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Thank! Md

Don't have a 955 in the shop presently but looking for a 755 (3tn72) camshaft.

@@theholeinthewater9452 its a 3tn84 fresh

Nice balance of power and usability...an 855 with a college education. Md

More information needed. Maybe snap some pics and send to email address that can be found by clicking on the Hole In The Water link just above the number of subscribers. I need to know where the oil is accumulating and if its on the mower deck, where. The main culprit is usually the power steering valve but could also be a hydraulic oil cooler line. I just replaced one and have a video coming on that when I get back to the shop (early September). md

@@theholeinthewater9452 I don’t have the mower deck on. I take some pics tomorrow and send them to you. thx again Dan

Tanks. There are two I use- the John Deere Series 220 Diesel Engines Component Technical Manual and the 655, 755, 855, 955, 756 and 856 Compact Utility Tractors Technical Manual both from JD. These and other files can be found on the facebool site here: facebook.com/groups/1329630413749779/files/files0 This is a private group but safe to sign up if you're not already a member. May I say, keep your 755 as close to original as possible. I'm the second owner of an early 855, 70A, and 60" mid-mower. A recent addition, I've been able to verify where things go on the Overbought 855 that's getting close to seeing daylight. Some day, an all-original tractor will be rare and price will raise accordingly (my guess). md

Excellent! One more saved from the rustbin! Never mind the experience learned from the mechanics, electronics, and patience during “updates”, if nothing more than something the kids can learn to drive on its a winner. Don’t have kids? Find some. md

You’ve noticed an interesting phenomenon I’ve yet to discuss. I’ll give you the short version and an explanation of what I perceive is happening. Digital camera frame rates vary with setup. Due to lower lighting conditions, and black parts, my camera is set at 30 frames per second. Other users often let the camera decide or are not aware of how this affects use. You’ve probably noticed propellers on airplanes seeming to run backwards or sit still, artifacts of what we can call: Sympathetic Motion (SM). When the shutter, and even LED light flicker are present weird things happen. 21:06 Smooth at fast idle 21:10 SM, occurs for 4-5 seconds 21:21 That “dizzy” or seasick motion I believe you’ve noticed. Here the engine appears to go directly from vertical to horizontal movement during that segment. Is that motion normal? Within reason, yes. All mounts on this engine are new and like new and are confining the rocking and rolling as designed. For peace of mind, look for a rupture...it’ll be obvious. Next, remove side covers and watch the mounts when the engine is turned off. The most violent movement happens when the engine comes to a stop. Lastly, pry up on the mount bracket. There should be resistance but not lift letting the cushion center bolts disappear. One other thing to notice on the 755 is that the air cleaner bracket it tight to the back of the head. It’s held on with too-small bolts and is prone to cracking at the reduction area behind the valve cover. My guess is that the mounts are still doing their thing especially if both engines are exhibiting similar movement. Glad to have the question/comment and hope others may see it and scratch their heads about digital artifacts. Cheers-md

That'd work. Craftsman was all I had. Have been using it at oil cooler too. Both lines on this tractor had been pulled down midway...snagged on something I reckon. md

Your communication is just fine and yes, my 955 stops (most of the time). Unless there are internal problems, Creeping is stopped when the shaft rotated by the speed control lever stops in the center position. Working from there: 1. The trunion bearing, that supports the trunion shaft in the transmission housing, is worn (rare and expensive). 2. The speed control lever (SCL)is loose on the shaft. If the mating surfaces are not tight, the bolt that squeezes them together may not be able to do so. To correct this the SCL must come out, the slot can be relieved to let the bolt clamp it further together, or a replacement will be necessary. Note the shaft can be worn some as well. In either of these cases you’ll need to reach the bolt from above, a difficult thing for you to do with cab in place. When under the tractor, wiggle the SCL to see if is loose on the shaft, not whether the shaft moves in and out of the transmission, but because it is not tight. 3. The roller must be free to contact the SCL without any packed grease spots AND not have any bearing roughness. I had one that looked good but the bearing was rough and not nesting in the “V”. Lastly, for this writing, adjusting the eccentric usually corrects only one motion. In other words, the tractor will always creep forward for example. If the tractor creeps forward after going forward and creeping backwards after going in reverse, the problem is more likely to be a loose SCL, stubborn roller, sticky eccentric lever, worn link ends on control rods, spring tension, and loose bearings in pedals, in that order. Review, look for loose SCL and for any play in the link ends. Check out Episode 12 Part one for linkage upgrade. ua-cam.com/video/s8kGiB_5i-o/v-deo.html Hope this helps. I’ll stick with you until you get it figured out so don’t hesitate to write. md

