Відео

Clutch is left of the brake, conventional car location. Stock steering arms are cast with the uprights and greatly limit geometry flexibility. I cut those off and used fabricated bolt on arms that attach at stock fender brace bungs. That allows the arms to be located at the angle and height needed for any particular application and desired amount of Akerman affect, even allows for the use of leading or trailing steering. Attachment of the A arms at the frame and uprights allows shimming to get the desired caster and camber.

Thanks I appreciate that.

Sorry, there are no plans to share. I do have other videos on line that show it's bare bones better.

Kind of you to comment. Thanks

Dark gray

That would be nice. I considered both and could have easily gone that way.

One piece of aluminum sheet, home fabricated.

I have some fenders. They rattle and shake, so lIeave them off. Fender laws yes, but they are not enforced.

Thanks, Vanderhalls are cool.

Thanks for your interest. Check out marc90wolf reply.

Hello Jimmy. I cut pieces of .040 aluminum sheet to press fit in the back the radiator end caps and applied the adhesive reflectors to those. I put a couple of strips of masking tape on the back side of the aluminum to provide some insulation from the radiator so hopefully the adhesive on the reflector will not dry up from heat exposure so fast. Even if it does it all fits so tight it should stay in place. The adhesive backed reflector strips came from Ace hardware, about 2"by 8" then cut to size. 4 in a pack I think, about 6 bucks.

@@Khronicks Thanks! Really helpful!

I tried vinyl. Beyond my talent. Primer, 3 coats of Duplicolor engine paint base, 3 coats 2 part epoxy clearcoat, wet sanded and buffed.

@@Khronicks thank you! Very well done 👍

Thanks. No heated grips. I am not so hardy to ride much when it's cold out. You read my mind on the tires. Looking to Dunlop Mutants, maybe one step up in size.

@@Khronicks Hehe, in also looking at the Dunlop Mutant, they look good

Thankyou. Stock bars with crossbar removed, mounts ground off and Duplicolor bronze wheel paint sprayed on.

@@Khronicks thanks, good job ✌️

Thanks for your comment. It is a Dart Marlin made for a couple of Triumph models, not for Huskys. Mounts had to modified and Svart's headlight moved forward one inch on tabs fabricated to get the fairing to fit flush with the headlight while still clearing the instrument pod. It is near worthless for wind protection but does keep down reflections on the hard to read instrument cluster.

@Khronicks I see. Thank you kindly for the quick reply and detailed response! I'll axtuallt consider it for estetic purposes when my bike comes in. Still looks amazing though!! :) Dry asphalt!!

@@Khronicks How did you modify the mounts? I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

I can see your concern. It is not but the cap & filler are in the open below the compartment below a gasketed door. I should be ok. I have never smelled gas on my light jacket and hat I keep back there. Of course I have be careful not to spill while fueling. Remember the old Beatles? Filler & Cap fully within the trunk. That's a little more sketchy.

Thanks for saying so. I like it better, but I must say the net interest in this latest style is a lot less than the prior versions. Many like to say it is not important what others may think as long as you satisfy yourself. Not me. Maybe not primarily, but I like my results to please others as well. Could be just the video style? It is what it is. I think , after 13 years, except for some possible minor tweaks, I have reached the end of my affair with reverse trikes or home built vehicles.

Thanks for commenting Murry. But don't you see, the low full seat, safety harness, rack &pinion steering and full wind protection is more akin to a small formula racer experience than to a Spyder? Much less likely to suffer broken bones and ground away flesh. Way more fun, comfortable, safer. If I had used Chevy front end components, would you say might as well have bought a Camaro? I choose the Can Am parts because they were lightest components readily available that provided adequate strength and ample braking power for the weight of the trike.

@@Khronicks Don't fool youself this is anything but a death kart, you will die in a collision. The front end is the entire key of a vehicle like this, so not using something innovative or cheap, but use the parts from an existing reverse trike bike is well just not impressive. Just my opinion.

@@murraymadness4674 Hey, thanks for the advice Murray.​ You seem to be very knowledgeable. Would you please post a link to pictures of what you have built or be more specific about the changes I should make so I can pick up some clues? I'd be grateful.

@@Khronicks I've built numerous cars from scratch, two trikes, and building a third trike right now, which is how I got to your video. They are fwd, why have one-wheel drive?

@@murraymadness4674 Cool, I would love to see the trikes. Again please post pictures or links to. I went rear wheel drive as it is a much simpler build if motorcycle based. I have an aversion to the understeer baked into front drivers that dampens the fun for me. As I am sure you are aware, tadpole trikes are predisposed to understeer anyway as all the roll resistance is at the front. Putting power to the fronts just magnifies this dynamic shortcoming. No way to achieve the extreme light weight (625 lbs) and 14000 rpm redline I get with my trike if fwd based. Why not just buy a Civic ? But I do appreciate the conversation and different perspective. Tell me more.

Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching

It's different in every state. Unless you live in Okla my situation and requirements will not be relevant for you.

@@Khronicks I’m in Alberta and we have a custom made vehicle section but it’s not very detailed

@@Khronicks I'm here local OK, and I'm looking for exactly that information!

@@NN1Ckl. If based on a currently registered bike, you need only weld in VIN carrying piece somewhere on the frame and continue yearly registration of the donor. It is essentially a modified version the donor. If you build from something unregistered, it's more complicated. Find confirmation of this before proceeding.

@@Khronicks Thank you. You removed some guesswork

Thanks 👍

Not sure. Probably 6 grand or so to get it on the road and more than that since.

Thanks for your interest. DS 2.5 is no more. It has Morphed to DS 3.0 and is not for sale thanks. www.pinterest.com/pin/647392515195789154/

Thanks , but very labor intensive to build, not practical for production. It would have to be redesigned by an engineer qualified in such things. Many have proven it is hard to make a profit on small niche vehicles.

Sell plans.

It’s definitely way cooler than a Can Am

Some capacity is added, another 20% or so, though I did not test, so It is only a guess. No change in the water pump. Extra plumbing means more heat dissipation surface. It's hard to get it to operating temp on colder days. I suspected bad thermostat but new was the same result so I partially block the radiator to make the heater work effectively. Cooling fan rarely is triggered, unlike many bikes I have owned. I would attribute some of that to no front forks, fender, or wheel in the way.

@@Khronicks Yeah, I see. You'd probably do better to wrap the hose with insulation. I know I'd definitely do whatever I could to get some heat if I had that here in Alaska! Anyway, it's the coolest thing I've seen in awhile and you've really got something to be proud of.

@@camgreer Thanks. The portion of the plumbing running through the cockpit (most of it) is insulated, not to preserve heat but to keep heat out of the cockpit in summer. I had to plumb through as the pipes would be vulnerable underneath and unsightly if affixed to the side.

Its a Pegasus racing unit. Best to get all the particulars at their web site. www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=3091&gclid=CjwKCAjw-e2EBhAhEiwAJI5jg1209E79ShSZY9LC2lXbLQgUkyxTyf41bqjxhzWLT9rkCzt4Q-zkYxoC1LUQAvD_BwE

@@Khronicks thank you sir!!!