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Gbonii
Приєднався 5 вер 2016
Hello there! I am a photographer from New Jersey who specializes in outdoor/adventure lifestyle and portrait photography. I use both digital and film for my photos so expect to see a lot of both from my channel
HUGE Film Camera Thrift Haul (OLYMPUS MJU II FOR 5 BUCKS!)
Thank you for checking out my video! It was a long one. I found a mint Mamiya C3 kit for $180 a few days after making it too haha. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed!
Let me know what you'd like to see next!!
Instagram: gbonii
Twitter: @garyboni
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------- Thrift, thrift haul film camera thrift pickups, First time buying 35mm film, how to buy cheap cameras, 35mm Film buying guide, Film,story,first time,shooting,35mm film,develop,film is not dead, minolta,short film,vintage,darkroom,fujifilm,cannon,x-700,htsi plus,how to shoot film, kingjvpes, minolta SRt101, portra 400, Berkeley, Cal, Norcal.San Francisco, golden gate bridge, point reyes, 28mm, olympus XA, Canon autoboy, canon af35m, expired film, cheap film, best cheap film, how to shoot a film camera with a broken light meter, broken light meter, broken meter, how to light meter, agfa vista 400, tomography color 100, canon eos 3, 85mm 1.8, film camera giveaway, best films, best 35mm film, top 5 35mm film, $3 film camera, $3 Leica, Cheap leica, Free Leica, Leica, yashica mat, yashica 124, yashica mat 124, expired tri-x, Nikon f3, Canon A-1, Minolta x-700, Seattle, black and white, money, sharp, groot, street, how to develop color film, how develop black and white film, street photography tips, how to street photography, how to take photos, beginner film photography, film photography for beginners, tips for film photography, how to film photography, beginner film photography tips, free film camera, how to thrift, make money photography, thrift adventures, thrift store shopping, landscape photography on film, cheap film camera, expensive film camera, lomography, cheap vs expensive, nikon f3 vs, film haul, film camera haul, film making, how to take product shots, product shots, photography workshop, street photography workshop, how to improve photography, why you're photography is not improving, motivational, Street Photography inspiration, Leica rangefinder, creative filters, creative filter portrait, nikon 35ti, compact film camera, Photo books, Street photobooks, street photography photo books, overcome creative ruts
Let me know what you'd like to see next!!
Instagram: gbonii
Twitter: @garyboni
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------- Thrift, thrift haul film camera thrift pickups, First time buying 35mm film, how to buy cheap cameras, 35mm Film buying guide, Film,story,first time,shooting,35mm film,develop,film is not dead, minolta,short film,vintage,darkroom,fujifilm,cannon,x-700,htsi plus,how to shoot film, kingjvpes, minolta SRt101, portra 400, Berkeley, Cal, Norcal.San Francisco, golden gate bridge, point reyes, 28mm, olympus XA, Canon autoboy, canon af35m, expired film, cheap film, best cheap film, how to shoot a film camera with a broken light meter, broken light meter, broken meter, how to light meter, agfa vista 400, tomography color 100, canon eos 3, 85mm 1.8, film camera giveaway, best films, best 35mm film, top 5 35mm film, $3 film camera, $3 Leica, Cheap leica, Free Leica, Leica, yashica mat, yashica 124, yashica mat 124, expired tri-x, Nikon f3, Canon A-1, Minolta x-700, Seattle, black and white, money, sharp, groot, street, how to develop color film, how develop black and white film, street photography tips, how to street photography, how to take photos, beginner film photography, film photography for beginners, tips for film photography, how to film photography, beginner film photography tips, free film camera, how to thrift, make money photography, thrift adventures, thrift store shopping, landscape photography on film, cheap film camera, expensive film camera, lomography, cheap vs expensive, nikon f3 vs, film haul, film camera haul, film making, how to take product shots, product shots, photography workshop, street photography workshop, how to improve photography, why you're photography is not improving, motivational, Street Photography inspiration, Leica rangefinder, creative filters, creative filter portrait, nikon 35ti, compact film camera, Photo books, Street photobooks, street photography photo books, overcome creative ruts
Переглядів: 5 233
Відео
I ACTUALLY Used The SUPREME Film Camera
Переглядів 6 тис.3 роки тому
I hope you enjoy this overview/review and sample photos from the Supreme Yashica film camera. The camera released a few weeks ago in the SS21 season of Supreme and was super hard to get. I'm glad I was able to snag one to actually use. Dont forget to follow me on IG and Twitter: IG: gbonii Twitter: @garyboni - - - - - Supreme, Supreme Yashica, Supreme film, Supreme SS21, First tim...
