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Diabolical Artificer
United Kingdom
Приєднався 28 січ 2013
Vintage electronics, test gear and DIY/homebrew valve amplification.
25w 5881 PP Valve Amp - New Tone Control Board - Fault Finding.
Refurbishing a 5881 PP 25w Class AB1 valve amplifier aka BGA = Big Green Amp.
Fitting a new tone control board to the BGA, testing it, fault finding on a constant current sink & a final final quick power OP (output) test.
Fitting a new tone control board to the BGA, testing it, fault finding on a constant current sink & a final final quick power OP (output) test.
Переглядів: 261
Відео
Valve Amp Tone Control Refurb - BGA - Big Green Amp.
Переглядів 34921 день тому
Tidying up wiring, making a new tone control circuit board & testing of. Continuing on with the BGA - the longest valve amp build in history, make amplifiers great again.
Valve/Tube Design - Loadline Example Test - Part 2.
Переглядів 515Місяць тому
Testing & measuring the DC parameters of a common cathode triode gain stage based on a loadline. This is a very simple example & doesn't go into the subject in great depth. This video is in response to questions posed in part 1. For more info see - www.valvewizard.co.uk/gainstage.html
Valve/Tube Design - Drawing a Loadline & Calculating Cathode Resistor. Part 1.
Переглядів 156Місяць тому
Wot it says up there, a very simple quick method. I ignore a lot of other aspects about valve/tube graphical analysis. For more info see - www.valvewizard.co.uk/gainstage.html
Vintage Mosfet Repair - 3 Final - Mosfet Testing - Final Tests.
Переглядів 562Місяць тому
I tested the lateral mosfets on a cheap tester & on a test rig. Fitted the PCB's into the heatsinks & after a few minor mods, tested them for OP power, frequency response, THD & stability. Tested on a 8 ohm dummy load, a 100n capacitor & an audio test. Bit of a long one, but needed to put this to bed. Apologies for the repetition re the Hitachi fets, I was in a dilemma.
Valve Amp - Faulty Valve - Parasytic Oscillation.
Переглядів 3,3 тис.Місяць тому
Changed some OP valves on an amp which wasn't straight forward, it never is. Identify & fix some issues.
Vintage Mosfet Amp - Repair - Part Two.
Переглядів 234Місяць тому
Trying to repair the BJT transistor stage. Testing the good channel. Lateral mosfets.
Vintage Mosfet Amp- Repair - Part One.
Переглядів 562Місяць тому
An attempted repair of a vintage mosfet amp. Originally it used lateral mosfets, one channel is working - ish. For all the solid state amp buffs, I'm more used to working with valves, if I'm a bit slow, I'm learning on the job, bear that in mind.
Sterns Stereophonic Refurb - Part Five.
Переглядів 4042 місяці тому
Bit of a detour into getting an emitter follower based on a circuit found online to work. Also a few other little jobs.
Vintage 400w Fet Amp - 1 - Unboxing & Initial Evaluation.
Переглядів 3802 місяці тому
Chap asked me to look at his fet amp, a first look.
Negative Feedback in Valve Amplifiers - Testing - Part two.
Переглядів 6432 місяці тому
Continuing on from part one, subjects covered, what is NFB, how it works & further testing & recording of data. Some annotations lost, have had PC issues, edits lost. Re the helicopter, had an argument with Jose Guevara a while back over goose tampering in the 1996 Goose & Chipmunk Jockey Race, keeps haunting me in his ghost helicopter, nuff said : )
Negative Feedback - In Audio Amplifiers - How to Apply - Part 1.
Переглядів 6723 місяці тому
Why, & how to, apply negative feedback on a valve/tube audio power amplifier.
Sterns Stereophonic Preamp Refurb - Part Four.
Переглядів 2963 місяці тому
More fun footage from the annals of The Artificer in which our hero battles with vintage technology. There's also a dead rat.
Sterns Stereophonic Pre-Amplifier - Rebuilding & Power Supply - Part Three.
Переглядів 5453 місяці тому
Building a power supply, testing of. Starting to replace valve bases.
