Відео

@@artemporkhun1407 Straightening when the blades are annealed is usually best done in a 3 point bending method. Lots of people make up a jig that mounts in a bench vise that has two supports close to either end on one jaw and the other jaw has a support that pushes in the middle. If you search for “3 point straightening jig knifemaking” you should find some videos. Denis Tyrell and Tony Severieo did some videos on their setups.

@@kimchan382 You could for sure give it a try, I think it would probably work. I think the ball is much better because there is not a sharp stress concentration that is left in the dimple.

@@FletcherKnives Glad to help buddy! 🤘

No. That’s not true, and if the knife does it was improperly treated.

@@googleenshitified great to hear! 🤘🤘

@@mgannotti Thank you! Your support and friendship has been awesome! Thanks for all you do for the community!

@@mgannotti Thank you! 💪

@@redraven1604 It is really helpful for marking out precise measurements in certain applications.

@@KHDailyKnives So just like the Inca Ruler but less blood & pissed off neighbours then, gotcha.

@@sirmontag your welcome! Glad you found the video so helpful!

Thank you!

I have been crazy impressed with how well it works. It has saved me literally $1000’s in warped magnacut blades.

Thank you! It has helped me a ton!

Thanks for the support!

Thank you for the support! 💪

Ah, thank you for your colorful commentary! 💪

What an amazing comment. Please post your work so everyone can see how it's done

@@toddharrington9071 Grinding a billet of steel into something vaguely resembling a kitchen knife isn't some grand accomplishment. Anyone can do it. The difference between a good kitchen knife and junk isn't about what steel it's made of. It's about ergonomics, weight and balance, the blade profile and the cutting geometry. Most chefs like a neutral or slightly forward balance, flatter profiles that don't strain the wrist or require extra hand movements, and grinds that don't require some massive 2 mm secondary bevel at the edge with a 25 degree included angle. Most of mine are 20 degrees inclusive and the edge bevel is barely visible because of how thin the grind is where it matters. The best kitchen knives will have subtle convex bevels which push ingredients away and give excellent food release. It's all about the details.

@user-xf4es7eh9y irrelevant comment in this thread. The video was showing how he straightens a bowed blade after temper. Your original comment was saying how shitty the blade design was. Cool but nothing really to add. But it definitely seems like you can't make a knife yourself. Because if you could, you wouldn't be critical toward someone who puts a lot of time, effort, and passion into it. A good chef doesn't just talk shit if a cook/chef is bad at cooking. They coach them and make them better. Are you a chef? Maybe you don't have those qualities yourself. If not, you should try to be better for you and for your cooks

It is making compressive stress in the blade. The advantage of the ball over the carbide chisel is the rounded divot is much less of a stress concentration than the triangular divot made by a carbide chisel. It is still possible to crack a blade if the warp is extreme, but I have straightened about 400 blades and have had 6 crack while straightening.

It has worked well on every blade steel I have used it on.

I hammer after all temper cycles are completed. For magnacut I do 2 tempers at 350F for 2 hours each.

@@KHDailyKnives thank man. Great channel

I think so dude.

As in has to be carbide

@@harrytaylor2401 thanks for the reply. Just watched a few other videos that explained what’s happening and why it has to be carbide lol. Might have to make my own, although I only have one bent knife and I’m not a blacksmith lol

@@alexh.4068 it doesn’t have to be carbide, but it has to be harder than what your blade steel is. For most knife steels they are 58-65 HRC, which is very hard. The tungsten carbide is 90 HRC, so it is able to indent the blade steel to straighten it. Let me know if you have any further questions and I will try to get those answered.

@@KHDailyKnivesI’ll just tap on it with my carbide tipped hammer drill bit, maybe I can sell hammers like this ;)

Glad the video was helpful!

Part of my learning experience on UA-cam making videos…There are many examples on my website as well as Instagram. I also wrote a book showing all the steps with photos and dimensioned drawings on my website for 5 different filework patterns.

