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Bottom Up Builds
United States
Приєднався 10 січ 2019
2017 KTM 350 SXF Full Engine Rebuild, Disassembly and Reassembly, Bottom End and Top End.
2017 KTM 350 SXF Full Engine Rebuild, Disassembly and Reassembly, Bottom End and Top End.
00:00 Disassembly
37:31 Bottom End Assembly
1:26:08 Top End Assembly
00:00 Disassembly
37:31 Bottom End Assembly
1:26:08 Top End Assembly
Переглядів: 3 020
Відео
HOW TO - Beginner's Guide, First Time Painting Motorcycle Helmet
Переглядів 1,5 тис.7 місяців тому
Step by step instructions on painting your first helmet, use your own designs and color and follow the same outline and principals here and you should get great results! Have any tips or tricks to add? Please leave them in the comments! Check out the video that I followed from Martin at the ETOE channel. ua-cam.com/video/p3az3ZuWaE4/v-deo.html 1. MONTANA GOLD - PLASTICS PRIMER 2. MONTANA GOLD -...
Honda Trail 90 Rides Trails
Переглядів 785Рік тому
Some of you wanted to see the motor built a few years ago in action. It's ran hundreds of miles and is due for a tune up at this point!
KTM 50 SX Front Brake Caliper & Master Cylinder Rebuild, Brake Bleed
Переглядів 4,3 тис.Рік тому
KTM 50 SX Front Brake Caliper & Master Cylinder Rebuild and Brake Bleed. This process should match most recent 2002-2021 KTM, Gas Gas, Husqvarna 50 mini bike models.
Suzuki JR50 Clutch Replacement
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
Clutch Replacement of a 1994 Suzuki JR 50, the process should transfer over to many of the years made for this same model bike. #JR50 #suzuki #clutch #moto
Ep. 3 -1971 VW Super Beetle - Torsion Bar & Spring Plate Install, Lower The Rear Suspension 3"
Переглядів 40 тис.3 роки тому
Intstalling the torsion bars, bushings, and spring plate. Re-indexing the torsion bar for a 3" drop.
CRF450R Time-lapse Build
Переглядів 1443 роки тому
A time-lapse of a 2006 Honda CRF450R I built a while back.
Ep. 2 - 1971 VW Super Beetle - Diagonal Arm Assembly, Rear Bearing & Seal Replacement & Install.
Переглядів 15 тис.3 роки тому
1971 VW Super Beetle - Diagonal Arm Assembly, Rear Bearing & Seal Replacement & Install. #vw #volkswagen #superbeetle
Ep. 1 - 1971 VW Super Beetle - Chassis Sand Blast, Rust Treat, Clean, Prime and Paint.
Переглядів 18 тис.3 роки тому
Getting the 1971 VW Super Beetle ready for assembly!
James Stewart Hits Whoops For An Hour
Переглядів 37 тис.3 роки тому
From his first start to his last win, James Stewart hits whoops!
CT90 Front Fork Rebuild and Install - Honda Trail 90 1971 K3
Переглядів 15 тис.3 роки тому
1971 Honda CT 90 Trail 90 Front Fork Rebuild and Install
CT90 Engine Build - Honda Trail 90 1971 K3
Переглядів 60 тис.4 роки тому
Hopefully there's some helpful info in here. Sorry my head gets in the way a lot.
Are these 3 the only video recordings you have on VW bugs?
@@ioancreanga3988 it is, for now, I'm almost at a point where I'll pick them back up! .... Hopefully!
You do an outstanding job of explaining everything you do
@@ioancreanga3988 hopefully it helped, thanks for watching
Thanks for the information. How do you remove the tape from the rubber without peeling the clear coat?
@@neshltd2303 in my case it just peeled off no problem, I think the valley between the rubber and the helmet shell is deep enough to allow it to cut cleanly. You might carefully run a razor blade around the edge of you're worried though.
@bottomupbuilds thanks! The clear I'm using is a UV clear and it was too hard to cut cleanly. Maybe I'll use 2k as a final on this helmet.
The easiest way is simply use a C- Clamp.
Im working on one of these now it and when you put it in gear it doesn’t go, only sometimes for about 5 feet then it’ll go into neutral it’s self any tips?
not sure what it is, but seems like maybe there's an issue with the either the gear selector or the spring for that? I have never opened the case on this to see what the shift drum looks like, but there could be issues there as well. Unfortunately, probably just need to open the whole thing and look around. Sorry I am not really any help.
1:14:21 How you blocked crankshaft to properly tight nut? Thanks
1:04:32 should be what you're looking for
@@bottomupbuildsthanks a lot! 🙌
Great video, thanx 4 sharing. I hope to do that this summer on the "69 CT90 I'm restoring, just like one I had when 15. I'm 67 now.
@@arnenelson4495 they're fun bikes, reach out if you have any questions on your restoration!
What kind of sand blasting media did you use?
@@lightning423 medium grit coal slag from tractor supply
Rebuilding my motor the same way...thanks
@@footzbmp7463 good luck!! Thanks for watching!