Sterns Stereophonic Pre-Amplifier - Fault Finding & Circuit Analysis - Part Two.
Переглядів 3623 місяці тому
Sterns Stereophonic Pre-Amplifier - Fault Finding & Circuit Analysis - Part Two.
Sterns Stereophonic Pre-Amplifier - Evaluation - Part 1.
Переглядів 4143 місяці тому
Sterns Stereophonic Pre-Amplifier - Evaluation - Part 1.
Valve Amp Delayed Start- Fault Finding & Wotnot.
Переглядів 3 тис.4 місяці тому
Valve Amp Delayed Start- Fault Finding & Wotnot.
Fault finding & fixing a valve amp.
Переглядів 1,5 тис.4 місяці тому
Fault finding & fixing a valve amp.
Valve/Tube Matching - Is It Important? Matching 807's
Переглядів 7735 місяців тому
Valve/Tube Matching - Is It Important? Matching 807's
Testing 807 Beam Tetrode Valves/Tubes - Part 1.
Переглядів 4505 місяців тому
Testing 807 Beam Tetrode Valves/Tubes - Part 1.
Sanyo G-2615 N Briefcase Music Center.
Переглядів 1,1 тис.5 місяців тому
Sanyo G-2615 N Briefcase Music Center.
50w Class A 807 PPP Valve Amplifier Refurb - Part 2
Переглядів 6916 місяців тому
50w Class A 807 PPP Valve Amplifier Refurb - Part 2
50w Class A 807 PPP Valve Amplifier Refurb - Part 1
Переглядів 8296 місяців тому
50w Class A 807 PPP Valve Amplifier Refurb - Part 1
DIY Valve Tester - Penultimate Episode.
Переглядів 1736 місяців тому
DIY Valve Tester - Penultimate Episode.
DIY Valve Tester Build - Part Three.
Переглядів 1,3 тис.7 місяців тому
DIY Valve Tester Build - Part Three.
DIY Valve Tester Build, Re-Build - Part 1.
Переглядів 8397 місяців тому
DIY Valve Tester Build, Re-Build - Part 1.
Thanks for the video, I have a TSC-1000, cool to see any info about these. Any chance you ever came across a manual?
No wuckers. I did have a service manual for the TSC-1000, it & the TSC-2000 went to a bloke to get fixed, he lost the manual. I got it from a place that is no longer trading, Telford electronics. These were also made under the name Datatape which may give you a lead.TFW.
That amp is testing your patience. Sorry I didn't reply before the solstice but I've been down south for two weeks and now catching up on videos. One thing that would likely be of interest is how you got into electronics in the first place, maybe? Hope you have a good New Year sir!
Grand to see you back. Aye,the BGA is a problem child. I'll see what I can do re your suggestion. Have a good un yourself & all the best for 25.
This is similar to a method I used in the 60s to copy PCB designs. I would first remove all the components and clear the holes on the master. The drill through the master onto the pre-cut copy board. The next stage was to draw the tracks. I made a pad cutters with central, hole size posts and cutting scribes, one for the pad circumference and one for the pad spacing. These would cut about 270 degrees, allowing for the track to meet the pad. Cutting the tracks was done with a scalpel. The track border could just be peeled off. I've got to say that this worked with paxolin copper-clad, not sure if the same technique would work with FR4.
Great hands on free style very educational and fun content
hi andy,i begun to experiment negative feedback and i learn with yours vidéos ,id like to know if you put your scope on dummy load or on the grid of output tubes ,i made experiment only with square wave with the scope on the grid of output tube to adjust the best square wave at 1khz and 10khz.thanks
Dummy load. Grid of OP valves if something is wrong. If you scope the grid then your not testing the output transformer which is a big part of the amplifier. Well done for experimenting, good fun innit?
what was the formula , could not read it on screen
Apologies, an early video. The formula is (OD - ID x H)/2 {OD = outer dia, ID = Inner dia, H = height of core} to get your core area in cm squared. You then divide 42 by area cm squared, so 42/area. Hope that helps. TFW.