Thank you for the tips, especially the order in which to check all of the things. I will make sure to keep you updated and ask for help if needed when i have time to troubleshoot. And now that you said it, it makes sense that the eccentric usually helps only if the problem is in one direction. I didn't quite understand it from the technical manual since the terms aren't the easiest for a foreigner and i don't have much experience with these kind of things as i'm only 17. But anyways, thanks for the help so far.

Happy to help. md

I managed to find the operators manual on the internet today and figured out that I had missed two of the grease fittings while greasing everything under the tractor since they were so dirty. One of them was the inner fitting on the speed control pedals which is kind of hidden. The other was the one on the neutral return bracket pivot (the bracket with the return roller attached). After greasing them the pedals started moving much more smoothly and I asked my dad to hop in the driver seat and press the pedals and it looked like the roller returned perfectly into the slot on the scl. I also tried to wiggle the scl with my hand and it seemed to be tight so it shouldn't be the problem. We didn't test it today since the battery is charging. Hopefully it was just that the linkage was sticking since the grease fittings haven't been greased in a while because we haven't used it too much. So could be that the problem was just a lack of maintenance and use, will maybe test tomorrow and update you again.

Excellent!! Good catch finding those grease zerks. I'm impressed with your problem-solving skills and tenacity to get your dad's tractor safe to use again. Let me know how it goes.

I'd put the kettle (coffee pot) on. md

Dave, my diesel guy, related information that “original” diesel is still being produced for and stored by the military. If this is so, its reasonable to assume this “new” fuel has different properties. There’s so much to read here: Federal Register :: Regulation of Fuels and Fuel Additives: Changes to Renewable Fuel Standard Program that I prefer to go with experience and evidence of what I’ve found. That Ford tractor in the short clip hasn’t run in over 20 years and I bet it would start and run fine with that old fuel. May sample some and see how it looks. Now to your questions (and my thoughts). 1. Recommendations? First and now, I buy only what’s needed. I carry Diesel Kleen with Cetane boost in my D-Max and drop some in when I get fuel. From time to time, I’d get that typewriter click from an injector but after using it I haven’t noticed it happening. There’s also Opti-Lube XPD and ACDelco | Quality Automotive Products for most Makes and Models to check out. 2. Maintenance? I’d begin by adding a conditioner to anything having recently purchased fuel. I replaced the fuel shutoff shaft seal in the Overbought 855 governor housing. That’s the engine that threw the #2 connecting rod. I was told that engine ran in 2021 and the fuel shown in this video has been in its injection pump since then. When I put the shaft back in it wouldn’t rotate! Why? The rack was stuck! I’ll include this in the next EXTRA that modifies the sending unit. So...2021 fuel, sitting in an injection pump for 3 years, made it inoperative requiring the removal of the governor housing and a lot of fiddling and cleaning. 3. Older fuel? Great question. So far, it looks like at least some particles precipitate out of the fuel. At first, I thought the red dye was accumulating in the bottom of that glass jar but that appears to be whatever else is separating (note the stuff on the hose). Power Service has tank Kleen but my concern about cleaning storage containers is “where does the gunk and water go? If it's like some of my coffee, there are grounds that get by the filter and is why I never drink all of it...best to leave grounds and diesel contaminants in the bottom or throw them out. I think I'd look at the older fuel. Older fuel starts taking on more color toward yellow but harder to tell dyed fuel color change. Note also that I have no idea why the tar was on the BD fuel pickup AND, which I didn't discuss, the reddish goo that came from the bottom of the OB855 tank would not wipe off and was really sticky. Super Clean broke it up. 4. What have I learned? Something changed. I never thought about diesel fuel having a shelf life but do now. Last fall I fired up the 655 to move tractors in the shop and noticed that it was not running smoothly. I’ll bet the problem is the fuel. That fuel has to be over 10 years old! Wow! Time gets away! md