@@KHDailyKnives But I don't want to go to your website I was invested in watching the video here on youtube waited all the way to the end and you didn't show the completed project a little silly I think

@@bikepony3498 Thank you for watching to the end, not sure what else to say...I made the video 5 years ago. You can not edit a video once it is uploaded other than taking it down completely. Also, thank you for continuing to voice your displeasure for all the work I put into making the video.

Thank you for the very kinds words! Thanks for the support and hopefully more info soon on the plates!

That is so great to hear! Glad it worked well for you! If you have a twist, you want to angle where you hammer to be in the valley of the twist. Just like how I started in the middle of the warp here. I usually don’t get much twisting though.

@@KHDailyKnives thanks. Sounds like a little 3d chess for me this evening...bit tough to visualize but I'll give it a go

@@navygeek if you need some help, send me a picture on Instagram and I will try to help draw lines where to hit.

The carbide ball is 90 HRC, it should work on any steel that is softer than that. I haven’t used maximet and can’t say for sure.

I have not had a carbide ball break so far. I have done about 400 blades now and it is still going strong. The ball is in compression when striking and is also supported by the braze around it. The light is the rechargeable Milwaukee 2112-21. It is a nice light and has more led emitters than the lower brightness one that seems to work better for looking at the bend I think.

The hammer is creating compressive stresses in the steel. Compressive residual stresses are known to increase both the fatigue strength and resistance to stress corrosion cracking. It would be similar to shot peening if you want to check out more info on that. This straightening method is not a new one and has been used in the saw blade industry as well as the Japanese knife industry for a long time. The method however is not 100% effective without cracking the blade. I have straightened around 400 blades and I think it has been 6 that have cracked while straightening / grinding. Some people have said they like to do an additional temper cycle after hammer straightening which they say has helped. I might start doing some of that too. The blades that have cracked on me usually looked like there were other things going on in the steel, but sometimes it happens. The hammers have saved me tons of frustration and scrap steel and have been so helpful with my kitchen knives specifically. I have looked at many under the microscope in the beginning and did not see any micro cracking around the dimples. Hope that helps answer your question.

@@KHDailyKnives sure does! Thank you for responding!

Thanks man! Always appreciate getting good info out there. Going to try and do some more content on UA-cam again.

Thank you very much!

So glad the video was helpful! I have seen the warp come back a few times. Grinding both sides evenly helps a lot, but I always make sure I keep an eye on how things are progressing.

You very welcome! Glad the video was helpful. It has worked very well for me doing it this way.

Thanks buddy! Good videos are much harder to make than one would think!

Thanks man! 💪 Magnacut is awesome once it is in a knife. Sometimes it fights you the whole way.

Thank you! 🤘🤘

Thank you! Going to try and get some more tip videos put up here on UA-cam.

Awesome man! So glad to have helped a little!

Thank you for the kind words!

I split the difference in the range of temperatures. I hold for 15 minutes at 1175 F, then 1425F, and then 1950F for 30 minutes. It usually takes around 3 hours from start to finish in my eveeheat. The holds add a lot of time, but I think it helps to make sure the blades are at those hold temperatures. I also have a 220V oven so that helps to heat up faster.

Thanks buddy! 😜😜 I am going to have to do a part 2 of this video like Brian House told me to do.

There are many pictures of the completed filework on my Instagram page KHDailyKnives.

The material specification sheet says it tops out at 59 HRC for 154CM.

The colors are some of the natural colors from heating the blade. Sometimes it can be from the little bit of oxygen that oxidizes in the packet. I wish it was more consistent, I think it looks rad!

It is about 60 seconds for a larger kitchen knife. Pairing knives are only about 20 seconds.

Thanks man! I hope to devote some more time to the channel eventually.

Thanks man! 💪

Thanks man! That vise is relatively inexpensive for how great it is. They go on sale on Amazon pretty frequently and get around the $200 mark sometimes.

It is called a height gage. I bought this one from Grizzly tools. Make sure you get one that has a carbide tip. That makes it much easier to get a clean line in metal.