Just started refreshing my 1976 CT 90 and this was much appreciated information.
How hard is it to pull the speedometer and brake cables from the front wheel?
not hard at all, the speedo cable just unscrews at the wheel and you can remove one bolt that holds the brake lever arm onto the wheel as well and just slide that off.
Wouldnt you not replace main bearings if metal shavings have been circulated through the engine?
@@fullthrottle716 that would be ideal yes, money restraints made me not do it in this case... So far so good though!
Best demonstration of this procedure in the internet! Thank you!
Ciao grande video, complimenti!! io dovrei ricostruire il motore al mio husquarna FE 350 del 2018 secondo te va bene le indicazioni di questo video?
Mi dispiace, in gran parte dovrebbe essere lo stesso, ma non posso essere sicuro che sia lo stesso al 100%.
Grazie lo stesso, e comunque gran bel video spiegato in tutti i particolari
How long did you let the primer cure?
24 hours
really nice man
Hey, just a tidbit of info about the sanding part. You don't have to go down to the shell of the helmet or even remove the paint, you just need to scuff the surface enough so that the primer sticks to the surface well, generally speaking most of the fine imperfections sanding would have left will be smoothed out by applying the several coats of paint that will go on top. Usually I get a very feather light surface sscraping with a 450grit and a quick little polishing with 800 wet, takes about 30 mins to a hour depending on the complexity of the helmet's surfaces to get it done. Then dust it and wipe it of any dust and go do the primer coat. BTW, be careful when sanding to not get too hard on the ridges, you'll round them a lot and lose a bit of the sharp geometric shapes. At the end to avoid most of the orange peel effect after the cclear coats, I usually do a first light 1k clear coat, fully dry, wet sand @800, 2nd light 1K clear, fully dry, assess the surface aspect second wet sand @800 if needed and generally you'll be golden at this point, clean very well and then do a final well tensed 2K clearcoat to seal off the helmet. Anyhow, very good job for a first helmet paint!
Thank you for the great info! I will keep that in mind on my next job. Thanks for watching as well!
How long do you need to let primer dry before you sand and do base coat?
@@addamohara9274 check instructions on the specific paint you're using, but to be sure waiting 24 hours should be enough.
@bottomupbuilds ok my rustoleum primer said 5-7 days I was like huh?
@addamohara9274 without actually seeing the can, it's impossible to know for sure. Usually there is an amount of time that needs to pass before you can sand, but the paint may still not be fully cured for several days. Maybe that's what the can is referring to
Bro u need to do more rebuilds i enjoyed it fr .I would love to see you rebuild an lc4 625cc or more
Where can I buy new cilinder pins?
@@flyingnigel0453 if you buy a new cylinder, it likely will come with one. Otherwise any online parts retailer... eBay, motosport, partzilla should have them
is it necessary to move the inside splines? awesome video, but slightly confused as to why both the inside and outside splines both need to be reindexed.
@@spencerwillett2983 there are a different number of teeth on the inside vs the outside. Depending on how fine tuned you'd like it, it's likely necessary to move both.
@@bottomupbuilds ok thanks for the info, doing my 79 super convertible this winter. are shorter struts required if l lower? was looking into 2.5" drop spindles for the front
47:10 why did u blair the bearing?
@@george199779 the seal for the crank was sitting there, but it was upside down and wasn't installed yet. I didn't want somebody to see it and think that's the way it should go in
@@bottomupbuilds now i get it. You did a great job and this video was fun and on point
Just around the 525 hour mark on my 2017 sxf350, I think it’s time for a rebuild. Thank god this video exists Thank you sir
@@ReedMalcolm378 glad it can help. Did you make it that far on the original crank? Just curious, I've heard they should go well over 400 hrs.
@@bottomupbuilds oh yeah everything bottom wise is as it came from factory, top end wise it did 2 pistons and new valves by my mechanic. Now with this video I surely can handle this myself
@@ReedMalcolm378question I’m think of getting a 2018 fc350 with 130 hours on it but it got a full top end rebuild 9 hours ago so do the bottom ends last a long time on these bikes?
@@PhillipDoose oh bottom ends in those will last decades (if you maintain properly)
So what was your final decision on the rusty fork pistons? Did you clean up the rust (describe please) or replace with new?
@@steveswann8448 yes, the rust pitting was too bad. The seals wouldn't hold the oil so I had to get new forks. I order the heavy duty fork kit from dratv.com
quick question. at 1hr 49min, wouldn't it be easier if you just mark the chain to the cam when you first disassemble instead of using the timing marks? only say that as I its easy to be 1 tooth out when you set the timing
Yes, that would also work, personal preference I guess!
i can't believe this doesn't have more views. I have done my full rebuild from top to bottom just by watching your video.
@@3r3steve I'm glad that it helped! Thanks for watching!
yes nice job ,thank you for your video
Any idea if changing either sets of springs would change clutch engagement rpm? It should right? If so outside set of springs or the ones in the basket?
I think it should, but info on these motors is hard to come by, I don't know what springs you should change or even where you'd get some!