@@diabolicalartificer Thanks for your reply , Though on the video , I see , (OD - ID x H)/2 {OD = , that bit . Then it says something , which is the bit I can not read , Then I see , Turns per volt = 42/core area . Was the bit I could not see , say , outer dia, ID = Inner dia, H = height of core} ? that it ? And what you replied to my first question/comment the full and right formula ?
@@jayk2k The blurb reads - (OD-IDxH)2 = core area in cm squared. Turns per volt = 42/core area. To find turns per volt divide 42 by the core area. Example - 42/20 =2.1T per volt. So for a primary of 240v = 240 x 2.1 = 504 turns. However, this doesn't take into account the actual flux density of the core, so it's a general rule of thumb. I usually add more turns, if there's room. For a toroid, wrap 10 turns round the core, measure the total length to find how much wire you need, then add some on top as the windings get progressively longer the more turns you put on the core. I got this formula from - ua-cam.com/video/Q6GkSNfAEx4/v-deo.html as well as several free PDF's available online. See also Transformer Design & Manufacturing by Robert G Wolpert amongst others. I have an archive of numerous books etc in PDF form I'd be happy to share, drop me an email if so.
@@diabolicalartificer thanks will check that video in a sec . And what is your email ? Would love to see the book and pdfs
@@jayk2k It's there, no disrespect, use your brain.
also i can hear in yr voice yr not exactly on the top of the world today. fair play for making us a video anyway
Thanks, that's very perceptive & your welcome.TFW.
Gotta say mate you have one of the best u tube name's ive ever seen right up there with toltec merc an hyperspace pirate. i enjoy your content to greetings from the wet coast of wales👍
Bless you, it is a gob full though & hard to type. Greetings from the swamps on the East coast ish. Isn't the internet great? Om.
Hi Andy, I’m glad to see you have “finally” got there with the BGA! Thanks for sticking at it and highlighting the issues amp building entails. Looking forward to the sound tests. Those 5881’s were very reasonable, can’t remember how much exactly. : )
I suspect there may be a few more twists & turns. TBH most valve amps aren't as complicated as the BGA, but hope I show how to de-bug. I'll fettle the bugger yet.
Intermittent xistors are not unusual, I have found but a nasty one to find at times. Glad you found the crook xistor. Here is a fantastic tip to measure a Zener diode: Get an old eye type capacitor tester with variable output test voltage. The old eye type ones have current limiting built in. Place your Zener across the test terminals /leads. Place your voltmeter across the diode. Watch the meter and crank up the test voltage knob. When you see no more change in voltage across the Zener, that is it's regulating voltage. Raising the voltage will make no difference. I have, in my experience, fount this test 99.9% reliable and accurate. If you suspect the diode is intermittent you just monitor it and can either heat or cool it. This test saved me massive time & irritation in troubleshooting. Hope it can help you & your subscribers. It is also a great test for that pile of unknown Zeners you got in a grab bag.
Good tips there. I have a little zener checker which uses the same principle you outline. TFW.
Лампа 6Р4П вместо 6П14П ua-cam.com/video/wZ4m76vyKJY/v-deo.htmlsi=S21cZ6aM5nj_P455
Привет, 6N14N is equivalent to EL84, what is the point please? TFW.
Love the big green amp - seeing it provides a learning opportunity for you and us! Looking forward to hearing it sing for us!
Лампа 6Р4П вместо 6П14П ua-cam.com/video/wZ4m76vyKJY/v-deo.htmlsi=S21cZ6aM5nj_P455
Me too, hope you picked up a few tips & wotnot, TFW.
Hey, use Amorphous cores! They require less turns. Idk, I am learning more about this. Im aware of high power transformers with the amorphous efficiency gains.