P.S. Any older fuel, if it isn’t yellow/orangish, and smell like turpentine, could be used IF mixed with fresh fuel and fuel conditioner. I wouldn’t run it in a newer engine with a high-pressure system but with older pumps and injectors it may be fine. After all, Dave freed the new injector with pliers, as did I with the rack in the 855 pump. It comes down to two questions, will the fuel ignite and will it stick pumps and injectors. First, it will probably burn and second, my problems were solved by pulling the injector apart and blowing carb cleaner through the pump while working the rack back and forth. Simplicity and yet another reason for keeping our 55s on the farm. Short of removing and washing fuel tanks out with a power washer, keep fuel in clean containers and change fuel filters once a year, no matter how many hours they’ve run. md

“Gunshy” may find its mention in a future Episode. Surrounded by carnage these little engines can produce, I, we, all know they can come apart with flair. Controlled Demolition comes to mind. md

Smooooooth. md

Yes, there’s a few things that can go wrong that aren’t easy fixes. Piston/head/valve interference not to mention rotating assembly clearances keeps a guy thinking about it in the middle of the night. For the time being, sorting it out is taking a back seat to an engine build for a customer. That should be done soon and everything is ready for start #3. Necessary adjustments have been made to the 755 but it hasn’t been started yet. The next installment will have some twists and turns and give a heads-up to the “will it start” people. I still don’t have the answers to the Blind Date, or is it Overbought now, but believe I’m asking the right questions - stay tuned. md

Thanks for watching and I’ll see if I can shed a little light on the problem. The solenoid needs at least 9 volts to “hold in”. Turning key to “on” energizes thermostart sending voltage to heater and solenoid. Turning to “start” energizes pull back and when engine starts and starter disengages, duty is handed over to the “hold in” circuit. From your description it appears the solenoid pull-back is working when starting and will hold-in when a remote voltage is supplied to it’s red wire. If this is the case, disconnect solenoid from harness, turn key switch to “on” and meter the yellow wire at the harness connector for more than 9 volts (heater will draw voltage down). Does the preheat light illuminate when key is on? If not, the thermostart may not be getting voltage either. Check the fusible link in big red wire coming from the starter as well as for loose connections/corrosion. The x55 manual has the low down on page 240-10-16, theory of operation on page 240-15-12, and schematics page 240-15-25. If you don’t have it email me and I’ll make sure you get one. Also I’d like to know what you’ve done so far and found. Maybe we can help other folks. md

Well, thank you for the complement. and you're welcome. I hope the content helps keep more of these tractors from the scrap yard. md

Series of steps...one at a time. Thanks for checking in. md

@@theholeinthewater9452 it is just like eating an elephant. One bite at a time! So can’t wait to see them done and looking good!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but... So far one suspicion was confirmed, and corrected, but there is a second that has me stumped. That one must wait for the next engine start. Now 5 days out from the posting of this Episode, (16) I’m awaiting the arrival of a fuel (lift) pump. No, this wasn’t a factor but would be as the one-way valve was not fully closing. When the front-mounted tank level was low fuel could siphon back making starting difficult. Of course, the original one-wire pump found on early 755s costs more than the average house payment! It's not a big deal but will take a bit of time to modify the two-wire replacement. Paralleling the building of the tractor-human relationship with “real” human ones was fairly simple. Then, two orphans (The Overboughts) were adopted, and the reality of the space/time continuum became obvious- overhaul motor (length), prepare peripherals ie. radiator/fuel system/electrical connector (width), replace remote hydraulic and trans linkage (depth) and produce videos (time). Comparing and contrasting the Blind Date project with other similar videos and channels on UA-cam two things stand out: many if not most engine-related projects are approached as though they are gasoline-powered lawn mowers (Free Tractor and Will It Start) and operated by people lacking knowledge of what these machines were originally designed to do; not overloading the MFWD axle for example. It feels like the 55s are destined to become “Classics”, rarer, and more valuable. At this juncture it's time to identify how the four dimensions can be managed, produced, and promoted. Episode 17 will begin addressing this, hopefully, soon. md

Okay I’ll wait patiently for “the rest of the story”.