Olympus Stylus 120 Overview (SUPER UNDERRATED POINT AND SHOOT)
Переглядів 7 тис.3 роки тому
Found this Stylus 120 for $5 at a thrift store and I am very impressed with the results it's given me. For less than $100 on Ebay, you cant go wrong with snaggin one of these to carry on you at all times. I think these get overlooked when people are too busy with the Mju or stylus zoom. Check me out on Instagram and Twitter! IG: gbonii Twitter: @garyboni - - - - - - How to buy fil...
DEVELOPING FILM AT HOME (Everything You Need to Know)
Переглядів 2564 роки тому
Thanks for watching! Below is a list of the supplies I used and the links if you want to check them out! Sharpie- come on Gloves- Walmart/Home Depot/etc. Film- BHphoto Film Retriever- www.amazon.com/Kaiser-204132-Leader-Retriever-Black/dp/B0007KS7DA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3VG6XL7L21RX6&keywords=film retriever&qid=1581544430&sprefix=film ret,aps,181&sr=8-1 Film Clips- www.adorama.com/dkfc.html Film Bag...
Over/Underexposing Vs. Pushing/Pulling
Переглядів 19 тис.5 років тому
This video I go over the differences between overexposing/underexposing and pushing/pulling film. Enjoy! gbonii rasheedingram
I FOUND 40+ YEAR OLD FILM AND SCANNED IT
Переглядів 1 тис.5 років тому
How cool would it be to find out who's in these photos? Thanks for watching! Like and Subscribe Instagram: gbonii
EASILY CONVERTING 120 FILM TO 620
Переглядів 9 тис.5 років тому
This video shows how to get 120 film to fit into most 620 cameras without respooling your film! Follow me on Instagram: gbonii
Shooting 20 Year Old Expired Film!
Переглядів 4705 років тому
Vlog 1 Like and Subscribe! My Instagram: gbonii
THE BEST MEDIUM FORMAT CAMERA FOR BEGINNERS + How to load film
Переглядів 5 тис.5 років тому
Hey guys! In this video, I'll go over what I believe to be the best starting out medium format camera which is the Pentax 645N as well as showing how to load the film into it. Hope you enjoy!
MY FILM CAMERA COLLECTION (JUNE 2019)
Переглядів 5 тис.5 років тому
whats up guys, just showing you my collection of film cameras and a few stories of how I got them and all that jazz
Peak Design Leash Camera Strap Review
Переглядів 1,3 тис.5 років тому
Overview and review of Peak Design's Leash camera strap. This is my first video ever so bear with me, it can only get better from here right?
thanks a lot
How would the result chsnge between over/under exposing and then box developing, vs over/under exposing w/ pulling/pushing respectfully?
great information
Okay hear me out… I just started breaking the plastic ends off entirely. I had forgot about this until recently and thought maybe by now someone would have an easier way, but about 15 years ago for my Kodak Duaflex IV I got tired of horsing around, and just snapped them off. I’ll have to recreate this soon as I forgot how I got it all off (I recalled pliers being used) but the holes on the side clipped into the cameras film spool holder just fine and I had no issues.
Was always told to overexpose film by 1 stop. told
Nice Explanation👍
Thanks! Can I push my film while also underexposing some shots? So lets say i shoot a role of Portra 800 and i want to push it by 2 stops to 3200. can i meter for 1600 and tell the developer to develope for 3200? So that i will have the benefits of pushing while underexposing so i can get more details in the shadows?
So I was looking at a kodak data sheet because I thought about night shooting some metro stations on proimage 100 underexposed by 1 stop (so rating it at 200 ISO and get it developed at 100) and I was looking for some information on that filmstock. However, the data sheet has a table for exposure adjustments when photographing in artificil lights wich says for example „+1 stop“. Now, does that mean under- or overexpose by one stop? If +1 stop means „overexpose by one stop“, I‘d have to rate at 100 ISO box speed to get the look that I want. Happy about any answers! Thanks for the good video btw.
"Look at that beautiful bush" well said my dude
do u think this camera and olympus mju III zoom 120 are the same? Would u recommend buying Mju III zoom 120 for 200$?
Thank you for this video. I'm considering to buy Pentax 645 NII. This helps me a lot.
How do you get the pictures from camera?