@bottomupbuilds thanks for the quick reply. I'm thinking outside set maybe just stack a washer on each, should counter some of the force from the balls being slung out...ie higher engage rpm. Thanks again!
Do you have a parts list for your suspension rebuild with part numbers? I'm having a difficult time finding the bearings for this project on my super
are you in the US? Most any online store should have them, JBugs, CIP1, Wolfsburg West. www.jbugs.com/category/vw-rear-suspension.html
@@bottomupbuilds yes I am in the US. And I just looked on all the sites. They all have some of the parts available so I appreciate the direction!
Just sometimes it will catch and start, most kicks have no resistance!
I have a problem with my JR50 when you kick it, sometimes the kicker just moves, without kicking over, like it is missing teeth or something? Do you have any advice. Who can rebuild the engine for me ? Thanks
does it always kick right through without resistance, or only sometimes?
Not clear on how you got the spring plate back up on its shelf. Did it just line up with the shelf without tension since you lowered the ride height? Setting mine back to stock height I’m expecting to have to use a jack under the spring plate to get it back up on its ledge. Am I picturing this correctly?
Correct, since I lowered the car (raised the starting position of the spring plate) mine just set right on the shelf without much effort. If you are raising the car (lowering the starting position of the spring plate) you will need to use something to press it up so it can be pushed over and set on the shelf. If your car is assembled with the body on and engine in, a jack should do the trick, or I have even seen people use a ratchet strap to pull the spring plate up so it can be set into place.
@@bottomupbuilds Will be tackling this job tomorrow. Thanks for giving me the confidence to proceed.
Where you installed the beveled spacer on the backside, isn’t there supposed to be a seal installed before you insert the axel stub?
There is not, other than the outer seal that was installed. Install order should go bearing, lock ring (circlip), outer seal, inner spacer, axle. oacdp.org/type1part/5005.png
@@bottomupbuilds Thank you so much for clarifying.
The most informative video I’ve seen on this job, and I’ve watched a #, TY
What size compressor are you using and grit media
I am using the Harbor Freight 110 lb sand blaster with coal slag media from Tractor Supply, medium grit is all it says on the bag. I have a Bel Aire 80 gallon 5 hp two-stage compressor, pressure set to, I think about 100 psi. Even though the compressor is beefy compared to home garage standards, it was still under powered for the job. I was able to get a minute or 2 of blasting before I had to wait for it to catch back up.
Thank you for the amazing video an dim curious do you need to do the other side also left side, i want to do mine and i assume i need to do both side the same degrees and process to be level the same.
@@MarsGarage333 yes, definitely do both sides! Same process on the other side 👍
@@bottomupbuilds thank you!!
What is the link to the chart?
Google VW lowering chart and you'll find dozens of the same chart
I have a 82 JR50 when you kick the bike sometimes it just slips, could the clutch be the problem ? I wish I could just buy a fresh-end up engine.
That retaining clip is a son of bitch to get in and seat properly. You made it look easy without explaining much on how to get it in.
Yes, sorry, I lost some footage of a few steps near the end and had to just splice is some footage of me disassembling the perch and ran it backwards. Better explanation of that part probably was just overlooked on my part. The clip is a huge pain. One comment on here recommends using a socket to set it in, I think that is a great idea!
I did use a socket but it seems as if that clip deteriorates very quickly if you don’t get it seated properly with your first attempt.
@@jacquesnel8384 yeah, now that you mention it, I remember it being very flimsy. I remember using a pick and small flat screw driver and just taking my time working it around.
Just what I needed! Schweeeeet!! Thanks dude!
Use the longer bolts from the bottom of your super bug strut to start on the spring plate and then swap to your short ones. The video didn't mention that these bolts are 15mm size, and using normal sized 17mm head bolts don't have room. The strut mont bolts are your friend here.
This has saved me many questions, Thank you very much.
Glad it helped!!
Great video! What did you use as a primer? Also, any chance you’re still working on more vids for this project? I really enjoy the few that you have!
It's been a while, but it looks like I used Speedokote DTM primer/sealer in gray. Yes, I hope to get back to it sooner than later!
@@bottomupbuilds Awesome! Thank you for that info. I’m excited for future videos, you do a great job of explaining your process and I appreciate your attention to detail, which I try to emulate in my own project!
Excellent, now I have to get to work... we'll done by the way, informative...
Thanks, hopefully you can avoid some pitfalls and get a great result when you give it a go!
If you haven't torn apart a freshly built motor due to a mistake, you probably haven't built any
Thanks for all the torque specs
I saw you were off before you installed the head. Anywho, nice teardown and rebuild..
🙏🙏thank you for this
Thanks for viedo 👍
Do you have a link of the tent? A tent like that will def help me out.
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, this is the one. www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-x-17-ft-portable-car-canopy-62860.html?campaignid=12192885310&adsetid=115861552486&product=62860&store=3194&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlZixBhCoARIsAIC745CnT8EKwUssNp3Tf32fqILGaO_k1beRTIJG3ScOEwQQHTUC9sRjaEQaAhSCEALw_wcB
Another GREAT video THANK YOU VW
You are welcome, I'm glad it helped!