I apologize for the long-winded reply, I was on a roll.

@@theholeinthewater9452 Oh my goodness please don’t apologize. I read it twice, I felt li As though I was in your shop and you were just talking to me, I enjoyed it. I read it twice to make sure I was following you. I follow another fellow who owns a couple 430 GT’s and he mentioned you, I said oh yes I watch you. He’s “Living out here”. Super nice guy but not real good with tools. He is very ambitious and gets a little of different projects done and shares his journey with us. He receptive to taking pointers. I had to let him know he was using his adjustable pliers improperly and he was grateful. He said, I lead with “I’m not a professional.” He’ll be a pro in no time if he keeps watching you. Again I appreciated the long winded response.

Very good suggestion and incorrect timing is a strong possiblity. You may remember that this engine from Blind Date tractor was missing fuel shutoff solenoid and pump had been molested (did not include evidence in former videos but will add in next). Now 2 days from video posting I have not had time to start the engine again. All I know at this time is that the general timing of crank, cam, and injection pump drive gears in gear case is correct (video review). Before attempting a restart other troubleshooting steps are being taken. Hoping to resolve matter in a few days. Thank you for suggestion. md

To avoid any gender confusion, lets call the male part a plug, #29 on main wiring harness #M115613 ($1.27) and since what I used to consider "the female part" is now called the housing, part number T100454 ($4.49). The fuel solenoid connector is shown as part of the solenoid and not available separately. The same female connector, excuse me, housing, is the same as one going to rear fender. Ordered from John Deere Parts. md

Right. All I know is that the pump was "running when parked". Given the state of the rest of the tractor, it could be the problem. We're not quite a day after posting of this video and I stll haven't been able to check it out. Re. #2, there's no video but at one point the ticking, hammering, clicking stopped momentarily and then started again! Hopefully, all of this delay and troubleshooting will help the next guy who makes a barn find and can't say NO!. Good suggestions, thanks. md

In case you haven't followed the journey, the impetus for this project is to make tractors out of a pile of parts (or that's what it's become). What are you working on, and do you have parts (or what looks like a tractor) for sale? No matter but watch for Episode 17 that will be coming soon. Episode 16 sets the stage but 17 is the one for folks wanting to start from scratch. Thanks for commenting. md

I want to know more! What’s going on and where are you on your project?

Good idea, thanks. md

Won't be long now. md

Sorry, didn’t get a notification from your comment. If they help one guy….. There’s so much content being produced its a wonder people find videos on this rather niche subject. The next Episode is going to be a doozy and should be seen by anyone resurrecting one of these survivors. Be patient. md

You're very welcome. md

Ironically a good friend and I were talking about the next Episode when he asked who would be in the market for a Classic (my feeling) series 55 tractor. The first person I thought of was one who had a two-wheel drive unit (332/430 etc.) and saw benefit of MFWD, Cat.1 - 3pt hitch, and 540 PTO. This was a simple answer for me - I had a 300 and traded it for a 655 (1986) and never looked back. For months I’ve been waiting for the right time to share my mind on these little tractors and that may be soon. Inspecting, diagnosing, and rebuilding is fun but the little things like radiator drain seals and such are pretty dry if not boring and uninteresting. However, fixing the small things leads to us building an intimate relationship with our tractors, lets us check those items off the list, and ultimately demonstrates that we take care of what we have. Kinda sounds like our personal relationships too, eh? md

@@theholeinthewater9452 the 430 is a great tractor and a great workhorse. However, like you said they have their limitations. The 430 has a 2000 RPM PTO and implements that run the 2000 RPM are hard to find this day and age. As you stated they are only 2 Wheel Drive. The differential lock helps, but having a 44 loader on it and not having four-wheel-drive makes it more difficult to run. Another benefit of the 55 series is the foot pedal controls compared to the 430 hand control for forward and reverse. I have stated this issue in many of my videos where I am using the 44 loader and saying it is controlled chaos with all the levers and trying to steer at the same time . I have truly been looking at the 55 series for quite a while and hoping to get one eventually.