Amorphous cores are out of my price range I'm afraid. TFW
@@diabolicalartificer They can be found on digikey, per kw they are much less expensive than a bought salvage toroid. On aliexpress they are super cheap, and they are legitimate, but probably over rated in power handling. Which you can go by physical dimesions as its impossible to fake the material. Its specific, and well, when the chinese have the machines, the stuff is cheap to make, like sheet steel. Honest, all inverters and power transformers like pole transformers should be using the amorphous toroid. Its been around for decades, it saves ten or twenty!percent when used in the same fashion. AND they are smaller and eaiser to cool, use less copper because the induction lengths to get the magnetic field paths are shorter. So it makes much more sense, scientifically they create less magnetic inducted heat, so hf and rf they are not doing anything bad. ITS just the garbling bohemith economy is slow and dead when it comes to legitimate innovation, they would do some weird switching digitized station shit, instead of just having low loss transformers with YA KNOW the thin sheet steel toroids. ANd winding the things are so easy a 3rd grader could do it.
Another good one Andy. Your videos are really informative and useful. I continue to learn more from them and realise that, while I'm not bad at troubleshooting problems, I've never actually built an amp from scratch. I have quite a few EL32 valves so maybe a good place to start? Cheers
Bless you, thanks. The EL32 is a bit under powered as an OP valve but if you have enough of them, parallel them up. That does add more complexity though and take up more room. Like anything, it's swings & roundabouts. TFW.
Andy- Did you think of grounding the input to the tone control amp when it is bypassed?
No I didn't, good point. TFW.
Love this version of MAGA! And I love seeing the engineering process in all its gory detail!
Thanks 7 glad someone got the MAGA joke. TFW.
This was another really instructive video - you are a clever chap Andy! FYI I've just finished getting an early 1950s amp and pre-amp going again for the first time in goodness knows how long and was amused to see two terminals on the amp, connecting to the pre, for 6.3v and also two more for HT!!! Health and safety?
Glad you enjoyed it. Was it a big/long job? Aye, they had a different approach in them days. I wonder how many, or if there were any, casualty's amongst the public as a result? I do resent some of the modern practices that are overprotective. That & the fervent hysteria that ensues when someone doesn't wear PPE on UA-cam. I think death & injury were just an expected part of life back then. Apologies, off on a tangent, cheers...
@@diabolicalartificer Hi Andy. It was totally original and most caps and some resistors were shot in both amp and pre. Biggest pain was that wiring was really dense and cramped and I had to restuff some electrolytics (which is a PITA as you know). It is a really nicely made thing with a choke, ecc40, ef40, kt61 x 2 and 5z4g. I suspect that there weren't substantially more accidents with audio gear as people who used it had more knowledge and common sense? Anyway I've been looking at the tuner and unfortunately the phantom bodger has been at work on it
@@BrumAdam Yep, some old radio's etc are a nightmare to work on, components crammed in everywhere & you have remove 10 to get at 1. Still, it keeps up busy, better than vandalising telephone boxes : ) TFW.
Hi, Thanks ever so much. I am beginning to understand it all a bit more now. Also like You I find building a test rig and taking measurements is not only useful but good fun as well. Best Wishes Jahmahrah
Yep, don't forget the fun : ) All the best, Andy.
Good stuff, as ever, Andy. Thanks!
Bless you, thanks. Hope your well & TFW.
What stuff he is always smoking??.....it must be good!?.....thx for the vid
What a curious comment, but TFW anyhoo.
Thank you Andy, need to get building and experimenting! : )
No wuckers mucker. Knowledge is like water in the cupped hand, on a warm day. Be sure to drink it before it disappears. TFW : )
great video Andy guru of valves
Bless you, I always wanted to be an aesthetic but haven't got the robes. Do I get to wear a funny hat? TFW : )
These are fantastic videos, the step by step creates a clear path to understanding. Thank you Sir!
Thanks, that's very kind, again, glad to help. TFW.
Thanks, for this. It is a complicated process so I've been using online loadline calculator at vtadiy to check the operating point of the tubes in my amplifier. Have you tried it?
Sorry Mr lucky, your comment disappeared for four days. It can be complicated, but to build one that works is very easy too. I rarely draw loadlines any more, I pop the graph on my PC, use a ruler to find a bias point & the value of the Rk, that's it. I then test & go from there. I've see the online calculators but i'm a bit old fashioned preferring pen & paper. they are an excellent tool though. TFW.
