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Hi, Jimmy. One shot is fine and isn't going to affect you unless you are particularly sensitive or have asthma. Acrylic is no good. Sign writing brushes don't like water based paints. For practice, as one shot is expensive, I'd recommend a satin black in synthetic as a cheap brand for practice as it dries quicker and not dear. It also covers well.

Hi Chase, a frustrating journey at times but enjoyable too. Dont give up. We learn by mistakes which is what makes us good. The more mistakes we make, the better we become. All the best.

Oh bugger...funny thing is it neither says on the side of your tin of One Shot paint that if you drop it on the floor that the lid could come off thus rendering the paint useless. I can only lead people to the water, what you do with it afterwards is up to you. :)

Thank you! Will do!

Thank you, you, too! I'll try to upload more.

OK I'll bear that in mind in my next video

I just use the ordinary black, too expensive to buy both! Just use Lettering Black.

Already done the cab and welding - that you can see on our facebook page. The sides we will do later on, I can video that no problem.

Good stuff lol

Hi John, yes and no and depends on your skill level and style. Sometimes a bigger brush you can paint both sides of a letter at the same time, it depends on how the brush is worn in. General rule perhaps yes but normally your brush stroke should cover just over half of the thickness of the letter. So if your letter T is a half inch thick then you really want your brush size to be 3/8 of an inch in size. (Whatever thickness of your letter is, you want your brush stroke to cover 2/3 of the thickness of your letter)

thanks again Cliff. here's another question regarding brushes. I have an unused no 4 chisel but it has a rogue hair that won't lie flat with the others . should I pull it out or cut it off?

Glad it was helpful!

You are so welcome!

Welcome aboard!

I´m useless on camera. Blame the missus.

@@Airbrushartist haha...same here mate!!keep the videos coming!

Thank you Sheepish. For painting and panel beating follow our facebook page facebook.com/mustangsallygarage as we restore classic cars too.

Always prefer oil based primers to water based! Years ago we used to varnish over our lettering, unfortunately today the varnish isn't very good and the signwriting enamel and maybe the base colour (gloss) would out last the varnish. So it is pointless now to varnish. I have only lacquered with automotive lacquer because I did some airbrushed toning to age it, otherwise I wouldn't have done.

Hi Chris, if you cannot make a corner with a brush (twist the brush into the corners of a square) then that's not good and if the hairs have been cut and it has lost its natural taper then that is not good for the brush either. So signs are: you cannot paint a corner / if the brush won't follow a circle like an O or an S because the hairs flick or they are too strong. The hairs being strong on a new brush isn't so much of an issue because they will loosen with use. Another telltale, would be a brush wanting to bend and not return to its normal straight shape. This will happen if you only use one side of a brush so make sure to use both sides of the brush.

that was painted in

Hi Mark, originally the covering was the colour. You can repair it and paint it in any colour you desire but it was a dark green / grey with beige. The black ones were the ones collecting spies from France.

Hi again, that's the difference. When you have those shapes imprinted in your mind you can see they are terrible. This is what happens when you have a break. It takes a while for your hand to do what your eyes are seeing. That was the first time since the last video. The brush had a shock too.

I got it finishes, I managed to fly my small spacewalker and a couple of other 2 meter planes to build up the confidence, then Covid struck and the clubs have been closed.

Thank you for filling me in, I have a big interest in that airplane because I have one myself Keep the good videos coming in let me know when you get a chance to fly your ASM Cessna

You got this!

Great suggestion!

yeah I second that! absolutely great work and really well explained.

If you put together a few questions you might have, I can arrange a one-to-one if that would help?

I have loads of questions to be honest. how do you go about a one to one? many thanks for the offer.

Send me an email to: info@mustangsallygarage.com

@@Airbrushartist fantastic. I'll be in touch over weekend. cheers

hi cliff. I've been too busy to do any signwriting for a couple of months. I've just reopened a tin of one-shot and it's completely skinned over to the point you can hold it upside down! what shall I do? its a full tin too, as I only used enough to fill an expresso cup. cheers for any advice mate

Generally if you're signwriting as a business as I once was, you would have 4 styles, one would be a block, I used Helvetika, a condensed style, I used Grotesque, and a script and last but not least, one struck free style. Depending on the letters involved, I would generally use their letter heading for inspiration but the main blah blah laborious writing I'd always try to get away with one stroke.

Or as the comic actor W C Fields put it "never give a sucker an even break!"