Right. I’d forgotten about the hand transmission control and no power steering. Also remember the tiller had those two v-belts and was difficult to mount. My boy has a 4300 and picked up a 455, mower, and blower. Its really nice to drive but both of us prefer the 55s (he grew up with the 655 after all). Ah, well. Having run both designs, the 55s are a completely different experience. Soon I’ll decide if my calling is to continue saving tractors from salvage or concentrate on overhauling motors. Once that decision is made, the Overbought 755 will likely be looking for a new home, in case you’d be interested, and the future of the Blind Date 755 is up in the air. It’ll have a new motor, may be painted construction yellow (thought about it and then saw Neil Koch’ 318 and liked it) and may just stay here a while (can’t have too many 55s). We’ll see. md@@LivingOutHere

Thanks Lee. I didn't think there'd be much to post about reassembly, but unexpected snafus keep cropping up. Sure, even something as simple as putting in a muffler shield has an order to it. Hopefully Episode watchers will learn to appreciate these tractors for what they are and their reminder of a simpler and easy-going lifestyle. (Part Two is in the works). md

Excellent question. The shop thought they could patch it, but I wonder if a customer would be willing to run it. The freeze plug is a good idea. A round hole would distribute tension by avoiding sharp edges. How about a window? Really, the hole isn't in a critical location and the rest of the block is usable. It's a shame to throw it out so maybe a question to the 55s Facebook forum is in order to see how many folks would consider having a patched block. Now, if I knew how to conduct business on the FB. Let me know your thoughts on a bandaged block. md

The next thing to do is be prepared for milling piston tops! My machinist says it's no problem to do and with proper block prep for sleeves, these little engines can be born again and again. Schedule permitting, we'll have a video discussing sleeves in more detail...should be coming out soon (as soon as we get this engine is on the mill). Thanks for commenting. md

Thanks, good to be back with what may become an additional project. This video was meant for a customer but when he was unable to open it privately, it was made public. Since he didn’t mind it being seen by others, I thought “why not add it as an EXTRA?” This will provide yet another type of engine “failure” our people may find helpful. Stay tuned. md

Yea, how about that? This EXTRA was intended to show a customer the condition of his motor. When “Private” didn’t work making it “Public” did. The project demonstrates a worn out engine and may make an interesting project along side the Blind Date and Overbought series. Evidently yhe owner had trouble finding someone to fix it, we made a plan, and he sent it to be rebuilt. The block, head, and crank are at the machine shop and reassembly will likely begin around the first of February...look for it. Thanks for being a loyal watcher! md

Thanks for your patience and kind reaction to E.14 which has taken some time to be produced. As these tractors have been hanging around, like a millennial living in his parent’s basement, I really hate to see one go. The longer it takes to put one together the longer it will stay home and give me something to do. Eventually, hopefully soon, the next in line (Overbought 755) will be ready to leave the nest. I see you comment on the new 855 EXTRA. Do you think another engine rebuild story should be added? md

Great comment to receiving this morning. Here's a question - would you consider buying a 2WD 755? Why or why not? Thanks for writing and hopefully subscribing. md

Great to have you on board. The series wants to motivate folks to have an understanding of what to look for and what to expect when buying a used tractor. Like you, I've been looking at a 430 that needs work and a new home. Thinking that with a cab, mower, and snowblower, which are available, it would make a good package for someone. But when the cost of a good category O 3point and 540 rear PTO was figured in, just the 430 would be near the price of a 2wd 755! The only information I have about the 750, and 3T80 engine, is that motor parts are spendy. Consider changing oil frequently if engine doesn't reach operating temps. It will want to burn out moisture to keep rings from gumming up. Make sure thermostarts are working and use a block heater if its cold. A lot of guys, including me, don't work these engines hard enough. Diesels are made to work. Thanks for checking out the videos. md

@@theholeinthewater9452 a block heater is a great idea. Thanks. Delivery should be in two weeks. It's at local jd dealer getting fluids and filters changed and injectors cleaned or replaced. Thanks for the advice.