@@diabolicalartificer - fair enough. I've used that web-based calculator to verify load lines drawn on other YT channels but haven't found anyone that has used it so I don't know how good it is.
@@Luckiestmanalive-bb1mi I've used a few PC based calculators and design software like WinISD to calculate speaker cabs, a mains tfmr calc etc, all have been good, so it's probable the LL calc is ok. I have trouble with a lot of software as a lot use spreadsheets, no idea how to use them. Cheers...
You are an excellent teacher sir! Thanks so much for your time. I will definitely begin experimenting with this method using a, graph, schematic and a tube at the same time. You're right about how doing that really helps it sink in.
Thank you, glad to have been of some help. Valves are fascinating devices & an excellent way to get into electronics, as, compared to transistors, they are easy to configure. Once you get a basic understanding & have a play with some circuits, it gets easier to understand. TFW & Good Luck.
Thanks, this is one of the best explanations I've seen. Because it shows how to determine both resistors. Load lines have been frustratingly hard for me to grasp. What would be really cool, is to combine this video along with an actual breadboarded 6SN7 tube where you can demonstrate the current and voltage measurements with the resistors. A beginner like me can then see how the theoretical process connects to the actual resulting circuit. Very nice.
I shall try & do that for you. TFW.
@@diabolicalartificer What would be the resulting final schematic with all voltages and resistors shown is generally the goal I would think. So a beginner (like me) can relate the derived schematic to the completed graph markup one does. To eliminate all confusion, for example seeing that the 300 volts on the graph would be the voltage going into the anode resistor, not at the anode itself (one example of how this number always confused me as to where it winds up in the circuit). I never realized finding the cathode resistor needed to be computed using the grid voltage curve, on and on. Wow this is finally beginning to make sense. So many books seem to make assumptions about what the reader knows. I want to learn this basic process, to the point of annotating the graph while simultaneously annotating a schematic, I think that would finally lock it in for me!
Great, Thanks for doing this again, it's starting to make a bit more sense now. Just a quick question if I may, Can You put some currant at the maximum plate voltage? Say in Your example the load line was raised to 5ma at 300v (on a max 300v transformer) Would You HAVE to use a higher voltage transformer? (when the load line is 0ma at say 500v). I hope I explained it ok. I would appreciate any help You could give Me. Best Wishes Jahmahrah
For the purposes of drawing a loadline for a Class A common cathode gain stage, no. However for a SE Class A stage, yes. That's because of the load being a output transformer which means the load is inductive & can exceed HT/B+, please see Merlins Valve Wizard site for more info. Would I be correct in assuming your main language isn't English? Forgive my inability to speak your native language, I think we could understand each other better. Could you perhaps, make a short video with a valve graph, schematic or drawing? If you go to my channel page, click "more", you can then get in touch & send me the video. I will help if I can.
@@diabolicalartificer That's Great Thanks, I will get something together
Thanks Andy, I’m going to watch this several times later👍
No wuckers me old duck, hope it helps.
I think you should call on Paul Carlson, he'll come flying over the Atlantic wearing his cape and underpants outside his tights and sort your problem!
Thanks for your IP. Used to watch Mr C but no longer. I can sort the problem but like to share my FU's as well as my successes. TFW.
Tin whisker is by guess on the tube . Lead free solder is more of a problem than many think .
Could be right, though there is no lead free solder used on this amp. It's all 60/40 or 3% silver solder on the Tek wafers. TFW.
@@diabolicalartificerIronically you just stated the likely cause of the problem
Most other electronics fault finding channels show logical, relatively easy, trouble-shooting and fixes. Your amps always seem to have the weirdest problems! I admire your tenacity and skill, my friend!
It's mainly this amp, but yes, my amps have odd faults. Thanks for your kind words, there's more weirdness to come with this amp. TFW.
Interesting to follow your diagnostics even if the amp itself is not one that I'd have any enthusiasm for personally. Not much snow to speak of oop north where I am but, with wind chill, it felt like -10C yesterday night apparently!