A great misunderstanding being promoted by "experts" is that you can "push" process film and effectively change the ASA of the film. No, you cannot. You can underexpose your film and then extend your processing time. However the net result of that will be that you will have less detail in the shadow areas of the film - always, if you do that. Film speed is set by the manufacturer based the first apparent exposure above base fog. That is set when the film is manufactured, and BTW with black and white film the actual sensitivity of film to light is often about half the so called box speed. We use film processing times to increase, or decrease, the contrast of the negative in black and white film photography. Some films are more amenable to adjusted processing times than others. Color film contrast can be increased by increasing its exposure, to a degree. But there is a point with color film where there is color crossover due to an increased development time and accurate color balance will not be possible. Chrome film can be manipulated more on the highlight end by abbreviating the development and shadows made to carry more detail by manipulating the processing time. So actual "pushing" and "pulling" are misnomers. Laws of physics, chemistry and optics cannot be changed because we might want them to be. True enough, you can change ASA mid-roll if you want, but image quality will always suffer.
Photography and Jeeps? I’m down
Hey man thank you for the video! But I still didn‘t quite get the reason why people choose to overexpose instead of pushing the film or vice versa. If I got that right, the outcome is more or less the same, but having more contrast and grain when pushing it. Any additions to that? Would be greatful, can‘t find it anywhere :-/
Any answer to this? Noone?
What is the difference in the outcome of pushing a film and overexposing by halving the ISO?? I‘m watching like the 5th video and noone answers that :(
The effect will be the same.
Thank you so much.
This is all I ever needed. Fantastic
Start the video at 1:45 and skip the indulgence
So instead of choosing to under or over expose you just make it the labs problem instead of just going a +- a stop?
I just bought this! Did you use expired film?
You are the best!!! Thx a lot ❤
Here is my best find ever! At an estate auction I was bidding on a camera back full of gear. I was will to go to $200 (all I had). I was bidding against a lady back and forth, when she just stopped and I was at $25.00 US. I got a very good Nikon F3 plus 3 lenses. All in great condition, i figured at least $600 worth of useable gear. And YES, I'm still using it! BEST OF LUCK!
Nice, you explained the concept of under/overexposing by x "stops" very clearly. I figured it would be possible to under/overexpose with both your ISO setting and your shutter speed but I couldn't find anyone who explained how they relate to each other. You did. Thanks!
THANK YOU FIRST VIDEO I UNDERSTAND
Like this dude's vibe 👌 good video.
I think what you said at 12:20, "push your roll of 400 to 200", is wrong. Isn't it: 'push up - and pull down'? Delevoping 400 at 200 would under-expose the film, wouldn't it??? Even though shooting 400 at 200 would OVER-expose the film? I'm only just learning this stuff myself - wish somebody would clarify...
Exposure and processing have completely different functions, and I referring only to black and white film. In black and white film the amount of detail that is carried in the shadow areas is determined by exposure only. You cannot add significant detail to the shadows by increasing development by any reasonable amount. Shadow detail is determined exclusively by exposure. In development the shadow portions of the negative develop completely fairly early in the development part. Maybe in the first three or four minutes if you have a seven minutes or so development time - which is a fairly common time. (For instance when I was using Tri-X my base development time was 7 minutes at 70 degrees f.) The highlight areas will continue to build density as long as they are in contact with an active developer solution until all the exposed silver in those areas is converted from silver halide crystals to metallic silver. Once that is done the film will not gain density since all the silver has been converted - which by the way will render negatives that are bullet proof. So we control shadow density, or detail, by exposure and we control image contrast by film development times. That's why, if you look at the film data sheets it usually says "suggested times". Time and experience will show you that most black and white films are rated at a very optimistic ASA. There are some very technical reasons why these things are the way they are. The best advice is to do a little experimentation. If you are processing the film yourself just be sure to always do everything the same way. If you have the film run commercially get to know the people at your lab and always use the same lab. Consistency is the key to getting better negatives.
If you told the lab guy to develop Portra 400 at 200 - wouldn't that be under-exposing, or pulling the film? Therefore, if you delibertely tried to over-expose by setting it at 200, and told the lab guy to develop at 200, it would cancel out your adjustment - and just come out as if you shot at 400???
Not exactly. All c41 film is developed at the same time/temp no matter what the iso is. Changing the time/temp is what pulls or pushes the film. That’s why chemicals decide push/pull and settings decide over/underexposure. Shooting Portra 400 at 200 and having them dev normal would be overexposing but if you shot it at 200 and told them to pull it 1 stop then it would be pulling the film. They will leave it in the chemicals for less time than normal c41 developing
Pulling 400 1 stop would be shooting it as 200. Pulling it two stops would be like shooting with iso 100. Pushing 1 stop would be 800, 2 stops 1600
Would companies that only do 120 and 35 be able to process this as 120?
to answer your question. Yes. As it is literally the same film as 120. They take the film off the backing paper to process so the spool itself doesnt matter.