Happy motorirng!

Interesting story and thanks for subscribing. If I may, before removing the injection pump confirm the fuel “lift” pump is working and that it is getting diesel fuel and not gas. Those pumps are usually trouble-free and if there’s any question about injectors, a new set is about $100. If the injection pump is pulled make sure it engages the rack on reassembly (consult the 220 manual), or it will/can bend and cause a lot of misery. I can’t stop thinking there’s a fuel quality or problem with availability somewhere. Dave, my diesel guy, says those plungers can stick and are an easy fix. It’s odd that two would fail at near the same time. The “Overbought” 755 (future Episodes) pump wasn’t showing fuel when running the compression test so I may be following you on this issue. Usually, if these things get fuel, glow plugs are ALL working, and there’s good compression, they run until parked. Letting them sit is not good for them. You mentioned low compression. If you don’t mind, what were the readings? md

@@theholeinthewater9452 I’m not quite sure it’s been parked in shed since I got it been waiting to get to it since I had surgery. If I remember cylinder 3 that had low comp was only like 55psi or so lower when I tested it. It was dry from sitting before and didn’t wanna turn over too much but figured when I get it pumping again it’ll probably come back to life get some lube in there. All of the parts were pulled before I got it he took to dealer and that’s what they came up with. Haven’t gotten to it yet but probably will this spring. I was tempted to take pump apart and clean it up see what was wrong but didn’t know where I could get parts I was previously JD Road tech and ik the parts manual for these kinda suck on availability. it was a fuel issue for sure 2 and 3 weren’t pumping at all and 1 would half squirt seemed like I was getting fuel up to the banjo bolt. I have a pretty good idea on what I’m doing but can’t find anything for the pump parts wise. You think it would be smart to take the pump apart on my kitchen table and lay it all out and clean it up and try to see if I can save it before sending it off lol. I don’t have a whole lot goin on at the moment and injectors are very cheap compared to some so no issues there. I’ve also had lots of brand new and reman JD injectors bad right out of the box so I have no fear ordering the cheaper ones

My guess, not having been in there, is that the plungers are sticking. Kitchen table with plenty of light, coffee, blizzard going on outside, and plenty of wood in the stove? Pull a delivery valve and see what it looks like in there. What can go wrong? I might fashion a fitting so an air hose can supply some type of constant pressure, shoot some WD40 in and turn the engine over before pulling the pump. If the pump is already out then shoot the air in and see if they’ll go back down. If all else fails, email me at the address in the description above and I’ll give you a contact. You’ll tell him the guy with all the Yanmars sent you. md@@CH-dk8cs

Busy fall with family and time simply got away. 18 minutes of Episode 14 has been edited with 5 or more to go so hopefully, it will be completed soon, Full disclosure: when E14 was started, it took time to figure out where I'd left off, what video I had, and what was to be included. A word to the wise? Have a place for everything, keep everything in its place, and refrain from taking three tractors apart at the same time! Merry Christmas to you as well! md

You're very welcome. If I can help one guy, like yourself, gain the confidence to tear into one of these things, it's worth it. md

Time flies when we're not doing anything!. While summer temps roasted Kansas, this guy hid out at the Michigan cottage and helped greet visitors to a historic copper mine. Then, a couple weeks ago he made a quick trip south to play in a show and do some wrenching, got covid, didn't feel like doing anything, time ran out, back to Michigan for another show, and will be heading south mid-October for another show and to resume the projects. The new Blind Date engine head has been flattened and crank turned .010 under so that will be in the works. Still not sure of BD's future. Thanks for reminding me there are still stories to tell and that people are watching (or not watching in the latest case). md