Hi there, thank you for commenting and viewing our videos. Grease wise - a little bit of grease from your car shop (that's what I use) and a bit of engine oil and you really want the old type like mineral engine oil as the new fully synthetic is not too good for your skin if you're sensitive. I'm not familiar with Rosemary brushes? Are we talking about sign writing brushes?

Glad you like them!

Hi John, if you are only practicing you can use any synthetic paint. A good covering one may be a satin black - dries quicker and covers well. One shot is expensive just to practice with but the difference with the signwriting paints is two things: 1 adhesion is better because you're not sanding the vehicle before you letter and also the pigment is much stronger so when you reduce the paint it still has the ability to cover without going on so thick.

My pleasure!

would you recommend practicing on glass? many tutorials use paper but I'd imagine the surface of glass is more similar to a piece of painted wood and can be scraped clean easily? I guess the downside is that paper can be kept and referred back to as skill develops.

you can practice on glass but glass is not the same as painting onto the side of a vehicle. Personally, you could go to a breakers yard and pick up an old panel / bonnet and prop it up and before it dries wipe off with spirit and start again.

Hi John, new brushes: Firstly when ordering sign writing brushes you want to make sure they are uncut so the brush hairs have a natural taper to them if that option is available from where you buy them from. As for cleaning a new brush, I just rinse out in white spirit before first use. But first use would be trying out on a test first as I've found not all brushes conform straight away; some you have to work at. If your brush gets bent or you have rogue hairs, if you dip it into a cup of very hot water that will straighten the hairs out! Thanks for following and supporting my channel! Anymore questions I'll gladly help with and I will get round to uploading another video. What video would you like to see next?

@@Airbrushartist superb advice as usual. thanks again. it would be great if you could show how to approach a basic gill sans letter S in the same way as you did the letter P in one of your other videos. the reason I ask is most of the other tutorials (especially from USA) show more of a general poster style one stroke block letter. also is it possible to show how to underline a word? thanks again for your time

Of course (about the S) and do you mean a shadow or drop shadow?

@@Airbrushartist just a basic S without any kind of shadow. most letters are kind of easy to visualise as they begin with a vertical (or in the case of an A a diagonal) but with a letter S it is harder to know where to start. personally I sketch out a basic skeleton S with chinagraph and then muddle through, thickening here and there till it looks right. it seems most of the newer generation of signwriters are pouncing text printed from plotters and filling them in, rather than painting them free hand as you do. in short, it would be great to see you paint a block letter S! hope that makes sense. thanks again mate

Hi John, OK will do a block S. I'm telling you this so I actually do it! I haven't done any sign writing for who knows how long but I will dig into the recess of my brain and see if I can remember LOL. I'll do one this weekend. STAY TUNED

as you mentioned paper reducing the life of brushes

hello John, both brushes would be classed as chisel brushes as they do not go to a point but generally poster brushes or ticket brushes tend to be shorter haired because it is more of a one-stroke brush so you're using the brush to do a thick and a thin in one manoevre whereas signwriting brushes, the lengths vary depending on preference but normally they are slightly longer to give a straighter line when lettering.

Hi John, the brush size varies depending on the size of the letter and what you are doing and the paint out of the tin will always be thinned. I use it from the tin (as I don´'t do that many signs anymore) but usually I would pour paint from the tin into a small container, I would reduce it to a consistency a little thicker than I would want and then I would palette my brush and reduce further to suit the letter. By reducing the paint manually to start with, it is less brush work which in turn makes your brushes last longer.

that's great advice thanks. I actually trained as a signwriter in the early 90s but have only just began to take it up again. its interesting to hear you talk about learning letter forms as that's what sticks in my mind.....constant drawing of gill sans and trajan Roman. I get the impression from youtube that USA signwriters were taught a looser poster style compared to British and its unlikely they had to study heraldry either!

Paint is always reduced before application. If the paint in the original container is half used then I may dilute the paint in the tin otherwise I will transfer to a smaller dipper and then reduce from there. In some of my demo videos you may see me dipping straight into the original container but that will only be because there is not much paint left or it has gone old. I was always taught to transfer paint into a small dipper, and this was for if you had a full tin on your pallet as by the end of the day you would need arms like Arnold.

Hi Ruub, yes, we are a real workshop "Mustang Sally Garage"

They are sign writing brushes and are sable or a mix of sable and ox hair.

@@Airbrushartist Where can I buy brushes?

It depends where in the world you are. If you google sign writing brushes, a local supplier should come up?