I recently thrifted my Olympus Stylus 120, but was having trouble with my viewfinder being blurry, SO WHEN YOU SAID THAT IT CAN BE ADJUSTED I SCREAMED !!!!! Ahhhhh thank youuuuu!!!!!
I’m planning to buy this for first time, so I need to buy a winder? Idk anything about these camera, can u guide me what I need to buy?
Nice collection! If you are looking to get that Canon 28 you showed at 6:10 repaired you should check out Lezots. They are located in Burlington VT and have repaired and restored several cameras for me.
HI! If i got iso 400 35mm film and set the iso to 200 on the camera, should i then read with the lightmeeter, settings for iso 200 or 400? Thanks for your clarifying some of al the unknown parts yet!
If your camera has a lightmeter and you set it to 200, it’ll read the light as if it’s 200iso film. If you’re trying to pull or overexpose then that’s what you want
Best explanation I’ve seen
Now I am realizing that this subject is for people who use fully manual film cameras and not people like me who use Canons' EOS SLR cameras. Thank you so much for explaining this.
Hey that’s not true at all! I have a few of Canons SLR film cameras and overexpose/push or pull film. You can override the DX code reading on your camera
@@gbonii5673 yes I know you can, but you were showing this for cinema not static photography.
@@SterlingSigurdsen this is used for static photography. I’ve never done cinematography
Incredible finds! I picked up an Olympus mju II zoom 170 for £10 I recently sold it for £180. 😲⚠️👍 Edit- you gad some fantastic Olympus bargains there, especially the mju for $4.99 The Canon sureshot looks really nice shame it was faulty! That Pentax IQ zoom I picked up the same model for £5 over here in the UK it's just called Pentax zoom 60x I sold it for £60 I never even used the Pentax but I believe they take really nice photos. Same thing is happening here in the UK 2nd hand shops are figuring out the value of these 'obsolete' cameras, you could pick up most SLR 35mm cameras for less than £10 I saw a Miranda one for £40 last week. Those minoltas near the end are really nice high end looking point and shoot cameras. I've added your channel, hopefully you'll connect? My latest short video shows my current retro camera collection, I flip a lot of them. 👍
Excellent breakdown and explanation once I got past the "over-exposed bush" double entendre… LOL
I know I'm late but when shooting in black and white, do the same concepts for under and overexposing apply?
I got my Pentax k100 and 42/70 35 mm lens there at a good will they thought it was a bonoculars casing and got it for 50
If you push a 400 film at 1600 you only double the amount of time ? I thought that youd have to double the time each stop. Did I miss something?
620 film is available from Freestyle Sales in California plus Shanghai GP3 is also in 620, 120 and 220
Cool! Thanks for sharing. So : pushing and pulling is actually the chemical processing of the film for a different ISO than box speed not to be mixed up with under/over exposing film! For B&W it seems clear cut: under expose and shoot a 400 at a faster speed/higher ISO. Quick question though: say I have a 400 film and I shoot 1 roll at 100 and another at 800: what is the expected impact on the image when the roll is processed say: 400 roll shot at 100, processed at 100 or 400 and 400 roll shot at 800 and processed at 400 or 800. Thank you!
YOURE BREAKING MY HEART WITH THOSE PRICES
Nice review! I’ve had the original 645 since 1995, it still runs like a champ!
neat as hell
FINALLY! Someone who can explain this!
Good
It’s good to see I’m not the only one that loves these cameras
recently purchased one as well but i’m new to film & was wondering how can i get the photos i took into my phone?
Depending on where you live but maybe just start by google searching for film developing in the area see if anything comes up. Certain drugs stores do it but quality is the main concern.
get the film to a lab and they will process and scan the film and send you the photos via dropbox or similar service
@@garvinkelly can I go to CVS and they do it?
That hair in the top right of the top-down sharpie shot just literally made me blow on my screen to get it off 🤦 Otherwise, excellent vid, going to develop some fuji pro 400H which i accidentally exposed at asa 100 (never forget to check your settings on your light meter, kids. It saves your pics) and currently doing some research to see if i actually need to pull it or just leave it at normal development since 400H seems to only get a slight bit colder when overexposed up to 3 stops.
Great explanation man, helped me so much! Thanks a lot!