Not keen on the amp myself really but like pitting my wits against a device. Snow mostly gone here, fecking cold though, got the scope & test gear in the living room near the fire. Global warming has an upside if your nesh, glad we don't get winters like we used too. TFW, take care, keep warm.
Thanks for the video.
Amplifiers do oscillators don't. My corollary to Murphy's Law.
Sounds like a Zen Koan, thou hath uttered great truth brother : ) TFW.
@@diabolicalartificer, all oscillators are amplifiers and all amplifiers are oscillator-wannabe's!
@@goodun2974 Yep, another truism. They're endlessly fascinating and frustrating at the same time, bit like some women I've known. TFW.
I sometimes used a slow-heating kenotron (rectifier or booster diode) such as PY88 as a delay element, with a relay coil in line with the plate. If a bias supply is beefy enough, it can handle the heater and plate current. Otherwise use EY88, 6D22S or other 6.3V heated one, and use the bias supply for plate/relay only.
Thanks for your IP. Not come across the term Kenotron before, though I know some of the lads over on DIYaudio use TV damper diodes for a similar application, they're harder to get here in the UK though. Also familiar with using the bias to activate a slow start circuit. To be honest though a soft/slow start circuit is a bit of a faff, something else to go wrong. Different ways of skinning a cat. The reason I used it in this amp & others is to give the caps an easier life whilst the valves start to conduct fully. TFW & hope you find these video's useful or whatever.
Nice amp. I like the Tektronix ceramic terminal strips there - I hope the maker used a lead-free solder with silver (common Sn97Ag3 should do).
Thank you. Yep, I did, 3% Ag. I have four Tek 500 series scopes, worked on them for years & have a few precious rolls of Tek solder but also have another four different types of Ag solder too. I have spare ceramic wafers if you need any. TFW.
Identifies as a Foden - obviously a Mr Hewes follower like myself!
Excellent, your the first one to spot that. I slip little bits into my video's, obscure music lyrics etc. TFW.
big green monster has come back nice amp
Looks nice, now I have to get it to sound nice. TFW
Andy- Sometimes just the way components and wiring is located can cause oscillation. I have seen a bug get in between pins on a tube not fully seated and become a "resistor". (Carbonized bug). In transmitters and some oscillator circuits, especially at high and VHF freq we used to take a jewelers saw and cut a slot in between tube pins to reduce capacitance, possible leakage, or arc over. Weird but it worked. I see your tube uses "coin bases" , which was used typically towards the end of tube production to cut down the cost of making Bakelite bases.
No idea what caused the issue, I tested them when I bought them. Anyhoo, the valve is KO'd, I'm sure it has heater cathode short too. The thin bases are a pain, nowhere near as good as a proper base, care needed when swopping valves. TFW as always.
When designing and testing control systems, one useful technique is to break the feedback loop and inject a signal from an external source. At first, that would usually be a DC supply, which enables you to understand what the circuit does at different feedback voltages, particularly the gain and upper and lower limits. The next thing is to inject an AC signal on top of the DC and measure the phase difference on either side of where you broke the feedback loop. Ideally, they should be 180 degrees out of phase so you have negative feedback. If the phase difference reaches 360 degrees and the gain is at least one, you've got an oscillator, which is not good. You need to do that at different frequencies because the phase shift is likely to be frequency dependent. We used to plot that on a graph, which makes it easier to see what's happening and predict which frequencies we should test, which saves time. It's interesting that almost no one seems to do that on any of these UA-cam electronic repair channels.
Thanks Steve for your IP. Funnily enough that's what I was going to do, I got the idea from Curious Mark in his recent video on repairing a HP clock, see ep 2. I've learned a lot from attempting to fix this amp, I've been getting guidance on UKVRR, contributions from folk like yourself too is very helpfull too, TFW.