Thank you for commenting. By sharing the comment with a reply means we both matter, doesn't it? I think so. md

Since I don’t know what you want the tractor to do, I’ll make some observations. I’ve owned a Ford 8N, Jubilee, 861 gas, 961 diesel, JD 50, 3020, 4010, 4020, 4230, 4440, “H” International, and the 655, 755, 855, and 955 series of JD compact utilities. Of these my favorites are the Ford 861 or 961, JD 3020, and the JD 855. Combined, these tractors will fit any smaller operation, up to a 160-acre farm. Notice all of these are “old” tractors rather than new. For yard/garden work - JD 855, brush hogging 5 acres and dragging stuff around - Ford 861 gas, and for small farm field work - JD 3020. Implements, parts, and tractors are popular and readily available. Since you found this channel, I am assuming you’re looking for a used small tractor and so I’d suggest you consider a JD 755 or 855 first. They hold their value, there’s a huge community of owners that will help with questions, and the 55 series were just ahead of their time in controls and features. If you find a cheap Ford, try it otherwise steer toward a JD. P.S. If you let me know how you’d use the tractor I'd be happy to provide more inside information. Thanks for checking out the channel - tell your friends (and have them subscribe?). md

Thanks James. I'll bust a move on some things that are in the pipeline. Just before Christmas in 2015 I bought two tractors within 10 minutes of each other - an 855 outside of Milwaukee and a 955 in Missouri. Like other “good deals” the inner voice said “do it” and the calls were made before doubt and indecision (and common sense) took over. Since then prices have gone up and the number of good deals seem to be going down. What began as the Blind Date became an exercise in saving questionable units before they were stripped and salvaged. To the air cleaner issue. I can see the poor thing trying to breathe and instead, sucking oil up past the rings and into the combustion chamber. With less oxygen power would be reduced and the engine would emit more smoke because injection pump would squirt more fuel in order to keep up. This is probably why it is running cleaner now and it may just need to be worked. The 7500 is a cute little unit. By the way, I still have that Christmas 955. It the one that’s complete with cab, heater, and 59 blower. Aren’t these little tractors fun? md

Thanks for watching. Work on the 755 and 855, the Overboughts, is temporarily on hold while I attend to overhauling a cottage in Michigan's UP.. There's another Blind Date EXTRA and update in the works so be patient. More to come soon. md

Great question. Lets take a look at what making this work would require. Maybe someone will see this thread and have thoughts of their own (before opening it up to Facebook?). I’ve thought about having a hand-set to control the transmission mainly to give my foot a rest. Sure, the “cruise” knob can be used once we’re moving but that’s not the issue here. The complicating factor is the “return to neutral” feature of the pedal assembly. A right-hand lever fixture could set a speed, and cruise” but interfere with loader operation. To overcome this, how about, and I’m thinking out loud here, mount two pedals, or one rocker type, on a frame with a heel support above the left hand brake pedals. Either use two closed hydraulic circuits and two pedals, or the rocker with with a double-acting bell crank device connected to the transmission lever. This would be relatively simple to design and install. A “parking brake” lever could be suspended from the fender or seat bracket that connects to the RH brake pedal with ball links. While we’re at it, a simple to install step from the left platform is warranted and I’m working on one of those for my 955. Let me know what you think. I’ll be inquiring about suitable hydraulic cylinders etc. Thanks for reaching out. I think adaptation is doable. If you don’t mind, where are you in case we want to develop this? md

It is nice up here but don't have a place to work on the tractors.. Started a fire last night (6/26)! md

Thanks for noticing (with all that snow kind of hard to tell). Watching again, I was reminded of stepping outside, feeling like I should have been running the 955, but the new knee was only 9 days old! md

My pleasure Tim. There's a line in Hello Dolly (the musical/movie) when Dolly is talking about Horace Vandergelder (played by Walter Matthau) "Money, pardon the expression, is like manure. It's not worth a thing unless it's spread around, encouraging young things to grow. This is what us old guys prefer doing, spreading knowledge that is. md