mile ride.

The 1x systems seem like a great compromise for something like commuting! If you were on a track bike, I'd make a guess that you were geared too high and didn't run brakes. This would make any hill a chore, and if one were to choose an easier gear ratio with a freewheel, and run both brakes, it would make it a lot easier. Nice thing about single speed is you can gear them lower than a fixed gear since you can stop pedaling downhill.

The bullhorns have great leverage. I only like compact drop bars with the hooded brake levers. They aren’t comfortable brake less or with top mount levers.

Thank you!

9.3 kg with no accesses attached, rear fender removed. This is with 2 bottle cages, plastic pedals, and a super heavy brooks saddle. Getting lightweight bottle cages and a lighter saddle would probably get it closer to 19 lbs.

This is a Thompson seat post that has a "setback". Basically, it puts the saddle further back. Helpful for me as it gives me a bit more room on the bike without having to go up one size.

@@tommilano5431 I thought maybe it was to increase setback, but I wasn’t aware of that style of seatpost. Thanks for the info!

That's a nice spinny gear! Single speeds are special, as you just pedal forward and go. When I'm on a geared bike, I am always trying to "hunt" for the right gear, but on a single speed I don't do that!

@@tommilano5431 That's so true, you just... Go. Happy riding ✌️

I've done this, but especially with the road shoes I've fallen, lol!

Thank you, that's what I'm going for here!

Yes, momentum is key! And you just get stronger after a while.

Yam momentum for a couple hundred feet only

It's tough cycling on the roads with cars. I find it's easier in a city as cars can't go as fast as the suburbs.

You're not taking into account tire size.

@@bruceclark5627 I am, using standard formula: number of chainring teeth divided by number of cog teeth multiplied by diameter of wheel.

@@hernehill6282 WELL...... If we're gonna geek out over this, let's do it properly 😁,......you didn't measure the true size of the tire when Inflated to a specific PSI,at a specific altitude and then account for barometric pressures.

All good points. Reason I used ratios is that it's easier for people to understand, as it's simpler. I did mention this is assuming one is using 28mm or 32mm tires, and that if you run 23mm or 38mm tires it will affect your gearing.

@@tommilano5431 I hear ya. For me, I can visualize gear inches (as 18 or 108 inch wheel diameters) much more easily than I can visualize ratios.

That sucks. I've heard on mechanical systems the shifters fray the cables after a few thousand miles. Might be worth it to check and/or replace the inner cable every few months.

That's a steep ratio for me! I like to spin. But yes, NYC is mostly flat, and I imagine after riding SS for a bit it becomes easier and easier. I've seen Terry B go over the queensboro on a track bike with similar gearing to you and he stayed seated the entire time.

Must be nice to live in a place that's completely flat. Scratch that. It sounds boring. With no uphills, there's no coasting downhill.

Cmon. 48-17 is nice for 200km rides if no crazy head wind.

some folks who bike aren't in some internationally renown metropolis where movies are filmed. Some of us are in working class states where this concept hills that you can't avoid are a thing. It's why geared by bikes became popular.

All good points. For recovery rides or easy rides, it's easier to stick to flats. But some people live in hill country, so they don't have a choice but to deal with hills.

@@tommilano5431 yeah then buy some gears!!

Thank you!

I have heard that as well. The fabric that collars and co uses seems to be like a "workout" fabric that is breathable but also doesn't wrinkle at all. It's pretty crazy that these shirts don't need any ironing at all.

Thanks! I put 38s on the thunder for gravel, same gear ratio as you. It was nice for that. For the road, I like 28s, or maximum 32s. They roll much faster.

A small camera helps as it’s lighter and easier to pocket. It doesn’t help much with fear, it’s awkward at first no matter what. A cheaper camera can give piece of mind compared to walking around with an expensive setup.

@@tommilano5431 True

Same here.

Thanks! Wish it was more scientific, lol!

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! I use the B1M and b10, I no longer have the other 2.

Thank you!

Sound advice!

lol!

Depends on if one likes Wichita.

I have thought about that! A 300% return on my “investment”!

It’s good to think that way from time to time. Otherwise we end up with more material things than we know what to do with! Thanks for watching.