@@diabolicalartificer It's easy to measure the phase difference at high frequencies because you can measure the time difference along the x-axis of a scope. This is difficult if the control system has a long time constant, but there's another way to measure the phase difference, which I learned from some really smart colleagues at ICL in the 1970s when testing a switched mode PSU with a 2-second time constant. You adjust the scope so the two signals are the same amplitude on the screen, then put the scope into x-y mode and look at the shape of the Lissajous figure. A diagonal line from bottom left to top right means the signals are in phase, while a circle means they are 90 degrees out of phase. My colleagues had an article on the technique published in Wireless World.
@@stevegreen5358 Thanks again Steve for those useful tips. Measuring phase difference is something I keep meaning to dive into, especially in my valve amps as the phase difference effects stability. That's a good tip there using the XY function of my scope. I have another scope which can measure phase, but it's a bit clunky & difficult to drive. TFW, cheers, Andy.
Hi Andy, good video and breakdown on that amp, following with interest as it would make for a similar build project in future. Just curious, does that Toroid have a soft start thermistor in the circuit?
Thanks. It'd make a terrible build project, it uses lateral fets which are rare as rocking horse shit or very expensive & risky to buy. No, no soft start, no protection apart from a crowbar basic as it comes & turning into a nightmare.
What can it be keep blowing fuse on speaker amplifier
It has one working channel, the other channel though is a nightmare to fix. Thanks for watching.
PCB mounted pots and sockets are a bad idea because soft soldering is just that, it's has no mechanical strength. Love that old Tek 'scope
Yep, bang on. The Tek scope on the other hand is a work of art, I have one for sale if your after one & are in the UK. TFW.
I can't remember how many cracked solder pads I ran into on controls. I just made it part of my PM to scrape back the trace and run a jumper from the control leg to the pad & trace. I especially hated working on any amp that was used in any place where drinking was allowed, as most of the time drinks got "somehow" spilled into the amp, then in a couple of days it would fail. Getting the sticky mess off the boards was no fun. Soft drinks were the worst. They could cause corroded traces and frozen up controls from the sugar syrup in the liquids. I always used denatured alcohol to clean off the heatsink compound with. Gas was too dangerous to use in a store , plus the fumes make me ill. Good going on it so far!
Thanks for your IP & TFW.
I've found the same occasional surprises with valve stuff - not all - where for example a quad ii and passive pre-amp are essentially silent with no audible hiss. However others aren't?! Even a Leak TL25 and mono preamp (which is notoriously noisy). Anyway a good video and thanks for making the effort to film these. Finally 40th anniversary of the beanfield next year - have any lessons been learned I wonder?
Noise as you say is a many headed beast, there on one setup, gone on the next & a nightmare to trace. The "thanks for filming" comment is much appreciated. The Beanfield, aye, 40 years ago, nuts. No one was sacked or held accountable for that & more laws have been introduced since then that restrict or punish "alternative" lifestyles & protest, so, in answer to your question no lesson's learned just more of the same old same old. Only a few owd buggers like you & me remember & care. Oh well, ce la vie. TFW.
Nice job, Andy. Testing caps can be problematic. I have tested NOS caps that test fine on 4!! different cap testers (Even my military LCR bridge and still were bad. El menco made ones were the worst. Sometimes just replacement is best.
Ta. Aye , your right, testing any component can be challenging. If your stripping a bit of gear right down, you may as well change components whilst your at it. TFW.
You put lipstick on a pig - it is still a pig ! Have to be honest everyone thinks the old valve stuff is amazing - but it is not the case as you can see with this.
True, but there will always be folks who think pigs with makeup, & maybe a touch of Channel #5 are quite dishy : ) In the end, the chap I did this for was happy & uses it more for tone shaping than crystal clear audio. TFW.
great job Andy
Thanks me duck.
Sade sounded great! Well done, finishing it up!
Glad some of the sound survived the processing. Thanks.
I did similar gain experiments in trade school decades ago. It is really educational to putter with the resistances and see just how they effect the waveform, as well as the xistor characteristics of different ones. Nice on the crowbar too.
Exactly, gain effects IP Z & OP Z as well as other parameters. Re crowbars I've have had issue's with them false triggering in the past but have hopefull got it right here. TFW.